grubyhalo
New Member
Thanks much for your input, was really helpful.
Thanks for your insight cranky. Is there any trade-off at all if I use an EI core in place of a toroid in the power amp? Also, would there be any trade-offs if I go for an EI core for a tube pre-amp or a DAC?
An EI core ..albeit the stacked type ( Primary is on top of secondary) are much better than toroids. Even an ordinary EI core with good quality CRNGO core tightly packed is pretty good.
The toroid's advantage lies in its low flux leakage and size, infact it is more prone to noise from mains and DC component in AC line. So if you are putting the transformer in a separate case or far away from the amp an EI si fine , if you have space constraint use an toroid..
I can supply you with AVEL LindBerg toroids, LM4780 Paralell Kits..my own design..I have posted in the forum you can see that.
I run huge capacitor banks, 40,000uF per channel, and the inrush current is totally under control. A toroid with the same kind of bank would blow the fuses.
If you look at Peter Daniel's DAC, he still uses an EI there
I just placed an order for a full kit of F5 parts (just the power amp bits, no supply, heatsinks or hardware) at Tech-DIY.com, Jack runs a nice service. The cost is only marginally more than a custom selection at Digikey, and both contain comparable parts but Jack provides the input FETs which are near-impossible to get as they're out of current production. The total is $82 with shipping, which should be under the $100 limit for customs...
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@grubyhalo: Vega electronics in Mumbai had some nice 2c/w/6inch heatsinks available for sale. For the 0.3 C/W rating of the Pass F5 in stereo mode, you would need about 24 inches of heatsink total, or two 12-inch sections, one for each channel. They also have a nice book from which you can choose a design and they will give you a custom length. The cheaper heatsinks are also available, but those are ~3c/w/5 inch (empirically calculated, not data-related), and require one 10-inch section for *each* transistor, so total of four 10-inch sections, and you will still need to back the bias down a bit, to the 1A range to stay safe. In any case I intend to use lower bias till winters are here, and then crank it up for full performance.
I intend to use custom transformers, dual 18V secondaries at 10A continuous rating. I already have such transformers but they are 22V secondaries (ergo, 31VDC), and not suitable for the F5.
Sorry, wouldn't know about that but probably not... they seem to be a small shop but used to operate a kit business so they might be still having some arrangement to conduct long-distance business. There might be some phone number you can call and ask about, but maybe it'd be more helpful to get a Mumbai member to check on it for you.
The people you got the address for aren't the same ones. Try this one instead:
Vegakitindia.com - Suppliers of Hobby Kits, Robotics, Electronic Parts and Musical Kits
@soundsgreat: which facts? The UI core used in the Hammond 229D16 in the PD DAC is no different from an EI core transformer as far as construction goes. It is mere semantics, both are bobbin-wound and are not directly wound on the core like a toroid. It behaves exactly the same way and the core loss calculations and flux density would be identical to an EI of the same volume
UF-core and UI-core, these Soft ferrite shapes are available in lamination materials (for stacking), powdered material (typically powdered iron), and ferrite materials. In laminated form, features of UF cores and UI cores are similar to that of the "C" core, and can take full advantage of grain orientation
since you're keen to be exact (EI is a more easily understood term) we'll call them bobbin transformers for exactness and confuse newbies who will wonder what this new animal is.
I'm not sure why you've quoted the other part of my post. A 1A fast-acting fuse required for a 220 VA transformer running at 230V will blow at the inrush current of a 40,000uF cap bank on the secondaries of a toroid transformer. There's no point is using higher rated fuses as it defeats the purpose of a fuse. Since you have quoted it without context, can you please specify where you think I have made an error and I will be glad to illustrate this with the numbers and fuse specifications as well.
Stratos Stereo:
base model specifications:
* $1,195 USD
* 2 x 150 Watts RMS @ 8 Ohms
* 2 Ohm load stable
* Class A/AB
* 2 - 400,000 Hz frequency range
* 60,000F memory
* 45 amps current delivery
* <0.04% THD (not audible)
* >500 continuous damping factor
* Input impedance 22K ohms
* DC offset <1 mV
* RCA & XLR (bridged) inputs
* 400 VA Plitron transformer
* Sanken Epitaxial Planar Transistors 2SA1216 & 2SC2922
* Anti vibration dual thickness PCB
* Power consumption when idle 30Watts
* 4 internal fuses 250V/6.3A, 5x20mm, fast blow
* Additional electrical protection fuse
* 54 lbs weight / 24.5 kg
* Dimensions: 19 width x 18 deep x 7 height (in) /
48.3 width x 45.7 deep x 17.8 height (cm)
It would be foolhardy to start making examples of an amplifier whose topology and design are unknown to us. Quoting from a spec sheet to prove technical points is risky without having all the relevant details backed up.
I am not in a mood to get into a protracted confrontation with you on this topic, it has been significantly sidetracked already. I will now reply only to on-topic posts, as the TS must be frustrated at his simple question being moved so far away from a reasonable answer.
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@Greenie; Check Greg Ball's design. May be what you're looking for, as it is complete. The Aksa or the F5 may be sonically better, but the GBA-150 is very easy to set up as no further purchases (apart from tools and wire) are necessary and Greg's support is first-rate. The amp is moddable (with a new supply and heatsinks) to 50 watt Class A operation, though most everyone claims there is very little difference caused by doing this.
BTW that Anaconda looks awesome! Your projects are so inspiring.
As things stand, I'm trying to see if I can get someone to build the F5 for me for a fee. I've been reading up a bit on the F5 and am quite enamored by it and would love to have one built.
Hi,
Gruby I would be more then happy to build you the F5, fee or no fee I don't care !! Since you plan to buy it from Sudhi,I can collect it here locally and build it for you !!
You may contact me on my mail (you have my ID ) and let me know as to what type of components you prefer and what PS Unit etc etc etc ! Also your preferred cabinet design and such !!
Regards.
Wow, cool man! That's really something. Let me just finalize my driver choices for the speaker design I have in mind and I shall let you know.
P.S: I'm not going to let you build it for free.
I'm guessing I'm greenie.
The Pass F5 ~10K for sure. The kit is 82 dollars, the transformers (first quote) 1K each, 16 caps @ ~70 bucks each, and 4 heatsinks at 250 each. I'm waiting on the parts from Jack, and I need to order the transformers once I get the amps set up and running. Don't have the heatsinks yet either, those should be in Tuesday.