It is good to learn what you posted. I just looked up your Cadence speaker. A seven inch driver with a ESL panel ( nicely ) time-aligned positioned on top, crossed over at 1.8 kHZ. With a rated efficiency of only 86.5 dB, I would like to suggest that 14 and 16 AWG will not be the best solution, to optimally couple electrical energy from your P-P 40 Watt 6550 amplifier to your speaker. The TRIO wiring in this thread, is the equivalent of 8 AWG, and over four decades, that is about what I have found is needed to ideally couple any decent amplifier, to a decent speaker, to get full performance from the bass notes on up.
Developing an 8 AWG wire for audio use is quite a challenge, as we want the cable to be wideband at both extremes of the sound spectrum, but be balanced and natural sounding. Not just play the midrange. The TRIO, DIY built as I described it herein, is the only approach I am aware of, that fits the requirement. Its been user tested - 10 for 10......... in decent systems.
My original post's query was, what was the AWG of the power cord braided you suggested, and what does it look like, the braid, etc.
BTW, off topic, but I am familiar with electrostats. In the 1970s, after I sold my first-purchased new speaker ( 15 inch Tannoy Monitor Golds in GRF factory enclosures ) I purchased used KLH Model 9s, advertised as a full range ESL. I later found a used second pair, and ended up running " double KLH9s", which back in the day was quite the audio "In" thing to do.
After the double KLH9s, I owned Infinity Systems " Servo Static 1" electrostatic , with upgraded "1A" ESL panels, and a large ( 18 Inch ? ) system sub woofer. That was mostly ESL in playback. In 1975, Gordon Holt of Stereophile Magazine gave them an " A" rating, along with the new " Fulton J Modular " large loudspeaker,......... JUST those two speakers. I became associated with Robert Fulton, until he passed away in 1988.
Here is a photo of me picking up what was to be my second pair of KLH9s, early 1970s, on Venice Blvd., in Venice, CA, a town in the Los Angeles, CA area. I sure was happy and excited-looking, anticipating usage of that second pair. Having a convertible vehicle ( a 1961 356B Roadster ) , helped fit-them-in for a short journey home.
( Gee, the KLH9 transport-photo is in Adobe Acrobat, and I can not get it to paste here, in that form. I WILL TRY TO GET A COMPUTER SAVVY AUDIOPHILE FRIEND TO HELP GET IT IN A BETTER FORMAT. CUTE PHOTO for sure. )
I now routinely rewire inside my speakers. Add double 12 AWG m22759/11/12, to each 15 inch Woofer polarity, and a single 16 AWG m22759/11/16 for each polarity of the Altec 802D Compression tweeter. " An inch of bad wire can ruin the musical experience ".
I too had a love affair with my KLH 9s and Infinity Servo Statics. Fifty years later,.....LOL, ....... only ALTEC A7-8s will I use.
Owned two 1961 356B Roadsters - at different times, and one 1957 356A 1600cc Super Speedster. All three - were fun.
My love for a particular Porsche is very intense. The 917K. They did have few street legal ones but the Le Mans cars were from another world at that time. Small team filled with a bunch of crazy mechanics(in a loveable way) with everything to loose and had only a couple of shots at the title. And they did it. And on most other endurance tracks as well.
I digress and its a conversation for another thread.
The audiophile who I quoted here in this thread ( Page 1, Post #1`7 ) on preferring the naturalness of the DIY TRIO wires over his many thousand dollars in cost ( can't say worth ) Audio Note all silver speaker wires, just joined HFV as a new Member. He joined to share with us all his listening reactions, and not only to the TRIO wires.
He has been using S/N 2 ( I use S/N 1 ) of the stereo single 6005 tube amplifier. It is the DIY build I fully presented here on HFV, on a from-scratch basis in 2020-2021.
