Garrard RC 210

[Josep1955]

I’m trying to repair a Garrard RC 210 turntable. More or less, I’ve the mechanical part working again, but I can’t get the spindle or the turntable out, and I can’t access the top inside. I've used drain oil, olive oil, heat, without results. Can anyone advise me how to remove the spindle and turntable, or some tutorial? Thank you very much!

 

[Bloom@83]

Tagging resident Garrard expert @reubensm

 

[reubensm]

As requested by FM Josep1955 and FM Bloom@83

I have worked on the same changer many years ago and a lovely one it really is. Firstly, dont attempt to remove the spindle without taking out the platter. The spindle will come out but there is danger of something getting bent. Always remove the platter first. Garrard platters are press-fitted to the spindle assembly on all models and hence over time, the platter gets stuck in place.

Assuming you have the right tools for the job, carefully slide the C-clip (retaining crescent shaped clip) from just over the platter under the platter mat. Once you have this out, you will need an extra pair of hands to help you. Place the deck on a soft pillow (or cushion) so as not to bend anything underneath, hold on to the bottom rim of the platter (diagonally) with both hands and apply force as though you are trying to force the platter upward. Have your friend (helper with the extra pair of hands) gently tap the top of the spindle vertically with a wooden block. It has to be done gently so as to apply a light downward force on the deck via the spindle. The platter will jump free. (Caution: never use a screw driver or any sort of lever mechanism and attempt to lift the platter out from one side, the platter will get warped. Also ensure that you take out the C-clip first. Also the taps should be gentle and with a downward motion, bang on top of the spindle. Also never use a hammer or anything stone-hard or metallic for tapping the spindle. Wood is just about right)

Note: the same method is used on even the 'big' Garrards like the 301 and 401 for removing a platter that just wont come out.

 

[Josep1955]

I have worked on the same changer many years ago and a lovely one it really is. Firstly, dont attempt to remove the spindle without taking out the platter. The spindle will come out but there is danger of something getting bent. Always remove the platter first. Garrard platters are press-fitted to the spindle assembly on all models and hence over time, the platter gets stuck in place.

Assuming you have the right tools for the job, carefully slide the C-clip (retaining crescent shaped clip) from just over the platter under the platter mat. Once you have this out, you will need an extra pair of hands to help you. Place the deck on a soft pillow (or cushion) so as not to bend anything underneath, hold on to the bottom rim of the platter (diagonally) with both hands and apply force as though you are trying to force the platter upward. Have your friend (helper with the extra pair of hands) gently tap the top of the spindle vertically with a wooden block. It has to be done gently so as to apply a light downward force on the deck via the spindle. The platter will jump free. (Caution: never use a screw driver or any sort of lever mechanism and attempt to lift the platter out from one side, the platter will get warped. Also ensure that you take out the C-clip first. Also the taps should be gentle and with a downward motion, bang on top of the spindle. Also never use a hammer or anything stone-hard or metallic for tapping the spindle. Wood is just about right)

Note: the same method is used on even the 'big' Garrards like the 301 and 401 for removing a platter that just wont come out.

View attachment 72435

I’m trying to repair a Garrard RC 210 turntable. More or less, I’ve the mechanical part working again, but I can’t get the spindle or the turntable out, and I can’t access the top inside. I've used drain oil, olive oil, heat, without results. Can anyone advise me how to remove the spindle and turntable, or some tutorial? Thank you very much!

I thank you sincerely for the information. I had repaired a more or less similar mechanical BSR McDonald 610, but this Garrard resists my efforts. For now, I’m not going to try to get the platter out, I’m going to keep lubricating the accessible areas and I’m going to try to see how it sounds and how the capsule and the needle are.
With your permission, I will continue to inform you.
Warm regards,

Josep

 

[reubensm]

I thank you sincerely for the information. I had repaired a more or less similar mechanical BSR McDonald 610, but this Garrard resists my efforts. For now, I’m not going to try to get the platter out, I’m going to keep lubricating the accessible areas and I’m going to try to see how it sounds and how the capsule and the needle are.
With your permission, I will continue to inform you.
Warm regards,

Josep

thats great, on another note unfortunately the idler wheel can be inspected and its pivot lubed, only when the platter is removed. If the platter does not slow down whenever the auto-mech activates, then thats a sign that the idler is in good condition.

 

[Josep1955]

thats great, on another note unfortunately the idler wheel can be inspected and its pivot lubed, only when the platter is removed. If the platter does not slow down whenever the auto-mech activates, then thats a sign that the idler is in good condition.

