DIY Floorstanders with peerless drivers - 3 way

thenvk

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Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
62
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Location
Hyderabad
Hello,

I have started my new project about a month back. My requirement was pure bass.Contacted couple of forum members, and others and finally started with the below 3 way.

Items I am still waiting for are cross overs ordered from ebay.com
HiFi Audio Frequency Divider 160W 3 Way Crossover Filters for Multi Speakers | eBay

Current status: Both towers are done with silicon sealing and Luppam. One today and the other a week back. I am using one tower for now with drivers in it.

let the pics do talking.






Todays work:










Tomorrow, I will do the sand paper work on these and then apply primer. Once the Xovers are here, I would finish the work.

P.S:Thanks to VK (My friend) and Cranky for suggestions and all the help.
 
Last edited:
Hello,

I have started my new project about a month back. My requirement was pure bass.Contacted couple of forum members, and others and finally started with the below 3 way.

Items I am still waiting for are cross overs ordered from ebay.com
HiFi Audio Frequency Divider 160W 3 Way Crossover Filters for Multi Speakers | eBay

Current status: Both towers are done with silicon sealing and Luppam. One today and the other a week back. I am using one tower for now with drivers in it.

let the pics do talking.






Todays work:










Tomorrow, I will do the sand paper work on these and then apply primer. Once the Xovers are here, I would finish the work.

P.S:Thanks to VK (My friend) and Cranky for suggestions and all the help.

If you study for 15 days and design your own crossover, you will do a better job than buying a xo off the shelf. buying drivers and readymade xo is like a lottery. 1 in a million chance that you will hit the jackpot.
 
Thank you for the comments:
If you study for 15 days and design your own crossover, you will do a better job than buying a xo off the shelf. buying drivers and readymade xo is like a lottery. 1 in a million chance that you will hit the jackpot.

I don't wanted to risk with inductors, hence went for it. Finding components is very difficult in india.



Congrats thenvk! Which design is this?

Its a normal 3 way design, we did not follow anything in specific

+1. Also, how did you determine the distance between the drivers?
.

We just did it blindly, did not follow any much rules as my requirement was deep bass
 
for future reference, keep the mid and tweeter as close as possible. the bass woofers should be close to the mid or close to the bottom. you can offset the tweeters by a little and have a mirror image configuration. port placement doesnt really matter as long as its bass reflex and not mltl.

Did you calculate the volume of the cab or is that also just guesswork/size preference.

you could use it as it is for the time being, then redesign the crossover. the difference a good xo will make is night and day difference in sq.
 
Current status: Both towers are done with silicon sealing and Luppam.

We just did it blindly, did not follow any much rules as my requirement was deep bass

Excellent work. Ideally your drivers should be placed as close to each other as physically possible.

I too am build a couple of pairs of floor standing speakers (along with a center and a few small rear speakers). you can see the pictures here
Pictures of Selah designed Tempesta Extreme and RC4 (no subwoofer)
 
I am not a speaker designer but I have few suggestions. Totally salute your effort, no doubt about it. But I do have reservations about the outcome.

I think you should seriously think about the crossover design as suggested by doors and others. That crossover is a generic one. Cross-over is a big part of speaker design and how it performs, how drivers interact with each other etc. One cannot expect a decent performance by just throwing bunch of drivers + electronic components together. You need to make those work together.

Also, think if you can line up the drivers as close as possible, at least the mid-range and tweeter.

About Mid-range, its better to keep it in its own, sealed chamber. Right now, the mid-range is sharing the enclosure with woofer. These woofers will keep moving back and forth, and will cause pressure variations in the cabinet. It will affect the mid-range completely and can even damage it. Build a dedicated, sealed chamber for it so its isolated. This is very important. All the vocals come from mid-range. The woofers are going to mess it up completely.

You said your focus was on bass. Somehow I think you would have been better off by building a sub and bookshelves. 3 way designs are nice but those make it bit complicated. In your diy design, the bass could be good but the mid-range and hi-range may be suffering.

Again, your effort is very commendable. Just stretch it bit more and get the speakers right. There may be a learning curve, but you will be quite satisfied with the outcome.
 
for future reference, keep the mid and tweeter as close as possible. the bass woofers should be close to the mid or close to the bottom. you can offset the tweeters by a little and have a mirror image configuration. port placement doesnt really matter as long as its bass reflex and not mltl.

Did you calculate the volume of the cab or is that also just guesswork/size preference.

you could use it as it is for the time being, then redesign the crossover. the difference a good xo will make is night and day difference in sq.

We did the box volume as per calculation, which is 62 litres. the actual volume that we used is about 66L.

We added the synthetic cotton from pillow as well...

Cross overs are very difficult to get in india.. hence went for default one.. lets see..If I can do one in future.
 
I am not a speaker designer but I have few suggestions. Totally salute your effort, no doubt about it. But I do have reservations about the outcome.

I think you should seriously think about the crossover design as suggested by doors and others. That crossover is a generic one. Cross-over is a big part of speaker design and how it performs, how drivers interact with each other etc. One cannot expect a decent performance by just throwing bunch of drivers + electronic components together. You need to make those work together.

Also, think if you can line up the drivers as close as possible, at least the mid-range and tweeter.

