Dedicated home theatre

[rajesh srinivas]

hi
everyone...!
This is Saravanan from Chennai. After a small survey and research about AVR's I found and I settle with Denon AVR-X1200 7.2 Channel Full 4K Ultra HD A/V Receiver with Bluetooth and Wi-Fi and pair with Q Acoustics 2000i series 5.1 speakers but it seems the price tag is above my budget. Hence I thought of going for some other low budget speaker without compromising the Quality. Then I found Boston XS 5.1 home theater speakers where i can get it for around 22k from Snapdeal and ebay. But my concern is whether Boston surround sound speakers withstand the output that comes from Denon 1200. I couldn't find any exact specifications that shows the max power input for these speakers. Hence I request if any one can provide me a proper solution or if my choice is wrong then let me know the best cost effective speakers that suits for Denon 1200.

Hope someone will provide me the solution for my query

Thanks.

This is not a place to post your query which totally deviates from my subject,you can create a seperate thread for your queries.

Hope moderator will delete this from my thread.

thanks
r/s.


MODERATOR NOTE: this post has been moved to speakers titled "speakers for denon 1200"

 

[rajesh srinivas]

I do not know the source & price in India. Start with the contractor of HVAC systems for insulation material. They would have it way cheaper. Same material will be sold by acoustic cos at a huge margin.

As for 6" thick broadband bass trap, it will absorb down to 560 hz or so. If you leave an air gap of 6" behind it, then it will be around 280 hz. It can absorb some of the energy from frequencies below that, but not all.
You can do this calculations yourself.
Absorption thickness (in ft) =0.25(1130/frequency)

As you say the 6" bass traps can absorb upto 280hz,is the other way
as suggested by you (2ft insulation on the back wall),to what freq it can absorb.

my HT room depth can be either 21' or 27' which do you prefer even if baffle wall method is not used????

How about air circulation in my HT room esp..using glass wool wont there be
any pungent smell,how to overcome it esp. if you dont have any doors and windows..

i was thinking of having another door which acts as an exit door which can be kept open in day time for air circulation,can i think of it,or any exhaust fan you recommend??

rajesh

 

[manoj.p]

Rajesh,

2 ft thick insulation will absorb all the energy produced by frequencies upto 141 hz, and about half off 70 Hz. It will still be able to absorb quite a bit of energy upto 30 hz. Leave the insulation in its own plastic packaging. Don't take it out. That way, you wont get any smell or its bits in the air. Audio wise it helps as the high frequencies bounce off the plastic cover and it still sound lively.

You can leave the doors open whenever you arent using the room, especially the door which is connected to the house. If not, windows left open will also help. My theater room is open to the rest of house and we never had any ventilation problem.

 

[manoj.p]

100% true in your saying,now my main concern is to setup the ht room go step by step or else there will be no starting point,when the above issue comes of seating placement etc..then will refer you and manoj..

by next week i should complete the room partition wall breaking for more depth taking into account for future baffle wall setup,side by side box building,then comes wall treatment like putti,paint,false ceiling,etc..long way to go..

thanks
r/s.

Just saw this post. If you are doing false ceiling, do make sure the cavity above the gypsum board is somewhat treated. Otherwise, you will have a giant resonating overhead box.

 

[rajesh srinivas]

Rajesh,

2 ft thick insulation will absorb all the energy produced by frequencies upto 141 hz, and about half off 70 Hz. It will still be able to absorb quite a bit of energy upto 30 hz. Leave the insulation in its own plastic packaging. Don't take it out. That way, you wont get any smell or its bits in the air. Audio wise it helps as the high frequencies bounce off the plastic cover and it still sound lively.

You can leave the doors open whenever you arent using the room, especially the door which is connected to the house. If not, windows left open will also help. My theater room is open to the rest of house and we never had any ventilation problem.

Insulation as you suggested the rockwool batts fluffy type- 24inch thickness have to work out the cost any idea about how much a sq.ft it costs/.i have a door which is exactly at the center of rear wall can we install the insulation leaving the door area.??

Then no need for any bass boom absorbtion for the front walls right..

enclosing picture of right side of ht room showing 2 doors/windows thought of
closing all of them with brick/cement,since it always adviced to have your ht room air tight.





Do you suggest having single door among them as exit which can also act as ventilation for fresh air,this door is open to the backyard,or having the window is better then door,if its suggested then how to acoustically cover the gap of either window or door.

one more help should i go for 27ft room depth or 21ft is sufficient,at present i feel since baffle wall will not be implemented so 21ft is ok,but long run 27ft will work out.

thanks
r.s.

 

[rajesh srinivas]

Just saw this post. If you are doing false ceiling, do make sure the cavity above the gypsum board is somewhat treated. Otherwise, you will have a giant resonating overhead box.

the cavity will be covered with pop or gypsum board like a L shaped box.

r.s

 

[manoj.p]

Insulation as you suggested the rockwool batts fluffy type- 24inch thickness have to work out the cost any idea about how much a sq.ft it costs/.i have a door which is exactly at the center of rear wall can we install the insulation leaving the door area.??

