Xiaomi to launch Mi TV Q1 75" on 23rd March - QLED, 192 Zones, 120Hz

[maxms]

ok. got it. missed your last post earlier. 8747 is EMI discount which i think is discount given on EMI interest charged. but EMI amount mentioned is 9500x12. which translates to 1,14,000

 

[sandeepmohan]

Tv number 3 arrived today, completing my second replacement. Some points and clarifications that i wanted to bring up:
1. The issue of only 1080p 60 hz display mentioned by me yesterday was resolved in the old detective tv itself. I had to refresh the EDID switch in my Orei splitter
2. While ARC implementation seems to be dodgy, others have had success with Marantz and other AVRs. I am inclined to provide the benefit of doubt to Xiaomi as it could be a handshake issue with my Yamaha. Besides, i was overlooking the fact that there was a splitter in the whole chain of components
3. I am observing lot of pixellation in sd content and archival footage in services like discovery+. Is this normal due to the upscaling process?
4. I see motion judder in certain slow panning shots. Is this something we have to live with? Are any of you using the motion smoothing options different?

I just need a crisp, vibrant and big display. I'd much rather leave the heavy lifting to any one of the streaming/gaming devices attached to my AVR. Hope to put the replacements behind and start enjoying the tv!
Cheers

I have mentioned this a few times earlier. If you can, borrow a HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 cable and check for reliability with ARC. Even the cheapest cable will do. Just a reputed manufacturer or make. I use a legacy receiver too which goes up to HDMI 1.4 only and its connected to a HDMI 2.0 TV. I could not get ARC to work at all. Some have said it works and the audio stutters. In my case, no audio at all. All I did was buy a new HDMI 2.0 cable and the problem vanished as soon as I plugged it in. I did not do anything else. Like some others who reported, I did not know what HDMI cable version I was using earlier. It was just some cable that I had and was using for the last 4 years, reliably with my Samsung htib. Arc worked without a hitch.

HDMI as is, has been dodgy from day one. Its a combination of all the software and hardware version and releases that complicates things. Not to forget, all the licensing agreements one has to pay for it to work.

Ignore the pixelation for SD content. That is how it will be. No TV can magically correct that. You may actually see pixellation with HD content too owing to the size of the screen. I can see grain and pixellation even on a 55" TV with streaming content. Even the best of TV's have this and can be corrected only with external software processing. Yes; poor upscaling can cause that problem. I tend not to bother upscaling as it only ruins the image.

Your TV is rated at 120 Mhz, artificially enhanced refresh rate. Its basically frame insertion. The manufacturer does not publish the native refresh rate and I doubt if its higher than 60hz considering the cost of the TV. Depending on what you are watching, you will experience some or very poor motion handling. The only way to know the true capability of the TV's motion handling is to feed a Blu Ray disc. I don't use motion smoothing even on my Sony, which is pretty well implemented. Its weird looking and that film motion looks artificial. Some folks like it, more for bragging rights on making the TV look good. In my view, its all marketing nonsense. Very few TV's get this right and if you want the ultimate, the TV must do 100 or 120hz native refresh rate (Not via software).

For the misinformed, folks who make their judgement on a product based on theoretical benchmarks such as nit rating, dxomark, etc and all that nonsense, you need to take all of that with a grain of salt. To clear the air, I work in visual effects. We use nothing less than the best cameras, lenses, projectors and TV's. For us, none of these ratings matter. It is a mere guide for a product. All we care about is if a display is color accurate and if it can be calibrated. In this space, there are only 6 names that come up. Eizo, LG, Panasonic, JVC, HP Dreamcolor and Sony. We used Pioneer Kuro's back in the day as they were the best. Then we moved to Panasonic and now we are on LG C1's. The LG's are the best to date and have been consistent in their panels for the last 4 years. By the way, we can't reliably calibrate even a TV like this. Its a hit or miss. Once we do calibrate, they stay on and are never switched off as if you do, you lose the calibration settings. They are left on always, even if no content is playing on them. At the most, if we care lucky, we may get 26,000 hours of reliable screen life. That is about 3 years of not turning of the TV post which the panel just burns out and we get washed colors. This is no good for us. For someone to tell me that the TV being discussed here is the best of its kind, you must be joking. If that's what you can afford, I can understand. We all have our budgets. Personally; I cannot buy a TV like this. One that is unproven in the field. That too from a manufacturer who's is relatively unknown in the space of building TV's. If the product was so good, the whole world will be buying it. What I see here is a purchase primarily for its low price and screen real estate. It means nothing to me. I will be content and happy with a smaller screen that is proven to perform better. Not a blind buy or based on some random internet review. You don't buy a TV for the short term. You buy one that will be consistent in its performance and you want some kind of manufacturer support well beyond the warranty. I can guarantee that will be non existent with this brand. If 75" is the TV you want and this is the only TV you can afford, go ahead and buy one. All I ask is look at what else you can buy for similar money and lesser screen real estate from some of the known names in TV. You won't regret it. Its your hard earned money. Don't throw it away like that.

