The essence of photography

[Shivam]

Hi Guys, I need help on 2 things

a) I want to clean my dslr sensor by a professional coz way too much dust has gone into it, i tried one in Mumbai but that guy made it worse and charged 2k!!! i did send it back again to him but still it was all over my sensor.i gave up.

b)I need a cheap camera strap for my canon 350dslr (service guy forgot to put it back)
..So can anyone recommend a good service shop in Bangalore for my above issues??

Thanxs

Charge your camera battery completely before cleaning.
Use a blower bulb (not brush) with intake filter (like Giotto rocket blower) and blow away all the dirt.
Click a test photo at the minimum lens aperture and totally out of focus white background. A little camera movement will further help.
If there is still dust, give another go at the blower bulb.
If it is stuck, use a sensor swab with Eclipse or E2 fluid. These swabs are available in most photography shops including good ones in India. Remember to choose the fluid according to the filter on your sensor. These can be purchased in single use, wet swabs or swabs and fluid separately.

Make sure that the room in which you are attempting to clean is dust free, not too dry and with no or minimal air movement.


Invest good money in camera strap. It should be very comfortable and should hold the camera securely. Remember : the more comfortable you are, the better photos you'll be able to make.

 

[ajay124]

Learning the basics of photography has become some kind of a passion. My pictures are not very good but it does not really matter because the thrill of the chase is more exciting than its conclusion I am beginning to realize that photography is not about buying expensive DSLR's or monstrously expensive zoom lenses. It is not about making style statements and looking cool with a professional looking beast in your hand. It is not about making a bland and banal record of your memories with a pop up flash and a point and shoot technique.

Buying a Nikon or Canon DSLR is just a beginning. For a first timer, an entry level DSLR with an entry level zoom, or preferably an entry level prime, is enough. But the skill of using a Nikon or Canon cannot be borrowed, or bought with money. It can only be bought with hard work and dedication. Photography, especially photography by an enthusiastic amateur who shoots merely for his or her own pleasure, is a solo exploration concerning the essence of light and how it gives meaning to our universe. How it falls on or reflects of an object or a subject. What tones and colors it imbues to the subject. Photography is the art of determining and capturing the right amount of light with a camera. Without understanding one's camera and the tools it provides for capturing light, one cannot even begin taking moderately acceptable pictures. Unfortunately many folks who buy a DSLR for amateur and professional reasons, have neither the time nor the inclination to understand the tools of the trade. They are in a hurry to point and shoot. And when they are not happy with their pictures, they upgrade their camera and buy more expensive lenses :sad:

 

[ajay124]

These days I am trying to get a hang of metering. To understand metering is to understand the mind of your camera and how it determines the lighting conditions and the degree of light which should reach the sensor. Earlier photographers used to rely upon the spot and center weighted metering options provided by their cameras. In spot metering the camera meters (measures light) from a small area which may be 1-5% of the whole scene in the viewfinder. In center weighted metering the camera meters from the central part of the frame which may be around 40-60% of the whole scene. On my D90 I can choose a 6mm, 8mm or10mm centre weighted area. Each of these options would change the percentage of the area from which the camera meters, which in turn would influence the final exposure.

In the early 80's Nikon made life easier for photographers by developing 'automatic multi pattern metering'. A concept which is now the default setting in most cameras. It goes by different names in different brands- matrix metering, honeycomb, evaluative metering etc. In matrix metering the camera automatically takes readings from different part of the scene and determines the final exposure by averaging out all the readings. In effect (like every auto mode on a DSLR) it replaces the brain of the photographer with the brain of the camera. The brain of a Canon or a Nikon is highly intelligent but it is a non-human intelligence. It is only dimly aware of what pleases the human eye or pleasures the human mind. This is the reason why I want to shoot manual and take as much of the control as is possible in my own hands. My Nikon D90 and 50mm 1.8D are excellent tools. All shortcomings in the pictures I take are my own responsibility

As far as possible I am now trying to avoid using matrix metering. I am experimenting with centre weighted and spot metering and trying to understand Ansel Adam's Zone System.

