Showing some work in progress photos of a multi-layered plinth we're building for fellow forumer Shafic. It uses beech plywood, 18 mm (3/4") thick. The topmost layer is 12 mm thick.
1) Cut layers checked for alignment:
The cutout lines are transferred with carbon paper from a printout of the template (from Lenco Heaven). We made one additional layer of 18 mm at the last minute as we had one extra unmarked layer. The marking for this layer was made from another layer which we'd just cut. Turned out to be a not so good idea as it wasn't as accurate as marking from the drawing. When all layers were stacked and carefully aligned, that layer stood out like a sore thumb. It needed a fair amount of filing with a large wood file to re-align the cutouts of all the layers. It was an avoidable task.
2) Layers 2 and 3 being glued:
Tip on spreading wood glue: In case you want to attempt this, we used Fevicol SH Synthetic Resin Adhesive. One can also use Kleiberit PUR 501 glue if available. Fevicol needs 24 hours to cure under pressure. Kleiberit can do it in 6. To apply, use a flat tong to scoop out the glue from the can and apply it evenly across one of surfaces to be glued. Then use a steel sheet used by house painters to spread putty on walls to spread the glue evenly over the surface. Use gentle, firm and long strokes of the steel plate to evenly spread the glue. Fevicol SH is white in colour. When you've had spread it evenly, you should get a translucent white layer on the surface, with the underlying plywood faintly visible. Make sure that it is spread to every nook and corner of the surface. If the layer is too thick, scrape off extra glue with the steel sheet and put it back in the can. Repeat on the other surface. Work fast. Else the glue on the first layer will dry up.
After applying glue on both surfaces, carefully align them and gently move them to align them properly according to the cutouts. Use as many clamps as you can lay your hands on to gently clamp the two layers together. DO NOT tighten the clamps much at first, only a gentle tightening will do just to hold them together securely is enough. If you start tightening while the glue is still wet, the two layers will subtly mis-align. Wait for an hour or so then tighten the clamps. Use a layer of thick folded paper between the clamp and plywood surface so that the plywood surface doesn't get scratched or dented.
3) More layers added:
4) The backside of the plinth showing cutouts for wires. The one on the left is for the tonearm wire of the primary arm (the stock Lenco L75 arm will be used) and the one on the rightmost is for the second arm (a Jelco 9 inch arm). The hole in the center is for the IEC socket.
5) Nearly all layers glued - just one last layer pending:
6) Test fit of the panels for RCA sockets and IEC socket:
7) RCA panel:
The panel is cut from a 3 mm thick black acrylic sheet. The letterings are made white by applying white nail polish
8) Panel for IEC socket:
9) Alignment of motor hole after lots of filing with rough wood file:
10) Alignment of arm hole:
Note the extra glue that has been pushed out when clamped. When dry, it is quite hard to scrape it off. It takes a sharp and sturdy chisel to pry it away. So applying just enough glue makes sense
11) Top view:
After the glue cures completely, the edges were marked and trimmed off with an industrial grade bench saw that can cut through very thick wood (5-3/4" in our case). A learning here: the edges of lowest layer of the plywood get chipped when cut with bench saw as the saw moves from top to bottom. The teeth of the bench saw is large unlike the fine saw used by table saws. To avoid this chipping and burring, add a temporary layer of a 5 mm or so thin sheet of MDF or cheap board or plywood to the bottom. Secure it to the bottom layer with small half inch nails. Use lots of nails near where it will be cut. Remove the temporary sheet after cutting. A second learning here is that one must leave at least 5 to 10 mm of margin on the edges for ease of trimming.
Once nicely trimmed, the edges were smoothened with a rotary sander.
The above are best done by a pro. At their workshop, and not your home. Lots and lots of wood dust gets generated while sanding.
Next steps: the plinth in this state has been handed over to Shafic. He is in the process of finding a good carpenter to veneer (veneer already chosen and procured) and give it - possibly - a mirror finish lacquering job.
We have also concurrently built a plinth for his Garrard 401. He may like to post some WIP pictures here.
A word about the plinth template: this is probably the third time I am using the template from LH and each time I find that the left-right dimensions are just right, but front-back dimensions on the prints are always longer than what they should be. I've tried three different print services on A1 paper and my observation is consistent. So we had sliced off a section of the printout and glued it back to get correct dimension. If you're going to use the LH template for your build, do crosscheck the dimensions of your printout.
