Making baby steps into Hi-fi
- Thread starter hydra
- Start date
hydra,
the TV is the only odd man out..
and further to that rationalize the electronics and the chain to retain just what you need.
mpw
Indeed, the TV is a bit of the sore thumb that sticks out. Unfortunately, that's something I can't move away -- I watch a lot of movies too, and this is also the movie setup, albeit a 2-ch one. I don't have any other usable room I can move the TV to, or I'd have moved the TV and used my old PSB Image B6 and NAD326 for sound there. My bedroom (the only other room in the house other than my gym and the kitchen) is really small, and I use it only to sleep in. The gym is sacred ground: No electronics there (not that there's enough space anyway).
But I do need to do something about the TV. Wall-mounting (something I don't really like) it, or getting a 1 ft deep console table to put it on, seems to be the two current options. I can get a console table made such that the amps can slide under it, and that would save as much space as wall-mounting.
Right now, the only extra thing in the chain is the CDP, which I use as transport. I can do without it, but I do have quite a few CDs, and sometimes it's just easier to spin a CD than turn the Music PC and TV (as a monitor) on.
Prem, you have hit the bull's eye! Two days back, I swapped my current interconnects with a pair of Nanotech #207, terminated with Furutech, that an FM was very kind enough to lend me.
Everything improved, but particularly, the bass was a revelation! It's not that the bass level/volume has gone up, it's that the it's-there-yet-not-there sense of bass has improved substantially. I really shouldn't be singling out the bass response here, as the difference in the midrange and highs is also significant, but I was a bit concerned about the bass earlier, and so that change stood out for me. Trumpets bite like a bulldog, without making me feel uncomfortable at all. Vocals simply flow, and there's a lot more air (= a sense of space) in general! I can't just describe most of the change as I really don't have the words to describe it, but you were right on the money when you said earlier that Nanotech works well with Rethm gear!
I'm using the Rethm speaker cables, so I'm good there too.
The bass modules are at 12'oclock now (50% load). I can turn them up, but when I turn them up, uh, paradoxically, I feel there's too much bass for my taste (particularly midbass). I'm contradicting myself on the bass here, but I just can't explain why. I'll try using a rug under the speakers too.
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Great Hydra. Keep increasing the vol till it cuts the mid range. At one point it will eat into the mids. That's your point. You need to be a notch below that. Initially it might appear the bass dominates. But don't worry. Let it run for a couple of days. It will settle down. Try using a simple vocal to get the bass vol right. Don't use a bass heavy track. Concentrate only on the mids. Not the bass
I replaced my old RCA interconnects with a pair of Nanotech Music Strada #207, terminated with Furutech RCA connectors. I bought both from the FM who was very kind to have lent them to me for a long audition a few weeks back.
I'd like to thank FM jls001 for getting them into (very pretty) nylon braided sleeves, and for resoldering the cables for me. He was also kind enough to shorten and resolder a pair of Mogami 2549 Neglex interconnects, with Neutrik Rean Connectors. The cables look and feel like they just came off a factory line!
I'm also very grateful to another FM who prefers to remain unnamed (you know who you are, thanks bud!) for arranging all the logistics, taking the cables to jls001, and sending them back to me.
The brotherhood on the forum amazes me, with people whom I've never met, people who are bound to me just by the love for music, going out of the way IRL to help me with enjoying music better!
To further amplify my thoughts in post #422 above, the Nanotech ICs work very well between the Rethm amp and speakers, almost as if they were voiced for each other. Thanks again to Prem, for suggesting that I try Nanotech.
The Mogami 2549 come very, very close to the Nanotech #207 in speed and dynamics. They lose out to the Nanotechs by just a small margin in terms of richness of tone and midrange body, and by a fairly large margin in terms of bass detail, and in terms of bringing out very subtle details across the sound spectrum. Considering the difference in money outlay between the two, the Mogami are a great value-for-money proposition!
I'd like to thank FM jls001 for getting them into (very pretty) nylon braided sleeves, and for resoldering the cables for me. He was also kind enough to shorten and resolder a pair of Mogami 2549 Neglex interconnects, with Neutrik Rean Connectors. The cables look and feel like they just came off a factory line!
I'm also very grateful to another FM who prefers to remain unnamed (you know who you are, thanks bud!) for arranging all the logistics, taking the cables to jls001, and sending them back to me.
