trittya
Active Member
With that criteria, I would prefer an EL34/EL84/2A3 based SE amp, even better if class A.
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Single-ended topology always operates in Class A
Class A operation can be implemented in a single-ended or push-pull topology
Push-pull topology can be operated in Class A or Class B
Class B operation is only implemented by a push-pull topology
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A Survey Of Amplifier Types (TAS 217) | The Absolute Sound
Here's what the much acclaimed and widely experienced audio Guru, Mr Thorsten Loesch had to stay in response to the above link on our 950 strong facebook group here
https://www.facebook.com/groups/diy.custom.hifi/
(Copied and pasted for the benefit of all FMs following this thread )
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Thorsten Loesch - There are some problems in the definitions
Ignoring SE for the moment (it can only work in Class A) and pure Class B (in some ways it is way worse than class D),the only true choices for high quality amplifiers are Class A or Class A/B.
Given that for example a 50W @ 8 Ohm Class A Amplifier that should drive Speakers down to 2 Ohm in Class A for 50W we would need 3.5A quiescent current, which for 30W rails (50W/8R) would translate into 210W power dissipation, few so-called Class A Amplifiers idle at even a fraction of this and often are rated for more than noted 50W.
So, in reality ALL Push-Pull Solid State Amplifiers (and actually pretty much all Push-Pull Tube Amplifiers meaning most of both genre's) that do not run in pure Class B (for quality audio this basically non) also do not really run in pure Class A but transition from Class A to Class B at some power level into some load.
My own EL34 Push-Pull Amp (custom design) delivers around 25W into matched impedance in Class A and 35W in Class (A)B. This is an extreme example towards a"Class A" Amplifier.
On the opposite side, a china made amplifier advertised as "80W/PC Class A" upon actual investigation is revealed to offer 8W/8Ohm and 4W/4Ohm Class A power the rest is in Class (A)B.
More extreme, a Douglas Self "Blameless" Class AB Amplifier delivers only 0.27W/8Ohm and 0.135W/4Ohm in Class A.
Once the output stage exits true class A operation two things happen.
First, a range of distortion mechanisms usually lumped together as "crossover distortion" start distorting the signal much more than during Class A operation. A competent designer may "hedge" against these using a wide range of techniques.
Secondly,the current draw of the amplifier becomes signal dependent (in Class A this is generally not the case) which causes all sorts of fun and games in the power supplies which again may lead to increased distortion (especially of the "wrong" kind).
So what matters most is not what is claimed, but what really happens.
With an amplifier that offers 80W maximum output and 8W in class A combined with a speaker having an efficiency meaning the amplifier is rarely driven to clipping, this means anything 10dB or more below clipping is class A, usually only short peaks will leave class A, with most of the "average power" of the music being delivered in Class A.
In my books this is "generally good enough" to not notice the excursions into Class B, so such an amplifier delivers the sonic benefits of a Class A Amplifer with music most of the time, without having to burn silly levels of power.
With an Amplifier that delivers 80W before clipping but only 0.27W in Class A and using the same loudspeaker as before the amplifier exist Class A 24dB below clipping, so the transtition happens smack bang in the middle of where most of the interesting stuff in music happens.
So, two amplifiers both actually Class AB played with music will show very different audibility of any Class B artefacts.
Upshot, running amplifiers hot helps, but true Class A may be overrated and using design techniques that remove some of the crossover distortion mechanisms can help to reduce heat waste and deliver as good or even better sound in Class AB with minimal Class A power than Class A monsters with very high Class A power.
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