 

[vikrantxtrad]

I have mentioned this a few times earlier. If you can, borrow a HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 cable and check for reliability with ARC. Even the cheapest cable will do. Just a reputed manufacturer or make. I use a legacy receiver too which goes up to HDMI 1.4 only and its connected to a HDMI 2.0 TV. I could not get ARC to work at all. Some have said it works and the audio stutters. In my case, no audio at all. All I did was buy a new HDMI 2.0 cable and the problem vanished as soon as I plugged it in. I did not do anything else. Like some others who reported, I did not know what HDMI cable version I was using earlier. It was just some cable that I had and was using for the last 4 years, reliably with my Samsung htib. Arc worked without a hitch.

HDMI as is, has been dodgy from day one. Its a combination of all the software and hardware version and releases that complicates things. Not to forget, all the licensing agreements one has to pay for it to work.

Ignore the pixelation for SD content. That is how it will be. No TV can magically correct that. You may actually see pixellation with HD content too owing to the size of the screen. I can see grain and pixellation even on a 55" TV with streaming content. Even the best of TV's have this and can be corrected only with external software processing. Yes; poor upscaling can cause that problem. I tend not to bother upscaling as it only ruins the image.

Your TV is rated at 120 Mhz, artificially enhanced refresh rate. Its basically frame insertion. The manufacturer does not publish the native refresh rate and I doubt if its higher than 60hz considering the cost of the TV. Depending on what you are watching, you will experience some or very poor motion handling. The only way to know the true capability of the TV's motion handling is to feed a Blu Ray disc. I don't use motion smoothing even on my Sony, which is pretty well implemented. Its weird looking and that film motion looks artificial. Some folks like it, more for bragging rights on making the TV look good. In my view, its all marketing nonsense. Very few TV's get this right and if you want the ultimate, the TV must do 100 or 120hz native refresh rate (Not via software).

For the misinformed, folks who make their judgement on a product based on theoretical benchmarks such as nit rating, dxomark, etc and all that nonsense, you need to take all of that with a grain of salt. To clear the air, I work in visual effects. We use nothing less than the best cameras, lenses, projectors and TV's. For us, none of these ratings matter. It is a mere guide for a product. All we care about is if a display is color accurate and if it can be calibrated. In this space, there are only 6 names that come up. Eizo, LG, Panasonic, JVC, HP Dreamcolor and Sony. We used Pioneer Kuro's back in the day as they were the best. Then we moved to Panasonic and now we are on LG C1's. The LG's are the best to date and have been consistent in their panels for the last 4 years. By the way, we can't reliably calibrate even a TV like this. Its a hit or miss. Once we do calibrate, they stay on and are never switched off as if you do, you lose the calibration settings. They are left on always, even if no content is playing on them. At the most, if we care lucky, we may get 26,000 hours of reliable screen life. That is about 3 years of not turning of the TV post which the panel just burns out and we get washed colors. This is no good for us. For someone to tell me that the TV being discussed here is the best of its kind, you must be joking. If that's what you can afford, I can understand. We all have our budgets. Personally; I cannot buy a TV like this. One that is unproven in the field. That too from a manufacturer who's is relatively unknown in the space of building TV's. If the product was so good, the whole world will be buying it. What I see here is a purchase primarily for its low price and screen real estate. It means nothing to me. I will be content and happy with a smaller screen that is proven to perform better. Not a blind buy or based on some random internet review. You don't buy a TV for the short term. You buy one that will be consistent in its performance and you want some kind of manufacturer support well beyond the warranty. I can guarantee that will be non existent with this brand. If 75" is the TV you want and this is the only TV you can afford, go ahead and buy one. All I ask is look at what else you can buy for similar money and lesser screen real estate from some of the known names in TV. You won't regret it. Its your hard earned money. Don't throw it away like that.

