many of the audio DIY needs pcbs wiring on veroboard wasts time and replacing components is very painful
An easy method exists [not too new]
EASY transfer design
1)get the FR4 copper ,plan the layout on paper its is very easy to do many times it is like the schematic if u find difficult to design
2)make sure thicker tracks for important areas
fill the design with marker .I make pads first and then join them with marker fills
3)[this makes it faster] bake (heat !) near 40w bulb
for 15 mins
EASY chemicals
============
cleaning hcl
h202 from nearby chemist
* add 30% water to the HCL
* mix like 5-7drops of h2o2
for smaller pcb
put in a plastic cap --why buy a tray :indifferent14:
*place dried out board in that , wait 4-6min ...voila we have our PCB ready -xtra highend audio gear ... 90%done
make sure area is well ventilated and acid spills have no issue
Acid is no that strong so if u touch also , was in 1-2mins
no dirty fecl3 no running for photolaserprints , wasting time to remove paper
and lastly the chemicals after usage do clean tiles well so no waste !!!!
An easy method exists [not too new]
EASY transfer design
1)get the FR4 copper ,plan the layout on paper its is very easy to do many times it is like the schematic if u find difficult to design
2)make sure thicker tracks for important areas
fill the design with marker .I make pads first and then join them with marker fills
3)[this makes it faster] bake (heat !) near 40w bulb
for 15 mins
EASY chemicals
============
cleaning hcl
h202 from nearby chemist
* add 30% water to the HCL
* mix like 5-7drops of h2o2
for smaller pcb
put in a plastic cap --why buy a tray :indifferent14:
*place dried out board in that , wait 4-6min ...voila we have our PCB ready -xtra highend audio gear ... 90%done
make sure area is well ventilated and acid spills have no issue
Acid is no that strong so if u touch also , was in 1-2mins
no dirty fecl3 no running for photolaserprints , wasting time to remove paper
and lastly the chemicals after usage do clean tiles well so no waste !!!!
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