What New Sound Card?

Audiolab 9000N
Hah... sample rates... can I join in? :)

I was storing my files from vinyl in 44100/16, because hey, that's what a CD is, so why go higher?

Then I read the CoolEdit book, and it says that, regardless of what you eventually want, to always record at 4800/32 bit. In fact, it says to convert to that while editing or working with effects.

So, how does this work? If I tell CoolEdit, when I create a new file, that it should be 4800/32, what is happening between the software and the card? Is the software telling the card to deliver 32-bit data?



By the way, my reaction to the digitised results, so far, is one of slight diapointment, as switching between sound card in and sound card out (using the mixer's monitor switch) there seems to be a noticable loss of high-frequency detail in stuff like tinkley percussion. My music lost its tinkle!
 
cranky said:
From that post
Click to expand...

I hate to sound dense:). But see I use ASIO drivers. Either true or faked in the form of ASIO4ALL. When I use the hardware ASIO drivers that came with the card, does that mean that I should not set any software resampling?

Also this dual redundant resampling - is it worth anything at all? Why should I use SOX resampling to take the signal to say 48khz when the sound card control panel too upsamples it to 48khz?

I just want to ensure that I am not doing something unnecessary.
 
Thad E Ginathom said:
Hah... sample rates... can I join in? :)

I was storing my files from vinyl in 44100/16, because hey, that's what a CD is, so why go higher?

Then I read the CoolEdit book, and it says that, regardless of what you eventually want, to always record at 4800/32 bit. In fact, it says to convert to that while editing or working with effects.

So, how does this work? If I tell CoolEdit, when I create a new file, that it should be 4800/32, what is happening between the software and the card? Is the software telling the card to deliver 32-bit data?



By the way, my reaction to the digitised results, so far, is one of slight diapointment, as switching between sound card in and sound card out (using the mixer's monitor switch) there seems to be a noticable loss of high-frequency detail in stuff like tinkley percussion. My music lost its tinkle!
Click to expand...

Hai thad,

I think there is a problem with your sound card. I have done vinyl conversions even with Realtek Onboard Sound, the results have been good. Now I am using Creative Audigy S.card, the results are slightly better.

But you try writing the Wave to CD and then play thro CDP & AMP that will give a clear picture of the recording quality.

Just my 2 cents.

By the way I want to compare the conversion quality you do, and I have done, when time permits.

N.Murali
 
You'd be welcome! What you using as the phono pre-amp?

If you read through this saga-of-my-soundcard thread, you'll see it was by chance that I realised that my mixer, in storage for four years, had the phono pre-amp, so I was prompted to get on with the job. Otherwise, an external USB/Firewire 'card', or a dedicated USB phono pre-amp was on the shopping list.

Writing to a CD and playing on the hifi is a good idea.

Over all these years, the deck has been in storage as well, so I haven't heard these records for a long time.

I should shift the amplifier over to the computer, to know what happens when using a hi-fi phono stage. Bit of a pain, as it has odd speaker connections, and I couldn't just connect the PC speakers to it. Would worry about destroying it if I run it without speakers, even with a headphones connected (???)
 
Hi Thad,

I use either my NORGE 2060 or PULZ-RS-180 DC Intg amp to connect my TT. The line-out is fed to my Sound card ( Creative Audigy). I monitor thro my PC speakers (Philips). I use SONY SoundForge 9.0 or Audacity for recording. After sampling, the wave is saved ,Click and Crackle are removed , wave is cropped into tracks in SF and then I normalise the tracks. I write the waves to CD using Neroburner. For testing I have the set-up as given in my signature.

I suggested to write to CD because we can compare the Vinyl sound and CD sound in parallel and correct the process to near perfect. Because some Click and Crackle removal program tend to eat away the HF region in the music.

I recommend that you give a Wash for your LPs using Iso-propyl alcohol followed by liquid wash soap with a soft gentle brush. Pl refer to some earlier threads on this as it will be helpful to you. Also by avoiding the clicks the job of editing becomes very easy . And the music also sounds much richer with less c&c.


N.Murali
 
Woa!

That is a much more serious approach than I am taking currently!

But I'm learning as I go along: I had decided not to clean up the gaps between the songs, keeping the "vinyl feel". Listening on headphones last night to one album, I know now that was a mistake.
 
Hi Murali
the wave is saved ,Click and Crackle are removed ,
Click to expand...
Pl. tell me how do you go about removing clicks and crackle.
here is what I do...
There is always a chance of loosing some part of music while cleaning clicks and pops or noise if not done properly. If software has option to 'keep' noise/clicks/pop and remove "music' part I do it on small sample. Playback that sample at higher volume. listen to it if it has some music. If it does, I have heavlly removed noise/clicks/pop. I undo everything and start with less threshold. I think a little clicks and noise is better than removing music part. :)
(Sorry everyone to side step the thread)
 
Last edited:
Hai,

I have Digitized more than 50 LPs till date ( some full and some in parts). While using the click and crackle removal feature care has to be taken. I have used the following softwares:
Audacity
Spin it again
Click repair
SONY Sound Forge 9.0

Audacity is not good at this job.
Spin it again is quite good.
Click repair is good, but it tends to eat away some HF part so beware.
SONY Soundforge is a breeze to work with, it removes both the LF rumbles alongwith C&C, you can also compare the pre and post removal sound side by side by using the bye-pass checkbox.