Your TV is rated at 120 Mhz, artificially enhanced refresh rate. Its basically frame insertion. The manufacturer does not publish the native refresh rate and I doubt if its higher than 60hz considering the cost of the TV. Depending on what you are watching, you will experience some or very poor motion handling. The only way to know the true capability of the TV's motion handling is to feed a Blu Ray disc. I don't use motion smoothing even on my Sony, which is pretty well implemented. Its weird looking and that film motion looks artificial. Some folks like it, more for bragging rights on making the TV look good. In my view, its all marketing nonsense. Very few TV's get this right and if you want the ultimate, the TV must do 100 or 120hz native refresh rate (Not via software). @lightgamer you must read this lol.

Let me tell you for the final time on this forum, the native refresh rate of this panel is 120hz. You should have atleast checked previous posts.
And why are you adding 26,000 hours figure, when it's already told than even Samsung uses same panels. Life will be same for all. I have also calibrated this display long time ago and about other TVs I own Sony OLED myself in bedroom. Plus I am tired of saying bruhhh, atleast see the TV before commenting on PQ.
You don't buy this TV bro. No one is forcing you but your post is absolutely false with facts.

 

[Rajeev-23]

For the misinformed, folks who make their judgement on a product based on theoretical benchmarks such as nit rating, dxomark, etc and all that nonsense, you need to take all of that with a grain of salt. To clear the air, I work in visual effects. We use nothing less than the best cameras, lenses, projectors and TV's. For us, none of these ratings matter. It is a mere guide for a product. All we care about is if a display is color accurate and if it can be calibrated. In this space, there are only 6 names that come up. Eizo, LG, Panasonic, JVC, HP Dreamcolor and Sony. We used Pioneer Kuro's back in the day as they were the best. Then we moved to Panasonic and now we are on LG C1's. The LG's are the best to date and have been consistent in their panels for the last 4 years. By the way, we can't reliably calibrate even a TV like this. Its a hit or miss. Once we do calibrate, they stay on and are never switched off as if you do, you lose the calibration settings. They are left on always, even if no content is playing on them. At the most, if we care lucky, we may get 26,000 hours of reliable screen life. That is about 3 years of not turning of the TV post which the panel just burns out and we get washed colors. This is no good for us. For someone to tell me that the TV being discussed here is the best of its kind, you must be joking. If that's what you can afford, I can understand. We all have our budgets. Personally; I cannot buy a TV like this. One that is unproven in the field. That too from a manufacturer who's is relatively unknown in the space of building TV's. If the product was so good, the whole world will be buying it. What I see here is a purchase primarily for its low price and screen real estate. It means nothing to me. I will be content and happy with a smaller screen that is proven to perform better. Not a blind buy or based on some random internet review. You don't buy a TV for the short term. You buy one that will be consistent in its performance and you want some kind of manufacturer support well beyond the warranty. I can guarantee that will be non existent with this brand. If 75" is the TV you want and this is the only TV you can afford, go ahead and buy one. All I ask is look at what else you can buy for similar money and lesser screen real estate from some of the known names in TV. You won't regret it. Its your hard earned money. Don't throw it away like that

Bro Relax!!! No one is saying that mi q1 is the best tv ever made. We r saying this is the best 75 inch tv under 2 lakhs in India. If I have the money then I will go and buy 75 inch OLED.
Dont ever think Xiaomi is a cheap brand . Xiaomi started in India on 2012 and in q3 2017 they overtook Samsung to be no 1 smartphone brand in India. In the same time big brands like Sony and LG are trying very hard but not succeeding in mobile business. So don’t talk about manufacturers history and support and all. Yes they r new to TV business but they can become success like smartphone business.
Do not blindly hate the brand. At least go and see the demo once and talk about the tv. We r here to help the fellow members.

 

[neogen]

Did further set of experiment and lot of forum digging & research. The problem is with Dolby Digital plus over ARC, and is not limited to any particular AVR brand. Even Denon has its fair share of problem:

https://www.avforums.com/threads/cannot-get-dd-or-dts-audio-any-suggestions.2286940/

https://www.avforums.com/threads/dd-over-arc-denon-1913.2311093/

There seems to be ARC handshaking issue that happens between TV and Receiver when its DD+. In this case of MI TV the handshake happens for DD+, however, moment you play/pause/play the connection breaks and one has to toggle between the source. That's why even in some cases when firestick is configured to provide DD+ the problem occurs, with DD there is no problem at all.

