2 Way Bookshelf (Vifa, Peerless) - Build

[bijinmb]

Hi Folks,

Just finished a bookshelf with Peerless and Vifa drivers for one of my friend according to his taste!

Cabinet volume is (Approx): 38 Liters
Type: Vented
Frequency range: 45Hz - 40KHz
Sensitivity (Approx) : 90 dB/1W/1M
Finish: Wood Laminate
Power: 100 Watts

The drivers I have used are:

Tweeter: Tymphany (Formerly Vifa) XT25SC90-04 Dual Ring Radiator
Woofer: Peerless - 830657-6.5" SDS

The cabinet is braced internally to reduce the resonance and the inside wall is damped with Polyfill.

This can be used as a main speaker for stereo music listening or can be used as front (L/R) speakers in a home theatre setup.

Overall this is sounding very nice and is pretty happy with the results.


I Just thought of sharing few images of the build process below.

 

[jmascreen]

Its a treat to watch and learn from your DIY projects

 

[keith_correa]

Looks very nice.

At what frequency are the drivers crossed?

 

[krell]

nice build .your photography skills are awesome.

 

[ShutterX]

Awesome stuff. How do you know how much glasswool to place inside. Isn't its purpose to 'increase' Internal volume? I guess that's how those small bookshelves put out so much bass.

 

[bijinmb]

Looks very nice.

At what frequency are the drivers crossed?

Dear Keith, Its crossed at 1.8 Khz.

Awesome stuff. How do you know how much glasswool to place inside. Isn't its purpose to 'increase' Internal volume? I guess that's how those small bookshelves put out so much bass.

It's kinda experimental. The more we add, the more it deadens low frequency. So can work out on that formula until we get the bass we desire/like.

When we add lot of stuffing, the speaker see's the cabinet as a bigger one (on volume).

 

[pksnathan]

Looks awesome.Does not look like a DIY project.Looks like a manufactured one.Congratulations.

Thanking you,

pksnathan

 

[mpw]

bijin,

Its looking very very good.

do comment on the sound and also on the associated electronics this will be set up with.

what is the weight of each cabinet ?

somehow - i like these things heavy

regards

 

[quad]

Beautiful work, as always. Is the crossover custom designed for
the drivers? Did you take any freq response/impedance plots etc?

 

[Anil kumar]

It's a beauty, great finsh Bijin, love your DIY work
Inside it looks very similar to ML-TL which i made few years back for a friend, sounded very good

Here is the link: Small Thor ML-TL

 

[rajesh srinivas]

hi bijin

congrats for your quality build,the box has come out very nice,
few of my queries.

1.Is the box in rectangle shape i see the depth at the bottom is more than the top,

2. in picture 2 , the cutout to flushmount/recess the drivers on the baffle is the best way to do,more like a horn shape to 100% reduce diffraction effects,usually people end up though flushmounting with sharp edges..

3.You have also used the same method for the bracing panel so that the air movement inside moves very smoothly.

3.Like to know how you did it,even the baffle round edges.

thanks
r/s.

 

[bijinmb]

bijin,

Its looking very very good.

do comment on the sound and also on the associated electronics this will be set up with.

what is the weight of each cabinet ?

somehow - i like these things heavy

The unit has good off axis response mainly because of the patented dual ring radiator tweeter.

Could get much time to audition it since the guy has swiftly grabbed it to his home.

Cabinet weights around 18KG/box.

Beautiful work, as always. Is the crossover custom designed for the drivers? Did you take any freq response/impedance plots etc?

Yes the xover is custom build but didn't spend too much time on tweaking since its tight on schedule.

1. Is the box in rectangle shape i see the depth at the bottom is more than the top,

2. in picture 2 , the cutout to flushmount/recess the drivers on the baffle is the best way to do,more like a horn shape to 100% reduce diffraction effects,usually people end up though flushmounting with sharp edges..

3.You have also used the same method for the bracing panel so that the air movement inside moves very smoothly.

3.Like to know how you did it,even the baffle round edges.

Dear r/s.

PFB my inline comments for your queries.

1. You are correct. The box is slightly slanting toward its top.
2. Yes, one should give radius to the other side of the baffle cut out to avoid turbulence. And this is one of the best practices in the cabinet build generally.
3. Yes, its done for the very same reason mentioned above.
4. Its done with router. A 13mm or 15mm radius router bit can bring that impression to the edges. What you need to do is after taking the cuts you can run the routing with the mentioned bit once again.