Hi,
I've found the 45 rpm charger for the RC 210. One less thing...
Best regards

Hi,
I managed to remove the platter by tapping gently with a wooden hammer. Now, that I can check the condition of the wheel and grease, is it necessary to remove the spindle?
Regards

 

[reubensm]

Hi,
I managed to remove the platter by tapping gently with a wooden hammer. Now, that I can check the condition of the wheel and grease, is it necessary to remove the spindle?
Regards

Its not really necessary to remove the spindle, a simple lube-job will do. I would always reccomend to remove a changer spindle only if it needs to be replaced.

Before taking a call on the idler wheel condition, dont forget to clean the inner rim of the platter where the idler wheel makes contact. A slippery rim (due to rubber deposits) can make the idler wheel look like its worn, when it may not actually be worn. Lube should never fall on the inner rim of the platter or the contact surface of the idler wheel. Only the idler pivot should be lubed.

 

[Josep1955]

Its not really necessary to remove the spindle, a simple lube-job will do. I would always reccomend to remove a changer spindle only if it needs to be replaced.

Before taking a call on the idler wheel condition, dont forget to clean the inner rim of the platter where the idler wheel makes contact. A slippery rim (due to rubber deposits) can make the idler wheel look like its worn, when it may not actually be worn. Lube should never fall on the inner rim of the platter or the contact surface of the idler wheel. Only the idler pivot should be lubed.

Hi,
The record player seems to be in good condition and, more or less, mechanically works. Only the part of the audio wiring is in very poor condition, with a metal mesh, which I don’t understand. Is it the second pole?
Best regards.

 

[reubensm]

Hi,
The record player seems to be in good condition and, more or less, mechanically works. Only the part of the audio wiring is in very poor condition, with a metal mesh, which I don’t understand. Is it the second pole?
Best regards.

What a splendid looking deck, in pristine condition. Congrats!

The audio wiriing for Garrards RCs is actually very easy to fix. For the 210, the wiring is for 2-channels even though many used just one pair for mono based on application (Radiograms, table-top record players with inbuilt amps, etc). Here are the wiring diagrams for both the audio and AC leads.



A pic of the mesh would be great for reference but I assume you are referring to the shield of the wire. The shield has to be grounded. Noticed you are using a ceramic phonocartridge on the Garrard. Do you have a ceramic phonostage or an amplifier with a ceramic/crystal input to use with this changer? When I had mine, I put together a small phono stage and wired it directly to this connector. Also ensure that you have a groud lead from the Garrard chassis running to your amplifier. This will give you a zero-noise listening experience.

Lastly, one aspect to also check is the AC switch (the on/off deck switch which is enclosed under the plastic cap). This will never fail but since you are servicing it, it would be good to give it a clean up. This model of changer does not have a spark suppressor capacitor and you are likely to hear a 'thump' sound through the speakers every time your changer switches on and off. Connecting a spark supressor capacitor across this deck switch will ensure that the thump goes away and also the switch is saved from sparks and arching. Garrard-type spark supressors for models like the 301, 401 and 4HF are easily available online but if you are looking for a less-expensive option, a 0.05uf, 1000 volt ceramic capacitor (or any other type of non-polar capacitor) can be used for spark suppression. Kindly note that non-polar capacitors like ceramics, can be used in both AC and DC applications. Here is a pic of this deck switch:

 

[Josep1955]

What a splendid looking deck, in pristine condition. Congrats!

The audio wiriing for Garrards RCs is actually very easy to fix. For the 210, the wiring is for 2-channels even though many used just one pair for mono based on application (Radiograms, table-top record players with inbuilt amps, etc). Here are the wiring diagrams for both the audio and AC leads.

View attachment 72678View attachment 72679

A pic of the mesh would be great for reference but I assume you are referring to the shield of the wire. The shield has to be grounded. Noticed you are using a ceramic phonocartridge on the Garrard. Do you have a ceramic phonostage or an amplifier with a ceramic/crystal input to use with this changer? When I had mine, I put together a small phono stage and wired it directly to this connector. Also ensure that you have a groud lead from the Garrard chassis running to your amplifier. This will give you a zero-noise listening experience.