From various threads, it seems like that certain TVs who haven't properly implemented backward compatibility have this issue. A properly baked TV shouldn't have such glaring problems.

What MI could do is that for HDMI (ARC) provide DD output as well along with PCM and passthrough. They have provided this for SPDIF BTW.

 

[vikrantxtrad]

Bro Relax!!! No one is saying that mi q1 is the best tv ever made. We r saying this is the best 75 inch tv under 2 lakhs in India. If I have the money then I will go and buy 75 inch OLED.
Dont ever think Xiaomi is a cheap brand . Xiaomi started in India on 2012 and in q3 2017 they overtook Samsung to be no 1 smartphone brand in India. In the same time big brands like Sony and LG are trying very hard but not succeeding in mobile business. So don’t talk about manufacturers history and support and all. Yes they r new to TV business but they can become success like smartphone business.
Do not blindly hate the brand. At least go and see the demo once and talk about the tv. We r here to help the fellow members.

Nicely put, I too notice the blind hate. Suggest us any TV (75) better than this under 2 lakh and we can have a discussion. Plus we never said that its Godly and better than anything. Apart from software hicupps most of us aren't complaing. And i am continuously trying to send all those issues to Xiaomi. We will get 2-3 more update (minuimum) and I want it to iron out most of its issues including HDMI-ARC one.

Did further set of experiment and lot of forum digging & research. The problem is with Dolby Digital plus over ARC, and is not limited to any particular AVR brand. Even Denon has its fair share of problem:

https://www.avforums.com/threads/cannot-get-dd-or-dts-audio-any-suggestions.2286940/

https://www.avforums.com/threads/dd-over-arc-denon-1913.2311093/

There seems to be ARC handshaking issue that happens between TV and Receiver when its DD+. In this case of MI TV the handshake happens for DD+, however, moment you play/pause/play the connection breaks and one has to toggle between the source. That's why even in some cases when firestick is configured to provide DD+ the problem occurs, with DD there is no problem at all.

From various threads, it seems like that certain TVs who haven't properly implemented backward compatibility have this issue. A properly baked TV shouldn't have such glaring problems.

What MI could do is that for HDMI (ARC) provide DD output as well along with PCM and passthrough. They have provided this for SPDIF BTW.

Could you inform this to Xiaomi? I think they will listen if we describe it well. It would be really helpful.

 

[Maint1234]

What about the best 75" tv under 50000 ? Why 2 lakhs ? Not logical. Criteria should be pq , longevity, support and compatibility. Sound is bad in all.
Manufacturers save on testing during the manufacturing process. I am from a mfg industry and 30 % of our cost is the quality assurance equipment and process. Imagine if we stop testing our costs reduce by 30 %. If our target customers were happy with that we could become very competitive overnight.
With Chinese companies the consumer is already mentally prepared for potential failure and a sub standard experience. So the emphasis on price. Once the consumers start demanding exacting quality, the costs for these mfrs will automatically go up , as we have seen with the more expensive products from cos like Xiaomi.

 

[manindra.mukherjee]

I have mentioned this a few times earlier. If you can, borrow a HDMI 2.0 or 2.1 cable and check for reliability with ARC. Even the cheapest cable will do. Just a reputed manufacturer or make. I use a legacy receiver too which goes up to HDMI 1.4 only and its connected to a HDMI 2.0 TV. I could not get ARC to work at all. Some have said it works and the audio stutters. In my case, no audio at all. All I did was buy a new HDMI 2.0 cable and the problem vanished as soon as I plugged it in. I did not do anything else. Like some others who reported, I did not know what HDMI cable version I was using earlier. It was just some cable that I had and was using for the last 4 years, reliably with my Samsung htib. Arc worked without a hitch.

HDMI as is, has been dodgy from day one. Its a combination of all the software and hardware version and releases that complicates things. Not to forget, all the licensing agreements one has to pay for it to work.

Ignore the pixelation for SD content. That is how it will be. No TV can magically correct that. You may actually see pixellation with HD content too owing to the size of the screen. I can see grain and pixellation even on a 55" TV with streaming content. Even the best of TV's have this and can be corrected only with external software processing. Yes; poor upscaling can cause that problem. I tend not to bother upscaling as it only ruins the image.