But for all the above there is no standard setting and we will have to make a trial and error method. My recommendation is to preserve the uncleaned wave files, so that in future, if you get a better software it can be used.

If the Vinyl is having some dust and spots , pl clean as I have suggested in my earlier post, see the results for your self. Your job of tweaking the click and crackle settings will get enormously reduced and the final sound will be very good.


@ Hiten : Normally I apply c&c removal for a complete side (say 20 mts of music) , if situation warrants I do it for each song . I preview the sound and finalise.

N.Murali
 
Last edited:
(Sorry everyone to side step the thread)
Click to expand...
... not at all, the focus of the thread has just shifted slightly :)

For a start, I am not touching anything that I don't find irritating, and that really means scratches in quiet passages or silence. It may well be impossible to get rid of them altogether, as that is the sound recorded at that point, but, at least, the level can be cut back to the level that the music would have been at that point. I find the software (CEPro) to be very clever at this. I do not process long passages, but take individual clicks. The few albums I've done so far have been in good condition, and this has been minimal.

<cross-posted with Murali and Spirovirus>
 
Do the CD rip have the same transients and dynamics and overall SQ as the LP? Whats your experience?

Regards
 
Hi HTPC fans!

Check this one from Asus and pls render your reviews.

SNDASUXNRHDD.jpg


ASUSTeK Computer Inc.
 
Last edited:
Back to the title of the thread!

Well, bit by bit, it is going to be a new PC. I'm getting system crashes like I never saw since W2000 hit the streets --- and not BSODs, either, just quick death, so I'm not blaming Microsoft this time.

I'm off to Singapore very shortly, and, of course, I'm going shopping.

Pertinent to this thread, my decision on the PC Sound interface, after a lot of chopping and changing is...

(dramatically opens golden envelope and removes card...) ... Echo Digital Audiofire 2.

--- It is relatively simple, 2-in/2-out analogue, although digital SPDIF & MIDI is there too. No stuff like mic or instrument input; if I need to do that, I have a small mixer already.

--- Not PCI, so no interrupt problems. Not USB, but firewire, for better data streaming.

Current motherboard doesn't have firewire. I'll buy a board for now. It's on the requirements list for the next MOBO.

Any hint on place to buy Echo Audio in Singapore? If not, I guess I should call their distributor.


Also after much to-ing anf fro-ing, I expect to be bringing a pair of M-Audio AV40 home with me. That's a compromise after having previously decided on something more expensive.

The rest of he new PC I intend to buy locally. I don't want to carry a large, fragile motherboard home, or to have too much electronics in the bag going through customs.
 
Thad E Ginathom said:
Back to the title of the thread!

Well, bit by bit, it is going to be a new PC. I'm getting system crashes like I never saw since W2000 hit the streets --- and not BSODs, either, just quick death, so I'm not blaming Microsoft this time.

I'm off to Singapore very shortly, and, of course, I'm going shopping.

Pertinent to this thread, my decision on the PC Sound interface, after a lot of chopping and changing is...

(dramatically opens golden envelope and removes card...) ... Echo Digital Audiofire 2.

--- It is relatively simple, 2-in/2-out analogue, although digital SPDIF & MIDI is there too. No stuff like mic or instrument input; if I need to do that, I have a small mixer already.

--- Not PCI, so no interrupt problems. Not USB, but firewire, for better data streaming.

Current motherboard doesn't have firewire. I'll buy a board for now. It's on the requirements list for the next MOBO.

Any hint on place to buy Echo Audio in Singapore? If not, I guess I should call their distributor.


Also after much to-ing anf fro-ing, I expect to be bringing a pair of M-Audio AV40 home with me. That's a compromise after having previously decided on something more expensive.

The rest of he new PC I intend to buy locally. I don't want to carry a large, fragile motherboard home, or to have too much electronics in the bag going through customs.
Click to expand...


Curious - Why a recording device and not a plain soundcard or a DAC?

Regards
 
--- I'm regarding this as equivalent to a "plain soundcard" but external.

--- I will want ADC as well as DAC; I will record from external sources.

Even the DacMagic was one of the last thing to cross my mind, but it is does DAC, not ADC, so quickly discounted.
 
Thad E Ginathom said:
--- I'm regarding this as equivalent to a "plain soundcard" but external.

--- I will want ADC as well as DAC; I will record from external sources.

Even the DacMagic was one of the last thing to cross my mind, but it is does DAC, not ADC, so quickly discounted.
Click to expand...

can u discuss the reasons for u to rule out ESI Juli@, as that card also has good ADC..
 
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