DIY - TNT Flexi stand in one day!
- Thread starter madbullram
- Start date
^^
will work well without collar
actaully that is what ram should try
get a bushing with OD tight fit with glass and ID tight fit with od of rod ( ideallyID threaded- that would be super if possible to procure)
height of bush less that glass thickness
get washer for tightening of appropriate matl not rubber and proper thickness depending on material
i once used 2mm anticarbon
will work well without collar
actaully that is what ram should try
get a bushing with OD tight fit with glass and ID tight fit with od of rod ( ideallyID threaded- that would be super if possible to procure)
height of bush less that glass thickness
get washer for tightening of appropriate matl not rubber and proper thickness depending on material
i once used 2mm anticarbon
trittya
Active Member
Hey Magma
Firstly let me comment on the strength/warp factor of plexiglass. I agree that it hardly bends/flexes with a 60 kg load but do consider that your man is not going to stand there for long but your eqpt surely will be there for periods long enough to induce discernible flex. Also, i do not completely agree with venkatcr that a reasonably thick acrylic sheet will snap easily by tightening. For that one has to be very stupid or very strong, maybe both. They use this stuff to make dance floors in nightclubs for people to hop n jump upon.
Magma, I do agree with the factors that you have listed but then being far from any kind of GuruI daresay both my racks were done by a seasoned machinist with minimum machining tolerance gaps. Its not zero but almost as good or else the rods wont enter the holes. Ather reason for sway is the use of spikes as this drastically reduces the surface area of ground contact to a single POINT. Hence SS floorpads become mandatory. Even better if you place the four floorpads on a thick and rigid rug(not the fluffy sort), then mount your rack on that. That way, not only can you pull the rug back n forth easily on a polished/tiled floor (to reach the rear of the rack to change connections) but it protects your precious floor from stains/marks over prolonged periods. With load on your rack, the pads get embedded into the rug creating a slot for themselves forever so make sure you dont try this with the wife's favourite persian carpet. You ll see what I mean when you see the snaps of my friends setup n Guwahati. For my rack, which is about one half bigger, I am using a 3/4" plywood piece as a base(the floorpads are placed on the board) to move the rack for making/ changing connections the rear. More later
Firstly let me comment on the strength/warp factor of plexiglass. I agree that it hardly bends/flexes with a 60 kg load but do consider that your man is not going to stand there for long but your eqpt surely will be there for periods long enough to induce discernible flex. Also, i do not completely agree with venkatcr that a reasonably thick acrylic sheet will snap easily by tightening. For that one has to be very stupid or very strong, maybe both. They use this stuff to make dance floors in nightclubs for people to hop n jump upon.
Magma, I do agree with the factors that you have listed but then being far from any kind of GuruI daresay both my racks were done by a seasoned machinist with minimum machining tolerance gaps. Its not zero but almost as good or else the rods wont enter the holes. Ather reason for sway is the use of spikes as this drastically reduces the surface area of ground contact to a single POINT. Hence SS floorpads become mandatory. Even better if you place the four floorpads on a thick and rigid rug(not the fluffy sort), then mount your rack on that. That way, not only can you pull the rug back n forth easily on a polished/tiled floor (to reach the rear of the rack to change connections) but it protects your precious floor from stains/marks over prolonged periods. With load on your rack, the pads get embedded into the rug creating a slot for themselves forever so make sure you dont try this with the wife's favourite persian carpet. You ll see what I mean when you see the snaps of my friends setup n Guwahati. For my rack, which is about one half bigger, I am using a 3/4" plywood piece as a base(the floorpads are placed on the board) to move the rack for making/ changing connections the rear. More later
madbullram
Well-Known Member
Very very good information flowing, great going guys, please continue very educating.
trittya
Active Member
Personally, I feel thick rawhide leather washers work best but i eliminated the use of washers for the shelves in both the racks(except one top shelf in my rack on which currently sits a dell 24" monitor posing as a makeshift TV, thats how i know the flex factor bit as the monitor weighs only about 6 kgs). Wait for me to commence a new thread.