In his unsolicited first post, he clearly describes his home's audio system, and his listening reactions subjective, after three weeks of using 6005 S/N 2. This person is a near-retirement-age Hong Kong accountant by profession, and quite a nice human being. Please see it here :
05-28-2022................... A Conceptual PRIMER , On SE Tube Amplifier Power Supply Design The power supplies shown in this and last year's 6005 amp build, each have what is called " L.S.E.S." passive power supplies. This is an acronym standing for " Low Stored Energy Supplies ". In both...
I soon will be working on getting the " TRIPLE " 6005 tube monoblock amplifiers made. It's not fully my design idea, mainly my Mentor's design concept, so it is to be called : " The Dennis Triple / FSHS ". Finally, I am now fully motivated - to want to hear these on my own ALTEC LANSING's VOTT horn speakers. Amp is 100% designed, I just need to finish the building.
My current setup is no more single driver but it’s four driver OB Line Array. Total DCR stands at 9 ohms.
My room is small and the speakers to amp cable length, each side is about 7 feet.
I tried Belden 8473 and the low end was gone. Went back to my Gotham cables (sorry not Eurocable as I mentioned above. That was used with bass drivers)
I have one query. It’s quite right that your setup will sound as good as your weakest link in the chain. While building a passive crossover network for a 2 way bookshelf speaker when I looked at the terminals of the capacitors in the signal path, I was wondering how much would it mitigate the speaker cable effort ?
Yes, the capacitors are only in series with the tweeter but the post here talks about the HF extension being done right by tripling the wires for speaker cables.
We cannot possibly wind our own capacitors and use the same wire for terminations.
The TRIO of 12+12+14 AWG (equaling 8 AWG 9.52 feet ) is a speaker wire - only used between the amplifier's output terminals and the input of the passive speaker crossover, polarities no-touch.
In the tweeter section ( which you brought up ), from the passive crossover to the tweeters - we find a small sized wire is needed - to best -maintain the high frequencies. We use to tweeters, per polarity, a single run of 16 AWG : m22759/11/16, 57 1/8th long, This 16 AWG goes to the terminals on my compression driver ( Altec 802D tweeter ) - with polarities not touching, to retain good highs. If a midrange driver were present, I'd use 14 AWG Mil Spec, to each polarity, no touch. We routinely use 2 Xs 12 AWG to each woofer terminal /polarity.
I use and prefer simple two way speakers, both front horn loaded , a 15 and a 1 inch, for home use, ALTEC.
Here, that follows, is more specific information on how to best twist the 12+12+14 AWG Mil Spec wires in a TRIO 9.52 foot single-polarity speaker cable run.
The twists are about ideal at one per INCH .
Terminate all three leads into ONE large ring terminal on ONE end. ( Large VISE - squeezed terminal end and three wires as tight as possible in a vise grip, and solder. A TIGHT terminal-wire connection is paramount, do not rely on JUST solder connections, which sound poor. )
Go outside your home and screw the ring to a large tree. Using a PORTABLE electric drill, insert the three other wire ends of the TRIO into the drill's chuck. VERY TIGHTLY clasp trio ends to chuck. Lean back on the full stretched wire length to apply mild tension onto the stretched wires, and slowly start to use the drill to EVENLY twist the wire. Avoid having wire form twisting-coils.
When getting close to full twist rate, ie one per inch, you will have to lean back, using your full upper torso body weight, to keep twists even and neat. STOP twisting at one per inch. It will subsequently relax some, no big deal, when you release your body weight from the process. This even, initial, one inch twisting dimension, will look and better yet- sound the best.
You deserve the best, and I do too !!! Have fun.
Show us photos of your finished speaker cables, and please DO a subjective report for all to read, as was done once in this Thread's Post #2..
I procured some wire in 12 and 14AWG. Jeff's recipe of using 12+12+14 which comes to 10.5 mm2 was out of bounds as my full ranger comes with a spring-loaded push-type binding post and will not accept anything more than 8mm. So I twisted a pair of 12AWG per terminal (8 mm2), I didn't care much for keeping the wires separated (as suggested) and went ahead braiding them.
