Thank God again. Grateful for reminding on the switches. You sure got a list run before your eyes looking at it condition. Yes, the switches are straight out of a ship wreck. I wasn't very sure if I could use an anti-corrosion oil, or a simple 3-in-1 (good old singer), or Tredmilll Lubricant spray, or may be WD40 spray. In the past coconut oil was universal and to some better use, Brylcreem was used as we used to be called Brylcream boys once upon a time. With the 3-in-1 or WD40, we would let it soak for a while and wipe it to remove rust/ corrosion, sometime a gentle brush with a fine 000 paper. I noticed the motor is in permanent start configuration. The Stop button is not working. I would like to make sure it works as it will keep the motor and platter running at the end of the LP. Some advantages of an auto-stop like the GC032, where one could go off to sleep with music running. With AT LP120, I will miss that. Since AT is a more popular and far more widely made TT, chances of getting spares and support for coming years are good. Hence, did not look for other brand names which bring fond memories of the yester years.A few observations on your TTs. The GA 242 is a later model, with red power indicator. So the electronics should be okay. Do lubricate the speed control switch, from inside.
The GC O32 will need a motor grommet ( rubber suspension) replacement. Someone has also replaced the original mat with a mat fitted on the later Hi Q International tt. If so, then the ' lip' at the edge may touch the body. Check this.
You are right, the GC studs are all gone and it runs like the e-rick without shockers, sometimes speed takes a knock and at times start is assisted. I did not know if I could find a kit. That shoddy job was done several years ago from the plumbing spares. Will I be able to get a replacement kit? Or do I improvise it. I guess this isnt just as simple and straight as any suspension because the motor and spindle are to appear at at those fixed heights to get its correct ration of rpm from spindle. Also, for now, there is no bushing at the anchors and the entire motor shifts laterally thus changing the tensions of the idler wheel and spindle contact. I had some wild ideas of using silicon to fill the gaps on the anchor points and hold the levels till silicon dries. These days, even the road-side resurrections are pretty neat. Request you to please advise me on this part.
On your observation about the "lip" of the "mat" likely to "touch the body", are you referring to the rubber Mat of GC032 platter? Or something else which I am completely unaware of? I am adding a couple of video of both the platter with mat and after removal of platter, the "Jugaad" i have put in place to keep it going. Yes, there is a play developed in the Idler Wheel assembly which is regulated by the speed assembly. I had decided to place a sponge in the assembly well as there is nothing else I could do to keep the Arm and shaft of idler wheel with the spring. If you notice, I am trying to indicate the play by trying to get the idler wheel arm parallel to the ground I can try to add a low tension flat rubber and stick it to the floor of the assembly cavity and and the lever where the spring attaches to the assembly. The play has set in at the pivot shaft. Aa washer too could do the trick. For now, several flaws add up to a small flaw in sum total, hence I was wondering if I try to correct the play. But if there is a way to get a new suspension for the motor, the ride could be so much quieter. Dont know how to get it done.
NB : The video has turned out to be very large. I will have to reduce the size and also make smaller sections since I have explained a couple of issues on it. For now, this goes as it is. Sorry.
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