Custom made, Solid core 4 channel RCA Interconnects using Belden cables and WBT terminals

balavignesh002

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I always wanted to try a solid core interconnects in my car ICE. At the same time don't want to lose too much on the flexibility of the Stranded cables what I use currently.

As I use 4 way Active I need 4 pairs of Analog interconnects between Pre and power Amp, i want to reduce the cable run inside the car.

So decided on Belden 74010NH which I can use as 4 channel interconnects as there 8 conductors twisted in to 4 pairs.

Since it's car environment I was looking for plastic or nylon terminals which shall have minimal interference in a congested environment, so decided on WBT-110Cu.

IMG_20240630_155823.jpg
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This cable is braided and fire retard. 10mm in thickness or diameter. I ut 4 Meter length
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Removed the outer cover so that I can make splitting of channels
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The conductors are PE Insulated and shielded with aluminium
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Removed the braiding
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Used speaker cable boot to secure the inner cable in 2 parts
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Used a transparent 5mm heat shrink on each split cable pair before inserting bootIMG_20240630_164658.jpg

Added outer sleeve
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IMG_20240630_180539.jpgAdded one more heat shrink to distinguish left and right. The Connector is 10mm dia on the cable side, so added a sleeve to act like a strain relief.IMG_20240701_192323.jpg
Tinned the tip with Mundrof 9% solder
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Added a 10 mm hear shrink to secure the sleeve before terminating the connector.
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Thought of considering 1.5 feet for hookup on amplifier side termination, so cut the sleeve accordingly.IMG_20240708_112612.jpgdual later of 4 mm and 5 mm heat shrinks used to protect the inner cables pairs.
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Added sleeves on the far end to accomodate 10 mm mouth of WBT terminalsIMG_20240708_174608.jpg
This is very important while terminating solid copper wires, never used blade or any stripper to strip of the insulation. I recomend to use lighter to melt the insulator and remove it by hand. This way can avoid knife marks on conductor, later solid conductor may break post usage.IMG_20240708_175959.jpgIMG_20240708_180131.jpg
Tinned the conductors end with Mundrof supreme (9% silver & 1% gold) solder. Secured it with heat shrinks.
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Hi Balavignesh, you well made the cable, congratulations. Is the Speaker cable Boot heat shrink type? or just you inserted over the cable? Why did you fold the boot in the two ends? If it's not a heat shrink type, then will it stay firmly in the place? Thank you.
 
Thought of considering 1.5 feet for hookup on amplifier side termination, so cut the sleeve accordingly.View attachment 85442dual later of 4 mm and 5 mm heat shrinks used to protect the inner cables pairs.
View attachment 85447
View attachment 85445
Added sleeves on the far end to accomodate 10 mm mouth of WBT terminalsView attachment 85449
This is very important while terminating solid copper wires, never used blade or any stripper to strip of the insulation. I recomend to use lighter to melt the insulator and remove it by hand. This way can avoid knife marks on conductor, later solid conductor may break post usage.View attachment 85450View attachment 85451
Tinned the conductors end with Mundrof supreme (9% silver & 1% gold) solder. Secured it with heat shrinks.
View attachment 85452
There is Mundorf soldering lead?? End to end quality control. Bravo!!!👏
 
Hi Balavignesh, you well made the cable, congratulations. Is the Speaker cable Boot heat shrink type? or just you inserted over the cable? Why did you fold the boot in the two ends? If it's not a heat shrink type, then will it stay firmly in the place? Thank you.
Hi Sunder, the boot is nylon material, not a heat shrink. I just inserted over the Cable.

I need to terminate a RCA connecter which is 10mm mouth, I have used 5 rounds of heat shrink under it to have a tight fit.

By the way it's not a speaker cable, Its RCA Interconnects.
 
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This is very important while terminating solid copper wires, never used blade or any stripper to strip of the insulation. I recomend to use lighter to melt the insulator and remove it by hand. This way can avoid knife marks on conductor,
You did it carefully well thought out , took lot of time with lot of patience to do it.
 
Tinned the tip of conductors with Mundorf Msolder SUPREME as usual and I recomend to bend the tips to 90 Degrees using a nose pleyer, so that it can accommodated in the WBT terminals soldering holeIMG_20240721_075043.jpg

Inserting the terminal, the mouth should be tightly holding the cable to have best strain relief. Other wise stress will to till the solder.

Not an easy task to do. Slotted them perfectly in to the hole and ready to be soldered.
IMG_20240721_084810.jpg
 
Tinned the tip of conductors with Mundorf Msolder SUPREME as usual and I recomend to bend the tips to 90 Degrees using a nose pleyer, so that it can accommodated in the WBT terminals soldering holeView attachment 85609

Inserting the terminal, the mouth should be tightly holding the cable to have best strain relief. Other wise stress will to till the solder.

Not an easy task to do. Slotted them perfectly in to the hole and ready to be soldered.
View attachment 85610
Since this is a very long 4 meters cable, you could make it as a Balanced interconnect cable with XLR connector for home audio stereo system.
 
Since this is a very long 4 meters cable, you could make it as a Balanced interconnect cable with XLR connector for home audio stereo system.
I don't have a system with balanced input or output in my home Audio electronics.

The use case of these cables are in my cars. I use Clarion HXD2 SE as Head Unit (preamp + DSP) with 8 channel preout, which needs to be connected to amplifiers installed in boot.
 
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