These cables are tough! the sheath is thin, but the wire is strong and not easily malleable, unlike a typical multi-strand. This wire behaves more like a solid core wire, and the braiding wasn't easy. The strands are strong and thick.
Once the braiding was complete and terminated with spades, the wire was hooked-up. The effect of changing a cable was more drastic than I had expected. The imaging was off!
Slouched back on my sofa in annoyance, I listened to it for a while wondering what could've happened. I rechecked all the connections, and they were solid. I moved the speakers around, but nothing did it.
It was already late, and my fingers were hurting from stripping and braiding the wires.
I woke up earlier than expected today with the enigma still in my mind. It dawned on me to change the polarity of the cable on the speaker that was softer, and BANG! there it was; everything was perfect once again. In my callousness, while braiding the cables, I forgot to mark the negative and positive wires, and ended up running my fingers along the cable to locate the pairings, and still goofed up one of the cables.
I procured some wire in 12 and 14AWG. Jeff's recipe of using 12+12+14 which comes to 10.5 mm2 was out of bounds as my full ranger comes with a spring-loaded push-type binding post and will not accept anything more than 8mm. So I twisted a pair of 12AWG per terminal (8 mm2), I didn't care much for keeping the wires separated (as suggested) and went ahead braiding them.
These cables are tough! the sheath is thin, but the wire is strong and not easily malleable, unlike a typical multi-strand. This wire behaves more like a solid core wire, and the braiding wasn't easy. The strands are strong and thick.
Once the braiding was complete and terminated with spades, the wire was hooked-up. The effect of changing a cable was more drastic than I had expected. The imaging was off!
Slouched back on my sofa in annoyance, I listened to it for a while wondering what could've happened. I rechecked all the connections, and they were solid. I moved the speakers around, but nothing did it.
It was already late, and my fingers were hurting from stripping and braiding the wires.
I woke up earlier than expected today with the enigma still in my mind. It dawned on me to change the polarity of the cable on the speaker that was softer, and BANG! there it was; everything was perfect once again. In my callousness, while braiding the cables, I forgot to mark the negative and positive wires, and ended up running my fingers along the cable to locate the pairings, and still goofed up one of the cables.
You need a bare MINIMUM of 50 hours to allow the wire, and solder joints to break in.
Did you just turn the two allen wrench fittings in each pictured terminal to secure the cable stripped ends ? If so, that is not at all good enough. It will sound poor.
( One should CRUSH the stripped ends inside the recommended-by-me large copper ring terminals in a vise, a large industrial vise. There is a tight overall physical connection required, of all three stripped ends in the copper terminal. Then SOLDER the entire connection so that the solder properly flows. I use a Weller D-550 or D-650, on it's 325 Watt power setting.)
But it is O.K. if you didn't initially solder it, because NOW you can more easily re-do it all, properly . Hand-twisting the polarities, 114 1/4 inches, ohh my goodness.
Besides reducing dynamics as Hari reports, if the polarities touch just ONE time, my system's ( VOTT A7-8 ) entire top end extension is instantly ruined. Music becomes boring to hear.
Yes, the last thing in this world I would do, is twist the two polarities all the way, every inch or so, as you have done.
It ruins the audio performance and beauty of the music's presentation. Also, try to not use heat shrink on speaker cables as you did, because it also degrades the sonics. It's another bad idea, much like a tie wrap .
You truly implemented this Mil Spec wire OPPOSITE of what I had recommended. Why ??
My instructions last week ( 12-26-2022 ) was for braiding ONE TRIO polarity only !!! AND ........... no touch of the two differing polarities !!
It is good to learn what you posted. I just looked up your Cadence speaker. A seven inch driver with a ESL panel ( nicely ) time-aligned positioned on top, crossed over at 1.8 kHZ. With a rated efficiency of only 86.5 dB, I would like to suggest that 14 and 16 AWG will not be the best...
www.hifivision.com
With a drill, braiding takes about 20 minutes, and the drill does almost all the work.