trittaya
i use a variety of things for the floor
check my website
Sound Foundations - Homepage
also understand good machinists may provide proper tolerences, they will never predict rack behaviour
that will come by experience
also a man standing on it provides more or less point load at the centre; equipment feet spread out in four corner reduces flex even more
i have some plexi holding a power amp for just over 2 yrs with no problems
i use a variety of things for the floor
check my website
Sound Foundations - Homepage
also understand good machinists may provide proper tolerences, they will never predict rack behaviour
that will come by experience
also a man standing on it provides more or less point load at the centre; equipment feet spread out in four corner reduces flex even more
i have some plexi holding a power amp for just over 2 yrs with no problems
I think as I don't like wires jumbling at back I would have shifted single steel rod at the back i.e. two rods at front and at the back single rod. Would make it hollow so wires can be hidden inside. Also if you move one rod at the back glass corners alongside that single rod would be less vulnerable as they would be facing the wall. Would that be good idea ???
madbullram
Well-Known Member
Hiten: I tried, its very difficult given that the AMP has some 10 input connection from various source, the only option could be for power wires may be.
Even with a wire management snake cover it is difficult.
Even with a wire management snake cover it is difficult.
Hi Trittya
Instead of ss protectors under the spikes use ebony wood. Harmonic development is much better. I prefer Asian ebony to African ebony. African ebony will give you more stage depth but there will be a little suck out in the mid bass.
Metal floor protectors under the spikes will add a resonance. To avoid that use Herbies Fat Dots under the metal floor protectors
Instead of ss protectors under the spikes use ebony wood. Harmonic development is much better. I prefer Asian ebony to African ebony. African ebony will give you more stage depth but there will be a little suck out in the mid bass.
Metal floor protectors under the spikes will add a resonance. To avoid that use Herbies Fat Dots under the metal floor protectors
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What I meant was that Acrylic also resonates as does glass. All material resonate at various frequencies. To reduce Acrylic resonance, you have make it with a polymer or Kevlar or carbon and that will be very very expensive. Even wood resonates, but it is much lower on comparison to glass and acrylic.
Cheers
trittya
Active Member
Another option is perforations in the shelves, which is not feasible with glass. Also, if one goes in for perforated shelves, one has to increase the thickness as perforations will decrease the structural rigidity of the shelf. The upside is that it increases ventilation from under the component(s).
For fun and experimenting resonating frequencies can be measured easily by tuning forks and some mathematical equation OR a high quality mic and a sound editing software. I think measuring with tuning fork for can be fun. 
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trittya
Active Member
Either way, the trial-and-error approach cant be done away with, huh ? Optimisation is the keyword.
I think we are talking about different kinds of acrylic. The kind used in dance floors are not the kind you generally get in the market. As I said, it all depends on the polymer and kind of compounds used.
I have seen 10-15 mm acrylic sheets used at home cracking under pressure. I have also seen such acrylics getting tarred with use and loosing their transparency. Many such sheets are popularly used in bathrooms nowadays in place of glass.
Cheers
trittya
Active Member
You do get them but you have to look hard. I was in Guwahati when I found a shop called Lathe' fibres, selling all kinds of acrylic. I presume Delhi and other metros would be better off but again, I reiterate that nothing beats marine grade ply, (even for speaker cabinets) plus the tooling expertise required for acrylic would push the costs up. Should you still want to go for acrylic, I suggest you try the tinted, scratch resistant variety, its available in dark as well as light tints in grey/brown. Hope this helps
Whats so great about marine grade ply? Do you plan to float your gear in the ocean? Like Ganpati Visarjan?
Whats so great about marine grade ply? Do you plan to float your gear in the ocean? Like Ganpati Visarjan?
ROFTLMAO, Gobble you are incorrigible.:lol:
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