Your TV is rated at 120 Mhz, artificially enhanced refresh rate. Its basically frame insertion. The manufacturer does not publish the native refresh rate and I doubt if its higher than 60hz considering the cost of the TV. Depending on what you are watching, you will experience some or very poor motion handling. The only way to know the true capability of the TV's motion handling is to feed a Blu Ray disc. I don't use motion smoothing even on my Sony, which is pretty well implemented. Its weird looking and that film motion looks artificial. Some folks like it, more for bragging rights on making the TV look good. In my view, its all marketing nonsense. Very few TV's get this right and if you want the ultimate, the TV must do 100 or 120hz native refresh rate (Not via software).

For the misinformed, folks who make their judgement on a product based on theoretical benchmarks such as nit rating, dxomark, etc and all that nonsense, you need to take all of that with a grain of salt. To clear the air, I work in visual effects. We use nothing less than the best cameras, lenses, projectors and TV's. For us, none of these ratings matter. It is a mere guide for a product. All we care about is if a display is color accurate and if it can be calibrated. In this space, there are only 6 names that come up. Eizo, LG, Panasonic, JVC, HP Dreamcolor and Sony. We used Pioneer Kuro's back in the day as they were the best. Then we moved to Panasonic and now we are on LG C1's. The LG's are the best to date and have been consistent in their panels for the last 4 years. By the way, we can't reliably calibrate even a TV like this. Its a hit or miss. Once we do calibrate, they stay on and are never switched off as if you do, you lose the calibration settings. They are left on always, even if no content is playing on them. At the most, if we care lucky, we may get 26,000 hours of reliable screen life. That is about 3 years of not turning of the TV post which the panel just burns out and we get washed colors. This is no good for us. For someone to tell me that the TV being discussed here is the best of its kind, you must be joking. If that's what you can afford, I can understand. We all have our budgets. Personally; I cannot buy a TV like this. One that is unproven in the field. That too from a manufacturer who's is relatively unknown in the space of building TV's. If the product was so good, the whole world will be buying it. What I see here is a purchase primarily for its low price and screen real estate. It means nothing to me. I will be content and happy with a smaller screen that is proven to perform better. Not a blind buy or based on some random internet review. You don't buy a TV for the short term. You buy one that will be consistent in its performance and you want some kind of manufacturer support well beyond the warranty. I can guarantee that will be non existent with this brand. If 75" is the TV you want and this is the only TV you can afford, go ahead and buy one. All I ask is look at what else you can buy for similar money and lesser screen real estate from some of the known names in TV. You won't regret it. Its your hard earned money. Don't throw it away like that.

Thanks for your detailed explanation but i agree to disagree on a few points

- No one ever said that this TV is the best. Just like any other TV in the market , it too has its share of pros and cons which are well detailed in the thread. This tv is not cheap....VFM - Absolutely Yes ! You can actually pick up a TCL mini-LED 75 inch TV in US at $1430 which roughly translates to ~1.05L in local currency.

- You are correct in stating that technical specification might not be the correct representation of real world usage of the tv. But i guess the same holds true for any brand. Coming to real usage , the thread has covered fine prints of this tv in almost every possible way . It's up to an individual to take a call post going through this thread.

- Long term reliability and usage : For me , its nothing but sheer luck on whether your consumer electronics goes kaput in a year or lasts a decade. I have seen both . My LG plasma lasted over a decade and Samsung LED went bust just after the 12 months warranty was over . In a commodity mass market like consumer electronics I doubt reliability has anything to do with brand. When you source similar or same components from the same ODM , do you really think , reliability should vary significantly. What still does vary is QC where i guess the LGs and Sonys of the world might be better of. Which means out of a million TVs that Samsung and Xiaomi manufactures , Xiaomi might end up with a slightly more faulty panels and if you happen to fall within that category , you can blame your luck !

 

[vikrantxtrad]

Okay guys, so I can confirm that I am playing games at 1080p@120hz.
Attaching pics for the same.

@sandeepmohan .
And don't tell @lightgamer about reference monitor lol. He knows it. And also OLEDs are worst example for being reference, they connot produce correct whites. You need to have Plasma.
Also I own SONY OLED as my secondary TV so I think I am aware of whether we should call Mi qled 75 basement TV or not because I have compared them side by side, you will be surprised that the difference in image quality is such that sometimes OLED looks better and sometimes qled looks better. OLED looks polished, Qled looks more vibrant and punchier.
Hope this solves your 120hz doubt. Or maybe it's still software lol.

