Our theater room

Great ht ... the aspect ratio is icing on the cake + room acoustics + black color gives that ultimate theater feel.
 
what projector are you using? i need a new one and my budget is 3.50L. Please suggest a few and i am keen on JVC, Sim2 and any other high end. Thanks!
 
my projector is infocus 777.
At 3.5 lacs, Sim2 will be out of budget. But JVC with their dila is very nice for the money. That new rs45 looks so good from reviews.

choosing a projector though depends on lots of other factors, like screen size, throw distance, room height, whether projector will be used with pc and text, gaming etc. Pl post these details and you will sure get good advice here in the forum.
 
Manoj,
.
I will like to share my story about 4:3.

During the early days of my watching movies via projector, i used to always search for aspect ratio of 4:3, irrespective of the story, the reason was to have a full screen image and otherwise also i used to zoom a lot for the movies which were in smaller aspects.

I was advised by a forum member that a movie should always be watched in the format by which it is issued and should not zoom, i did not take him seriously, but later i realized he was very much right. I wish my first projector was Epson 8350 because it does not have a zoom picture option and nor can it fake the aspect ratio.

If anyone who buys a new projector is most likely to zoom or fake the ratio to 4:3 therefore to control his greed, 8350 etc could be better.

V.

Thanks Vinay,

The screen is the Constant Image Height setup. The height remains same for all aspect ratios and image width changes. So for 16:9, whole screen is not filled and there are side bars on both sides. I was planning to do motorized masks to mask down the screen to 16:9 and 4:3 but haven't got to it yet. May be I will never do it and leave it as it is.
 
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Vinay,
yes, agree totally with you. I like to watch the movies, videos etc at the original aspect ratios. That's why I don't mind having side/top black bars in the picture. I watch mostly movies, so decided to make the biggest screen possible in cinemascope aspect ratio.

currently, all the video projectors are with widescreen 16:9 aspect ratios and have the options for full frame, pan scan etc for different ar. Best thing to do with them is select native aspect ratio.
 
Very nicely done Manoj..

We folks in India have to work in concrete walls, with all the limitations. I have just about completed my basement HT room, havent put in any furniture yet, will post photos shortly.
 
Alok,
Yes, its a fixed screen. Its a DIY, Designer white Laminate from wilsonart. I made the frame and used cement glue to glue the laminate to frame. Then added the velvet border to the frame.
 
Yes, the ceiling looks nice. we thought of adding a false ceiling there (the vaulted ceiling makes the room very hot or cold, depending on season). But then it would have taken away all the beauty of this room. In the end, the significant other decided to keep the ceiling. Glad she did!
 
Very nicely done Manoj. The best thing about your HT that I like is your room size. That's nearly as good as it can get for a private theater. Of course you have taken every step carefully to meet your needs and your passion shows through.

I am wondering why do you need the feedback destroyer, given that your HT room is dedicated and you have total control over it's acoustic properties. A feedback destroyer is not really warranted here. Are you really using it?
 
Ranjeet,

Thanks for the compliments.

You are right, one can take care of the peaks n dips by doing room treatments, bass traps and subwoofer placements. I could also get more or less flatter response for subwoofer with the room treatments and sub placements. Then why use Feedback destroyer?

My room is not completely sealed. We have one open entry at the back which opens to living room which is again open to the kitchen. My subs roll off at 24Hz or so and rely on room gain for lower frequencies. I wanted below 20Hz performance. Because the room is not sealed, practically, there is no room gain at lower frequencies. The subs do have one PEQ filter. I used it to boost the low end frequency. But that injected some uneven response between 14 Hz to 40 Hz. So, I am using the Feedback destroyer instead to boost the low end frequencies. Since it has more eq filters, I could adjust more filters at different frequencies to still get the flat response between 18 to 40. So, I use it for that purpose and have now the flat response from 18 to 80. It has 12 filters per channel, so I could use few of those to even get flat response from 40 to 80. Although it was very minor updates.

One good thing about feedback destroyer is that it can connect to computer with MIDI to USB adapter. REQ can connect to it directly and push the eq filters to it without fiddling with buttons. That made the job of measuring, eq and remeasure very easy.
 
I used one for a short while. The reason why I bought one was that my HT room was pretty small (10x9 feet) and I was getting a intolerable boundary gain. The subwoofer was too powerful for the room and I was having a hard time taming it down. But IMO, it also screwed the sound every once in a while. I took it out of the equation as soon as I moved to a larger place. Still gathering dust in my collection.
 
The thing with any equalizer and adding/reducing any frequency gains is that it will remove the peak/dip at one frequency at a point in room but will add it somewhere else. That's the hard fact. The best way to take of boundary gains or any peaks dips is trying different sub placements till its gone, use multiple subs and or move the sub very close to the listening position (so that you hear the sub first directly before the room hears and throws the reflections back). Trying to equalize it will only do it for the position where the measurements are taken. Adding multiple subs (ideally 4, each at the center of the room) takes care of most of the peaks/dips and improves seat to seat consistency. It still may not be accurate freq response, but it will still be consistent from one seat to another. Now, having multiple subs is not ideal for all, because of the room limitation, aesthetics and budget.

That's where the eq comes into picture. Fortunately, I have only two seats in the theater room, so it wasn't that bad. If one has to do proper equalization, then best way is to measure the room response at each of the seat or at the positions more important to the listening area. Superimpose those and try to get an average room response. Try to equalize to get that curve as flat as possible.

But you are right - Eq is a double edged sword. It can easily make or break things. What's more, it can work very fine in one room and in another it may not improve things at all. Best way is like what you did. see if it works, if it doesn't, remove out of the equation.
 
manoj
A query for you:

How is the display quality when projected on a laminate viz a viz a blackout cloth?
Do you think Wilsonart is really better than some decent laminates available in India, like say Greenlam?
 
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