balavignesh002
Well-Known Member
GR Research Wharfedale Linton 85 upgrade available for 731 USD in USA.
I have been waiting for this and finally its out.
I have been waiting for this and finally its out.
I am sure if something similar had been offered locally even at 50% of the cost you may not even considered it -GR Research Wharfedale Linton 85 upgrade available for 731 USD in USA.
I have been waiting for this and finally its out.
Interesting, What caps and resistors being used? Where did you source them? Few pictures may help.Personally, I just finshed replacing all the components on the crossover except for the inductors and the big 80uF cap on the woofer.
I expect another video on describing the kits and installation walk through. He mentioned it's 3 components less than the oe list.But there is not much information describing the kit or it’s affects.
Saw this thread and have been following it cause I was interested in seeing if anyone pulled the trigger on these yet.I may not need his tube connectors as i already bought copper binding post and terminals.
He should have given some break off and some options to have partial purchase.
Good that you shared this. We may need to consider 38% import duty on the landing cost of 655 USD.For just the crossover parts and Norez you're looking at $624 plus shipping $30.50 for a total of $654.50
I am interested in this kit because, I see the change in frequency response with the new design of crossover. Factory crossover upgrade may not help much in changing frequency response and that's what I expect.I know Danny knows his stuff
Unless you have auditioned the upgraded version of this speaker and found it to be really good, wouldn't it be a bit risky (in the sense that you may not find the upgraded crossover matching your tastes) to change the crossover. In this case, it looks like the upgrade also costs a significant amount.Good that you shared this. We may need to consider 38% import duty on the landing cost of 655 USD.
I am interested in this kit because, I see the change in frequency response with the new design of crossover. Factory crossover upgrade may not help much in changing frequency response and that's what I expect.
You are bang on the point. This is also an option I am considering.. in fact it is the easiest way of achieving the end result..
Good to know that you are also considering the DSP option. If the source is digital, the "degradation" to signal quality will be negligible for a good quality DSP with good DACs. If the source signal is primarily analog, the overall sound quality may be at the mercy of the ADCs in the DSP. Again I hear that with good DSPs, this might be a non-issue.You are bang on the point. This is also an option I am considering.. in fact it is the easiest way of achieving the end result..
But I have to add one more device on the chain.
I use this kind of solution in car. It helps, But cannot correct enclosure issues and room issues.
My source is all digital.. ACDs and SACDs only.source
DSP wouldn't fix all room issues either. But neither would a crossover modification.
I cannot add any room correction by treating with damping as its my living room, don't want it to look like a studio. I can add a carpet on the floor worst case.The other option is to treat the room
Since audio is more about personal preferences, I guess you should go with a solution that you find more confident about and convenient for you. in the long run.My source is all digital.. ACDs and SACDs only.
Denon 2500NE CDP and AMP integrates well. A good Home Audio DSP may cost more than 730 USD.
I almost decided on changing the crossover components with same architecture, then components alone costs 550 Euro + shipping from UK and import duties. with all the effort and cost i am going to carry forward the architecture implications of the xover.
Danny is giving an complete package Crossover + Wire & terminals + Damping this is attractive as he is not leaving anything behind. the damping solution alone can bring good control of bass i think.
Some how I feel the only neglected or compromised part of Lintons is the xover. look at the lay out, no gaps and poor quality materials. Cabinet material and stands are top notch. Speakers are of good quality Kevlar cone and rigid basket.
I cannot add any room correction by treating with damping as its my living room, don't want it to look like a studio. I can add a carpet on the floor worst case.
I agree with this. when you upgrade a 1000 $ speaker ( hypothetical number ), there is no point in spending an amount that is more than half its retail price to land up with something that is now sounding very different from the original voicing. A couple of hundred dollars spend in the right places to make it a more solid performer while retaining its original voicing would be more appropriate.I know Danny knows his stuff. But, if you're going to redo the crossover /slopes/order/etc you might as well design your own speaker because at that point the Linton is no longer a Linton. Moreover, I think Danny is a bit harsh on the factory Linton parts quality issue in his review. My response is: "As compared to what? The OEM parts quality is absolutely comparable to any other OEM speaker in the Lintons price range. Consider this, if you mod the speaker and improve the crossover components then you're getting more of what's there, there. Like wiping away morning frost from your window everything gets clearer right? But, if you change the original design of the crossover its like reading a book by Tolstoy, ripping out half the pages then writing your own babel stuffing it in and saying, "Now that's better." I mean really... This is madness.