Then no need for any bass boom absorbtion for the front walls right..

enclosing picture of right side of ht room showing 2 doors/windows thought of
closing all of them with brick/cement,since it always adviced to have your ht room air tight.





Do you suggest having single door among them as exit which can also act as ventilation for fresh air,this door is open to the backyard,or having the window is better then door,if its suggested then how to acoustically cover the gap of either window or door.

one more help should i go for 27ft room depth or 21ft is sufficient,at present i feel since baffle wall will not be implemented so 21ft is ok,but long run 27ft will work out.

thanks
r.s.

You can put the insulation on the door, just see that you can still open and close it without issue.

Unless you want to make this room for HT and HT only, I would leave the window and doors there. About window, you can put a snug, tight panel with insulation on one side. The room facing side - make it a rigid one. This way, it still presents a solid face to the room and maintains symmetry with opposite wall. Take the panel out when you feel for fresh air/light. I have a window in my theater room and I have it just covered. No need to do permanent modification. Same thing with Doors. To make them air tight, just put seal all around these. Also make sure those are sturdy solid.

About the back wall - I don't think you have to go more than 21 ft, considering width is only 10 ft or so. Golden ratios - there are so many on the web with different flavors. Does not matter if you do the acoustics right. But if you want to demolish that wall and make the room bigger, then go ahead. I can think of other use of that room, like projection booth, equipment room, media cabinet, small bar or a nice bathroom itself to take a piss without having to leave HT. Your choice.

 

[sdurani]

But if you want to demolish that wall and make the room bigger, then go ahead.

Agreed, from previous posts it seems he really wants to demolish that wall, so he should go ahead and do it just to get it out of his system.

 

[rajesh srinivas]

You can put the insulation on the door, just see that you can still open and close it without issue.

good suggestion.

Unless you want to make this room for HT and HT only, I would leave the window and doors there. About window, you can put a snug, tight panel with insulation on one side. The room facing side - make it a rigid one. This way, it still presents a solid face to the room and maintains symmetry with opposite wall. Take the panel out when you feel for fresh air/light.

Its 101% for HT use only and for nothing else,so no windows which can be used only for ventilation and even pointed out by vinay not to have windows in ht room as in the link below.

http://www.hifivision.com/home-theater/5159-building-my-home-theatre-room-please-guide-me-4.html

But having 1 more door option will be beneficial for the visitor exit and also can be used for cross ventilation,provided air tight.

Same thing with Doors. To make them air tight, just put seal all around these. Also make sure those are sturdy solid.

any diy thread or pictures/videos showing this method of doing.

About the back wall - I don't think you have to go more than 21 ft, considering width is only 10 ft or so. Golden ratios - there are so many on the web with different flavors. Does not matter if you do the acoustics right. But if you want to demolish that wall and make the room bigger, then go ahead. I can think of other use of that room, like projection booth, equipment room, media cabinet, small bar or a nice bathroom itself to take a piss without having to leave HT. Your choice.

You mean 27ft no for HT,will think about it,also to highlight you that my center and mains have wattage of 425w rms per channel plus a 12in sub and if need arises also will think of similar 2nd sub dont you think 21ft room will be small to bear the sound pressure,dont you feel 27ft will be good.???

FOR false ceiling is pop strong to bear the low freq,so as to not to rattle or plywood 1/2in will be good. The false ceiling will be similar to mdharan ht as in pic,but for screen it will be extended upto 4ft,also will have similar screen stage as in pic.

thanks
r/s

 

[rajesh srinivas]

Agreed, from previous posts it seems he really wants to demolish that wall, so he should go ahead and do it just to get it out of his system.

Its not about blindly making up ones mind to break the wall,we have to see the advantages in doing so.which depth goes well or carries more weightage.

since again to highlight you HT room is worth building for once,with its complete setup,gadgets can be removed and added but not the room.

i have given the details of my sound system i feel 21ft should not sound too load,my mains and center are huge towers 3waY (wwmtmww format),that confuses me.

r/s

 

[manoj.p]

Go ahead, break the wall. It will help.

 

[raghupb]

You mean 27ft no for HT,will think about it,also to highlight you that my center and mains have wattage of 425w rms per channel plus a 12in sub and if need arises also will think of similar 2nd sub dont you think 21ft room will be small to bear the sound pressure,dont you feel 27ft will be good.???

Dude stop calling it a home theater. It is a mini theater hyeah:
Cheers,
Raghu

 

[sdurani]

Its not about blindly making up ones mind to break the wall,we have to see the advantages in doing so.

I've never seen anyone give so many reasons to break a wall, and none of them are valid (golden ratio, better for Atmos/DTS:X/Auro, too small for the sound pressure, etc). Rather than keep coming up with new excuses to break the wall, you should just go ahead and break the wall. It's obvious that you really want to. Better to get it out of your system rather than spend a lifetime wondering "what if".

