How to buy a vintage turntable
- Thread starter reubensm
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I am using a felt mat on top of a rubber mat on my 1200. Just had to raise the height of the tone-arm a few millimetres. That is alright though, isn't it? There is no upper limit for the height adjustment, as long as the tone arm sits parallel to the record on a naked eye visual check, correct?
There are no discernible issues I have noticed. Am I ok using two mats? Ta!
reubensm
Well-Known Member
Perfect! The key is to have the arm sit parallel to the surface of the record. That's how its done. The Technics S-arm is a legend and is brilliantly engineered. Its also one of the most rugged arms around as is so simple to calibrate that my 7 year old son knows how to do it. Having said that, it has this knack of maintaining pin-point accuracy even when put through murderous use.
reubensm
Well-Known Member
Today's tip: Circuit from the cartridge to your amplifier.
Look under the headshell, the cartridge is wired to the headshell connector using headshell leads. The end connected to the headshell connecter is usually soldered but the end connected to the cart must never be soldered. Slip-on headshell connectors need to be used here. Most of the internal wiring of the tonearm is never visible but if you have access to the inside of the turntable, check the tonearm wires coming out of the base of the TT (if it does not have a socket). If these thin wires are brittle, then you'd have to change them very soon. Also check if the turntable has its original interconnects and ground wire. Its is common for people to mod these, however if mods are not done tastefully, there can be cosmetic and performance implications.
Note: I have taken a tonearm with the standard detachable headshell as an example as these are the more common ones. The wiring will vary from headshell type to headshell type. Ensure that the cart is attached to the headshell in a standard manner. If the cart is glued or heat-fixed, don't pay for the cart and factor in the cost of a replacement headshell. If the headshell wires are soldered to the cart's pins, don't pay for the cart.
Look under the headshell, the cartridge is wired to the headshell connector using headshell leads. The end connected to the headshell connecter is usually soldered but the end connected to the cart must never be soldered. Slip-on headshell connectors need to be used here. Most of the internal wiring of the tonearm is never visible but if you have access to the inside of the turntable, check the tonearm wires coming out of the base of the TT (if it does not have a socket). If these thin wires are brittle, then you'd have to change them very soon. Also check if the turntable has its original interconnects and ground wire. Its is common for people to mod these, however if mods are not done tastefully, there can be cosmetic and performance implications.
Note: I have taken a tonearm with the standard detachable headshell as an example as these are the more common ones. The wiring will vary from headshell type to headshell type. Ensure that the cart is attached to the headshell in a standard manner. If the cart is glued or heat-fixed, don't pay for the cart and factor in the cost of a replacement headshell. If the headshell wires are soldered to the cart's pins, don't pay for the cart.
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reubensm
Well-Known Member
I received some queries on what precautions to take before giving a turntable for servicing or repair. This is a very important question so thought I'll answer it here:
Disclaimer: This post is not intended to hurt the sentiments of honest technicians who perform their work out of the love and interest in turntables. The intention is to keep the owner informed of possibilities in the generic service environment
In the modern context, anyone with a little interest in audio will know that Turntables are back with a bang and with lots of bucks. Enquire the service charges before turning the table in. Service charges and cost of spares are usually separate but charged together.
You have to prepare your turntable before giving it for service. Surprised?? Yes, you have to. Anything related to turntables from a spares perspective is expensive. From olden times, all audio technicians have the habit of maintaining a junk box which is nothing but a large box with loads of old parts and spare parts. This is usually built up over a period of time with parts salvaged or discarded from electronics equipment. A junk box came in handy while servicing as one did not have to procure spares (and could actually charge a nominal fee for them too). Now, there are some clever dudes who take this concept to the limit. The actually proactively add to their junk box. What they do is that if they find a component which can actually bring them a profit later on, they would replace it with a substitute, and add the good part to their junk box. This means, they could take out stuff from you turntable and stock it to be resold later. They can replace the good component with another salvaged component which may require you to go back to them later for another round of service. Maintaining the junk box inventory becomes even more vital if spares cannot be easily found. It is because of technicians operating out of junk boxes, that we find so many vintage turntables with assortment of non-standard parts.