Can you expand on the parts you used for your Linton upgrade? Experiences, crossover removal, soldering, resistors etc?Yes, it looks like it will change the sound signature as he talks about bringing the highs and mids up to the same level as the bass. But there is not much information describing the kit or it’s affects. $750 is quite expensive for this speaker, given its retail price.
Personally, I just finshed replacing all the components on the crossover except for the inductors and the big 80uF cap on the woofer. The results are favorable so far, ranging from dramatic in the higher frequency’s to more nuanced as we go down to the lower frequency’s. It cost about $350 for me.
Looking forward to hear peoples impressions of the GR upgrade.
Yes, sorry. I replaced the 6.8uF and .68uF tweeters caps with Jantzen superior Z. The remaining parallel cap on the tweeter and all other caps in the mid circuit were replaced with Jantzen standard Z. All resistors except the one in the woofer circuit were replaced with Mundorf supreme. In the woofer circuit there is a large 80uF electrolytic and little 6uF poly cap in paralle. Here I placed the the original 6.8uF MkP cap from the tweeter position and the 80uF electrolytic.Can you expand on the parts you used for your Linton upgrade? Experiences, crossover removal, soldering, resistors etc?
I was looking at doing the same... How much room on the board do you have to work with when adding the larger caps? Did you stack the larger caps on top with longer leads? If you have time or want to I would love to see it... :?Yes, sorry. I replaced the 6.8uF and .68uF tweeters caps with Jantzen superior Z. The remaining parallel cap on the tweeter and all other caps in the mid circuit were replaced with Jantzen standard Z. All resistors except the one in the woofer circuit were replaced with Mundorf supreme. In the woofer circuit there is a large 80uF electrolytic and little 6uF poly cap in paralle. Here I placed the the original 6.8uF MkP cap from the tweeter position and the 80uF electrolytic.
Eventually, I will replace this With one 18uF and 68uF crosscap for a total of 86uF. I have also purchased a set of Cornell DubIilier 940-CDE .015uF 3kv caps for the shunts on tweeter series caps. This will probably be my last and final step, but I am not in a big hurry as I am quite satisfied at this point.
The highs are clearer, and slightly more extended with a better sense of air about them, and the mids are better defined and less smeared. Imaging seems to be improved slightly with a more holographic quality to it. These differences are not drastic though. The original sound signature is retained but the sound more well defined and less diffuse.
I used a cheap 25w soldering iron along with desoldering bulb, some card solder, and the above parts. If I could do it again I would probably just stick with standard z on the tweeter series caps as the superior is huge and expensive, and then just add a nice shunt. Otherwise I was pleased the speakers still worked when I was done, LOL, the sound was improved just enough, and it was a fun project.
I really wanted to replace the cheap inductors but not knowing the exact DCR of the stock inductors stopped me. Also, adding bigger, nicer inductors would require a larger point to point crossover board. Let me see if I can post a pic later on.
Some did use the std. Z and found the highs to be shouty, this was despite the Miflex kpcu-01 cap as shunt. Superior Z is indeed the superior choice! I have read, many used them.If I could do it again I would probably just stick with standard z on the tweeter series caps as the superior is huge and expensive, and then just add a nice shunt.
Not much room. Everything is nice and snug. Yes some components are raised up or stacked to make room. The 6.8uF Superior Z is hanging off the board but the leads are nice and stiff. If your careful and methodical it can be done. Take a picture of the board before removing the components and move from one side to the other removing each piece to be replaced. The sand cast resistors were really stuck on there and require a sharp prying tool.I was looking at doing the same... How much room on the board do you have to work with when adding the larger caps? Did you stack the larger caps on top with longer leads? If you have time or want to I would love to see it... :?
Thanks, good to hear. Glad I went this way then, despite the cap hanging off the board. Maybe I will add the Cornell shunts at a later time but for now just enjoying.Some did use the std. Z and found the highs to be shouty, this was despite the Miflex kpcu-01 cap as shunt. Superior Z is indeed the superior choice! I have read, many used them.
@balavignesh002 Danny provides the frequencies where he has measured the dips and peaks . Before employing a hardware DSP, use a media player like JRIver or Foobar to EQ (use parametric) at software level by taking Danny's measurement as a base to hear how the sound changes.Wouldn't it be easier to apply EQ to the source material via a good quality DSP