sachu888
Well-Known Member
+1 to above.Twisted pair of Cat5/Cat6 are also good for short length.
Regards,
Sachin
Pass B1
- Thread starter sachu888
- Start date
+1 to above.Twisted pair of Cat5/Cat6 are also good for short length.
Regards,
Sachin
Santy, though shielded wires are good they are tricky to handle. In that case shield is only connected to one end (starting point of signal) and disconnected at other end. This avoids ground loop. The existing ground wires are required as they are star grounded from PS ground.
Here you are okay for using CAT6 because there are no gain stages so no signal level difference to jump here and there. So enjoy music!
Here you are okay for using CAT6 because there are no gain stages so no signal level difference to jump here and there. So enjoy music!
spirovious
Well-Known Member
Superb work Santy,it reminds me Onkyo AVRs.
sachu888
Well-Known Member
I still have few B1 kits.
Regards,
Sachin
Regards,
Sachin
koushik
Well-Known Member
Hi Sachin,
Can you please let me know what is pot value? Is it a ALPS pot?
What is the total cost of the kit and what will be included. A pic will do instead of the list
Thanks,
Koushik.
Can you please let me know what is pot value? Is it a ALPS pot?
What is the total cost of the kit and what will be included. A pic will do instead of the list
Thanks,
Koushik.
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sachu888
Well-Known Member
Hi Sachin,
Can you please let me know what is pot value? Is it a ALPS pot?
What is the total cost of the kit and what will be included. A pic will do instead of the list
Thanks,
Koushik.
Hi Koushik,
All parts are very good quality,even JFTs are match quad of Toshiba Sk170bl.Please note that most of the sellers on ebay either have fake JFTS or provide GR series of JFETS which are way inferier to BL series.few highlights of B1 kit:
Matched quad of Toshiba Sk170bl
1UF Panasonic PP caps
11uf Axon PP Caps
15kuf Cornell Dubellier caps
Very good quality double sided B1 board
All metal film resisters
I provide very good quality duel gang POT from TE 27ESB473MMF50NF - TE CONNECTIVITY / CITEC - POTENTIOMETER, D/GANG LOG 47K | Newark
All parts have been bought from authorised sellers only(no ebay).You can check pic here http://www.hifivision.com/diy/21036-pass-b1-134.html
Regards,
Sachin
TheCoolestOne
Active Member
koushik
Well-Known Member
Yes, you are right and I am quite aware of that.
Actually BL, V and GR are not degradation but they are grades with different Idss. IDss classification GR: 2.6~6.5 mA, BL: 6.0~12 mA, V: 10~20 mA. So each 2SK170xx has some Idss range.
But there are tolerances and mostly all eBay Chinese and Hong Kong sellers are selling all fakes made from copied Die. Wrong part not only noisy but never give correct sound signature. People start cribbing about B1 after using these kind of parts.
But there are tolerances and mostly all eBay Chinese and Hong Kong sellers are selling all fakes made from copied Die. Wrong part not only noisy but never give correct sound signature. People start cribbing about B1 after using these kind of parts.
The selector circuit is not working properly. Power supply is fine. Switch is fine. The LED flashes for a fraction of a second while switching. B1 is working fine- I checked by bypassing the selector board. Any troubleshooting suggested?
Sent from my GT-I9001 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my GT-I9001 using Tapatalk 2
Please post closeup pic from top.
Oops I just removed the input of B1 from selector and directly soldered to the one of the input terminals to start listening. But you can see all other connections.
One more strange observation: After 3-4 seconds of switching off the mains, the LEDs connected to the switch lights up correctly as per switch position and stays for another 10 seconds or so before fading off. Again this happens only when music is still playing. Goes off when it is paused. Strange
The green+white wire is just removed from input.
One more strange observation: After 3-4 seconds of switching off the mains, the LEDs connected to the switch lights up correctly as per switch position and stays for another 10 seconds or so before fading off. Again this happens only when music is still playing. Goes off when it is paused. Strange
The green+white wire is just removed from input.