Nick Miners Photography ? The Zone System

Yesterday I went to the park in the evening to experiment with spot and centre weighted metering. It was a dull, grey and cloudy day. Devoid of colors or good light. Everything looked so ordinary and plain. For a moment a little bit of sunlight was visible through the leaves of a tree. I metered from the sunlight, locked the exposure by pressing the AE-L button and refocused on a bunch of red flowers blossoming on the tree. The result were a couple of mildly interesting shots

les fleurs du mal | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

 

[Shivam]

Evaluative metering is an interesting way to meter but it requires a basic understanding of the way it works. The main problems faced with evaluative metering are the under exposure with dark filters like - polarisers, ND filters and sometimes even coloured filters. Best is to know the exposure compensation needed for each filter and dial in the same. This is similar to to the days when there was no TTL metering.

Centre weighted and Spot metering both evaluate the central zone or spot as being close to grey or averaging out to grey. This is true of many portraits and scenes but a better method would be to study the incident light itself and then calculate the exposure. Spot meter is quite useful in such cases. Problems faced with such methods are when the scene is not predominantly of a value close to grey. Strictly going by these meterings, a white skin person and dark skin person will have the same skin color in the final photograph. Snow will come out as grey coloured, dark nights will have a sickly grey tone in exposures. So with spot and centre weighted metering also, a careful judgement is needed. With the use of digital cameras this has become very easy and all one has to do is to see the resulting photograph's curve.

Ansal Adams, had he been born today, might have used evaluative metering too.
His method too of exposure zones needs a little tweaking for digital media. The digital cameras are not capable of 10 zones as per his method but only 7 or 8 in the best of the cameras. The results can therefore be limited to a lesser number of zones. As always there are ways to cheat. The curves can be altered in such a way that it spreads from the area of maximum to minimum, without any space at either end. HDR is also a nice thing to try if such results are required. For doing all this remember to click raw.

 

[anm]

Unfortunately many folks who buy a DSLR for amateur and professional reasons, have neither the time nor the inclination to understand the tools of the trade. They are in a hurry to point and shoot. And when they are not happy with their pictures, they upgrade their camera and buy more expensive lenses :sad:

hmmm - why so bitter?

 

[Shivam]

hmmm - why so bitter?

I am not sure about him but I feel bitter too. My reason maybe an element of jealousy combined with frustration at the flood of below par photos on social media sites and web albums.

My height of frustration was when I saw a person using Nikon D3X in a market in Delhi in the evening. This person used a flash and auto mode and was trying to capture a night shot of the way the buildings were illuminated.

It's like having the money to buy a Linn top of the line DS player and dCS or some similar DAC with high end tube amps and then listening to the system on cheap plastic computer speakers and playing highly compressed slow rate mp3.

 

[omishra]

For people looking at starting photography, please go through this basics. Camera does not matters for this art of representation though better tools are always matters for good results.
Go through all lessons and let me know.

Jodie Coston lessons

 

[anm]

I am not sure about him but I feel bitter too. My reason maybe an element of jealousy combined with frustration at the flood of below par photos on social media sites and web albums.

My height of frustration was when I saw a person using Nikon D3X in a market in Delhi in the evening. This person used a flash and auto mode and was trying to capture a night shot of the way the buildings were illuminated.

It's like having the money to buy a Linn top of the line DS player and dCS or some similar DAC with high end tube amps and then listening to the system on cheap plastic computer speakers and playing highly compressed slow rate mp3.

Arguments just for the sake of fun. I am also on the jealous side at time - and at both ends - some people know so much about photography that they can shoot a masterpiece with even a mediocre camera, and some can afford the most expensive camera, and some can do both! I am in neither extremes - money wise or skill wise.