Some valuable junk box inventory pieces are, (1) idler wheels, (2) cartridges and styli, (3) semi conductors, (4) bearings, (5) Transformers, (6) Motors, (7) Belts, (8) Pulleys, screws, bushes and (9) Inbuilt Phonostages. I have known cases where even the platter or the entire tone arm assembly was replaced (on the pretext of it being faulty)
Take high resolution photos of all the externals and internals, note down all the serial numbers. Make a secret marking or identify some marking which you can relate to. Check for these once you get your table back. You will need proof for confronting the technician so photographic evidence is a must. Take high resolution photos of the circuit boards. Ensure that that same semiconductors are retained unless replaced with your permission. An Indian replacement IC will be no match, performance wise, for the original Japanese IC for example.
Take these precautions even if you know the technician. You will never end up at the wrong end.
Disclaimer: This post is not intended to hurt the sentiments of honest technicians who perform their work out of the love and interest in turntables. The intention is to keep the owner informed of possibilities in the generic service environment
In the modern context, anyone with a little interest in audio will know that Turntables are back with a bang and with lots of bucks. Enquire the service charges before turning the table in. Service charges and cost of spares are usually separate but charged together.
You have to prepare your turntable before giving it for service. Surprised?? Yes, you have to. Anything related to turntables from a spares perspective is expensive. From olden times, all audio technicians have the habit of maintaining a junk box which is nothing but a large box with loads of old parts and spare parts. This is usually built up over a period of time with parts salvaged or discarded from electronics equipment. A junk box came in handy while servicing as one did not have to procure spares (and could actually charge a nominal fee for them too). Now, there are some clever dudes who take this concept to the limit. The actually proactively add to their junk box. What they do is that if they find a component which can actually bring them a profit later on, they would replace it with a substitute, and add the good part to their junk box. This means, they could take out stuff from you turntable and stock it to be resold later. They can replace the good component with another salvaged component which may require you to go back to them later for another round of service. Maintaining the junk box inventory becomes even more vital if spares cannot be easily found. It is because of technicians operating out of junk boxes, that we find so many vintage turntables with assortment of non-standard parts.
Some valuable junk box inventory pieces are, (1) idler wheels, (2) cartridges and styli, (3) semi conductors, (4) bearings, (5) Transformers, (6) Motors, (7) Belts, (8) Pulleys, screws, bushes and (9) Inbuilt Phonostages. I have known cases where even the platter or the entire tone arm assembly was replaced (on the pretext of it being faulty)
Take high resolution photos of all the externals and internals, note down all the serial numbers. Make a secret marking or identify some marking which you can relate to. Check for these once you get your table back. You will need proof for confronting the technician so photographic evidence is a must. Take high resolution photos of the circuit boards. Ensure that that same semiconductors are retained unless replaced with your permission. An Indian replacement IC will be no match, performance wise, for the original Japanese IC for example.
Take these precautions even if you know the technician. You will never end up at the wrong end.
sachu888
Well-Known Member
Most people feel tonearm is the only weak link in Techincs 1200 series.
Regards,
Sachin
reubensm
Well-Known Member
that may be true when compared to the SMEs and Jelcos of the world but my word, that tonearm can track almost anything thrown at it, and just want guys like me crave for
sachu888
Well-Known Member
that may be true when compared to the SMEs and Jelcos of the world but my word, that tonearm can track almost anything thrown at it, and just want guys like me crave for
I only shared,what most people think about Technics tonearm and replace it with Rega or similar. I have used Technics TT in past and had absolutely no problem with tracking.
