Review :Topping T22 Amplifier

Just ordered for a FX Audio D802 last night. I'm hoping it gets here soon. Looking forward to see how it pairs with my MA Bx2 bookshelf speakers!
 
When searching for tpa3116 amp I came across this site.....

https://www.tanotis.com/products/50w-50w-tpa3116d2-digital-power-amplifier-board-official-version

This site is listing lot of diy boards. Prices are in Rs. and looks very competitive.
Any FM having experience with this supplier can share the same which will help others.

To my surprise, the contact address is Bangalore, which is less than 2 KM distance from my House(I am at Rajajinagar). It seems I can go and visit once and find out whether he is a reliable supplier.

I bought from Tanotis the TPA3118 PBTL (parallel bridged tied load) version out of sheer curiosity as I've been following the super long threads discussing both TPA3116 and TPA3118 on diyaudio.

Each board is a mono board rated by Tanotis as 60W. There's no mention at what speaker load (4 or 6 or 8 Ohm) or at what THD level this claimed power is generated.

The boards are fully assembled and they use tiny SMD parts. Even the power supply decoupling capacitors (220 uF, 25V) are surface mounted and not through hole. There are through-hole solder pads for DC input (12-24V), audio inputs, speaker outputs, and most critically a pair of pads to fit an on-off switch for Mute. This switch helps avoid turn on thump.

I use one each 19.5V/4.7A laptop power adapter to power each board, so I don't get the full rated power, but whatever power these boards are making is more than sufficient to power my 86 dB speakers to party-loud levels. I'm guessing even the non-PBTL boards with 30W into 8 Ohm loads will be more than sufficient for most of us.

In stock form, the gain of the amplifier is 32 dB.

In stock form it plays quite nicely but there is harshness to the sound. The highs and mids can be a bit piercing for my liking.

After listening for few days I did a number of mods and could tame the sound nearly to my liking. I say "nearly" because I haven't achieved the warmth I wanted in the mids.

I will start a thread about the mods I implemented. Most of these mods are very risky because it involves desoldering and soldering very tiny SMD parts. But the results are pleasing.

Cost: Rs 1070 for two boards. Two used laptop bricks for Rs 700. Add costs of two RCA sockets, two pairs of binding posts, two DC input sockets, two SPST switches for Mute, plus cost of a small cabinet. I haven't tallied final cost but I'm guessing it will be below Rs 3000. This amp punches well above the entry models of mainstream audio brands.

For those inclined to buy a 'more' ready-made solution, there are similar boards with stereo EP socket built into the board for audio input, with volume pot built into the board, and a screw-on type of speaker binding post. No soldering will be required for such models. There are even models with only Bluetooth connection which can be paired directly to your smart phone.
 
a lot of people are very happy with the TPA3116 + 6N3P tube buffer combo - perhaps that will help taking care of the highs and the mids ?

I can't afford yet another buffer/preamp. I already have too many:)

Have you tried the IRS2092 based class D amp? That has much more power but needs bipolar switched supply which isn't easy to get in higher amperage ratings. I would be very keen to try the IRS2092.
 
Thanks to each and everyone for sharing this is one of the best threads I have come across

Sent from my MotoE2 using Tapatalk
 
I can't afford yet another buffer/preamp. I already have too many:)

Have you tried the IRS2092 based class D amp? That has much more power but needs bipolar switched supply which isn't easy to get in higher amperage ratings. I would be very keen to try the IRS2092.

I have tried four different class D Amps in different ranges of power
TDA7492 - TPA3116 - TDA7498 - TAS5630

Of these , the TDA7492 was distinctly underpowered
However I couldn't notice any discernible difference between the other three except that the TAS5630 seemed to have more headroom to drive at higher volumes
If I had the option to start again, I would buy the TPA3116 (Dual chip board) or maybe the TDA7498

PS used:
TDA7492 - 18.5V
TPA3116 - 22V
TSA7498 - 32V
TAS5630 - 36V
 
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Are the Class D amplifiers suitable to Analog source? , (Phono preamp) - Vinyl records listening?
 
I am using Volt+ from Allo. They provide acrylic case as well (extra charge).

https://www.allo.com/sparky/volt-plus-amp.html

It uses TPA3118. Ships from Bangalore. Value for money.
Of course no affilication with the seller. :)
Any reviews on Vana player?

