Local Indian components Vs Imported components - My shocking Discovery

Hari Iyer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
4,007
Points
113
Location
Mumbai
First let me being by saying that this comparision is completely based on my own personal experience and actual usage / testing and listening and YMMV. FMs who follow me know by now that i do a lot of DIY stuff and at times i take it to extreme level to find the right sound signature that i am looking for. Agreed that we all listen differently and what will be good for me could be bad for you and vice-versa. For each one of us this is your own personal discovery and unless you have burned your fingers discovering this you won't be able to judge what is good and what is bad. Below is my own journey past 5-10 years with various components / gear that i have used in my DIY endeavor and some of this finding will amaze you and lot of FMs won't agree and will troll me. But i am ok with that as my version of the truth has to be told -

1. Capacitors (Electrolytic / Metalized Polypropylene)
Nichicon Vs Keltron: Now this will come as a shocker as its difficult to believe that Keltron's electrolytics are much better than Nichicon Electrolytic unless you have burned your fingers. I had used this Nichicon Electrolytic capacitors in my phono pre-amplifier 3 years ago believing they will be better. I purchased them from theaudiocrafts.com and within a week almost all the capacitors got bulged and i was hearing hum in my audio. I contacted Aminder from theaudiocrafts about the source and he mentioned the source is mouser.com and there was no question of them being duplicate. I did not pursue further and replaced all of them with Keltron of the same rating. I am using the phono pre-amplifier happily ever since that and have no issues of either bulging or hum.

Mundorf metalized polyproplene vs Epcos motor capacitor - Another one of my discovery is this. The Epcos is meant to be used in motor applications, AC and submersible pumps and not marketed as an audiophile capacitor. Most customers of Epcos are generic electricians who wont pay much for a capacitor. They are used in extreme conditions and playing audio for them is like yawning. This is what i too discovered after paying as much as 10 times more for a Mundorf metalized capacitors of the same values. I have a Mundorf 68uF, 400vdc and an EPCOS 72uF,450VAC and i have done this test couple of times and it was easy to retain the Epcos after listening test. I just paid 1/10th for the Epcos. Again most audiophiles wont agree with this too.

Orange drops / DEC / CTR - In this case not much difference between orange drops and CTR but the Indian - DEC is a bad polyster capacitor to be completely avoided.

2. Potentiometers
Allo stepped attenuator / Alps carbon film / Elcom carbon film / Potel wire-wound potentiometers - This was a great discovery after using the ALPS blue velvet carbon film potentiometer and the Allo stepped attenuator which are priced similar and have similar sound signatures where the Alps being much mellower than the Allo. But the greatest discovery was using the Potel (Indian Brand) wire-wound potentiometer and both the Alps and Allo wont come closer to the resolution of the Potel and that too at 1/4th the cost. The Potel is an industrial wire-wound potentiometer and not used for commercial applications and i would have been the rarest person who have used them in an preamplifier. Its specifications and tolerance are better than Alps and have a 20000 cycles guarantee. Sound stage and resolution is unmatched with anything i have heard before. The Alps blue velvet potentiometer that i have used before is no match for the Poten wire-wound potentiometer and another great discovery by me after spending lots of cash.

3. Resistors
Vishay Roderstein/ Intron (local Indian Brand) - The Vishay Roderstein 1% metal film resistors that i have used is quite noisy and actually induce a lot of distortion in the input grid to ground driver tubes. I replaced these Vishay with an Intron (Indian Brand) thin film resistors with superb resolution, dynamics and distortion benefits. It was easy to scrap the Vishay within 5 mintues of listening. I am now planning to replace the cathode bypass and the plate resistors of the driver tubes with these for further benefits though it will be quite expensive replacement. Again this is difficult to fathom - how could an Indian brand be better than an American brand resistors. But i am ok with whatever FM think. This is my own analysis.

Raatronics / Mills - This one came as a shocker for me as the Mills are 10 times more expensive than the Raatronics in India. But performance and measurement wise it wont come even close to the Raatronics. Again difficult to believe but fortunately true. The Mills though sold as a 1% and non-inductive resistance was actually having 5% tolerance and a 8.66k resistance showed an inductance of 40mH in my HTC LCR meter where the Raatronics was 0.2% tolerance though sold as 1% tolerance and for the same value resistance was truly non-inductive and open circuit inductance. Nevertheless to say the Raatronics outperformed the Mills by miles and it was very easy to scrap the Mills. After listening to both Mills and Raatronics i could easily find out that the Mills were bandwidth limited and they actually compressed the high-ends too much. The Raatronics were quite smooth, mellow and open.