2) Your problem is the consumer - use ( flimsy ) push -to-fit spring loaded connectors on your full range speaker.
You should simply IMPROVE that speaker-to-speaker wire interface.
Make a smartly-designed jumper, maybe 7 or 14 inches of single m22759/11/12, to a large / heavy duty copper or brass threaded DIY two-lug terminal, and secure that two - lug DIY connector on to a solid location VERY close to you speaker's Push to Fit, spring loaded connectors.
ALL hardware should be 100% similar, either all brass or copper ( or Stainless, all the SAME material ) ( bolts, nuts, lock washers, flat washers ).
( Let us no longer degrade the TRIO speaker wire and it's design, to adapt it to the driver's fragile high-loss consumer-type connections. )
3) rebuild the TRIOS properly, starting with a copper large ring terminal. If necessary, make an adapter at the amp end also. Consider the TRIOS to be an audio component of an industrial nature, and adapt your consumer equipment to the industrial equipment.
If you have any additional questions, please PM me as you have done previously.
Thank you for taking the effort thus far !! Thanks for the photos and dialog. For that , easily an A ++.
Two posts above, we see a fancy gold plated spade lug. Allow me to suggest HOW to employ these , to honor the music.
Throw away the two allen head socket set screws. That wire attachment is totally inadequate, and it will sound poor.
Strip off sufficient amounts of the m22759/11 wire's outer teflon insulation, to bare the wire ends. SQUASH the newly-bared wire, while it is inserted inside ( as far as possible ) the new terminal's barrel .
I start this " barrel squashing -from round towards FLAT "......... initially with long handled pliers. Get the newly inserted wire " centered and stable ", inside the terminal barrel.
Next, use a Hammer and a piece of heavy gauge Steel ( I used a 12 Gauge piece ). Hammer - WHACK away at the barrel, to make it as FLAT as you can make it !!.
Once securely / satisfactorily flattened, NEXT - DO solder one end. Allow solder to flow into the barrel's end some, and cool. ( I use a Weller Soldering Gun, a 120 VAC model, on it's 325 Watt rated level. )
NOW, you have done a commendable job, without access to a large heavy-duty industrial vise.
It is quick, easy to do. And you will KNOW to be mentally proud of your finished result when done !!!
Who will be the first person in all of India, to construct, evaluate, and report on the TRIO speaker wires, as outlined herein ??
I procured some wire in 12 and 14AWG. Jeff's recipe of using 12+12+14 which comes to 10.5 mm2 was out of bounds as my full ranger comes with a spring-loaded push-type binding post and will not accept anything more than 8mm. So I twisted a pair of 12AWG per terminal (8 mm2), I didn't care much for keeping the wires separated (as suggested) and went ahead braiding them.
These cables are tough! the sheath is thin, but the wire is strong and not easily malleable, unlike a typical multi-strand. This wire behaves more like a solid core wire, and the braiding wasn't easy. The strands are strong and thick.
Once the braiding was complete and terminated with spades, the wire was hooked-up. The effect of changing a cable was more drastic than I had expected. The imaging was off!
Slouched back on my sofa in annoyance, I listened to it for a while wondering what could've happened. I rechecked all the connections, and they were solid. I moved the speakers around, but nothing did it.
It was already late, and my fingers were hurting from stripping and braiding the wires.
I woke up earlier than expected today with the enigma still in my mind. It dawned on me to change the polarity of the cable on the speaker that was softer, and BANG! there it was; everything was perfect once again. In my callousness, while braiding the cables, I forgot to mark the negative and positive wires, and ended up running my fingers along the cable to locate the pairings, and still goofed up one of the cables.
