Home theatre wiring through false ceiling

addagalla

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Hi,

I'm a novice in audio wiring. I don't have a home theatre purchased yet but would like to plan for the wiring through false ceiling now and purchase a home theatre after a few months. Can someone suggest what exactly is required to be done now and what can be done later? If possible, I'd like to make provision for wiring now so that actual wiring can be done later on after I decide on what exactly to buy. Currently the provision can be made for a typical 5.1 system.

Thanks
 
get the pipes laid out in such a way that cables can be sent through them later. No need to put wires right now.
You can push a stiff wire through the pipe from remote end, tie speaker/ projector cables on it when it comes out of the end closer to your equipment, and then pull back. Keep ample space to push through hdmi cables.
 
remember to run the pipes separately for spk cables. running your spkr cable in a pipe containing any other wires like ekectrical or telephone cable is a strict No-No.

also keep provision for separate power supply for a sub woofer. this will be required if you chose to go for a higher end HT. most good quality subs are active type and need a separate power supply.

for placement of speakers, do not forget to visit DTS and Dolby websites.
 
When installing closed pipe/duct/trunking for future installation of cables, one trick is to run several lengths of string, and tie them off at both ends.

You can use each length to pull through one, or several, cables, as and when.

Colour coding, or number of knots, or some such end-matching is optional, but makes the cable pulling a one-person job.
 
To add to above, carefully think about what all cables you will need to pass through the ceiling. If you have plans to run HDMI, ensure you have a 2-3 inch plastic water pipe running from your AV rack to where your Projector would be mounted.

Also please search as there are several threads discussing this where you'll get info.
 
Once the pipes are laid and the false ceiling is closed, it becomes very difficult to draw wires at a later date. The reason for this are the bends where wires tend to get stuck. This is even more critical if you are bunching more than one cable in one conduit pipe.

Assuming you are installing a 5.1 with projector, and if you want things to be easy, here is a list of conduits that you need to lay:

1. Five 3/4" inch conduits for speakers cables.
2. One 2 inch pipe to carry HDMI, three CAT5 and one coaxial cable for video.
3. One separate 1/2 inch pipe to carry power to the projector with earthing. This should be at least 6 inches away from the 2 inch pipe.
4. Two 3/4" pipes to carry two coaxial cables for a Point 2 sub woofer placement.
5. Conduits for power to the system (five points) and two conduits to carry power to the subwoofer.

Remember the bends should be smooth. As said by George, each conduit must carry a GI wire that can be used later to draw the cables. Do not use strings as they will snap when you are drawing the cables.

Cheers
 
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Feel free to substitute something stronger than string ...but I do mean a decent string, not some thin thread that will break. You should not be able to snap it with a hard tug.

What's "GI" wire? Is it like the curtain wire (a thin, tightly coiled spring spiral about 2mm in diameter)? That is the stuff pros use when they have to push through a conduit. It is very flexible, but not flexible enough to kink or bunch up. Right-angle bends are not absolutely impossible, but they are a challenge!
 
What's "GI" wire? Is it like the curtain wire (a thin, tightly coiled spring spiral about 2mm in diameter)? That is the stuff pros use when they have to push through a conduit. It is very flexible, but not flexible enough to kink or bunch up. Right-angle bends are not absolutely impossible, but they are a challenge!

GI stands for Galvanised Iron. It is basically a thin wire that is very cheap and available in large rolls. You use the spring to to go through a conduit with all it's twist and turns. Once the spring is through, you tie a GI wire on the other end and pull the spring out completely. You leave the GI wire in the conduit by knotting at both ends. When you are ready to insert a cable, you tape the cable to the GI wire, twist the wire on the cable, and then pull it through. This is actually a two man job. One pushes and the other pulls. Many times it is just safer to coat a bit of oil on the cable so that it slips through easily.

Cheers
 
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GI stands for Galvanised Iron.
Thanks.