4. Output transformers

Poshan / Softone / Delta / Dared

The Dared (Chinese) was worst of the lot followed by Poshan (Hongkong). Delta (Indian) was quite good compared to the previous two but
was easily out numbered by the Softone (Japanese) R-core OPT. The Softone was the best OPT that i have ever listened to till date.

DIYers can try these locally available components at a much lower price but better performing than the imported ones as listed above and do not fall for the saying - "Everything imported has to be good or better than locally available ones". Only after burning my pocket deep i have done this discovery and now am wiser with my purchase. DIYers should use my experience and do not fall prey to other forums rant and go for any purchase blindly but use their due diligence. Its a completely different thing if you have a higher budget and have a strong feeling that only imported products are good, but dont try to prove that since its imported it has to be good. If you say then provided valid evidence of you using a local component and doing a comparison and then saying that unless not. My 2 paise.

Thanks for looking.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
But the greatest discovery was using the Poten (Indian Brand) wirewound potentiometer and both the Alps and Allo wont come closer to the resolution of the Poten and that too at 1/4th the cost. The Poten is an industrial wirewound potentiometer and not used for commercial applications and i would have been the rarest person who have used them in an pre-amplifier. Its specifications and tolerance are better than Alps and have a 20000 cycles guarantee. Sound stage and resolution is unmatched with anything i have heard before. The Alps blue velvet potentiometer that i have used before is no match for the Poten wirewound potentiometer and another great discovery by me after spending lots of cash.
Did you mean "Potel"?
 
First let me being by saying that this comparision is completely based on my own personal experience and actual usage / testing and listening and YMMV. FMs who follow me know by now that i do a lot of DIY stuff and at times i take it to extreme level to find the right sound signature that i am looking for. Agreed that we all listen differently and what will be good for me could be bad for you and vice-versa. For each one of us this is your own personal discovery and unless you have burned your fingers discovering this you won't be able to judge what is good and what is bad. Below is my own journey past 5-10 years with various components / gear that i have used in my DIY endeavor and some of this finding will amaze you and lot of FMs won't agree and will troll me. But i am ok with that as my version of the truth has to be told -

1. Capacitors (Electrolytic / Metalized Polypropylene)
Nichicon Vs Keltron: Now this will come as a shocker as its difficult to believe that Keltron's electrolytics are much better than Nichicon Electrolytic unless you have burned your fingers. I had used this Nichicon Electrolytic capacitors in my phono pre-amplifier 3 years ago believing they will be better. I purchased them from theaudiocrafts.com and within a week almost all the capacitors got bulged and i was hearing hum in my audio. I contacted Aminder from theaudiocrafts about the source and he mentioned the source is mouser.com and there was no question of them being duplicate. I did not pursue further and replaced all of them with Keltron of the same rating. I am using the phono pre-amplifier happily ever since that and have no issues of either bulging or hum.

Mundorf metalized polyproplene vs Epcos motor capacitor - Another one of my discovery is this. The Epcos is meant to be used in motor applications, AC and submersible pumps and not marketed as an audiophile capacitor. Most customers of Epcos are generic electricians who wont pay much for a capacitor. They are used in extreme conditions and playing audio for them is like yawning. This is what i too discovered after paying as much as 10 times more for a Mundorf metalized capacitors of the same values. I have a Mundorf 68uF, 400vdc and an EPCOS 72uF,450VAC and i have done this test couple of times and it was easy to retain the Epcos after listening test. I just paid 1/10th for the Epcos. Again most audiophiles wont agree with this too.

Orange drops / DEC / CTR - In this case not much difference between orange drops and CTR but the Indian - DEC is a bad polyster capacitor to be completely avoided.

2. Potentiometers
Allo stepped attenuator / Alps carbon film / Elcom carbon film / Poten wire-wound potentiometers - This was a great discovery after using the ALPS blue velvet carbon film potentiometer and the Allo stepped attenuator which are priced similar and have similar sound signatures where the Alps being much mellower than the Allo. But the greatest discovery was using the Poten (Indian Brand) wirewound potentiometer and both the Alps and Allo wont come closer to the resolution of the Poten and that too at 1/4th the cost. The Poten is an industrial wirewound potentiometer and not used for commercial applications and i would have been the rarest person who have used them in an pre-amplifier. Its specifications and tolerance are better than Alps and have a 20000 cycles guarantee. Sound stage and resolution is unmatched with anything i have heard before. The Alps blue velvet potentiometer that i have used before is no match for the Poten wirewound potentiometer and another great discovery by me after spending lots of cash.