About Mid-range, its better to keep it in its own, sealed chamber. Right now, the mid-range is sharing the enclosure with woofer. These woofers will keep moving back and forth, and will cause pressure variations in the cabinet. It will affect the mid-range completely and can even damage it. Build a dedicated, sealed chamber for it so its isolated. This is very important. All the vocals come from mid-range. The woofers are going to mess it up completely.

You said your focus was on bass. Somehow I think you would have been better off by building a sub and bookshelves. 3 way designs are nice but those make it bit complicated. In your diy design, the bass could be good but the mid-range and hi-range may be suffering.

Again, your effort is very commendable. Just stretch it bit more and get the speakers right. There may be a learning curve, but you will be quite satisfied with the outcome.

The box has two chambers, one for two woofers and the other one for tweeter and mid driver. So they are not sharing it with woofer. As of now, I am quiet happy with the output, as I am not a serious audiophile and did this only for thumping bass, which I am already getting.

I am yet to receive this xover in my hands . I have used the old bolton xover which a friend has given me in one box. The other box, I have connected only the woofers.

I already have a DIY sub, I am actually in process of building the 2.1 amp, so that I can connect these three together.

I started this project with intention of 2 way and the sub, but went for 3 way, as I can use it for mids in future, if I want to.
 
The box has two chambers, one for two woofers and the other one for tweeter and mid driver. So they are not sharing it with woofer. As of now, I am quiet happy with the output, as I am not a serious audiophile and did this only for thumping bass, which I am already getting.

I am yet to receive this xover in my hands . I have used the old bolton xover which a friend has given me in one box. The other box, I have connected only the woofers.

I already have a DIY sub, I am actually in process of building the 2.1 amp, so that I can connect these three together.

I started this project with intention of 2 way and the sub, but went for 3 way, as I can use it for mids in future, if I want to.

thenvk,

Good Show!

What are your Crossover frequencies ? Is SB25NL you used a Subwoofer or a Woofer ?

Jayant
 
We did the box volume as per calculation, which is 62 litres. the actual volume that we used is about 66L.
Cross overs are very difficult to get in india.. hence went for default one.. lets see..If I can do one in future.

8 inch ones are SM20NL
mid drivers are SK0130
and Tweeters are TL25SN

Thenvk,

It is great you had the courage to build these speakers and I hope dearly that what I say next does not discourage you from building more speakers (God knows we need more DIYers like you).

a. Most speakers do not adhere to the publishes T/S specs. It is imperitive that as you go along you somehow find access to LEAP/LMS, MLSSA, Clio, Calsod etc.. and the ability to at least measure Fs, Qts, and Vas accuarately (lets leave B/L, Cms, etc.. out for now). Ported (bass reflex) speakers are more sesitive to correct T/S specs than say sealed boxes. You will find that ou might have to tune the speaker by ear.

b. Of the drivers you have used I am familiar with the SKO 130 (it is SKO and not SK0) which I used with a KO 10DT in the early 90s. If I remember right I crossover of at about 12db/octave at 3.5khz. The 130 has a pretty smooth roll off post 5khz.

c. You should look at getting some simple crossover software. The most VFM one I know of is LspCAD. LspCAD allows you to input FRD data as well. Doo look at the FRD consortium for the list of drivers for which they have detail data.

That's it. Keep Building and learning.

BTW I am not that internet friendly so dont log in too often. PM me if you need more info.
 
Thenvk,

It is great you had the courage to build these speakers and I hope dearly that what I say next does not discourage you from building more speakers (God knows we need more DIYers like you).

a. Most speakers do not adhere to the publishes T/S specs. It is imperitive that as you go along you somehow find access to LEAP/LMS, MLSSA, Clio, Calsod etc.. and the ability to at least measure Fs, Qts, and Vas accuarately (lets leave B/L, Cms, etc.. out for now). Ported (bass reflex) speakers are more sesitive to correct T/S specs than say sealed boxes. You will find that ou might have to tune the speaker by ear.

b. Of the drivers you have used I am familiar with the SKO 130 (it is SKO and not SK0) which I used with a KO 10DT in the early 90s. If I remember right I crossover of at about 12db/octave at 3.5khz. The 130 has a pretty smooth roll off post 5khz.

c. You should look at getting some simple crossover software. The most VFM one I know of is LspCAD. LspCAD allows you to input FRD data as well. Doo look at the FRD consortium for the list of drivers for which they have detail data.

That's it. Keep Building and learning.

BTW I am not that internet friendly so dont log in too often. PM me if you need more info.
Hey, thank you for your inputs.. I will PM you if I have queries. There is nothing to get discouraged as this is something which keeps a person happy that it was built by himself.

BTW, I am very happy with the current output from speaker.. So not much bothered about the crossovers as I do not need flat and accurate sound as you guys like.
 
Finally my set up is complete... And I am loving the sound.

Cross overs:
xovers1.jpg


Tower 1
tower2.jpg



Tower 2
tower1e.jpg


Also my recent purchase- -Astonia amp. and It is driving my towers with ease. 9'0 clock position is more than enough to fill my room.

astonia1.jpg


Apologies for the crappy picture quality.
 
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