Cassette Deck 1: Part 2, Calibration

kumarab

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Jul 30, 2011
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Delhi
I figured it had had enough time to settle. Checked the speed again, and it had drifted to about 3170 (expected). Adjusted it accordingly. Height, azimuth, pb levels were all set with HPR tapes. I transplanted the azimuth, FR and height tapes into XLII-S, Sony UX and BasF ChromDioxid shells respectively.

Set Azimuth with a careful back and forth between the 10k az tape and the FR tape (15 and 18k). Took more time than it should, coz I had to go back to the height tape every time. But it was worth the effort.

My blank stock consists of a variety of brands, from different eras. Plus, the CD1 does not have an external RecLvl cal knob, so I biased (internal) it for the 95-98 TDK D and the level was set for the 80s TDK D. This matches quite nicely with my Sony and BasF Type 1s. The modern TDK D has a higher recorded level, but I don't uses Dolby, so that's not a problem.

For Type 2, I set the bias and lvl for early 2000s XLII-S. This works quite nicely with XLII and UDII, with only slight variations in levels, and a slight anti clockwise turn of the fine bias for the older cassettes.

For Type IV, the only one I had at hand was a TDK MA, so that's what everything is set for. Happy to report that it's laying down 21khz on a TDK D almost flat, and 22khz at around -3db (-20db).

P.S.- No gauges or original Nak tapes here, so I didn't mess with the tilt or torque etc. Works great, and the tapes translate well to my two other decks so that is it. Done for now.

Regards
Kumar
 

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The small head amp board at the back of the mechanism you can replace the electrolytic capacitors there, they are prone to failure and erode traces once the damage is done. I had fixed a DR1 that had pcb traces eroded due to the same, and this seems to be a common problem in CD1 and DR1. Lots of info in tapeheads as well.
For head tilt adjustment you can get the WHS gauge from Willy.
 
The small head amp board at the back of the mechanism you can replace the electrolytic capacitors there, they are prone to failure and erode traces once the damage is done. I had fixed a DR1 that had pcb traces eroded due to the same, and this seems to be a common problem in CD1 and DR1. Lots of info in tapeheads as well.
Hi, thanks. I changed the caps long ago, although they had no problem as such. Also upped the voltage and changed two of them to 470uf. Thankfully, my CD1 internals (both the pb amp and the main board) are very clean. Not even flux marks, let alone erosion.
 
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