3. Resistors
Vishay Roderstein/ Intron (local Indian Brand) - The Vishay Roderstein 1% metal film resistors that i have used is quite noisy and actually induce a lot of distortion in the input grid to ground driver tubes. I replaced these Vishay with an Intron (Indian Brand) thin film resistors with superb resolution, dynamics and distortion benefits. It was easy to scrap the Vishay within 5 mintues of listening. I am now planning to replace the cathode bypass and the plate resistors of the driver tubes with these for further benefits though it will be quite expensive replacement. Again this is difficult to fathom - how could an Indian brand be better than an American brand resistors. But i am ok with whatever FM think. This is my own analysis.

Raatronics / Mills - This one came as a shocker for me as the Mills are 10 times more expensive than the Raatronics in India. But performance and measurement wise it wont come even close to the Raatronics. Again difficult to believe but fortunately true. The Mills though sold as a 1% and non-inductive resistance was actually having 5% tolerance and a 8.66k resistance showed an inductance of 40mH in my HTC LCR meter where the Raatronics was 0.2% tolerance though sold as 1% tolerance and for the same value resistance was truly non-inductive and open circuit inductance. Nevertheless to say the Raatronics outperformed the Mills by miles and it was very easy to scrap the Mills. After listening to both Mills and Raatronics i could easily find out that the Mills were bandwidth limited and they actually compressed the high-ends too much. The Raatronics were quite smooth, mellow and open.

4. Output transformers

Poshan / Softone / Delta / Dared

The Dared (Chinese) was worst of the lot followed by Poshan (Hongkong). Delta (Indian) was quite good compared to the previous two but
was easily out numbered by the Softone (Japanese) R-core OPT. The Softone was the best OPT that i have ever listened to till date.

DIYers can try these locally available components at a much lower price but better performing than the imported ones as listed above and do not fall for the saying - "Everything imported has to be good or better than locally available ones". Only after burning my pocket deep i have done this discovery and now am wiser with my purchase. DIYers should use my experience and do not fall prey to other forums rant and go for any purchase blindly but use their due diligence. Its a completely different thing if you have a higher budget and have a strong feeling that only imported products are good, but dont try to prove that since its imported it has to be good. If you say then provided valid evidence of you using a local component and doing a comparison and then saying that unless not. My 2 paise.

Thanks for looking.
A list of dealers, websites, minimum quantities, shipping etc would be most welcome
 
Very true.
1) none of my Keltron Caps have failed. In fact when a capacitor fails (mostly Panasonic, Nichicon, I replace them with Keltron).
2) The quality of the allo stepped attenuator is really fantastic, well made and well engineered. I have to try poten though.
3) I have used Delta transformers and till date, none of them had their primary blown. I have lost countless number of Chinese trafos to power fluctuations.
 
A list of dealers, websites, minimum quantities, shipping etc would be most welcome
Keltron - any quantity easily available locally. Go for a reputed dealers as there are cases of duplicate Keltron capacitors floating around.

EPCOS - Any well reputed electrical shop usually stock all values and easily available everywhere.

Potel - Google potel wire wound potentiometer and contact details are available. I just bought a single qty 4 x 10k ganged and he was happy to ship me. Location ,valsad - Gujarat dirrectly from manufacturer no dealers comission to eat inbetween - custom built potentiometer possible

Raatronics - Location Goreagaon, Mumbai. Just google and contact. No dealer - direct manufacturer. Custom built resistors possible

Intron -- Location Thane. No dealer, direct manufacturer. Custom built resistors possible
 
Nichicon Vs Keltron
Are you basing this on one data set (or one build) alone or have you faced higher failure rate of Nichicon even before?
I am not going to nit pick Indian parts as I have little experience with them.
I find it hard to believe what you've experienced with Nichicon or even Vishay. I can understand if repeated builds of electronics using these brands resulted in a failure. These are some of the most used and sought after brands among most Hi Fi components, Vishay especially in the high end space so is a bit hard to digest whats going on here.

I'd start by changing your source or dealer for these parts, import them directly and see how it goes.
 