Lastly, one aspect to also check is the AC switch (the on/off deck switch which is enclosed under the plastic cap). This will never fail but since you are servicing it, it would be good to give it a clean up. This model of changer does not have a spark suppressor capacitor and you are likely to hear a 'thump' sound through the speakers every time your changer switches on and off. Connecting a spark supressor capacitor across this deck switch will ensure that the thump goes away and also the switch is saved from sparks and arching. Garrard-type spark supressors for models like the 301, 401 and 4HF are easily available online but if you are looking for a less-expensive option, a 0.05uf, 1000 volt ceramic capacitor (or any other type of non-polar capacitor) can be used for spark suppression. Kindly note that non-polar capacitors like ceramics, can be used in both AC and DC applications. Here is a pic of this deck switch:

View attachment 72680

Hi,
Haha! It wasn’t as clean when I found it! It has stereophonic settings, attached photos of audio cables.
It’s my first experience with a ceramic capsule. I was thinking to connect it to a VIETA UNO amplifier from the 1970s. Does RC 210 need a special amplifier? I have seen that it can also be connected directly to the auxiliary connector of any speaker type Bosé, Vieta, etc, without amplifier.
Best regards.

 

[Josep1955]

What a splendid looking deck, in pristine condition. Congrats!

The audio wiriing for Garrards RCs is actually very easy to fix. For the 210, the wiring is for 2-channels even though many used just one pair for mono based on application (Radiograms, table-top record players with inbuilt amps, etc). Here are the wiring diagrams for both the audio and AC leads.

View attachment 72678View attachment 72679

A pic of the mesh would be great for reference but I assume you are referring to the shield of the wire. The shield has to be grounded. Noticed you are using a ceramic phonocartridge on the Garrard. Do you have a ceramic phonostage or an amplifier with a ceramic/crystal input to use with this changer? When I had mine, I put together a small phono stage and wired it directly to this connector. Also ensure that you have a groud lead from the Garrard chassis running to your amplifier. This will give you a zero-noise listening experience.

Lastly, one aspect to also check is the AC switch (the on/off deck switch which is enclosed under the plastic cap). This will never fail but since you are servicing it, it would be good to give it a clean up. This model of changer does not have a spark suppressor capacitor and you are likely to hear a 'thump' sound through the speakers every time your changer switches on and off. Connecting a spark supressor capacitor across this deck switch will ensure that the thump goes away and also the switch is saved from sparks and arching. Garrard-type spark supressors for models like the 301, 401 and 4HF are easily available online but if you are looking for a less-expensive option, a 0.05uf, 1000 volt ceramic capacitor (or any other type of non-polar capacitor) can be used for spark suppression. Kindly note that non-polar capacitors like ceramics, can be used in both AC and DC applications. Here is a pic of this deck switch:

View attachment 72680

Bluetooth speakers BOSÉ and VIETA.
Warm regards.

 

[reubensm]

Ceramic cartridges have high outputs and will work directly with the Aux input or any other generic input on any amplifier. However, if you use this method, the sound will tend to be very screechy and without much bass. You can suitably adjust the tone controls and make it listenable but there's not much that can be achieved. To achieve good results, a ceramic cart should be wired through a passive eq network or a ceramic phonostage for high quality results. If you are comfortable with DIY electronics, these can be easily put together.

Passive Eq network examples (note: there may be small loss of gain):




Example of passive network for connecting a ceramic cartridge to an Aux input and Magnetic Phono input:


Active ceramic phonostages examples (I have built all 3 of them and can confirm that they are quite good):

 

[Josep1955]

Ceramic cartridges have high outputs and will work directly with the Aux input or any other generic input on any amplifier. However, if you use this method, the sound will tend to be very screechy and without much bass. You can suitably adjust the tone controls and make it listenable but there's not much that can be achieved. To achieve good results, a ceramic cart should be wired through a passive eq network or a ceramic phonostage for high quality results. If you are comfortable with DIY electronics, these can be easily put together.

Passive Eq network examples (note: there may be small loss of gain):

View attachment 72760
View attachment 72761

Example of passive network for connecting a ceramic cartridge to an Aux input and Magnetic Phono input:

View attachment 72762
Active ceramic phonostages examples (I have built all 3 of them and can confirm that they are quite good):

View attachment 72763

View attachment 72764

Hi,
I think I’ve entered a minefield! I don’t have the knowledge or the tools to do that. I suppose a preamp for MM or MC cartridges doesn’t work for me, does it?
For now, I’m going to work the mechanical part and the audio wiring. If it works, I’ll figure out if I leave the ceramic capsule or trade it for a magnetic one, although I prefer to keep the equipment as original as possible.
Thank you very much for your help and cooperation, you are a lovely person. I hope to write to you again in the not too distant future.
Warm regards.

