How to rip vinyl?

[Thad E Ginathom]

I would rather use a higher sampling rate, than higher resolution.

Go for 48, rather than 44.1. It's the one no-one seems to argue about being technically superior. On the other hand, I have ripped at 96, just in case I ever invite any bats to a listening party.

On the resolution, though, I think you could be wrong. IIRC from reading my old Cool Edit Pro manual (Oh, how I miss that software!) was to work in 32-bit because that way effects etc are more accurate, because the calculations are floating point.

If you have a sound card (now is the time to regret buying a one-way-street DAC ) then either connect the phoono pre-amp direct to the sound card, or use the tape-out on an integrated/pre amp. If you give one of the tape in/out sets to a sound card, you can monitor from it too.

Making good rips, with minimised crackle and cracks, is a real labour of love, and takes some skill too. I'm a junior in the field.

My first hint: back up the files from your original rip. Keep that "raw data" at least until you are happy with your edited files. And save your work often

 

[gobble]

A preamp will further color the sound with its frequency response curve and electronics will it not? And then wont a phono with a congested sound further influence the rip?
I was reading a math paper the other day, and it seems good dither performance is not possible with floating point numbers.

~G0bble

 

[Thad E Ginathom]

A preamp will further color the sound with its frequency response curve and electronics will it not?

Are you planning to rip without a phono pre-amp? How will you cope with the level? What about the RIAA?

You can apply RIAA EQ in software; I've had good results. I am not really sure, but I think I increased the level before feeding into a sound card. The sound card will be a line-level device.

Probably, though, people with a deck must have a pre-amp, and will be used to its sound, and that is what they will want to get from their rip. different, even if better, is likely to sound wrong to them.

And then wont a phono with a congested sound further influence the rip?

Why would it be congested?

I was reading a math paper the other day, and it seems good dither performance is not possible with floating point numbers.

Never mind dithering ...unless you decide to use 8-bit!

You want the floating-point for editing and effects. Even increasing/decreasing level.

 

[gobble]

I have heard phonos that sound congested and phonos with unpleasant hardness in them and phonos that sound wonderfully spacious and relaxed. Now wont these attributes affect what is digitized?

If you rip 24 bit for a low noisefloor then convert to 16bit dither is needed. Not otherwise. But since dithwr is always applied at the very last to prevent its teanslatoon into noise during further processing, one can possibly use float then apply dither in integer mode at the very last...

G0bble

 

[Thad E Ginathom]

I have heard phonos that sound congested and phonos with unpleasant hardness in them and phonos that sound wonderfully spacious and relaxed. Now wont these attributes affect what is digitized?

Of course, the sound that gets digitised will be the sound output by the preamp. If it is bad, then why would a person even own that pre-amp? It's like... Hey, play your music through a hifi, and the sound might get degraded!

TT --> pre-amp is a necessary, where-ever the sound goes next. I don't understand why you are arguing this?

 

[gobble]

If you have a sound card (now is the time to regret buying a one-way-street DAC ) then either connect the phoono pre-amp direct to the sound card, or use the tape-out on an integrated/pre amp.

I was replying to this, about the pitfalls of adding more gear in the chain like one more preamp. Best to keep the chain shortest.

While I can understand a preamp coloring the sound will reflect in the frequency spectrum and subsequent digitzation I wonder if things like congestion or spacious sound will be captured during digitzation or if it is only a dynamic run time reproduction attribute? Can a recording digitized from a preamp that sounded congested sound spacious when replayed from better high end gear that has the ability to deliver a spacious sound stage?

~G0bble

 

[greenhorn]

I was replying to this, about the pitfalls of adding more gear in the chain like one more preamp. Best to keep the chain shortest.

I believe what Thad was suggesting was that one could either use a standalone phone preamp, or an amp/reciever with a built in phono stage, and use its phono preamp section alone. I don't think there was much room for misinterpretation in his statement, but then again, as evident, it could still happen
As long as you're using an MC/MM cartridge, you will need a phono preamp somewhere to perform the RIAA curve re-eq. so that has got to be there somehow, and can't be avoided.

 

[Thad E Ginathom]

One can do the RIAA EQ in software, but, really one needs to raise the level. Thus: pre-amp. It's the way vinyl works.

 

[gobble]

Ok I understood the recommendation for tape-out of an integrated as an additional preamp after the phono pre. I didnt know the tape out is capable of being a phono... or am I missing something still
?
~G0bble

 

[Thad E Ginathom]

No, it is not an additional preamp.

 

[reubensm]

useful reading on the subject: What's the simplest way I can convert vinyl records to MP3s? - CNET Digital music Forums

 

[Thad E Ginathom]

The process must be pretty well documented net-wide, including recommendations from vinyl masters of HFV, previously posted here. The process of getting the sound on to the hdd is easy and simple, and takes as long as it takes to play the lp. It is what happens next where the hard work comes into play, and how much of it there is depends on how perfect a result is expected.

 

[hildebrand]

I have ripped earlier with my old laptops.
However, the new one I have has only one audio input (combo) connector.
It does not support a Line-in input (only speakeror microphone). I have confirmed from the laptop manufacturer also Line-in is not supported (only gaming laptops support it which are way expensive).
When connecting the 3.1 mm jack (I have an RCA to jack cable to connect to my turntable) I am not able to record.
Playing sounds normally will record all background noises which I don't want.
Searching on the net, I could only find an interesting product:-
LPs and Tapes to MP3 - DAK's Unique System For Transferring Analog Audio into Digital Files - From your Vinyl to your iPhone
This is out since its:-
a. expensive
b. ships only to US/Canada
c. Does not show support for Windows 8.x

I thought of searching some audio to usb converter here but not much success when I looked up online.
I obviously don't want to buy a desktop PC just for this!

None of my turntables are phono and I have a Norge 2060 amp.

I would welcome suggestions from all to resolve this issue.

 

[Naturelover]

Used to get LPs recorded to cassette tapes at a local music store waaay back.
Maybe you may have someone near you who might still be doing that albiet to a hard drive.
I've used Xitel in the the past to convert cassette tapes and LPs. But this has the same issues as the DAK.

 

[greenhorn]

"the" bang for buck solution for this question is the behringer UFO 202.
costs 4k on amazon india, half of that if you can order internationally

 

[hildebrand]

The Xitel one does look good but has same issues as DAK.
The Behringer UFO 202 looks very good though. I will explore that option! It looks to be a great usb sound card.
The site says its digitising at 48 KHz. That is great.

 

[frend2001]

I've been experimenting with a lot of stuff while trying to get best rips from my vinyls.

This is the process that I've perfected.

1 . Turntable to Amp

2 . Amp's pre out to PC's line in.

3. Using Audacity to record the input signal.

4. Recording preference :
Sample rate set to 192Khz
Stereo capture.

5. Saving the sound in WAV format. (It will a large file a 100 MB per Minute)

Then I import the saved sound file into iZotope RX4 software. It does lot many things from click removal to de-noising to dithering. Many advanced option to restore the sound.

My personal way is to do a basic declip then declick and be done with it.

Extensive noise removal and click removal will deaden the dynamic range of music.

ENJOY !!!