Am not sure why this is turning out to be such a controversial topic. The entire idea is quite simple - the amp power section is capable of driving a load (speaker) of a certain type - with certain specs. Obviously its not that if one deviates from it slightly, the amp is going to blow or the speaker. In fact the speaker blowing is highly unlikely, the amp going into overheating or thermal cutoff is more likely. This ALSO DEPENDS on volume that you are playing the system at - why? Since the overall power delivery has to be much higher to the speaker. So at what point does one say that so and so speaker is not recommended - its hard to say, but one has to draw the line somewhere. After all if an AVR is rated at 6 to 16 ohms, all its saying to me is that is where the amp is designed at and rated to be run at. If you run it at 4 ohms, will it run, sure but there is no certainity about how quickly it can heat up or how well it can drive it. If any of you have noticed, with cheap systems available in roadside shops, as you turn up the volume, sometimes the amp switches off and comes on when the volume is turned on - thats exactly whats happening here - thermal cutoff - the load is too hard to drive at that power. It does not matter if its a branded speaker or not, apart from the impedance curve, the phase complexity matters as well. This information in general is not very easy to get.
The simplest advice to the OP is this - if you have the AVR and need to buy the speakers, take it with you to the store and try it out, if you already have both the AVR and the speakers, nothing much to do
dont think too much unless you have or hear an obvious problem
cheers
The simplest advice to the OP is this - if you have the AVR and need to buy the speakers, take it with you to the store and try it out, if you already have both the AVR and the speakers, nothing much to do

cheers