Very true.
1) none of my Keltron Caps have failed. In fact when a capacitor fails (mostly Panasonic, Nichicon, I replace them with Keltron).
2) The quality of the allo stepped attenuator is really fantastic, well made and well engineered. I have to try poten though.
3) I have used Delta transformers and till date, none of them had their primary blown. I have lost countless number of Chinese trafos to power fluctuations.
In my Allo stepped attenuator there were instance of resistors (5 of them) getting open circuit. Also switching volume were noisy and had clicking noise which led me to replace them. I was ok with the SQ but can't match the Wirewound Potentiometer.

Are you basing this on one data set (or one build) alone or have you faced higher failure rate of Nichicon even before?
I am not going to nit pick Indian parts as I have little experience with them.
I find it hard to believe what you've experienced with Nichicon or even Vishay. I can understand if repeated builds of electronics using these brands resulted in a failure. These are some of the most used and sought after brands among most Hi Fi components, Vishay especially in the high end space so is a bit hard to digest whats going on here.

I'd start by changing your source or dealer for these parts, import them directly and see how it goes.
I was expecting this reply sooner or later. I cannot say about Nichicon as I never used them after my disastrous usage in my phono preamplifier. But about Vishay Roderstien even my mentor (Jeff) don't have high regards. He warned me for not using Vishay DC- Link capacitor anywhere in my amplifier due to its poor sonic quality. He suggested me to use WIMA DC-Link capacitors. About Vishay resistors, they are absolute crap and very harsh and have high distortion. I have used the half watt brown so- called military grade resistors in my phono preamplifier too and was not happy. Again you need lots of listening experience to identify a good and bad resistor by listening which I have developed over past 10+ years. For a novice you won't even notice any difference. Even between Mills and Raatronics only if you do A/B critical listening you can easily notice the difference - else not.

Source - mouser.com for Vishay
For Nichicon theaudiocrafts.com who source from mouser.com can't find a more reputed source
 
you need lots of listening experience to identify a good and bad resistor by listening which I have developed over past 10+ years. For a novice you won't even notice any difference. Even between Mills and Raatronics only if you do A/B critical listening you can easily notice the difference - else not.
Then what's the problem for most of us ordinary people?
 
Then what's the problem for most of us ordinary people?
Hello Surfatwork !!

The problem is without experimenting and deciding for yourself, you will not develop the background and skill set to allow yourself to improve, based on what you try out.

It is always best IMHO to try things out - on your own, and trust your ears.

Feel free to use any and all of Hari's suggestions in this thread, but YOU need to make and listen to such aural comparisons, and decide for yourself.

( See please, my comment to Hari, below. )

Jeff


Dear Hari,

On 11-03-2021 I had a conversation with a VERY advanced DIY tube amplifier builder, ..... someone I can trust - besides Dennis .

Here is what he told me, after I told him about you and your 402R failing.

1) Every Mills MRA-5 5 Watt resistor he has used has failed, a 100% failure rate.

2) His Mills MRA-12s, which he has owned, early ones dating- back 15 years to the "better sounding" ones ( pre-Mexico manufactured ) are beaten by a common 10 or 12 Watt Dale wirewound resistor, which he can order from Mouser.

I will query and post the DALE specifics - as to model number - so that anyone who is curious can at least TRY - out the right Dale resistor !!

......... An interesting set of comments !!!

A huge problem is that something can sound " nice " or "" better " in a system, because it complements other problems in the system.

The new part may "ZIG", where an other part "ZAGs".

Just how good is each and every part - the system's source, and all the wiring, the electronics, and the speakers??

No doubt, one may hear the "entire system" as better overall, but,........ is it really ?? THAT ..... is a key question.

Jeff


Edit:

Re reading your initial post, re : Potel wirewound potentiometers :

Did someone in the USA suggest to you to make up a 10K System Attenuator for yourself, using a 3 turn Precision WIREWOUND pair of potentiometers, on a common shaft, configured as an L -Pad???

The ALPS was not a wirewound pot, was it. Is the ALPS element conductive plastic ??

Maybe you have simply learned now, from your direct experience - that a wirewound pot, as suggested to you, can sound good ???

Jeff


Download the pdf on a " Bourns 3547."

I can do a write-up / thread, on how to execute a great sounding DIY System Attenuator
if there is much interest.