 

[lightgamer]

Can you share evidence of the panel being able to do 120 hz native, cause the manufacturer clearly states it is interpolated?

Nowhere does the manufacturer state that the panel can't do 120Hz.

What the panel can't do is do 4k 120Hz via HDMI as it doesn't have HDMI 2.1 bandwidth, so it takes 4k 60Hz signal and interpolates it to 120Hz. However, even for interpolating to 120Hz you need a 120Hz panel else how would you display it. However, it can still take input of 1080p and 1440p 120Hz.

Yes; we work with the best equipment and not cheap products on the market with a lot of marketing hype. Do your research and don't talk nonsense. Do you know who made the film Avatar? That is where I work. Its not "one of the best" production studios. It is The Best. We don't cut corners. We buy and work with the best so when we review and produce a film, mere mortals like you can enjoy it. Reference monitors that Artists use are all Eizo displays. Ever heard of the brand? I guess not! When it is presented to a larger group, the display of choice is LG. Whether you like it or not, I could not care less. What we gain out of these displays is something you can never understand, ever. I also don't remember when a LG C1 was ever considered cheap! That is news to me.

Oho, seems like I struck a nerve. C1 is cheap when compared to reference monitors which cost easily 20x what a C1 does.

C1 is an excellent display for viewing, pretty bad for grading and mastering due to ABL.

Please enjoy your bargain basement TV. I have realized that trying to put some sense into anyone here is a pointless exercise.

Finally something we both agree on.

 

[sandeepmohan]

@vikrantxtrad
The manufacturer does not claim over 60hz native for the display. It is interpolated or based on a frame insertion technic.
Depending on the Sony oled model you have, it will do native 100 or 120hz, based on input signal. Example is X90J that does 100hz, 120hz native at 2k and 4k (Not UHD). This isn't XR Motion Clarity based. Its native to the display.

 

[vikrantxtrad]

@vikrantxtrad
The manufacturer does not claim over 60hz native for the display. It is interpolated or based on a frame insertion technic.
Depending on the Sony oled model you have, it will do native 100 or 120hz, based on input signal. Example is X90J that does 100hz, 120hz native at 2k and 4k (Not UHD). This isn't XR Motion Clarity based. Its native to the display.

The manufacturer has always claimed it to be 120hz native. And I always get 120hz. Just because it cannot decode it due to processor limitations doesn't mean it's not 120hz. I have played many games at 120hz on this tv. Look at my attachment. Even Product manager clarified about it plus it's officially written on this website.

@vikrantxtrad
The manufacturer does not claim over 60hz native for the display. It is interpolated or based on a frame insertion technic.
Depending on the Sony oled model you have, it will do native 100 or 120hz, based on input signal. Example is X90J that does 100hz, 120hz native at 2k and 4k (Not UHD). This isn't XR Motion Clarity based. Its native to the display.

My Sony OLED is A8G. it's 120 hz panel but it cannot do 4k 120hz due to hardware limitations just like mi qled 75. And also wanna add, it's motion smoothing implementation is worse than MI, actually much worse.

 

[Maint1234]

That's because there's no 75" TV under 50k. Also nothing under 1 lakh. You can make it 1.5 lakhs too or 2.5 lakhs. This is the only decent TV available.

Definitely. But there's nothing to suggest that this will have worse longevity, support or compatibility than others.

Many trusted Sony will provide updates to their 2020 X900H for VRR and 4k 120 and look where we are.

It's a TV, not an HT. And good sound in TV will cost significantly more than external sound system. Not to mention an external sound system will significantly outlast the TV.

There's zero sense in putting anything more than a 2W speaker in the TV for testing and debugging unless you as a consumer likes wasting money.

No, that won't work. Now you'll have to spend resources in handling the extra RMAs from faulty products shipped. Xiaomi has pretty good customer service. And Sony and Samsung aren't better. LG is significantly better than the rest, but they are the exception.

Surely if the quality goes up, the cost goes up. But it's not linear. With Xiaomi you get 90% of the quality for 50% of the price. That's the draw. That extra 10% costs a lot of R&D, good software team and lots and lots of testing. If I as a consumer don't care about that, it's fine to buy it.

Most of your answers have no logic so wont indulge .
Pl give reference for this claim -
"Surely if the quality goes up, the cost goes up. But it's not linear. With Xiaomi you get 90% of the quality for 50% of the price. That's the draw. That extra 10% costs a lot of R&D, good software team and lots and lots of testing."

