My Garrard 401 and L75 builds, a learning experience on all fronts!!

[reubensm]

Now to the Lenco plinth:

Here's a shot of the plinth with the deck removed. Some of the nail-heads are visible:

Shot of the tonearm base, where it was glued (and came out from). After all these years of his experience and with the good fortune of he being one of the very few who have been there and done it, this is the last thing I would have expected. This was done without consultation. Fortunately I was asked about cutting the Lenco top plate and rejected the idea outright. I cannot imagine my Lenco with a cut top plate. I did not want the tonearm on the chassis and went in for this plinth build with that in mind. The moment Mr. Kuruvila attempted to mount the tonearm on the chassis, my expectations were not met from that point on:

The disfigured tonearm base which fell out of position, completely ruined:

The missing tonearm wiring tag-board with the mounting screw left behind. The rear of this screw was engaging with the plinth below, causing the top plate to wobble. The top plate was forcefully screwed down over this. Fortunately the quality of Lenco's top plate is very good and the screw actually dug into the plinth below, and saved the top plate from warping:

The deck switch was not engaging (Mr. Kuruvila asked me to "charge" the capacitor) and this was corrected with a minor recalibration of the position (noticeable in the pic):

While comparing the decks with the pics I had taken before giving them to Mr. Kuruvila, noticed that one nut was missing, replaced with a spare from my junk box:

A shot of the mount extentions, again the original Lenco mounting screws are disfigured but not so bothered about these anyways. An original Lenco mounting screw is definitely not in the same league as a original Garrard mounting screw:

Decided to mount back the stock arm as I had got this completely refurbished (with the intention of using it for ceramic use). Started with the lift mechanism (thankfully Mr. Kuruvilla had done the plinth cutting to spec, using the original blue prints provided to me by my good friend FM Joshua):

And then carefully mounted back the arm, new v-blocks and all:

The lady lenco with her stock tonearm:

The veneer work on the Lenco is pathetically done, needs to be pulled out and replaced (or redone) as there are glue stains on them. The carpenter has quoted Rs.1500 to do this. Here are a few examples:

This is how the revised philosophy will look. I am not happy or convinced about the Jelco's positioning. The base is in direct contact with the Lenco chassis defeating the purpose of mounting the tonearm outside the chassis:

 

[reubensm]

Reuben,

I don't know what purpose you are achieving by posting all the gory details and pictures, other than to tell the World, how bad and careless a fellow member is. I think that purpose is served now. Also we all now know that you need to spend/spent Rs. 30000/- for all this. Understood.

Can you please close this thread now and stop further vilification of a fellow member. My reading of this matter is that you believed you could outsource this entire plinth business to someone who is an amateur and not a pro, without dirtying your own hand. In the process you got yourself into a bind. Please retrieve the situation and do what is required (which you seem to be doing now and most of them simple fixes) instead of endless posts on what went wrong. I don't know if anyone is planning to go to the FM for plinths or that he is volunteering to do plinths for others. There ends the matter.

Cheers.

Thanks, I am sorry I saw this post only after the Lenco post. Shall do as directed.

 

[vea]

Reubensm,

Sorry to see the damages. But I dont think Mr. kuruvila intentionally mishandled your equipment. Looks to me that he just didnt meet your expectations in terms of handling your stuff. I have bought a Lenco from him and sold it back later after doing some mods. When he took it back, He just kept it in his car boot and all the protection for the Thomas Schik arm was a bit of painter's masking tape over it! Worrying it was, but he was cool with it. Im sure he would have cared better for your gear.

All i want to say is that he would have taken enough care of your stuff, but seems your expectations were beyond it. As some members pointed out, take it in good faith and forget.

 

[arj]

Reubensm while you are redoing the plinth also do the following

1. Put 3-4 steel screws and bolt the top plate to the plinth. This needs to be done around the motor and near the idler arm. The vibration management improves substantially and actually gets the sound notches above
2. Put plumbers tape on the idler arm.

 

[reubensm]

Thanks all for the support and kind words, hey, this is not a personal attack of any sorts, just a bit of frustration venting Was quite upset about it so had to talk, that's all. Lets leave it at that. I am not able to close the thread as advised so lets leave it at that and continue. We'll have fun getting them back up. Honestly, deep down, I think he had done a great job on the plinths, the cutting and fit is almost perfect with just some minor tweaks required. We'll take care of the cosmetics. These plinths are like ladies, they can be easily dressed up to look great

A friend will paint the tonearm bases for me. That will be taken care off. I am so thrilled in seeing my Lenco stock arm back (hand carried from Toronto where a good friend helped refurbish it). The Lenco tonearm was a perfect fit in context of the plinth. Lets see how this goes. I will get the Lenco to sing by next week. I have a customer visit at Bangalore next week and will be out of station.

Arjun, have a query. Mr Kuruvilla also suggested bolting the top plate to the plinth. I requested him to let it be as I wanted to experience the difference. But I will ultimately do this. Kindly advise where the top plate needs to be bolted

Also Mr. Kuruvila was suggesting an acrylic idler arm. I found this idea radical but thought it was a brilliant idea. Would that help? If I am to use the stock arm, how many layers of plumber's tape would be required?

A FM friend on Lenco Heaven advised to put a later of plumber's tape over the pivot assembly and then lower it into the tonearm base. Any thoughts on this? I thought of trying it out.

 

[reubensm]

Yes you are right, I am the old scrooge-like accountant after all. Lets move on and continue the good work on these plinths. Spares are coming so now we are back on track.

Good news once again, got the SP25 spinning today. Its so gentle and silent. Fantastic torque when compared to the Garrard and Lenco. Touching its buttons is a lovely experience, so responsive Its a pity that Technics exited the TT business. They were outstanding.

Reubensm,

Sorry to see the damages. But I dont think Mr. kuruvila intentionally mishandled your equipment. Looks to me that he just didnt meet your expectations in terms of handling your stuff. I have bought a Lenco from him and sold it back later after doing some mods. When he took it back, He just kept it in his car boot and all the protection for the Thomas Schik arm was a bit of painter's masking tape over it! Worrying it was, but he was cool with it. Im sure he would have cared better for your gear.

All i want to say is that he would have taken enough care of your stuff, but seems your expectations were beyond it. As some members pointed out, take it in good faith and forget.

 

[arj]

Arjun, have a query. Mr Kuruvilla also suggested bolting the top plate to the plinth. I requested him Hi, is the d610 still available ? Am interested and in Bangalore let it be as I wanted to experience the difference. But I will ultimately do this. Kindly advise where the top plate needs to be bolted

.

You can put it anywhere on the round depression which houses the mechanism. Put more than three symmetrically so the top plate presses and is coupled to the bottom..

Not sure of the tape on the tone arm