So, using this wire in the fashion that you did does make sense and it looks beautiful. But here’s where what you did you’ll want to change. The silver plated military spec wire will add the highs and detail. But you now own basically what all speaker cable companies offer a standard maybe a sub-standard. Those that have built these cables will tell at first listening (what just happened to my stereo? Is this actually possible?) I personally replace a set of Reality Cables www.realitycables.com there not cheap and did great things better than many I’ve heard. When I built and installed Jeff’s cable design it wasn’t something I was expecting! Simply said, a much larger stage, w/ amazing clarity and detail/ air needless to say I never went back! $450 retail cables vs $75 usd
Now, why separate the + from the -? This is where the 2 signals stop cancelling each other out and travel cleanly without interruption to the speaker, it probably one of the most incredible things you’ll experience. So please buy some binding post for you speakers install them or find someone who can and unbraid the cables you will only be even more amazed with them.
Has anyone built and listened to TRIOS as described in this thread?? So far, it seems like after almost three months, no F.M. has built and heard my suggestion. This is mind boggling, in a country the size of India, 1.4 Billion people, not one person seems to be giving this a serious listen.
Reports from people who have built and compared TRIOS, mostly in the USA, number ten out of ten, all favorable. As a music lover, wouldn't a product with a 100% positive user - record, cause someone to be intellectually curious, move on this and report back to all F.Ms, about what they have experienced.???
I am available through F.M. mail. to assist anyone, answer questions. So far in all of India, only Hari Iyer has these to hear.
I made his TRIOS and gave them to him as a " thank you " for helping me order R-Core transformers from Shilchar.
Has anyone built and listened to TRIOS as described in this thread?? So far, it seems like after almost three months, no F.M. has built and heard my suggestion. This is mind boggling, in a country the size of India, 1.4 Billion people, not one person seems to be giving this a serious listen.
Reports from people who have built and compared TRIOS, mostly in the USA, number ten out of ten, all favorable. As a music lover, wouldn't a product with a 100% positive user - record, cause someone to be intellectually curious, move on this and report back to all F.Ms, about what they have experienced.???
I am available through F.M. mail. to assist anyone, answer questions. So far in all of India, only Hari Iyer has these to hear.
I made his TRIOS and gave them to him as a " thank you " for helping me order R-Core transformers from Shilchar.
wow.....the population of US is about 0.33 billion and 10 out of them have tried and reported positively about your Trio cable which translates to roughly 0.00000001% of the population. Don't you think that is a staggeringly low figure.
In such a case, you should not be disappointed that no one from the 1.4 billion in India have so far not reported back.
I think apart from Hari, @aeroash has made the cable (albeit a little differently) and posted in this thread, but is yet to provide a detailed feedback.
I might have tried, but sadly my current setup has no interconnects or speaker cables.
wow.....the population of US is about 0.33 billion and 10 out of them have tried and reported positively about your Trio cable which translates to roughly 0.00000001% of the population. Don't you think that is a staggeringly low figure.
In such a case, you should not be disappointed that no one from the 1.4 billion in India have so far not reported back.
I think apart from Hari, @aeroash has made the cable (albeit a little differently) and posted in this thread, but is yet to provide a detailed feedback.
I might have tried, but sadly my current setup has no interconnects or speaker cables.
However, none of the ten got their TRIOS as a result of any public posts, but rather, only from my personal verbal urging / suggestion. The TRIO wire build was disclosed openly on HFV. State-of-the-art and valuable information made public, similar to two-stage amps' mus multiplying to 400 - for optimized playback.
Each shared publicly to hopefully enhance our long term mental involvement, and continuous joy with audio playback in our homes..
First, determine the correct amounts of wire you will need to use.
All below is, length-wise speaking, for a two Fulton Length ( 114 ¼ inch / 9.52 feet ) amplifier-to-speaker wire set.
Wire bundles are made as 12+12+14 AWG m22759/11 runs, each length is 114 ¼ inches or 9.52 feet.
A trio of wire is for ONE speaker polarity. For stereo speakers we need a set of four polarity bundles ( of trios ) total, a positive and negative polarity, for each stereo speaker.
Four polarity bundles, times 3 in a bundle, is 12 individual lead lengths total.