The brotherhood on the forum amazes me, with people whom I've never met, people who are bound to me just by the love for music, going out of the way IRL to help me with enjoying music better!
To further amplify my thoughts in post #422 above, the Nanotech ICs work very well between the Rethm amp and speakers, almost as if they were voiced for each other. Thanks again to Prem, for suggesting that I try Nanotech.
The Mogami 2549 come very, very close to the Nanotech #207 in speed and dynamics. They lose out to the Nanotechs by just a small margin in terms of richness of tone and midrange body, and by a fairly large margin in terms of bass detail, and in terms of bringing out very subtle details across the sound spectrum. Considering the difference in money outlay between the two, the Mogami are a great value-for-money proposition!
Heard the Trishnas at Absolute phase the other day with a couple of other Folks including an FM. in spite of it not being setup well as we just played it as is, there is something about the sound..the coherency and the intimacy it has especially with vocals. if setup well it could sound really Amazing !
Congrats on the choice..i can visualize how you must be enjoying this !
Congrats on the choice..i can visualize how you must be enjoying this !
My iFi iLink Micro came in two days back. I had some social commitments on saturday night, and an early rise and day-long trek in the hills on sunday. So I was able to open the box, set it up, and settle down to some music just yesterday night.
The box comes with:
1) An iLink.
2) 4 paste-on silicone feet.
3) A short USB cable.
4) A short lockable BNC - BNC cable.
5) A pair of RCA plugs that can be slotted onto the BNC plugs to convert the cable to a digital coaxial cable.
6) A short optical cable.
7) A very short pictorial quick-start guide, and warranty card.
The iLink itself is a very compact and well built device, with a full aluminium body. One end has a single USB - B socket. The other end has two digital coaxial outs, one is a high level digital out, and a normal level digital out (meant for use with 'older' chips like Wolfson). Next to the digital outputs, there's a toggle switch that turns the JET (jitter elimination tech) on and off. Next to the JET switch is a digital optical (TOSLINK) out.
The top of the device has three LEDs that indicate connection/power status, JET on/off and playback status. The device draws power from the PC via USB.
Setting it up was simple enough. I downloaded the driver from the iFi Audio website. It uses the same driver as the AMR DP777. The installation required the iLink to be plugged in, and took just 3 minutes or so. I then made the iFi iLink the default sound playback device in the Windows sound settings, and made sure that it was available for exclusive access. I also changed the default playback device to the iLink in JRMC. I'm using WASAPI Event-Style in JRMC, with their recommended buffer setting. All this took less than 5 minutes.
I made sure that the iLink was plugged into a USB port with the other pair free. The digital coaxial cable was then removed from the Asus Xonar STX, and plugged into the "Normal" digital output of the iLink. I use a Rega DAC, and the "normal" level is what is recommended for Wolfson chips. The other end of the digital cable is connected to the Rega DAC. The Xonar STX has been retired from my PC.
I'm using the USB cable that came in the box for now, and because of the short length of the USB cable, I've left it on top of the Music PC.
I've tried a well-run in iLink in my system a while back, and I liked what it did very much, which is why I went ahead and bought this unit. The iLink distinctly removes a fine layer of grunge from the music. There is a smoother and unfettered flow to the music, and I could also sense an improvement in micro details. Instruments stand out better than they did before, and imaging is more defined. I'm very happy with the improvement this little device has brought about.
Three of the other reasons I bought this device:
1) I could use a USB out from the PC. I'd been using a Xonar STX for taking coaxial digital out from the PC, as my Rega DAC sounds best to me with a coaxial digital input. It does not sound good with a USB input.
2) I wanted to use a better clock than what STX's clock. It does not have a native clock for 44.1Khz and multiples, and it reportedly has higher jitter figures than most DACs.
3) I wanted the STX out of the PC cabinet, so that the cabinet was less crowded, with better airflow and possibly lesser EMI inside. I've disconnected the cabinet fans (and the mobo is fanless), so anything to improve cooling is a welcome thing.
Basically all 3 reasons stemmed from the thing that I wanted to have a better-sounding and sound-card free digital setup that I could use with a smaller cabinet if necessary, and with any other PC/Laptop if necessary, without having to change my DAC.
The box comes with:
1) An iLink.
2) 4 paste-on silicone feet.
3) A short USB cable.