We were out looking for something like that, that would not rust, for binding wire mesh outside. We ended up at a fishing-boat supply shop (Thiruvanmiyur) buying fine stainless-steel wire. That might be good for this application too.
 
decide on ur seating options and speaker positions and leave the opening accordingly, gi wires r good for pre wiring. seperate piping for Power and speaker cable .
gd luck .. cheers
 
Assuming you are installing a 5.1 with projector, and if you want things to be easy, here is a list of conduits that you need to lay:

1. Five 3/4" inch conduits for speakers cables.
2. One 2 inch pipe to carry HDMI, three CAT5 and one coaxial cable for video.
3. One separate 1/2 inch pipe to carry power to the projector with earthing. This should be at least 6 inches away from the 2 inch pipe.
4. Two 3/4" pipes to carry two coaxial cables for a Point 2 sub woofer placement.
5. Conduits for power to the system (five points) and two conduits to carry power to the subwoofer.

Remember the bends should be smooth. As said by George, each conduit must carry a GI wire that can be used later to draw the cables. Do not use strings as they will snap when you are drawing the cables.

Cheers

Thanks a ton Venkat and others for very useful information.

If I am not planning for a projector and a second sub-woofer, is #1 above all I need? Also, do I just need 2 conduits instead of 5 if I can make connections to the other 3 (woofer, 2 front speakers) to go behind the wooden panelling on the TV wall?

Also, should the conduits be run through the false ceiling and then all the way to the bottom of the wall behind? I guess that depends on if I'd buy floor standing speakers or wall mounted ones, right? If I don't know yet, what would you suggest?

Thanks again.
 
Thanks a ton Venkat and others for very useful information.

If I am not planning for a projector and a second sub-woofer, is #1 above all I need? Also, do I just need 2 conduits instead of 5 if I can make connections to the other 3 (woofer, 2 front speakers) to go behind the wooden panelling on the TV wall?

Also, should the conduits be run through the false ceiling and then all the way to the bottom of the wall behind? I guess that depends on if I'd buy floor standing speakers or wall mounted ones, right? If I don't know yet, what would you suggest?

Thanks again.


Important thing is make sure the wire are coming out from one or atmost 2 outlets. Keep the power one separate. and all A/V one together as a rule of thumb.

And at the end of it all you may want to put down some decent wall plates (monoprice is an excellent choice for this) so the finish looks professional.

Combo Wall Plates
 
If I am not planning for a projector and a second sub-woofer, is #1 above all I need? Also, do I just need 2 conduits instead of 5 if I can make connections to the other 3 (woofer, 2 front speakers) to go behind the wooden panelling on the TV wall?

Sure. If you do not plan for a projector, you can cut the HDMI, CAT5 and coaxial cables.

Also, should the conduits be run through the false ceiling and then all the way to the bottom of the wall behind? I guess that depends on if I'd buy floor standing speakers or wall mounted ones, right? If I don't know yet, what would you suggest?

Yes, the height to which the speaker cables depends on the speakers you decide upon. Thus planning upon wiring without some decision on the speakers will be pre-mature.

Cheers
 
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Stepping back a bit, if you have even a faint idea of what you want, pull as much wire as you can right now with some extras too. Wire is CHEAP and would save you much trouble later even through conduits. Conduits are great for future proofing, but should rather be for the 'completely-unknown' than 'I-know-but-its-few-months-out'.
 
Stepping back a bit, if you have even a faint idea of what you want, pull as much wire as you can right now with some extras too. Wire is CHEAP and would save you much trouble later even through conduits. Conduits are great for future proofing, but should rather be for the 'completely-unknown' than 'I-know-but-its-few-months-out'.

I agree. I'll most probably buy a HTIB after doing some basic research. Assuming this, could you suggest what wires I should buy now? Specs like type, gauge, even brand, etc. I had a feeling that the wires that come with the HTIB would be the best to go with rest of the equipment, but if that doesn't matter and if I can buy something good right away, please suggest.

Also, is a normal HTIB (in the range of say 40 to 50K) considered good enough? I know this is subjective, but all I'm looking for is some crisp & clear sound with deep bass and something that goes well with both movies & music.

Thanks
 
Also, is a normal HTIB (in the range of say 40 to 50K) considered good enough? I know this is subjective, but all I'm looking for is some crisp & clear sound with deep bass and something that goes well with both movies & music.

We have said this many time before, but the best judge are your own ears. Go listen to and HTiB, and then listen to a regular AVR with speakers.

Cheers
 
A beautiful, well-constructed speaker with class-leading soundstage, imaging and bass that is fast, deep, and precise.
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