So giving a benefit of doubt to those who can afford, and are told that D3X is the best camera:

flash is switched on automatically on auto mode. I too struggled (still struggling due to lack of focus and time) with my dslr. Only thing could be that he started up a little higher. I am sure he will figure out no flash mode and auto modes in due course of time.
Some other off topic example - I want to buy a decently powerful car, but I do not drive at 150km/hr which some people drive their marutis at. I can not even do basic tasks like refilling engine oil or change brake pads etc, but because of that, should I not buy a good car and buy the worst out there?
BTW, on mathura road, I see showrooms of rolls royace, and trucks carrying the most funky sports cars that I can only see in screensavers. Are these guys participating in F1? Where are the roads to drive such cars, except on roll roads? But then some can afford it.

 

[Shivam]

That person with D3X was using an external flash mounted on the camera !!!

 

[ajay124]

hmmm - why so bitter?

anm

No bitterness at all. In fact it is a little funny. Life can appear bitter or comic depending upon how you look at it through the viewfinder

Recently I met a successful wedding photographer (with a D800 and 24-70 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8 lenses) who had no idea about how to shoot a pic in any of the PSAM modes. He was candid enough to admit that the latest FX cameras and gold ring lenses are required for impressing customers and not for shooting what he termed as 'artistic' pictures. He added that for shooting a wedding one needs speed and stamina rather than finesse or artistry. The 'artistry' department is handled by the guys who edit the pictures with Photoshop.

 

[ajay124]

There were two reasons why I chose a D90 over a D7000. The D90 was available for 37K (body only) while the D7000 was for 52K (body only). I viewed both as transition cameras as eventually I wanted to move to a full frame. I thought it made sense to spend less for the moment. But a bigger reason was the negative feedback about D7000, which was doing the rounds on the internet. There were several reports about particular lots of D7000's suffering from issues related to focusing and oil spills on the sensor. The problems seem to be with a few cameras only as D7000 has been a best seller for Nikon. Partly because of natural calamities in Japan and Thailand, but primarily because of huge demand, it is still difficult to source a D7000.

Recently I read reports about some users of D800 facing issues related to freezing up of the camera and focusing problems with the focus points on the left. D800 has been another bestseller for Nikon and most customers who pre ordered (or ordered after the launch) have had to endure a long waiting period before they could get their hands on it. Nikon cranked up prices for both the D4 and D800 virtually a couple of days after the launch. For a long time Nikon has been happily ensconced in a sweet spot where demand for their latest DSLR's far outstrips the supply from their factories in Japan and Thailand. Nikon loyalists are eagerly waiting for D400 (D300S replacement) and D600 (Nikon's rumored 1500$ FX camera). I too am waiting (patiently) for both. Eventually if they are released, I still intend to wait for another 6 months until the early users have posted their experiences of using these cameras. I think I would prefer buying a camera with the tried and tested Multi-Cam 51 point AF system of D700/D300S, rather than one which uses the relatively less tested AF systems of D7000 or D800. Until then my D90 is doing a great job

The Missing Nikon D800/D800E Press Release

Nikon D800 / D800E Asymmetric Focus Issue

Re: D7000 "Issues": Nikon D90 - D40 / D7000 - D3000 Forum: Digital Photography Review

 

[ajay124]

Apart from new DSLR's like D800, D4 and D3200, Nikon has also launched some interesting new lenses in 2012.

DX format

Nikon 18-300mm VR Review

FX format

Nikkor AF-S 28mm f/1.8 G (FX) - Review / Test Report

Nikon announces AF-S Nikkor 24-85mm F3.5-4.5G ED VR affordable full-frame lens: Digital Photography Review

 

[ajay124]

shivam/others

A specific question about spot metering on D90/D300S/D7000. I intend to dip into the D90 manual but I can save myself the trouble if somebody is able to answer the question.

Does a Nikon D90 spot meter only from a point in the middle of the viewfinder, or is it's spot metering linked to the focusing point? In other words, will the spot metering point move when the focusing point is moved?

Based on the pics I took day a couple of days ago (when I was trying my hand at spot metering in a park) I feel the spot metering point does shift when you shift the focusing point. If this is true then it would be a big relief for me as I don't use the central focusing point very often. To some extent the very purpose of the 11,39,51 point AF systems would be defeated, if spot metering was only available from the centre of the viewfinder.