4) A short lockable BNC - BNC cable.
5) A pair of RCA plugs that can be slotted onto the BNC plugs to convert the cable to a digital coaxial cable.
6) A short optical cable.
7) A very short pictorial quick-start guide, and warranty card.
The iLink itself is a very compact and well built device, with a full aluminium body. One end has a single USB - B socket. The other end has two digital coaxial outs, one is a high level digital out, and a normal level digital out (meant for use with 'older' chips like Wolfson). Next to the digital outputs, there's a toggle switch that turns the JET (jitter elimination tech) on and off. Next to the JET switch is a digital optical (TOSLINK) out.
The top of the device has three LEDs that indicate connection/power status, JET on/off and playback status. The device draws power from the PC via USB.
Setting it up was simple enough. I downloaded the driver from the iFi Audio website. It uses the same driver as the AMR DP777. The installation required the iLink to be plugged in, and took just 3 minutes or so. I then made the iFi iLink the default sound playback device in the Windows sound settings, and made sure that it was available for exclusive access. I also changed the default playback device to the iLink in JRMC. I'm using WASAPI Event-Style in JRMC, with their recommended buffer setting. All this took less than 5 minutes.
I made sure that the iLink was plugged into a USB port with the other pair free. The digital coaxial cable was then removed from the Asus Xonar STX, and plugged into the "Normal" digital output of the iLink. I use a Rega DAC, and the "normal" level is what is recommended for Wolfson chips. The other end of the digital cable is connected to the Rega DAC. The Xonar STX has been retired from my PC.
I'm using the USB cable that came in the box for now, and because of the short length of the USB cable, I've left it on top of the Music PC.
I've tried a well-run in iLink in my system a while back, and I liked what it did very much, which is why I went ahead and bought this unit. The iLink distinctly removes a fine layer of grunge from the music. There is a smoother and unfettered flow to the music, and I could also sense an improvement in micro details. Instruments stand out better than they did before, and imaging is more defined. I'm very happy with the improvement this little device has brought about.
Three of the other reasons I bought this device:
1) I could use a USB out from the PC. I'd been using a Xonar STX for taking coaxial digital out from the PC, as my Rega DAC sounds best to me with a coaxial digital input. It does not sound good with a USB input.
2) I wanted to use a better clock than what STX's clock. It does not have a native clock for 44.1Khz and multiples, and it reportedly has higher jitter figures than most DACs.
3) I wanted the STX out of the PC cabinet, so that the cabinet was less crowded, with better airflow and possibly lesser EMI inside. I've disconnected the cabinet fans (and the mobo is fanless), so anything to improve cooling is a welcome thing.
Basically all 3 reasons stemmed from the thing that I wanted to have a better-sounding and sound-card free digital setup that I could use with a smaller cabinet if necessary, and with any other PC/Laptop if necessary, without having to change my DAC.
heliumflight
Well-Known Member
yes, especially ifi/Rega Dac Vs Xonar STX ...Is there a day & night difference? Also would like to know which dac had the highest gain?
--
Helium
Asus Xonar STX + Bottlehead Foreplay III + Lyrita Audio SET 6C33C + Vintage Acoustic Research AR2ax + Lyrita cables = Nirvana
--
Helium
Asus Xonar STX + Bottlehead Foreplay III + Lyrita Audio SET 6C33C + Vintage Acoustic Research AR2ax + Lyrita cables = Nirvana
Thanks, guys! Yes, I will be more specific after I spend some time with the iLink.
About the improvement with the iLink over the Xonar STX, there is an improvement, but it is not a day and night difference.
The improvement is more than subtle, particularly in the way the music flows, the way music is presented, and in the way subtle details (which were less apparent before) stand out. The difference is more in these things, than in the actual tone (Bass/Mid/High) of the music reproduced by the system.
To put it in another way, I could sense far more improvement in the way the system plays instrumental Jazz numbers and Western Classical pieces, than in the way the system plays audiophile-vocal music with prominent vocals and sparse instrumentation.
EDIT: Just to be clear, I'm comparing Xonar STX > Digital Coaxial Cable > Rega DAC with PC > USB Cable > iFi iLink Micro > Digital Coaxial Cable > Rega DAC
About the improvement with the iLink over the Xonar STX, there is an improvement, but it is not a day and night difference.