Jeff
 

Attachments

Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Haribhai for sharing this.
The Potel wirewound pots looks good for diy. They have 10k to 33k value and Dual too. However they are linear but if one wishes a fake logarithmic pot can be made. In my cheap LM3886 build I used 10K Indian made pot with 1.2K resistor across output to amp (wiper to ground terminal). It works perfectly.
Regards.
 

Attachments

  • FLP.jpg
    FLP.jpg
    172.8 KB · Views: 40
To me Nichicon and Panasonic caps sounds better Keltron. Keltron is reliable and good. But said 2 has better tones.

Vishay resistors, they are absolute crap and very harsh and have high distortion. I have used the half watt brown so- called military grade resistors in my phono preamplifier too and was not happy.
Perhaps harsh as I have 2 dcb1 builts and some how l feel local resistors sounds cleaner. Vishay sounds bigger in signal path though.
 
To me Nichicon and Panasonic caps sounds better Keltron. Keltron is reliable and good. But said 2 has better tones.
I am not saying Nichicon sounds good or bad, but it's just not reliable. Bulging within a week of use is not acceptable by any standards. If it was other way round that Keltron getting bulged then FMs won't wait even for a day to write a Keltron bashing. Nichicon was not reliable for me.

@drlowmu I have wired the WW potentiometer as per your suggestion for constant input impedance using two ganged potentiometer per channel.

The ALPS is a carbon film type and the discussion is not about type, but is about cost vs quality. The ALPS blue velvet potentiometer are 4 times expensive compared to Potel but does not offer 4 times the quality. Rather the Potel sounds better than Alps imo.
 
Where did you buy ?from? Online?
Direct from manufacturer. Search Potel potentiometer and contact is given


I have used the V3G x 4 ganged for my passive preamplifier. It's rugged and complete ceramic construction, no plasic.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Haribhai for sharing this.
The Potel wirewound pots looks good for diy. They have 10k to 33k value and Dual too. However they are linear but if one wishes a fake logarithmic pot can be made. In my cheap LM3886 build I used 10K Indian made pot with 1.2K resistor across output to amp (wiper to ground terminal). It works perfectly.
Regards.


ON THE CHEAP : The dual, linear, one-turn Potel 10K wirewound pot is the one to buy if on a budget. Actually, buy a pair of 10K duals.

Configure each dual pot as an L-pad ( constant 10K impedance )............. for each channel.

**************** Do not worry at all about it not being log. ********************

Use MXL pulley and belt systems, so that it takes two to three turns from a ( smaller diameter MXL pulley ) as the separate central system Volume Control pulley and control knob, to turn the two dual pots from full off to full on. This 2 to 3 turn ( via the differing ODs of the MXL pulleys ) is a VERY NICE user - adjustment range ratio, with linear pots.

A one turn linear pot is too abrupt, too sensitive under normal use. That 1.2K resistor can ( thankfully ) be totally avoided...discarded, it too has it's own unwanted sound .

The dual pots on a common shaft have their end-to-ends wired OPPOSITE each other ( envision an " X" ). Then, wire or tie the two wipers together.

From the Center point of these two wipers' connecting wire, you now have a variable 10 K constant impedance output !!!

Only use highest quality silver wire , about 18 or 19 AWG, to make all these front-to-back dual-pot connections. Use similar quality wire on the RCA jacks, going into and out of the System Attenuator.

If you need more help, let me know PM, etc.

FYI : The Bourns 3547 is much more expensive pot, and the 3547 10K duals are seldom carried. The Bourns 3547 precision pot is close to ideal, very very hard to beat, if well-DIYed, no matter what it competes against. A Bourns 3547 is rated for 750,000 mechanical rotations, no load, whereas the Potel seems to be rated at 20,000 rotations. I have never heard a Potel wirewound, but Hari seems to like it.

Jeff
 
Last edited:
Hello Surfatwork !!

The problem is without experimenting and deciding for yourself, you will not develop the background and skill set to allow yourself to improve, based on what you try out.

It is always best IMHO to try things out - on your own, and trust your ears.

Feel free to use any and all of Hari's suggestions in this thread, but YOU need to make and listen to such aural comparisons, and decide for yourself.

( See please, my comment to Hari, below. )

Jeff
Yup, been doing that for years and will continue to do so - experimentation and listening is essential to finding out what works for YOU in YOUR build! But stating those conclusions as universal fact, on the basis of anecdotal subjective evidence, is not correct. That's my point.
 
Wharfedale Linton Heritage Speakers in Red Mahogany finish at a Special Offer Price. BUY now before the price increase.
Back
Top