Starting in room acoustics

How do i soundproof my home theatre i live on first floor and dont want the sound to go groundfloor neither speaker nor subwoofer bass. If not 100% atleast 80% soundproofing
 
How do i soundproof my home theatre i live on first floor and dont want the sound to go groundfloor neither speaker nor subwoofer bass. If not 100% atleast 80% soundproofing
you already listen to low volume due to Tinnitus. So, no need to soundproof. If you don't want the people under your portion to hear the bass, add SVS Isolation feet. That is more than enough in my opinion.
 
you already listen to low volume due to Tinnitus. So, no need to soundproof. If you don't want the people under your portion to hear the bass, add SVS Isolation feet. That is more than enough in my opinion.
denon does NOT give great sound unless i put on 70. so i run at 70 which is loud and svs feet already installed. i have 1 more question regarding tv wall mount if you can help
 
You can tone down the subwoofer. Svs feet is enough. What question do you have?
watch my room video and tell if i do wallmount tv on same current position ill it be good or should i i try another wall. My current position has wooden doors both left and right side. is it affeting my bass? or does not matter? i go here for tv mount?
 
I sadly dont have the bandwidth to watch videos. So below are some general treatment methods used. I've done all the below, except treating my ceiling.


1) If we cant go full monty with thick bass absorbers. Then best to consider some sort of digital intervention for correcting the bass peaks. Minidsp has several models in their portfolio. And will generally blend the subwoofer better than trying to achieve the same manually. I tried blending a sub with my then 2 channel cum HT system for 6 months and finally gave up. I had a parasound amplifier at that time which allowed high / low pass filters and gains for the sub / main speakers. And despite having this additional functionality, which most integrated amps or preamps dont have, I still failed miserably. So I would suggest minidsp above manual attempts any day.

2) Once the bass is sorted, then I got the biggest gains by treating the wall behind my seating position. This becomes all the more important, if you are sitting very close to the back wall. Anything less than 1 M will be too close. And adding as much thick absorption ( broad band absorption ) as possible here, really reduces flutter echoes and bass reverb. This really improves clarity and also reduces the ambient noise in your room.

3) Third would be the first reflection points on ceiling. Usually we dont treat this area for aesthetic reasons. And I havent treated this yet too. So I will reserve my judgement on that one. And next will be first reflection points on your side walls.

4) Once all the above are attended, then last would be the front wall between the speakers. Usually diffusers work better here.
hey while trying room simulator if you see my current sub placement it is showing 6 inches from right wall is this possible as subwoofer itself is 23 inches in depth . can you explain this i am confused. we need to consider subwoofer cone which is in front for measurement or what?
 

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hey while trying room simulator if you see my current sub placement it is showing 6 inches from right wall is this possible as subwoofer itself is 23 inches in depth . can you explain this i am confused. we need to consider subwoofer cone which is in front for measurement or what?
Haha...yeah there are subwoofers designed to specifically go very very close to the walls to cancel SBIR. Lyngdorf audio calls them boundary woofers. And they are designed to be very narrow and placed touching the wall, so that the bass better couples with the room.

Since you have a normal sub in a box, you can try truning the driver towards the wall, and move it slowly closer to the wall and see. The REW picture you posted is showing the distance of the voice coil from the wall at 6 inches. So the driver will have to be placed maybe 4 inches from the wall, to get that 6 inch distance between the wall and the voice coil. I never tried it, but if you try it, please share how you find it. Thanks :)
 
Haha...yeah there are subwoofers designed to specifically go very very close to the walls to cancel SBIR. Lyngdorf audio calls them boundary woofers. And they are designed to be very narrow and placed touching the wall, so that the bass better couples with the room.

Since you have a normal sub in a box, you can try truning the driver towards the wall, and move it slowly closer to the wall and see. The REW picture you posted is showing the distance of the voice coil from the wall at 6 inches. So the driver will have to be placed maybe 4 inches from the wall, to get that 6 inch distance between the wall and the voice coil. I never tried it, but if you try it, please share how you find it. Thanks :)
What is coil where is drivr lol cant understand
 
The voice coil is at the center of the driver. But behind it, so cant see from outside. Best to use google images to see the construction of a driver.
If i dont face subwoofer front to my sitting position then i guess it is only 23 inches away from wall as depth of cabinet is 17 but if facing towards me then i guess it is only 17 inches from wall as width of sub is 17.no?
 
The voice coil is at the center of the driver. But behind it, so cant see from outside. Best to use google images to see the construction of a driver.
in room eq wizard can you tell i bumped up floor absorption to .97 and it made my graph linear. should i buy thick carpet for floor? with absorption it looks like peaks and nulls
 

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in room eq wizard can you tell i bumped up floor absorption to .97 and it made my graph linear. should i buy thick carpet for floor? with absorption it looks like peaks and nulls
Sadly No. The 0.97 that you entered is the co-effecient of absorption for the entire floor. What you have entered is that the floor is going to absorb 97% of the entrire sound hitting it. Thus, all floor bounce and reflections have been removed from the floor in getting that graph.

In sound absoprtion, 1 is considered the maximum possible absorption ( 100 % ). So .97 is 97%.

Below is a sound absorption graph showing the absorption co-efficients of Rockwool at different frequencies. And as you can see, it has an absorption of 1, only above 400hz. And again this absorption is based on the panel being placed perpendicular to the source of sound. And as the angle changes from 90 degress, the absoprtion will reduce and reflection will increase. So when buying acoustic material, it is worth while to check their absorption co-efficient graphs and see if the material is suitable for the frequency one is targetting. Second is to reduce that absoprtion co-efficeint by the sine of the incident angle of sound and see if at that angle, the panel is still effective or not. All the best :)


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Sadly No. The 0.97 that you entered is the co-effecient of absorption for the entire floor. What you have entered is that the floor is going to absorb 97% of the entrire sound hitting it. Thus, all floor bounce and reflections have been removed from the floor in getting that graph.

In sound absoprtion, 1 is considered the maximum possible absorption ( 100 % ). So .97 is 97%.

Below is a sound absorption graph showing the absorption co-efficients of Rockwool at different frequencies. And as you can see, it has an absorption of 1, only above 400hz. And again this absorption is based on the panel being placed perpendicular to the source of sound. And as the angle changes from 90 degress, the absoprtion will reduce and reflection will increase. So when buying acoustic material, it is worth while to check their absorption co-efficient graphs and see if the material is suitable for the frequency one is targetting. Second is to reduce that absoprtion co-efficeint by the sine of the incident angle of sound and see if at that angle, the panel is still effective or not. All the best :)


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my sub having null in 70 to 89 hz zone what to do?
 
my sub having null in 70 to 89 hz zone what to do?
Impossible to answer :)

If you move that sub to a different place to remove that cancellation between 70 to 89hz, then you will have a new cancellation at a different frequency band. There will always be a cancellation, as long as there is a room. Only solution is to add a new subwoofer somewhere else in the room, so that it fills this cancellation between 70 to 89hz, at your listening position.
 
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