 

[jarneevan]

Can you please share the amazon product link to the wall mount?

Buy Gadget Wagon Gas Spring Dual arm Cantilever TV Mount, max vesa , 32 to 70 inches/600 x 400 mm Online at Low Prices in India - Amazon.in

Amazon.in: Buy Gadget Wagon Gas Spring Dual arm Cantilever TV Mount, max vesa , 32 to 70 inches/600 x 400 mm online at low price in India on Amazon.in. Check out Gadget Wagon Gas Spring Dual arm Cantilever TV Mount, max vesa , 32 to 70 inches/600 x 400 mm reviews, ratings, features...

www.amazon.in

I paid Rs.3400, the price seem to have gone up by 200

 

[Maint1234]

@sandeepmohan .
And don't tell @lightgamer about reference monitor lol. He knows it. And also OLEDs are worst example for being reference, they connot produce correct whites. You need to have Plasma.
Also I own SONY OLED as my secondary TV so I think I am aware of whether we should call Mi qled 75 basement TV or not because I have compared them side by side, you will be surprised that the difference in image quality is such that sometimes OLED looks better and sometimes qled looks better. OLED looks polished, Qled looks more vibrant and punchier.
Hope this solves your 120hz doubt. Or maybe it's still software lol.

Lets not confuse a punchier or brighter picture with better. Its individual perception based. I had a sony lcd for 14 years and even now the 1080p screen gives such a pleasing pq when watching movies , while another lg led tv bought in around 2012 with a brighter picture is no competition. The led panels might be the same but the processing is very different.

 

[vikrantxtrad]

Lets not confuse a punchier or brighter picture with better. Its individual perception based. I had a sony lcd for 14 years and even now the 1080p screen gives such a pleasing pq when watching movies , while another lg led tv bought in around 2012 with a brighter picture is no competition. The led panels might be the same but the processing is very different.

I believe your perception. But my Mi qled 75 is professionally calibrated and I know Sir. I have a 2017 40 inch Sony klv with X-Reality Pro. When we bought it we liked it but it's nothing close to FALD. Sony is very pleasant and better looking than its competitor but you have you understand than that it's still budget one only.

 

[manindra.mukherjee]

Did further set of experiment and lot of forum digging & research. The problem is with Dolby Digital plus over ARC, and is not limited to any particular AVR brand. Even Denon has its fair share of problem:

https://www.avforums.com/threads/cannot-get-dd-or-dts-audio-any-suggestions.2286940/

https://www.avforums.com/threads/dd-over-arc-denon-1913.2311093/

There seems to be ARC handshaking issue that happens between TV and Receiver when its DD+. In this case of MI TV the handshake happens for DD+, however, moment you play/pause/play the connection breaks and one has to toggle between the source. That's why even in some cases when firestick is configured to provide DD+ the problem occurs, with DD there is no problem at all.

From various threads, it seems like that certain TVs who haven't properly implemented backward compatibility have this issue. A properly baked TV shouldn't have such glaring problems.

What MI could do is that for HDMI (ARC) provide DD output as well along with PCM and passthrough. They have provided this for SPDIF BTW.

Did you change the cable as suggested in many forums ...I am planning to get a high speed hdmi cable and see if that works

 

[vikrantxtrad]

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[sandeepmohan]

My Sony OLED is A8G. it's 120 hz panel but it cannot do 4k 120hz due to hardware limitations just like mi qled 75. And also wanna add, it's motion smoothing implementation is worse than MI, actually much worse.

I am surprised. The A8G won't do 120hz but even at 60hz, it is outstanding for motion handling. The panel has among the lowest response times (<3ms) too so what you are saying is quite opposite to what you should experience out of the TV. You will not find such level of motion control and customizing on any budget TV. I can vouch for that. There is no one setting that will please all for this. However; leaving it all cranked up can make matters worse so it depends on the content. My reference is always Blu Ray or UHD Blu Ray.

 

[Love4sound]

My Sony OLED is A8G. it's 120 hz panel but it cannot do 4k 120hz due to hardware limitations just like mi qled 75. And also wanna add, it's motion smoothing implementation is worse than MI, actually much worse.

Not commenting on MI motion performance but what picture preset and motion settings are you using with Sony A8G. When I purchased my c9 most of the side by side demo in showrooms was with the A8g and I found motion handling even better then c9. Sony motion handling was one thing I wish my c9 had.