 

[rajesh srinivas]

Go ahead, break the wall. It will help.

thanks for the positive reply,thats it for the confussion,no more dragging..

Insulation as you suggested the rockwool batts fluffy type- 24inch thickness have to work out the cost any idea about how much a sq.ft it costs/.i have a door which is exactly at the center of rear wall can we install the insulation leaving the door area.??

Then no need for any bass boom absorbtion for the front walls right..

The other last question of my query i has asked you earlier if 24inch insulation is done for the rear wall,what about the front wall....what sort of acoustic treatment required if no baffle step is done at present.???

r/s.

 

[rajesh srinivas]

Dude stop calling it a home theater. It is a mini theater hyeah:
Cheers,
Raghu

Theatre in a home is always called a home theatre,i havent come across on web or in hifi any thread mentioning the word mini theater,the word mini theater is referred in commercial theater's where the seating capacity is less around 100 to 150 seats.

One more correction if a 130 inch screen can be fitted in a home theater and having 2 rows/3rows it can never be called a "mini theater.."

r/s

 

[rajesh srinivas]

I've never seen anyone give so many reasons to break a wall, and none of them are valid (golden ratio, better for Atmos/DTS:X/Auro, too small for the sound pressure, etc). Rather than keep coming up with new excuses to break the wall, you should just go ahead and break the wall. It's obvious that you really want to. Better to get it out of your system rather than spend a lifetime wondering "what if".

This is will be the last discussion regarding the above topic,hope i didnt drag it for long.

i had my doubts so wanted to clarify them,i thank you and also manoj/raghupb in this thread for giving me lot of information to go ahead,and expect the same to continue till i finish my HT (HOME THEATRE).

thanks
r/s

 

[raghupb]

Theatre in a home is always called a home theatre,i havent come across on web or in hifi any thread mentioning the word mini theater,the word mini theater is referred in commercial theater's where the seating capacity is less around 100 to 150 seats.

One more correction if a 130 inch screen can be fitted in a home theater and having 2 rows/3rows it can never be called a "mini theater.."

r/s

With the kind of sound and projection system you are planning, if I ever visit Hubbali, be assured I am buying a ticket to watch an action/sci-fi flick at "R/S Talkies".
Good luck with the implementation. Hope you can keep it within your budget as far as possible.

Cheers,
Raghu

 

[rajesh srinivas]

With the kind of sound and projection system you are planning, if I ever visit Hubbali, be assured I am buying a ticket to watch an action/sci-fi flick at "R/S Talkies".
Good luck with the implementation. Hope you can keep it within your budget as far as possible.

Cheers,
Raghu

Thanks raghu you are always welcome anytime to visit to my place and mind you it will be FOC,and even welcome any member.

We have discussed a lot about my ht room/acoustic setup in this thread,let me give a brief about my electronic setup for which the inputs will be required When i start my cabling,lighting,audio video setup,

1. projector will be epson either TW5300 OR TW 6600
2. screen carls fixed screen or even as manoj has suggested as in the link
Seymour AV | Welcome need his help at the time of purchase.
3.video source is htpc with dedicated video card i own (Sapphire AMD/ATI Radeon HD 6670 Graphics Card) and audio sound card asus Essence STX II 7.1 yet to buy.
4. amp is diy customised and matched to the power requirements of my speakers (lcr & surround (7.1ch) ,one of my hifi member Mr. aniket is doing it.
5.video format purely 1080p (music or movies) with either dolby true hd or dts hd master nothing less then that.
6. speaker box designing & building is by me,xover again customised by a firm
audiohawk in chennai,they are fimiliar with peerless speakers,link was given by mayank (varsha electronics).

thats it hope you are not bored reading the above.

r/s

 

[manoj.p]

Rajesh,

You can cover the entire screen wall with absorption material and yes, you can put 2 ft of fluffy insulation if possible. You will have to figure out how to place it as the port will need breathing space behind the speaker. If you can't do that much, then put the rigid fiberglass absorption in the corners and around speakers, and behind center speaker.

About the door - this page gives a good, straightforward info. Soundproofing Doors Cheap Door Sweep Soundproofing Materials in USA

btw, curious - are you planning to have your center speaker on the floor like in the picture?

 

[rajesh srinivas]

Rajesh,

You can cover the entire screen wall with absorption material and yes, you can put 2 ft of fluffy insulation if possible. You will have to figure out how to place it as the port will need breathing space behind the speaker. If you can't do that much, then put the rigid fiberglass absorption in the corners and around speakers, and behind center speaker.

About the door - this page gives a good, straightforward info. Soundproofing Doors Cheap Door Sweep Soundproofing Materials in USA

btw, curious - are you planning to have your center speaker on the floor like in the picture?

thanks once again for all the information all your points will be considered.

For center speaker placement will be on a stand max 3 feet from the floor,as in the pic,my LCR will be similar in shape and design,the speaker box design is from clearwave.