Does it selects proper input or not? Is this only LED problem?
okay,
1. I assume polarity of LED is correct (anode/cathode) and
2. you have placed new selector switch. C
3. Can you please check if blue wire (position 1 on board) to switch is carrying +ve 12V.
4. Check each position wire is returning that +ve 12V from switch to PCB after selection that position in switch.
5. Check all soldering point of relays.
Most important, power supply polarity is correct, +ve and -ve
okay,
1. I assume polarity of LED is correct (anode/cathode) and
2. you have placed new selector switch. C
3. Can you please check if blue wire (position 1 on board) to switch is carrying +ve 12V.
4. Check each position wire is returning that +ve 12V from switch to PCB after selection that position in switch.
5. Check all soldering point of relays.
Most important, power supply polarity is correct, +ve and -ve
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Om
I clearly remember, the selector board was working with the previous switch before it was damaged. After removing it, I used to short the blue wire with other wires, the corresponding LED used to light up properly. I could clearly hear the clicking sound of the relay. LED and PS polarity are right, I am very sure.
Now when the switch is engaged at position 1, the blue wire, ie output wire (and the corresponding input wire which is green) carries 5.4 Volts. When the switch is in any other position, blue wire carries and corresponding that feed it carries 0.1 V only.
EDIT: No this is not only LED problem. The switching is not happening. Hence no sound.
I clearly remember, the selector board was working with the previous switch before it was damaged. After removing it, I used to short the blue wire with other wires, the corresponding LED used to light up properly. I could clearly hear the clicking sound of the relay. LED and PS polarity are right, I am very sure.
Now when the switch is engaged at position 1, the blue wire, ie output wire (and the corresponding input wire which is green) carries 5.4 Volts. When the switch is in any other position, blue wire carries and corresponding that feed it carries 0.1 V only.
EDIT: No this is not only LED problem. The switching is not happening. Hence no sound.
Remove that switch, and measure that blue wire at position 1 is +ve voltage. I remember its +12V wrt ground. If not then there is problem. That blue wire is connected to common terminal on switch where switch connects it to different points marked 2-6 on PCB. That turns respective LED and relay on.
For the ground reference, you can use the middle terminal of the 7812 regulator
chip, or the V- terminal on the "RegV-out" label on the left side of the PCB.
Blue wire to Ground should be 12V.
Desolder blue wire from the switch and then measure it.
I would suggest to disconnect the LEDs also and try.
The selector is a very simple circuit, and not much to fail in it.
chip, or the V- terminal on the "RegV-out" label on the left side of the PCB.
Blue wire to Ground should be 12V.
Desolder blue wire from the switch and then measure it.
I would suggest to disconnect the LEDs also and try.
The selector is a very simple circuit, and not much to fail in it.
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I guess figured out the problem. The regulator IC L7812 seems to be not working. The output is only 5.4V. I shorted the input and output terminals using a metal pincher, the circuit worked fine at around 13.3 v (except for position 1). What should I do now? Can I simply remove the IC and short the end points on the board or should I get a replacement IC? And if only the first position does not switch, what could be the problem?
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Replace the 7812 IC. Wonder why it went dead.
Look for any shorts or reverse polarity on diodes/LEDs.
For first position, pl disconnect the LED and check.
Worst case, replace the 2n2222 transistor. It should be quite cheap and easily
available.
Look for any shorts or reverse polarity on diodes/LEDs.
For first position, pl disconnect the LED and check.
Worst case, replace the 2n2222 transistor. It should be quite cheap and easily
available.
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Santy, I notice you have one unused channel.
So in the worst case, you can skip the first relay/channel on the PCB, and use
channels 2,3,4,5. So the green, yellow, orange, red wires each need to be
shifted one position to the right.
But before you do that, do the easy checks - disconnect the LED, and check
the IN4148 diode (near the relay) for shorts.
So in the worst case, you can skip the first relay/channel on the PCB, and use
channels 2,3,4,5. So the green, yellow, orange, red wires each need to be
shifted one position to the right.
But before you do that, do the easy checks - disconnect the LED, and check
the IN4148 diode (near the relay) for shorts.
A beautiful, well-constructed speaker with class-leading soundstage, imaging and bass that is fast, deep, and precise.