The improvement is more than subtle, particularly in the way the music flows, the way music is presented, and in the way subtle details (which were less apparent before) stand out. The difference is more in these things, than in the actual tone (Bass/Mid/High) of the music reproduced by the system.
To put it in another way, I could sense far more improvement in the way the system plays instrumental Jazz numbers and Western Classical pieces, than in the way the system plays audiophile-vocal music with prominent vocals and sparse instrumentation.
EDIT: Just to be clear, I'm comparing Xonar STX > Digital Coaxial Cable > Rega DAC with PC > USB Cable > iFi iLink Micro > Digital Coaxial Cable > Rega DAC
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Congratulations Hydra! How about a full review?
Thanks, Naturelover! I do plan to put up a full review once I get some time with the iLink.
I now have one other item with me that I wanted to review:
I borrowed a Micro iDSD for review as soon as a unit came in with the D&D. The D&D claimed the first unit for himself. This is his. I hope he won't ask for it back before I get enough alone time with it.
I've got so many social commitments these days, that I barely have enough time to listen to music after work and my evenings out. I hope to be at home for a few days in the evenings after this weekend and spend some time with both these and put up a review.
Great going, Hydra! Just don't make us wait too long[emoji4]
Two new additions: A HDPlex Linear PSU and a HDPLex 250w DC-ATX power supply. These will replace the Silverstone SMPS in my PC Transport.
I've had these for a couple of days. I got to unbox and test-install these just today. Still in "bench" mode because the length of the SATA cable provided with the DC-ATX Power supply needs some managing inside my PC, to have it power both the SSD and the HDD.
Initial impressions are VERY positive. The PC transport now sounds like a whole new source! I never thought that replacing an SMPS could make so much difference. The improvement is substantial!
I've had these for a couple of days. I got to unbox and test-install these just today. Still in "bench" mode because the length of the SATA cable provided with the DC-ATX Power supply needs some managing inside my PC, to have it power both the SSD and the HDD.
Initial impressions are VERY positive. The PC transport now sounds like a whole new source! I never thought that replacing an SMPS could make so much difference. The improvement is substantial!
Looks great Hydra. I also belive that a linear psu is the way to improve Sq of comp. based audio. (I guess RoC has experienced the same). To that end I am looking at building a new music pc, with htplex chassis as well. Do post some pics. of the pc once you have the linear psu connected (internals will be appreciated) - or if you can e-mail me detailed pics - will be even better. I will pm you my mail id.
Cheers,
Sid
Cheers,
Sid
Thank you, Sidvee!
I came across information about the HDPlex PSU for the first time from RoC's posts.
The HDPlex chassis models are works of art! I was sorely tempted to order one with the PSU, to minimize logistical issues, for easier integration of PSU with chassis/internals, and to reduce the total price (They give a very good discount to owners of HDPlex Chassis and for combined buys). Unfortunately, what I wanted was the H5 model (which is out of stock), and a 2nd gen H5 is still in design phase.
Also, my current motherboard (Asus E35-M1-M)would not be compatible with the chassis, as the cooling system that is directly coupled to the processor is an integral part of the chassis, and the core of the fanless system. My motherboard has a fanless heatsink integrated to the motherboard, and it needs adequate ventilation to work well (which the HDPlex chassis does not have, or need, due to its design and intended hardware). I would have had to get a new motherboard and processor, and I don't think that's quite necessary right now.
You will need to do some background planning for the chassis buy, in terms of getting the right motherboard for the chassis model you opt for. A Thin-ITX motherboards would give the best results in terms of install for their H5 and H1 models. I could be wrong, but I don't think Thin-ITX motherboards are easily available in India right now.
Removing the SMPS has left a gaping hole behind my cabinet now, and I'd like to close it up neatly. I'll get an acrylic sheet (or metal sheet with powder coating done) cut to size and drilled appropriately so that I can mount the DC-ATX power supply properly. The lengths of wire provided are fairly adequate, but I will need to do some planning inside the cabinet, esp. to accommodate power wiring for an SSD and a HDD. I'm not quite ready for a NAS yet, so I'll be keeping an internal HDD to store data for a while.
The HDPlex PSU has a dedicated power output for an SOtM USB card. The card will take external power, thereby completely decoupling itself from power from motherboard. I might think of getting one as the next step, somewhere down the line.
I'll send you detailed pics of the install, Sidvee. Do PM me your email address.
