I feel the pop up in 3D movies are very little but the depth is great. Do others see the same.
Did you tried 3D L/R invert ?
I'm using sainsonic glasses rechargeable/button battery with H5380.
3D is great with this budget projector.
I feel the pop up in 3D movies are very little but the depth is great. Do others see the same.
Did you tried 3D L/R invert ?
I'm using sainsonic glasses rechargeable/button battery with H5380.
3D is great with this budget projector.
Yes I did L/R invert, only when the picture is back with the subs in the front is watchable, is this the correct one.Did you tried 3D L/R invert ?
I'm using sainsonic glasses rechargeable/button battery with H5380.
3D is great with this budget projector.
Yes Spirovious , demo clips do give good pops. While watching Avatar 3D , Dawn of the planet of the apes 3D. I didn't got any pop outs.It depends on movie itself.Demo clips come right on my face.![]()
Starting with a disclaimer - This post is by no means an attempt (professional or novice) to declare the projector the de-facto choice for any of you. This is just a humble attempt to present my impressions of the pj with pure intention to assist anyone of you with any data points needed
Contrast is not something to write home about. The colors are natural again for the movie mode as well. Sharpness is good (for me).
As for Rainbow effect - yes, it is present. Does it bother me or others in the family - Absolutely no.
I do notice a bit of flicker when playing 1080p content but can attribute that to my source as of now - laptop running vlc player with no video h/w acceleration. Will test the content with WDTV player and update again.
Yes Spirovious , demo clips do give good pops. While watching Avatar 3D , Dawn of the planet of the apes 3D. I didn't got any pop outs.
No, Spirovious I don't have Despicable me but avatar and others are 50GB Blu-ray pirated discs.Demo clips pops out more than movies.
Was the avatar disc or rip? Did you check Despicable me? the last scenes ( after the movie) has good pop ups.
Digging up old thread for 3D clips.
http://www.hifivision.com/television/45002-3d-clips-testing-3d-your-display.html
Thanks a lot. i really appreciate your help.
First time posting here. Apologies if this is the wrong place to ask for this!
I've had this projector for 1 year, 3 months and 3 weeks in other words, 3 months and 3 weeks out of warranty. So of course something breaks now. It worked fine the night before last, and I didn't use it last night. Tonight, I try to turn it on, and the fan spins up, it beeps twice, and the Power LED flashes blue. This cycle repeats for a few minutes, then it beeps three times, the fan spins down permanently, and the Lamp LED flashes red.
The manual seems to say that the first pattern (flashing blue Power LED) indicates the lamp is retrying, and the second cycle (flashing red Lamp LED) indicates "color Wheel fail." I contacted Acer support and since unplugging the power cord and holding the power button down to "discharge static electricity" didn't work, they want $250 + tax + shipping to repair it.
Anyone have any ideas of what the problem may be, or if I can do anything to fix this? Or know any projector repair places in the Bay area?
Sorry to hear.:sad: Are you in California or anywhere in the US? How many hours do you have on the bulb? If I were you and had no option for a free repair I would get a 5380 on ebay and have an option to get one of those Square trade warranties seperately. I contacted the seller and he said that would be an option. I got mine from the seller and so far after 7 months going strong: Acer H5380BD 3D DLP Home Theater Projector Native 720P 1280x720 3000 ANSI Lumens | eBay
Good luck!
senseabove If you are handy or ask the seller if there is a step by step guide. Here is the color wheel for the 5370: Fit for Acer H5370BD DLP Projector Replacement Color Wheel | eBay
Took it to another repair shop that was a bit more convenient to get to and that offered to check it out for free. They said it looks like the Color Wheel is shot, and it would cost close to $300 for them to order and replace it.
So... anyone have any idea how difficult a replacement this would be to do myself? Does it involve any soldering? Or would it be just a matter of getting to the wheel, unscrewing some things, and plugging in the new one? I'm relatively handyI've done low-level stuff like hard drive and RAM replacement and some slightly precision stuff like setting up turntables, but I've never done any soldering.