Eight leads are of 12 AWG, four leads are 14 AWG. Each lead's length is 9.52 feet.
You realize, we need 12 leads times 9.52 feet lengths of wire, or 114.24 feet TOTAL.
8 leads @12 AWG is 76.16 feet of 12 AWG. 4 leads of 14 AWG is 38.08 feet of 14 AWG.
NEXT :
Contemplate and decide upon outer sheathing teflon jacket COLORS that you will accept.
The Purchase.
Two cost-effective sources. “ Steve” the owner of “ Apex Jr. ” in Torrance, California , has the best surplus-priced inventory selection at about the lowest of prices. Selected sellers on eBay auctions, is the second best source, when skillfully selected.
The only problem with Steve is he has gotten popular for supplying this wire, and he runs out of cost effective ( to him ) inventories specifically labeled m22759/11. Steve has researched m22759/11 and in many more instances, he may substitute another Mil Spec number, where the wire supposedly has the same technical characteristics. He will disclose this - if you ask him. Steve is honest !! Best prices typically.
If you prefer no substitutes ( with the m22759/11 being written on the outside teflon jacket of such Mil Spec wire ), buy it “ surplus ” yourself, direct on eBay. It can be auction priced, wildly..... high, retail, or discounted surplus, depending upon the Seller.
Ebay TIPS :
You start with 12 AWG. Seek to spend under a dollar a foot, including shipping. Only consider and eBay search for those auctions, in your color/s. Need 76.16 feet of 12 AWG. Sellers will auction entire reels ( too much ) , sometimes 150 or 100 feet, still on the reel, or sometimes a bit less, still on the reel. Other times, Sellers will list same wire in different lengths and costs.......eg: 50 feet bundles, 25 feet bundles and ten feet bundles.
For your 76.16 feet need, please DO open up auctions of these 25 feet and over bundles, and observe HOW MANY multiple bundles the seller has. Then, write to seller and ask if these multiple ( eg , 25 foot ) bundles are already CUT, or if he still has a longer amount UNCUT. If his price per foot is good, right AWG, right color, consider committing … to his one long length, eg : four multiples of his uncut 25 foot bundles.
Same procedure as above, applies for your needed 38.08 feet of 14 AWG Mil Spec wire. Not quite as costly per foot as 12 AWG.
You have to juggle shipping cost, at all times, and shipping cost in total to you. It is dynamic !!
You will often have to look at several auctions, so take notes, and it is best to commit once (after )ALL your needs are possible to fulfill. Maybe even combine with Steve at Apex Jr. on the telephone, and / or eBay sellers, to make your actual commitment, financially.
You lightly twist neatly each trio / polarity of 12+12+14 together. But you should never let your finished positive and negative polarity lead bundles touch each other, one time in the installation, from the amplifier to your speaker's binding posts. It loses highs - on one touch. I strip 5/8ths of an inch of teflon off each wire end, and solder the stripped ends and neatly twisted trio into a copper spade lug. Eg: eBay auction search words “ 4 gauge copper lug. ”
Consider ordering some extra 12 AWG perhaps, and a little 14 AWG to wire inside components, and to make up 9.52 feet 12 AWG AC cables, hook up woofers, etc. Report back please.`
Have fun, this is something for the m22759/11 buyer alone, to do - for himself. This wire is very good sounding on my system, and also on the others we have applied it to so far. No guarantee comes.
I’m searching on eBay and see a few variants of MIL SPEC WIRE M22759/11-12-4, M22759/11-12-6 etc for the 12AWG. What do the -2, -4, -6 etc mean? Which one should I go for? Similarly for 14AWG too.
Also you recommend the lead polarities not to touch. Is there a minimum distance you suggest to keep the TRIO leads to be kept apart? If so any ideas how to do that?
I’m searching on eBay and see a few variants of MIL SPEC WIRE M22759/11-12-4, M22759/11-12-6 etc for the 12AWG. What do the -2, -4, -6 etc mean? Which one should I go for? Similarly for 14AWG too.