I came across information about the HDPlex PSU for the first time from RoC's posts.
The HDPlex chassis models are works of art! I was sorely tempted to order one with the PSU, to minimize logistical issues, for easier integration of PSU with chassis/internals, and to reduce the total price (They give a very good discount to owners of HDPlex Chassis and for combined buys). Unfortunately, what I wanted was the H5 model (which is out of stock), and a 2nd gen H5 is still in design phase.
Also, my current motherboard (Asus E35-M1-M)would not be compatible with the chassis, as the cooling system that is directly coupled to the processor is an integral part of the chassis, and the core of the fanless system. My motherboard has a fanless heatsink integrated to the motherboard, and it needs adequate ventilation to work well (which the HDPlex chassis does not have, or need, due to its design and intended hardware). I would have had to get a new motherboard and processor, and I don't think that's quite necessary right now.
You will need to do some background planning for the chassis buy, in terms of getting the right motherboard for the chassis model you opt for. A Thin-ITX motherboards would give the best results in terms of install for their H5 and H1 models. I could be wrong, but I don't think Thin-ITX motherboards are easily available in India right now.
Removing the SMPS has left a gaping hole behind my cabinet now, and I'd like to close it up neatly. I'll get an acrylic sheet (or metal sheet with powder coating done) cut to size and drilled appropriately so that I can mount the DC-ATX power supply properly. The lengths of wire provided are fairly adequate, but I will need to do some planning inside the cabinet, esp. to accommodate power wiring for an SSD and a HDD. I'm not quite ready for a NAS yet, so I'll be keeping an internal HDD to store data for a while.
The HDPlex PSU has a dedicated power output for an SOtM USB card. The card will take external power, thereby completely decoupling itself from power from motherboard. I might think of getting one as the next step, somewhere down the line.
I'll send you detailed pics of the install, Sidvee. Do PM me your email address.
Thank you for sharing the details of the PSU Hydra. I'm curious to know too. 
How much was the landed cost BTW?
How much was the landed cost BTW?
Thank you, Nikhil and Captrajesh!
Nikhil, I'll do that. Things are still in bench mode, and as soon as the install is cleaned up, I'll send the pics.
I'm in a slight quandary about my media storage right now because of the length of the wires from the 250w DC-ATX supply, the positioning of the SATA connectors on the wire, and because of the way the drives are installed in my Silverstone GD04 Cabinet: These three elements don't quite agree/align completely and let me install things neatly and safely enough. I'll make a decision between a new internal 2.5" drive (this will install well), or an external eSata enclosure for the 3.5" drive. I can also use a SATA male to SATA female connector to extend the length of the internal SATA power cables also (so that I can continue keeping the 3.5" drive internally), but I can't find any locally. I'll finalize the install as soon as this decision is sorted out.
Capt., the HDplex Linear PSU was $358.00 and the HDPlex 250w DC-ATX PSU was $85.00 + $39.50 shipping. (Shipping on the PSU was free/included in the price). FedEx charged me Rs.1217.00 total for duty and handling. The items came triple boxed with padding in the last box, and they got delivered on the 7th day from the day I ordered them. Larry at HDPlex is great with answering questions really fast, and processing the order fast too!
Nikhil, I'll do that. Things are still in bench mode, and as soon as the install is cleaned up, I'll send the pics.
I'm in a slight quandary about my media storage right now because of the length of the wires from the 250w DC-ATX supply, the positioning of the SATA connectors on the wire, and because of the way the drives are installed in my Silverstone GD04 Cabinet: These three elements don't quite agree/align completely and let me install things neatly and safely enough. I'll make a decision between a new internal 2.5" drive (this will install well), or an external eSata enclosure for the 3.5" drive. I can also use a SATA male to SATA female connector to extend the length of the internal SATA power cables also (so that I can continue keeping the 3.5" drive internally), but I can't find any locally. I'll finalize the install as soon as this decision is sorted out.
Capt., the HDplex Linear PSU was $358.00 and the HDPlex 250w DC-ATX PSU was $85.00 + $39.50 shipping. (Shipping on the PSU was free/included in the price). FedEx charged me Rs.1217.00 total for duty and handling. The items came triple boxed with padding in the last box, and they got delivered on the 7th day from the day I ordered them. Larry at HDPlex is great with answering questions really fast, and processing the order fast too!
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