quality of power and quality of sound

[haisaikat]

Your speaker is 88 dB and says power is 15-150W. Your amp consumes 180W in Class A..and pur class As these days have an efficiency of around 20% ( used to be 10)

If your Amp is getting hot it may primarily be because the unused power from Class A is being dissipated as Heat ( which is how Pure class A works)..hence in most probability the average consumption by your speaker is much less than 36W ( assuming 20% efficiency) although it may have a higher instantaneous pull.

Hence consumption would be around 180W..

Thanks for the explanation, are you saying that this operates initially for first 36 watts in class A and then AB?

Earlier I had CA 650A which is class AB at 75 watts per channel at 8 ohms and max consumption of 650 watts. I loved the 650A signature greatly and this upgrade improved dynamics to a very large extent where sound became more airy too. Is that because of the extra headroom?

 

[arj]

In a very simple way Class A/B changes the power and hence the input depending on speakers load
The Pure Class A always operates at the highest power irrespective of its load whatever it does not consume it dissipates as heat. hence the speaker get the power at the time it wants it. Only problem is if the load is higher than the range it operates in..but. in your amp it swithches to Class B.

While the Class A will make the sound more dynamic, being airy might be because the new amp has a better design or components..I am assuming here.

 

[captrajesh]

For a dac you can consider battery power from Vinnie Rossi and get off the grid.

I googled Vinnie Rossi & was browsing the links and I came across this: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...y-review-and-comparison-to-uptone-lps-1.1853/

 

[AmK]

This is another option, although a bit pricey, for isolation transformers: http://jandkaudiodesign.blogspot.com/search/label/Isolation Transformer

I interacted over a few emails with the seller. He seems to know his stuff.

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I use the Oppo 103 as a digital source (usb attached hard drive for file playback, and Tidal over the network).

Recently changed the stock SMPS in the Oppo, to an LPS from Oppomod (http://www.oppomod.com/). A nice step in sound quality.

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Have tried a few other power improvement tricks.

Fuses from Furutech and Telos Audio Design (throughout my system.

NCF IEC inlet from Furutech.

Silver plated copper cables for the digital board (https://actsessory.com/2018/02/22/digital-power-upgrade-kit-for-oppo-bdp-93-95-103-105/)

Can't really quantify if I heard any major changes. Maybe, the upgraded fuses did add a bit of energy/life to the music.

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Now I am trying to find a way to improve the sound of the USB attached HDD to my Oppo. Get a battery pack/power bank to supply power to the HDD, and then connect the HDD to the Oppo with a USB cable (data-only USB cable)

Any suggestions for a power bank/battery pack to power an external HDD (1 tb, so I presume it would require 5volts and 1 amp?)

Good usb cables (with data-only option)?

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Lastly, I read on Computer Audiophile that upgrading the power supply to the modem, cleans things up in streaming Tidal. I use MTNL/Jio - both come with wall warts rated at 12V/2amp. Any suggestions for LPS?

 

[haisaikat]

Lastly, I read on Computer Audiophile that upgrading the power supply to the modem, cleans things up in streaming Tidal. I use MTNL/Jio - both come with wall warts rated at 12V/2amp. Any suggestions for LPS?

Is this for real? Isn't there a network protocol to ensure error correction even if in remote possibility to assume that power supply of router hampers Tidal streaming? Wouldn't then downloads using a router having a standard SMPS power supply would result in bit imperfect downloads?

 

[rikhav]

What it does is that it might to error correction but adds electrical noise to audio equipment it connects

I don't know how to explain how that happens in absolute details but there are many who have found improvement with using an audiophile grade switch with audio grade capacitors, linear regulators and a linear power supply and also ultra low jitter clock

Is the Money asked for such a switch justified?
NO

Unless you have a dac and a transport which by itself is very clean

 

[haisaikat]

What it does is that it might to error correction but adds electrical noise to audio equipment it connects

I don't know how to explain how that happens in absolute details but there are many who have found improvement with using an audiophile grade switch with audio grade capacitors, linear regulators and a linear power supply and also ultra low jitter clock

Is the Money asked for such a switch justified?
NO

Unless you have a dac and a transport which by itself is very clean

I think what you are referring to as is a case where the default power adapter of a router is mostly SMPS based and introduces noise in turn back to the mains line, which, if common to the audio devices can pass on the noise to the Audio devices too (specifically ones with Clocks). I think this is the only way to pass on the electrical noise rather than through the LAN cables. In my case router and Audio equipments are on separate mains phases.

In above case what can be done best is a isolation transformer and CVT / Power filter for clock-audio devices instead of changing PSU of all devices connected to the mains or keep un-necessary electrical devices to off state.

 

[insane79]

All on normal 5A circuits.
Wonder what amps would require 15A circuits.
Cheers,
Raghu

you run everything on 5amp sockets? you mean each device (amp) on its own 5 amp socket?


Thanks.