Thanks a ton, Capt. I have shot off a PM to linuxguru.
Group Buy: Mauro Penasa MyRef Rev C kit
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Thanks a ton, Capt. I have shot off a PM to linuxguru.
Audiodoc
Well-Known Member
I bought the smaller one from ebay for 3K now it may be higher due to the weak rupee. The one is from 8 audio is slightly costlier around 4K.
My pleasure! you are welcome.
Pleasure is all mine Mbhangui. Now that you have the complete kit, bash on regardless.:thumbsup:
sachu888
Well-Known Member
Can anyone comment on International Rectifier's class D amp https://ec.irf.com/v6/en/US/adirect...domSendTo=byID&domProductQueryName=IRAUDAMP7S wattage can be 300W/PC price $199.It is also available here at cheaper price L20DX2 IRS2092 top Class D Audio Power Amplifier board 250W*2 8R IRAUDAMP7S | eBay
We can get PCB locally and use better parts than Ebay kit.
Regards,
Sachin
We can get PCB locally and use better parts than Ebay kit.
Regards,
Sachin
The L20 is another of the LJM designs. They are threads for them in
the Class-D forum on Diyaudio.
There's also a thru-hole PCB posted by someone from India.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/196346-irs2092-through-hole-working-design.html
the Class-D forum on Diyaudio.
There's also a thru-hole PCB posted by someone from India.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/196346-irs2092-through-hole-working-design.html
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Audiodoc
Well-Known Member
The C13 is the input DC blocking capacitor. It prevents DC from entering the amplifier and destroying your speakers. However if your preamplifier or source has a output DC blocking capacitor or you are sure there is no DC in the source output you can put a wire bridge instead of C13 which will sound better. however I recommend against the same for the sake of your speakers. Post some pics too.
Understood and thanks. I have become rusty. Doing something like this after a gap of 24 years. Have to clean the board with isopropyl alcohol to remove the excess flux. Soldering the Large Caps (10,000 micro farad) was bit difficult as my 10watts iron used to run out of steam with the molten solder solidifying immediately on contact. Next time I will use a 35 watts iron on points having large surface area.
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@Mbhangui, great work there. BTW, I can see dry solder and / or insufficient flux at some places. I hope I'm wrong but you may take a closer look.
Yes. It is where the large (10000 mf) caps are soldered. I will have to buy a higher wattage soldering iron. My current soldering iron is 10 watts and the solder solidifies the moment I try to solder over these 4 contact points.
gans
New Member
Sir, can you help me to build this. What would be the cost?
Today, found myself some time for finishing the MyRev Build. Initially I blew a 1A fuse in the IEC power socket. Looks like the initial rush of current > 1A. I have connected a 3A fuse for the time being.
At the moment there is no volume control. Will add that later after testing which hopefully will happen sometime this week. The AC voltage on both the transformer secondaries read 28 V. So I am not sure if my cheap Chinese multimeter is the culprit. What voltage can be safely applied to the Mauro Penasa Kit?
At the moment there is no volume control. Will add that later after testing which hopefully will happen sometime this week. The AC voltage on both the transformer secondaries read 28 V. So I am not sure if my cheap Chinese multimeter is the culprit. What voltage can be safely applied to the Mauro Penasa Kit?
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Nice build Manavendra! Congratulations.Today, found myself some time for finishing the MyRev Build. Initially I blew a 1A fuse in the IEC power socket. Looks like the initial rush of current > 1A. I have connected a 3A fuse for the time being.
At the moment there is no volume control. Will add that later after testing which hopefully will happen sometime this week. The AC voltage on both the transformer secondaries read 28 V. So I am not sure if my cheap Chinese multimeter is the culprit. What voltage can be safely applied to the Mauro Penasa Kit?
Please use slow blow 1A fuse. Please see marking on transformer if that is 22-0. Also in my house I am getting 255-260V as mains supply on three phase by difference of 1-2 volts. Voltage controller is tripping.
Thanks Om. The transformer is 0-22v for both the secondaries. I am suspecting my multimeter. Tomorrow I will see what my 18-0-18 transformer shows on the same multimeter.
About the slow blow fuse, I didn't know that such fuse existed. I have enhanced my knowledge today
Audiodoc
Well-Known Member
You should check your mains input voltage. If your transformers primary winding is wound for 220V and the AC from your house's socket is at 250V then the secondary voltage in a 22-0-22V transformer can easily go beyond 28V post rectification and filtering. If your speakers are 8 ohm ones nothing to worry. I have 4-6 ohm ones and use a step down transformer. If you have a higher than normal mains supply and 4-6 ohm speakers it is preferable/ essential to use a 18-0-18 transformer so the output voltage stays below 28-0-28V.
The chips don't get very hot on 8 ohm loads so they can be mounted on the cabinet walls however the protruding bolts may ruin the aesthetics. My cab has dimensions of 30 x 17 x 5.4 cm with ventilation slits in the top and bottom.
I know recently came into contact with a dealer in china who sells all sorts of enclosures. They are good quality ones from 1 kg to 15 kg. If DIY geeks are willing we may get together for a group buy and save on shipping etc.
The site in in Chinese however one can easily understand by checking pictures and internal dimensions.
what will be cost for a standard monoblock cab?
Audiodoc
Well-Known Member
The one I have used is for around 4000 bucks. Imported from Hong Kong. I have used a single transformer. You will find slightly cheaper ones if you wand a smaller cab for mono blocks.
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