Easy to answer. The last dash is 0 to 9, and represents the COLOR , using the standard numbers of the wire ( or resistor ) color code. Look it up on line.
Also you recommend the lead polarities not to touch. Is there a minimum distance you suggest to keep the TRIO leads to be kept apart? If so any ideas how to do that?
!/8th of an inch, minimum distance to maybe eight inches maximum. ( The late Pierre Sprey, RIP, uses eight inches continuous , but not I ).
Varying the distance apart on the 9.52 foot path to the speaker is good, as the asymmetry breaks up waves and fields. Plain white or black string, attached from the ceiling with a screwed in hook in the plaster, and tied to each M22759/11 TRIO, as needed, is the best way to position the path, with least negative impact on the wires.
" Auntie Enid " the writer for "The Absolute Sound" in the 1970s, did it that precise way, when I visited her apartment in Los Angeles. RIP, her name was Enid Lumley, and was a true- blue DIY audiophile / careful optimizer of things, by listening. Fun woman !!
You are welcome. Feel free to ask questions of me Sree, on how to BEST build these, anytime, on Forum or by HFV private mail. I'll assist . We also like to run double 12s and a single 16 , each 57 1/8th inches long, after the crossover, to the two polarities of the woofer and tweeter - drivers, NO touch !!
Easy to answer. The last dash is 0 to 9, and represents the COLOR , using the standard numbers of the wire ( or resistor ) color code. Look it up on line.
!/8th of an inch, minimum distance to maybe eight inches maximum. ( The late Pierre Sprey, RIP, uses eight inches continuous , but not I ).
Varying the distance apart on the 9.52 foot path to the speaker is good, as the asymmetry breaks up waves and fields. Plain white or black string, attached from the ceiling with a screwed in hook in the plaster, and tied to each M22759/11 TRIO, as needed, is the best way to position the path, with least negative impact on the wires.
" Auntie Enid " the writer for "The Absolute Sound" in the 1970s, did it that precise way, when I visited her apartment in Los Angeles. RIP, her name was Enid Lumley, and was a true- blue DIY audiophile / careful optimizer of things, by listening. Fun woman !!
You are welcome. Feel free to ask questions of me Sree, on how to BEST build these, anytime, on Forum or by HFV private mail. I'll assist . We also like to run double 12s and a single 16 , each 57 1/8th inches long, after the crossover, to the two polarities of the woofer and tweeter - drivers, NO touch !!
This photo is from late 2018, when I was " learning ". Critque : The cable ends are stripped too long, and I did not need so much solder.
It is important to fully CRUSH the barrel of the ring terminal against the three bared-wire ends. A heavy duty industrial vice - is nicest. In lieu of that, multiple hammer blows. I seem to recall, using 4 AWG sized all copper ring terminals with a 5/16ths of an inch ring. See earlier in this thread, to double-check suggested ring terminal size.
This 2018 photo is of my own high-transfer-efficiency ( low loss ) DIY 12 dB / octave Butterworth passive speaker crossover, under construction. It is for my ALTEC VOTT A7-8 home system. Many terminations are present to view. You can do it nicer !!
When one TWISTS a TRIO polarity, just terminate well ( as shown above ) , one end only. Very securely wood screw that ring terminal end to a large tree outdoors, and chuck the other end's three wires into as portable electric drill, tightly.
Lean back with your torso and body mass's weight, holding the three wires tightly suspended. Use the drill to do all the neat, uniform twisting in just a few minutes time, with NO unwanted twists present. A single-polarity two Fulton Length ( 9.52 foot ) TRIO speaker lead actually sounds better, when twisted, but NOT too tightly.
Remember, a single polarity twists about once per inch, but the two polarities do NOT ever touch each other even ONE time, on the way from the amplifier to the speaker's crossover !!!!!!!
See this thread's Chubby Checker post, who was named by his family in the era of rock and roll / blues singer, Fats Domino. Chubby happily married Miss World !
www.hifivision.com