1) Cut layers checked for alignment:
The cutout lines are transferred with carbon paper from a printout of the template (from Lenco Heaven). We made one additional layer of 18 mm at the last minute as we had one extra unmarked layer. The marking for this layer was made from another layer which we'd just cut. Turned out to be a not so good idea as it wasn't as accurate as marking from the drawing. When all layers were stacked and carefully aligned, that layer stood out like a sore thumb. It needed a fair amount of filing with a large wood file to re-align the cutouts of all the layers. It was an avoidable task.
2) Layers 2 and 3 being glued:
Tip on spreading wood glue: In case you want to attempt this, we used Fevicol SH Synthetic Resin Adhesive. One can also use Kleiberit PUR 501 glue if available. Fevicol needs 24 hours to cure under pressure. Kleiberit can do it in 6. To apply, use a flat tong to scoop out the glue from the can and apply it evenly across one of surfaces to be glued. Then use a steel sheet used by house painters to spread putty on walls to spread the glue evenly over the surface. Use gentle, firm and long strokes of the steel plate to evenly spread the glue. Fevicol SH is white in colour. When you've had spread it evenly, you should get a translucent white layer on the surface, with the underlying plywood faintly visible. Make sure that it is spread to every nook and corner of the surface. If the layer is too thick, scrape off extra glue with the steel sheet and put it back in the can. Repeat on the other surface. Work fast. Else the glue on the first layer will dry up.
After applying glue on both surfaces, carefully align them and gently move them to align them properly according to the cutouts. Use as many clamps as you can lay your hands on to gently clamp the two layers together. DO NOT tighten the clamps much at first, only a gentle tightening will do just to hold them together securely is enough. If you start tightening while the glue is still wet, the two layers will subtly mis-align. Wait for an hour or so then tighten the clamps. Use a layer of thick folded paper between the clamp and plywood surface so that the plywood surface doesn't get scratched or dented.
3) More layers added:
4) The backside of the plinth showing cutouts for wires. The one on the left is for the tonearm wire of the primary arm (the stock Lenco L75 arm will be used) and the one on the rightmost is for the second arm (a Jelco 9 inch arm). The hole in the center is for the IEC socket.
5) Nearly all layers glued - just one last layer pending:
6) Test fit of the panels for RCA sockets and IEC socket:
7) RCA panel:
The panel is cut from a 3 mm thick black acrylic sheet. The letterings are made white by applying white nail polish
8) Panel for IEC socket:
9) Alignment of motor hole after lots of filing with rough wood file:
10) Alignment of arm hole:
Note the extra glue that has been pushed out when clamped. When dry, it is quite hard to scrape it off. It takes a sharp and sturdy chisel to pry it away. So applying just enough glue makes sense
11) Top view:
After the glue cures completely, the edges were marked and trimmed off with an industrial grade bench saw that can cut through very thick wood (5-3/4" in our case). A learning here: the edges of lowest layer of the plywood get chipped when cut with bench saw as the saw moves from top to bottom. The teeth of the bench saw is large unlike the fine saw used by table saws. To avoid this chipping and burring, add a temporary layer of a 5 mm or so thin sheet of MDF or cheap board or plywood to the bottom. Secure it to the bottom layer with small half inch nails. Use lots of nails near where it will be cut. Remove the temporary sheet after cutting. A second learning here is that one must leave at least 5 to 10 mm of margin on the edges for ease of trimming.
Once nicely trimmed, the edges were smoothened with a rotary sander.
The above are best done by a pro. At their workshop, and not your home. Lots and lots of wood dust gets generated while sanding.
Next steps: the plinth in this state has been handed over to Shafic. He is in the process of finding a good carpenter to veneer (veneer already chosen and procured) and give it - possibly - a mirror finish lacquering job.
We have also concurrently built a plinth for his Garrard 401. He may like to post some WIP pictures here.
A word about the plinth template: this is probably the third time I am using the template from LH and each time I find that the left-right dimensions are just right, but front-back dimensions on the prints are always longer than what they should be. I've tried three different print services on A1 paper and my observation is consistent. So we had sliced off a section of the printout and glued it back to get correct dimension. If you're going to use the LH template for your build, do crosscheck the dimensions of your printout.
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