 

[Shivam]

D90 uses the sensor for measuring (for spot metering) from the focusing point chosen. When you change the focusing point, the spot metering sensor also changes.

In center weighted metering the percentage for the central area's exposure (brightness) and peripheries doesn't change with change in focusing point.

 

[ajay124]

shivam

D90 provides the option of choosing 6mm, 8 mm and 10mm for centre weighted metering. While composing a shot how does one get to know the precise area in the viewfinder from which the camera is metering ? For example, if I select 6mm and I feel the area from which the camera is metering a particular shot is too small, then perhaps I could broaden the metering area by switching to the 8 or 10 mm option.

Would the centre weighted area from which the camera meters also be dependent upon the focal length of the lens and the aperture being used? For example if I am using a 50mm prime and select f/2 as the aperture, would this selection also have a bearing on the centre weighted area?

 

[Shivam]

In center-weighted metering, the exposure is calculated by giving about 70-80% value to the center and then tapering it off to the peripheries. The central area should be set to the maximum size your camera supports, since for smaller areas you can anytime switch to spot metering.

In F5, I used to set 20mm area for center-weighted metering though I doubt that anyone ever used this metering mode on the F5. This 20mm area was slightly larger than the autofocus points adjacent to the central focusing area in the F5 focusing screen.

The exposure in center-weighted metering and spot metering is not affected by the change in focal length, focusing distance in the same way as in evaluative metering (matrix). Evaluative metering considers all these factors too.

 

[Shivam]

Now I recall the days when I had a Nikon FM2 body with prime manual lenses. The film rolls were expensive and development and printing of those rolls used to bring a smile. That feeling reduced a little but with the more advanced Nikon bodies and totally disappeared with the digital bodies. The smile used to come from the effort put into the making of the shot.

I feel that when you are experimenting with the various metering modes and many other similar things, you too must be getting the same happy feeling. Similar feeling can also be had once you buy a camera body or a lens which you might be longing for many years.

 

[ajay124]

shivam

"The smile used to come from the effort put into the making of the shot"

YES! Photography makes me happy. It has become a solitary passion. A passion which began in mid January, 2012. Solitary, because apart from a few virtual friends on flickr and hifivision, there is no one to share it with, except my wife.

Signing off with a quote which I coined a couple of days ago and which I intend to make my photography mantra

"A perfect exposure does not require photo editing crutches!"

 

[ajay124]

"A perfect exposure does not require photo editing crutches!"

The ability of Photoshop to take our mediocre pics and make them stand up and POP is undeniable. One can easily fall into a syndrome where one spends far more time editing pictures, than in actually shooting them. A little bit of pain endured before the shot can prevent a lot of pain which goes into 'fixing' the shot with Photoshop. With digital cameras it is essential to have a little bit of knowledge about photo editing softwares, but we should be clear in our minds that in order to improve our photography skills, what happens before the shot is far more important than what happens afterwards.

Once we go beyond point and shooting in the auto mode, we start peeking frequently at the LCD screen to check what kind of exposures and colors we are capturing. But this method does not work very well in broad daylight. Even on the relatively high resolution LCD screen of my D90 it is difficult to judge shadows, highlights and mid tones while shooting in the summer sun. Most DSLR's are equipped with a histogram and being able to 'read' it will provide a better indication of the exposure and whether one needs to adjust the camera settings.

Understanding Histograms

Understanding Digital Camera Histograms: Tones and Contrast

 

[Shivam]

My use for post-processing (editing the raw files on comp and then creating jpg) is limited to mostly correcting lens distortions like spherical distortions and chromatic distortions and sometimes when a girl otherwise beautiful wants a couple of spots removed from the skin.

Exposure, daylight balance ( a luxury for digital photographers ), the exact item captured in the frame ( not cropping or joining photos later ), color-space etc should all be chosen before pressing the shutter release button. It being the right practice also saves a lot of time later on.