If doing through CNC it is possible but will not be economical since you need to flip the MDF over to other side also which causes alignment issues and other hassles, though you can do one side without problem since its already clamped. But i recommend make it by hand which is more economic and fast (for this job).

 

[mpw]

Cabinet weights around 18KG/box.

Thats a lot of weight !!!

are the drivers very heavy ?

maybe you would have used a lot of bracing ??

 

[keith_correa]

The exterior grade MDF is heavy by itself. I find it heavier than "regular' MDF.

 

[hydrovac]

Bijin,

Top notch build quality...

Not may be of great significance, but some points which interests me are:

830657-6.5" SDS woofer is 8? and XT25SC90-04 Tweeter is 4?, how did you manage the Xover, and sensitivity difference of 3.5db?
I see a three element crossover... is it 6db for woofer and 12db for tweeter?

Any reason for placing the binding post plate on the upper portion...
also, where does the Xover sits in the enclosure?

Cheers!

 

[bijinmb]

Thats a lot of weight !!!

are the drivers very heavy ?

maybe you would have used a lot of bracing ??

The driver's doesn't have much weight. Yeah its the bracing and all which has added mass.

+1 to the keith_correa's point too.

Now a days HDF is also coming in the market easily which is some 300-350 INR more than MDF's cost and around 10KG more mass for a 8' x 4' sheet.

Bijin,

Top notch build quality...

Not may be of great significance, but some points which interests me are:

830657-6.5" SDS woofer is 8? and XT25SC90-04 Tweeter is 4?, how did you manage the Xover, and sensitivity difference of 3.5db?
I see a three element crossover... is it 6db for woofer and 12db for tweeter?

Any reason for placing the binding post plate on the upper portion...
also, where does the Xover sits in the enclosure?

Dear Hydrovac,

I put a 4 ohms resistor in series with the tweeter. and I intentionally didn't attenuate the HF because this guy likes HF very much and it was one of his design parameter to get it high according to his taste.

Yes the xover is 1st order for Low's and 2nd order for the high's.

Binding post plates is placed on the upper portion to save wire at-least by 1.5 ft.

I actually put a provision to bolt the xover PCB's inside the cabinet, but after sealing the front baffle things became too difficult to fasten it. Then dropped that plan and used cable ties and mounted on the bracing. That has come up very strong as well.

 

[captrajesh]

Moderator's note

@bijinmb, I has just merged your two back to back posts. We would appreciate if you make use of "Multi Quote"

for quoting multiple posts in quick succession instead of quoting each post separately.

 

[gcr]

superb finish. looks amazing..

 

[rajesh srinivas]

The unit has good off axis response mainly because of the patented dual ring radiator tweeter.

Could get much time to audition it since the guy has swiftly grabbed it to his home.

Cabinet weights around 18KG/box.



Yes the xover is custom build but didn't spend too much time on tweaking since its tight on schedule.



Dear r/s.

PFB my inline comments for your queries.

1. You are correct. The box is slightly slanting toward its top.
2. Yes, one should give radius to the other side of the baffle cut out to avoid turbulence. And this is one of the best practices in the cabinet build generally.
3. Yes, its done for the very same reason mentioned above.
4. Its done with router. A 13mm or 15mm radius router bit can bring that impression to the edges. What you need to do is after taking the cuts you can run the routing with the mentioned bit once again.

If doing through CNC it is possible but will not be economical since you need to flip the MDF over to other side also which causes alignment issues and other hassles, though you can do one side without problem since its already clamped. But i recommend make it by hand which is more economic and fast (for this job).

hi bijin ,

Thanks for your information that will add more to my knowledge for making the speaker flange & recess in a perfect way,since i am in the process of making huge towers,center,surround boxes.

And for baffle edge roundovers what bit size you have used,and also the finish of the baffle i presume you have used the metalic paint.

r/s

 

[bijinmb]

hi bijin ,

Thanks for your information that will add more to my knowledge for making the speaker flange & recess in a perfect way,since i am in the process of making huge towers,center,surround boxes.

And for baffle edge roundovers what bit size you have used,and also the finish of the baffle i presume you have used the metalic paint.

r/s

Hi R/s,

PFB my inline comments for your queries.

And for baffle edge roundovers what bit size you have used, - It depends as per your requirement, but generally i find 13mm - 15mm radius bit a good choice.

and also the finish of the baffle i presume you have used the metalic paint. - Its not metallic paint, its satin black. Satin black can give you a fine texture which really is suited for audio application.