Apparently Kali is 22mhz in that bundle, how much difference does 22 Kali will make?
Or buying a Volt+, Kali and Piano combo + power supply separately would be better ?

Vana player is at 170$, is there any separate Indian pricing available for it?

Sorry for my noobish doubts, I'd prefer a plug and play type of device, will it (bundles) need any kind of assembling?

How does this combo fair over hifi berry bundled with a topping amp.
 
Are the Class D amplifiers suitable to Analog source? , (Phono preamp) - Vinyl records listening?

These types of class D amp module/board discussed here accepts line level inputs, meaning the output of line level preamplifiers, or even outputs from CD player, DACs, phono preamplifiers. But one needs volume control (if the class D module doesn't have volume control built in) so it is best to drive it from a line level preamp. Besides volume control, the preamp will also act was a buffer. Many builders who have tried putting a potentiometer on such boards have reported poor results when using a passive volume control without active buffer. So a buffer with volume control or a proper preamplifier is preferable with these boards.
 
These types of class D amp module/board discussed here accepts line level inputs, meaning the output of line level preamplifiers, or even outputs from CD player, DACs, phono preamplifiers. But one needs volume control (if the class D module doesn't have volume control built in) so it is best to drive it from a line level preamp. Besides volume control, the preamp will also act was a buffer. Many builders who have tried putting a potentiometer on such boards have reported poor results when using a passive volume control without active buffer. So a buffer with volume control or a proper preamplifier is preferable with these boards.

jls001, thanks for explained in detail. Really I got some ideas. I do have a tube buffer but without volume pot. As you said, without the volume control it'll not be fair. I think, using with an active line level pre + Buffer will be considered authoritative. But, before the Class D amp so many thinks to be connected. TT- Phono pre - Line level preamp - Buffer.
Regards.
 
If you use line level preamp, there is no need for a buffer after the preamp. The preamp has a buffer in it.
 
If you use line level preamp, there is no need for a buffer after the preamp. The preamp has a buffer in it.

But, the volume control of Class D to be turned in full, then the volume control of the line level preamp can be adjusted. Isn't it?
 
But, the volume control of Class D to be turned in full, then the volume control of the line level preamp can be adjusted. Isn't it?

Personally I would not buy a cheap Class D board/module with inbuilt volume control as I don't know for sure whether it is just a potentiometer at the signal input, or there is a buffer built in too. Using an external preamp or standalone buffer with volume control is much more preferable. You will typically see that boards with volume control also have a pair of RCA sockets soldered on the board. The spacing of such RCAs is very close since the board itself is very small. Your choice of RCA cables will be severely restricted as you won't be able to use any RCA connector with a large barrel.

One more thing that matters a lot on such boards is whether or not it has a Mute switch or pads on the board to solder an on-off switch for Mute. The Mute helps avoid thump during power on, and protects speakers. There are ways to implement muting but all of them are very involved, so it's best to get a board that already has Mute facility.
 
jls001, could you please name few class d amps with buffer built in volume control and with mute facility?Thanks.
 
the allo tpa3118 board seems to have an input buffer as there are a bunch of KSC1845FTA's on the board which are a popular choice for preamp (high Beta, low noise etc)
not sure about where the potentiometer on the board fits in though
 
Any reviews on Vana player?

Apparently Kali is 22mhz in that bundle, how much difference does 22 Kali will make?
Or buying a Volt+, Kali and Piano combo + power supply separately would be better ?

Vana player is at 170$, is there any separate Indian pricing available for it?

Sorry for my noobish doubts, I'd prefer a plug and play type of device, will it (bundles) need any kind of assembling?

How does this combo fair over hifi berry bundled with a topping amp.

Sorry for my delayed reply. I don't use Vana player, so no idea about it.
Vana player has their Sparky SBC. Not sure if Sparky can run RPi's OSes. But Allo website says it supports Volumio. So, if you prefer plug & play. Vana player should suite your need. It comes with fully assembled acrylic board. You might need separate power supply for Volt amp.

You can write to Allo. They will direct you to Indian contact. They will provide you invoice in INR. And just a bank transfer.
 
Buy from India's official online dealer!
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