Think I finally got it figured!

why isnt anyone talking about finding the missing piece and aralditing it together?

PS: araldite is better than superglue in my experience

Wow!! but it would suggest that its better to go for a replacement. It is a painful process but a more rewarding one as the deck will be restored to its original conditiion. It may be difficult but its not impossible to find spares. I have traced down some rare spare parts for un-common decks like a Grundig CF5500 with great success.
 
... and now I need to try and find a replacement of the same size. It would be a massive help if some one could help me to source or get another wheel made in the same size. Ive been really struggling to get this fixed and Im not ready to give up till I see this player sing again! Your help and advice would be extremely valuable! Best regards!

If you're having trouble getting a replacement, try and see if there are any 3D printing services in your city, or if you know someone who has a 3D printer. Look for prototype making services also.

This may sound far out, but a friend here got a similar issue (not hifi related) sorted this way. He did have someone who could do him a favor, though. They charge by the hour and a small item like this should not take too long to print. You will need to get a 3D drawing of the gear made, or get a 3D scan done. This will also be a cost head. Since you have the original gear with you, this is easier than it sounds.
 
Thanks for all the details guys. I will shortly let you know of what happens...Cheers!

In relation to searching for rare spares, I am reminded by a quote from the Holy Bible - "Seek and Thou shall Find"

All the very best for the hunt and take us along on the journey.
 
Why not source another CR-2A from ebay? That way, you won't have to worry about spares. I have seen CR-2A's go as low as $50.
 
Why not source another CR-2A from ebay? That way, you won't have to worry about spares. I have seen CR-2A's go as low as $50.

Great idea provided you can get someone to carry it down for you.

What I have done in the past is to locate a similar model, being sold in non-working condition for spare parts salvage, on ebay. I would then get in touch with the seller and ask whether he can send only the particular part or board with the part. Most sellers may not have the competance to do this or may not want to do this, but you have to keep trying.

By this way, I was able to keep shipping costs under control and also reduce the possibility of having to hoard stuff that I may not need.
 
Willy herman.jpg

Gentleman, It's a beautiful day today! I have recieved my gear from none other than the legendary Willy Herman who was kind enough to send me this gear ! I was really anxious whether it would reach me safely and Lo! it reached me safe and sound! I can't thank Willy enough for it!
 
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Hey guys thank all so much for your reccomendations and help and advice!I have finally recieved my deck and it's playing perfectly well. I also got my denon deck serviced. Just played both and felt the Nak cr1 was a Lot more bassy(or muffled?) as compared the Denon deck. Back when I first played it (just for one day before it went kaput) I didnt notice the bassy sound and felt it was crystal clear (but I didnt have much time to compare, or maybe my ears have got used to the Denon deck). was wondering if this what any of you'll folks also feel or Im wondering if anything has been changed. Maybe I will play a sample of both decks and upload a pic of the Nak head. Hopefully some one can tell me if the head is the same as the original Nak.
 
From the symptoms, looks like the azimuth of your play head needs calibtation but that is only if your deck's pinch roller is in good shape. Not sure what exactly you mean by tape-eating but assume you hear a squeezing sound when the deck gets past the leader and the tape hits the pinch roller. When you hear the squeeze, you check the tape and it appears folded or crushed at the lower or upper end? If this is the case, then its your pinch roller. When the pinch roller wears out, it moves the tape upwards or downwards (depending on the wear) on the capstan, resulting in muffled sound and chewing. Also, if the pinch roller is worn, it may move the tape running past it, slightly off position on the capstan which will result in muffled sound. Does this happen for all cassettes or only specific ones? Try out thicket tape like a C60 and compare it to thinner tape like a C90. The thinner the tape, the more pronounced the roller related issues.

Make a start by properly cleaning the pinch roller and capstan. The pinch roller should not appear smooth but don't try to rub it and roughen it if its smooth. If its smooth, it would mean that its worn and needs a change.

If its not the pinch roller, then the azimuth would need calibration.
 
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Hi guys, theyve fixed a new pinch roller and have aligned the head also. Plays perfect now...but lets see for how long. :D
 
Im still wondering if the alignment has been done properly and whether the sound could be further tweaked? Any thumb rule to get the perfect alignment?
 
When it comes to cassette decks, there are several alignments that constitute a good sounding deck. A key one is the azimuth alignment of the head assembly. This can be done using a Nak alignment tape. If you don't have one of these, then you can use a reliable and well recorded tape but I would like to warn you that this is not the correct method. If you use this method, then there is a possibility that the alignment may be completely lost and you may have to keep adjusting the azimuth for each and every tape that you play :(
 
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The second method:P
An authorized service centre, or a good specialist might have alignment tapes, but I recall nakamichi alignment was a bit non standard, and needed Nakamichi calibration tapes
 
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