Best sealed subwoofer for the money

As a DIY exercise, I had made a sealed Subwoofer using a 10" woofer and 20 mm thick MDF board. An amp for the sub was made separately. The total cost was less than Rs.2500.00 and it has been doing a fairly decent job.
 
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OK I placed the order for a REL T3 today. The more I read the more I was convinced it was exactly what I needed. After all I was not looking for an HT sub.

After literally "deep sea" trawling the net for T3 reviews (there are almost none) I started looking at reviews of earlier models like Quake along with those of some higher end models. The more I read, the more confident I was that this T3 would fit my needs perfectly. So much that I did not bother researching other models or auditioning them. :clapping:

Now the naada is totally undone and I will not be able to tie it back again ... if you see a little red devil with two horns and a tail streaking across a Bengaluru traffic jam (or causing it) just look the other wayand pretend you don't know me. :ohyeah: :D

--G0bble
 
OK I placed the order for a REL T3 today. The more I read the more I was convinced it was exactly what I needed. After all I was not looking for an HT sub.

After literally "deep sea" trawling the net for T3 reviews (there are almost none) I started looking at reviews of earlier models like Quake along with those of some higher end models. The more I read, the more confident I was that this T3 would fit my needs perfectly. So much that I did not bother researching other models or auditioning them. :clapping:

Now the naada is totally undone and I will not be able to tie it back again ... if you see a little red devil with two horns and a tail streaking across a Bengaluru traffic jam (or causing it) just look the other wayand pretend you don't know me. :ohyeah: :D

--G0bble
Congratulations! I dont think you can go wrong with REL - one of the few companies that specialize in sub woofers. Interestingly REL's entry level have either passive radiators or no ports whereas the higher end models have a port!

Would you mind giving us the low down on relative pricing and ordering info? I know you said the T3 costs less than 40k which I presuming to mean close to 40k. But if you have knowledge of the relative pricing of the different lines, that would be great.
 
I got it from the local dealer. Shipping the best bargain from BK ELec in UK would have saved me only 3 to 5K.

The T3 was quoted for 44.9k, the T1 for 65.9K and The R-218 for 75.9K.

The T5 I got for 36.8K with some very polite haggling. :licklips: I am usually not the bargaining types once I decide what I want I just take it at whatever ... :indifferent14: But the original price has to tempt me first.

Will post a view and re-view once I set it up by this weekend.

--G0bble
 
Congrats,Gobble! Do post a review with pictures of your setup, will make an interesting read with lots of humor:lol: You have a knacky art of describing your feelings.

--
helium
SB Classic> Beresford DAC 7510 MK4> Lyrita SET 2A3 + PMC TB2/ Vintage highly modified B&W DM4 > Lyrita ICs + Cables => MUSIC
 
After literally "deep sea" trawling the net for T3 reviews (there are almost none) I started looking at reviews of earlier models like Quake along with those of some higher end models. The more I read, the more confident I was that this T3 would fit my needs perfectly. So much that I did not bother researching other models or auditioning them. :clapping:

Congrats,now you can be 1st user to write the review on HFV.:clapping:
 
Congrats Gobble, Nice to know the SUB comes with railing support . Good elevation and proper space to release the low bass waves.

What finish did u order ?
 
Thanks Guys.

Black. Unfortunately its glossy black that leaves fingerprints. My speakers are matt black and that would have matched better, I guess SQ is more important than looks.

--G0bble
 
The quest for sealed subs(including ones with passive radiators) has produced the following shortlist:

1. Wharfedale - SW250 and up
2. Definitive Super cube I or II
3. The REL T3 at ~40k
4. ML Dynamo 700

I do not need any introduction to the Dynamo. The REL surely has to be a contender if expensive, will wait for Gobble's report.

Wharfedale is probably the cheapest here and with the least cachet. Need to do some some research online, but owner's views here would be welcome.
 
OK I placed the order for a REL T3 today. The more I read the more I was convinced it was exactly what I needed. After all I was not looking for an HT sub.

After literally "deep sea" trawling the net for T3 reviews (there are almost none) I started looking at reviews of earlier models like Quake along with those of some higher end models. The more I read, the more confident I was that this T3 would fit my needs perfectly. So much that I did not bother researching other models or auditioning them. :clapping:

Now the naada is totally undone and I will not be able to tie it back again ... if you see a little red devil with two horns and a tail streaking across a Bengaluru traffic jam (or causing it) just look the other wayand pretend you don't know me. :ohyeah: :D

--G0bble


I got it from the local dealer. Shipping the best bargain from BK ELec in UK would have saved me only 3 to 5K.

The T3 was quoted for 44.9k, the T1 for 65.9K and The R-218 for 75.9K.

The T5 I got for 36.8K with some very polite haggling. :licklips: I am usually not the bargaining types once I decide what I want I just take it at whatever ... :indifferent14: But the original price has to tempt me first.

Will post a view and re-view once I set it up by this weekend.

--G0bble

Congratulations! so what did you finally get? T3 or T5? How was the auditioning?
 
Hifiashok said:
I am going the custom sub direction to go with my ESL Hybrid. Since I want to run both chains (b4 & after) by choice, the only option seems to go for an active x'over to feed the two requirements (in one of the chains). Mid and hi into my present amps to the ESL Hybrids and lo to the sub amp.

Just another way of looking at it, what you need is a pre with two outputs, not necessarily an active cross over. I would imagine you are planning to run the ESL hybrids full range.

No, so the need for an active, so only relevant frequencies are fed to the respective LSs.

However an active cross over is another way of getting there. Are you seeking an analog crossover such as the one Marchand sells in kit form or a digital one such as the DCX2496(that I had bought during the heyday of my open baffle experiments). Modelling the cross over even with something as flexible as the DCX2496 requires the patience of a saint.

Just my 2 cents but the pre with 2 outputs would give you greater flexiblity in setting the lowpass using the active-sub's cross over.

On a related note, going low is one thing, integrating with the mains for a smooth frequency response is another story. In my experience, I could get somewhere with massive amounts of room damping and the DEQ2496 which I use even now in my current system( I am a believer in room equalization). Placing the sub slightly forward in between main speakers seems to help with the integration as well.

Getting the ESL hybrids AND the sub doing similar frequencies in the lower end may lead to avoidable overlaps.
 
The quest for sealed subs(including ones with passive radiators) has produced the following shortlist:

A sub with PR is, for all practical purposes, a ported sub. A PR is used instead of a port when you want a smaller size than a regular ported sub. All the other pros and cons remain the same.
 
A sub with PR is, for all practical purposes, a ported sub. A PR is used instead of a port when you want a smaller size than a regular ported sub. All the other pros and cons remain the same.

Interestingly as pointed out in an earlier post, all the REL higher end audiophile models use PRs and the cheapest ones are sealed!

Wonder what their justification is ...

--G0bble
 
Interestingly as pointed out in an earlier post, all the REL higher end audiophile models use PRs and the cheapest ones are sealed!

Wonder what their justification is ...

--G0bble

I am surprised too. I thought that the sealed subs do a better job in the music department compared to the ported ones. My strata III which does awesome in music room. Also my fronts go very low and by crossing over very low I am able to integrated it well with my fronts. Difference between with sub and without sub is the big drum.

Also Bass treatment is very important if you want to listen to low notes. After I did my bass treatment to the room, I am able to here the Big drum much better and cleaner. The booominess is gone.

Here is teh link which I found while researching on the net for ported ones to the sealed ones.

Sealed vs. Ported Enclosures | Klaus Audio
 
Wharfedale Linton Heritage Speakers in Walnut finish at a Special Offer Price. BUY now before the price increase.
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