 

[reubensm]

Hi,
I think I’ve entered a minefield! I don’t have the knowledge or the tools to do that. I suppose a preamp for MM or MC cartridges doesn’t work for me, does it?
For now, I’m going to work the mechanical part and the audio wiring. If it works, I’ll figure out if I leave the ceramic capsule or trade it for a magnetic one, although I prefer to keep the equipment as original as possible.
Thank you very much for your help and cooperation, you are a lovely person. I hope to write to you again in the not too distant future.
Warm regards.-

It would be advisable to retain the ceramic cartridge as the tonearm on the RC210 is not suitable for magnetic cartridges. The only magnetic carts which 6can be used with this model is the Shure M3D or M7D as they use about 6 grams tracking weight. Ceramics use beween 6-8 gms tracking weight. Magnetics track at between 1 and 3 grams. When I was using my RC210, I used a ceramic catridge and had the tonearm balancing spring calibrated to offer the lightest possible tracking weight. The changer used to play splendidly. Because of the tonearm on this changer tracks with a heavier weight range, the benefit is that if you play worn out records on this one, they will still play and sound listenable. Also, most older amplifiers and radios have phono inputs suitable for ceramic carts (or crystal carts). All the very best!

 

[Josep1955]

It would be advisable to retain the ceramic cartridge as the tonearm on the RC210 is not suitable for magnetic cartridges. The only magnetic carts which 6can be used with this model is the Shure M3D or M7D as they use about 6 grams tracking weight. Ceramics use beween 6-8 gms tracking weight. Magnetics track at between 1 and 3 grams. When I was using my RC210, I used a ceramic catridge and had the tonearm balancing spring calibrated to offer the lightest possible tracking weight. The changer used to play splendidly. Because of the tonearm on this changer tracks with a heavier weight range, the benefit is that if you play worn out records on this one, they will still play and sound listenable. Also, most older amplifiers and radios have phono inputs suitable for ceramic carts (or crystal carts). All the very best!

Although the wiring seems fine, the sound does not reach the amplifier. I just hear the stylus reading the groove. Another part, and despite removing the 3 fastening screws, I can’t separate the machinery (plate, arms and motor) from the chassis with suspension legs. In this project, the heart was stronger than the head…
All the best!
PS: What crazy the price of Shure M3D or M7D cartridges!

 

[Josep1955]

It would be advisable to retain the ceramic cartridge as the tonearm on the RC210 is not suitable for magnetic cartridges. The only magnetic carts which 6can be used with this model is the Shure M3D or M7D as they use about 6 grams tracking weight. Ceramics use beween 6-8 gms tracking weight. Magnetics track at between 1 and 3 grams. When I was using my RC210, I used a ceramic catridge and had the tonearm balancing spring calibrated to offer the lightest possible tracking weight. The changer used to play splendidly. Because of the tonearm on this changer tracks with a heavier weight range, the benefit is that if you play worn out records on this one, they will still play and sound listenable. Also, most older amplifiers and radios have phono inputs suitable for ceramic carts (or crystal carts). All the very best!

We keep working and moving! https://youtu.be/qCa__9IofRY

 

[reubensm]

We keep working and moving! https://youtu.be/qCa__9IofRY

One of Garrard's 'beautiful' changers especially as your's is in great condition. Working perfectly too. Would be nice to hear it playing through a ceramic phonostage and amplifier.

 

[Josep1955]

One of Garrard's 'beautiful' changers especially as your's is in great condition. Working perfectly too. Would be nice to hear it playing through a ceramic phonostage and amplifier.

The spindle had a blow that prevented its normal operation. The dent removed, it now works perfectly. In a non-ceramic amplifier the sound is very sharp and without bass, unpleasant. There are in the market 1950’s valves amplifiers with ceramic input, but very expensive (300€-400€). As it is not my main record player, we are looking for a practical and cheap solution. Europe is in a delicate economic situation, this is not the time for unnecessary expenditure.
Warm regards.

 

[Josep1955]

One of Garrard's 'beautiful' changers especially as your's is in great condition. Working perfectly too. Would be nice to hear it playing through a ceramic phonostage and amplifier.

I understand that the Garrard 301, 401 and others are much better, but the type A, RC 121 and RC 210 are very nice to me.

 

[reubensm]

I understand that the Garrard 301, 401 and others are much better, but the type A, RC 121 and RC 210 are very nice to me.

301, 401, etc are transcription turntables meant for hi-fi and broadcast use. I have used them both but currently have only the 301. RC210 is a beautiful looking changer whereas type-A was said to be gentle on the records. But the Garrard changer that everyone seems to aspire for is the RC88/4 from the 1950s.