Regards
Sachin
reubensm
Well-Known Member
Today's Tip:
Ask the seller for the model number and make. Do some googling. Now, don't just look for photographs and reviews, look for write ups on the issues faced by this model. You'll be surprised at what you find. There are some models out there that constantly face issues and a lot has been talked about these on different forums. For example, you will find that the tonearm lift for Technics manual direct drive turntables is very delicate and tends to malfunction (or break). You will find a lot written about speed issues faced by JVC direct drives, the poor build quality of the Garrards launched in the mid-to-late 1970s, etc etc. There are some models, even from the big turntable names, that were not very successful or were plagued with problems. Not a bad idea, trying to find out if, the turntable that you plan to buy, features in this category.
Ask the seller for the model number and make. Do some googling. Now, don't just look for photographs and reviews, look for write ups on the issues faced by this model. You'll be surprised at what you find. There are some models out there that constantly face issues and a lot has been talked about these on different forums. For example, you will find that the tonearm lift for Technics manual direct drive turntables is very delicate and tends to malfunction (or break). You will find a lot written about speed issues faced by JVC direct drives, the poor build quality of the Garrards launched in the mid-to-late 1970s, etc etc. There are some models, even from the big turntable names, that were not very successful or were plagued with problems. Not a bad idea, trying to find out if, the turntable that you plan to buy, features in this category.
reubensm
Well-Known Member
Today's tip:
The dust cover is important. Many turntables are sold with broken dust covers. A cracked or broken dustcover indicates that the turntable was probably stored away for a long time and something heavy was kept on it. As irrelevant as they may seem, never write off the need for a dust cover. Dust cover hinges are also very important. When removing a dustcover from the turntable (if its a free one or the hinges are broken), one will always tend to knock the tonearm assembly with it, causing the alignment to change. Hence if you have a hinged dustcover, this can be avoided. Dustcover hinges are expensive to buy online sometimes costing upwards of $30.
The dust cover is important. Many turntables are sold with broken dust covers. A cracked or broken dustcover indicates that the turntable was probably stored away for a long time and something heavy was kept on it. As irrelevant as they may seem, never write off the need for a dust cover. Dust cover hinges are also very important. When removing a dustcover from the turntable (if its a free one or the hinges are broken), one will always tend to knock the tonearm assembly with it, causing the alignment to change. Hence if you have a hinged dustcover, this can be avoided. Dustcover hinges are expensive to buy online sometimes costing upwards of $30.
reubensm
Well-Known Member
Earlier today, I was speaking with Mr. Kuruvila when he mentioned an important point. Thought I'll share it with all.
Many of vintage turntables may have gone into storage primarily because the stylus got damaged and the owner did not know where to get a replacement. The internet became popular in India in the early 2000s prior to which access to international purchases did not exist unless one had a relative abroad who could purchase the spare part. Hence many of the vintage turntables that come out of storage are not likely to have good stylii or carts. The same is applicable for belt-drive turntables as well. If the belt broke, it is not possible to get replacement belts in India in those times. So when you buy a vintage belt drive TT, check the belt carefully. For all you know if may be patched (should be ok if its replaced with an OEM spare).
Many of vintage turntables may have gone into storage primarily because the stylus got damaged and the owner did not know where to get a replacement. The internet became popular in India in the early 2000s prior to which access to international purchases did not exist unless one had a relative abroad who could purchase the spare part. Hence many of the vintage turntables that come out of storage are not likely to have good stylii or carts. The same is applicable for belt-drive turntables as well. If the belt broke, it is not possible to get replacement belts in India in those times. So when you buy a vintage belt drive TT, check the belt carefully. For all you know if may be patched (should be ok if its replaced with an OEM spare).
For those living in Mumbai and not too intimidated to venture into the crowded Lamington Road electronics market, it is fairly easy and cheap to rebuild a turntable belt, provided one has a sample at hand (even a snapped belt will do). I have two belts built and both work very well. Price Rs 120 each. The same chap rebuilds idler wheels too (provided the metal wheel is intact).
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