vikrantxtrad
Well-Known Member
I haven't written about motion handling bro, it's motion smoothing.
And for my settings-> It's film mode and motionflow set to standard, if I put it to smooth, I see stuttering every 40 sec.
Xiaomi to launch Mi TV Q1 75" on 23rd March - QLED, 192 Zones, 120Hz
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And for my settings-> It's film mode and motionflow set to standard, if I put it to smooth, I see stuttering every 40 sec.
vikrantxtrad
Well-Known Member
Please read again, I never talked about motion handling. I talked about smoothing. A8G has great motion handling but without motion enchantment it's painful. You have to turn on film mode to remove judder and stutters.
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Love4sound
Well-Known Member
Ok pardon me. So you are referring to performance of motion interpolation enabled. Even with motion interpolation enabled the A8g was class leading for me. So can you please confirm what picture preset and interpolation settings you used in both sony and MI to arrive at this conclusion?
vikrantxtrad
Well-Known Member
Sure, picture settings is set to standard as Sony does really good in it. I then enhance little more colours because it looks little undersaturated to my eyes. Interpolation is set to standard ( level 1) where it jerks sometimes and motion is set to film mode ( I am very sensitive due to gaming habbits) but if I put it to smooth ( level 3). It keeps showing artifacts and stops interpolating every 40 seconds. Same is confirmed by Rtings.
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manindra.mukherjee
Active Member
Love4sound
Well-Known Member
Ok but still I won’t say the motion interpolation is bad in Sony A8G.Stutter is something evident in oled’s for 24p contents. Some slow panning shots feels like the images are chopped due to the fast response time in Oled. You liking the MI more then 8G is fine but don’t be saying A8g is worse but rather say you find the MI to be better. We don’t want another Sony vs MI talks in this thread
vikrantxtrad
Well-Known Member
Actually I don't like both of them. Both add artifacts and make image look worse. It's just maybe due to slower processor Sony jerks a lot. Can you tell me what did you try at the Showroom? Interpolating 60hz is easier I have noticed. Plus Sony has better motion control than MI but inferior interpolation.
Love4sound
Well-Known Member
I forgot man it’s been so long. But you are using standard picture preset and boosting the colours as well which is fine but have you ever tried doing the same in other picture presets and see if the motion is better. In my c9 same motion interpolation settings in standard and cinema mode feels different. There is more soap and artifacts in standard mode vs cinema mode for same motion settings. Try calibrating your tv in cinema mode and see if you like it or not. No harm in experimenting. Standard is not accurate IMO and if your hell bent on getting an accurate image you need to start using the accurate picture preset in your tv.
vikrantxtrad
Well-Known Member
I have actually tried the custom preset. Anyways I will look once I get the time. This thread shouldn't be about Sony but some may say that I am saying Sony Bad Xiaomi Good so I gotta add
Sony OLED A8g (9.4/10)
Lg cx (9.5/10)
Mi qled 75 ( 8.2/10)
Samsung Q80r (8/10)
Samsung Q70T ( 7.1/10)
This is for picture quality. Tried putting my genuine experience.
Nope.. the issue remains with DD+ and have to toggle the source to get the sound back
vikrantxtrad
Well-Known Member
please mention it to Xiaomi.
manindra.mukherjee
Active Member
Surprisingly my Yamaha receiver only recognises audio signal when set to DD+. Doesnot work when set to PCM or DD
Sorry for the long post.
I watched John Wick 3 yesterday streamed from Lionsgate channel on AppleTV app running from the TV. The movie was in HD. I truly believe Xiaomi has created a masterpiece here considering the price it retails for. The panel appears to be genuinely good one, I suspect one might have to pay 3 to 4 times to get equivalent or better quality panel from big names.
It would be interesting to watch the same movie in one of the HDR formats to see how the TV handles HDR content. But I would be very much happy with just the HD quality that this TV offers. I would not shell out extra 4lakhs of my hard earned money to get few % improvement that big brands may offer.
And I don't buy the argument that stuff from big brands last long and have less usability issues and bugs. My experience tells me it's not true, that's what we are made to believe to justify the premium we pay . Also I believe budget brands try to give as many features as possible while big brands give as few as possible in an effort to make customers spend more to buy their premium offerings. Hence customers end up paying much more to get even basic features.
For example, one of my Samsung TVs (a 55inch 4k TV bought for 1.5L few years back) supports Bluetooth speakers only if it's a Samsung speaker/soundbar. If someone tells me that it's a premium feature and brand need to spend lot of money for R&D, I would think he is a fool. I work in Semiconductor industry, we sell Bluetooth chips for peanuts, it's less than one US$.
Ex 2: Another one of Samsung 55inch Full HD bought for 1.45L in 2015 literally started disintegrating after 5 years, the caps on LEDs are falling off creating big bright light spots on the display.
Ex 3: A split AC bought from Samsung for 65k never worked properly. The brand never bothered to send anyone for repair once the warranty was over. But equivalent capacity ACs from Whirlpool and Sanyo bought for exactly half the price work beautifully.
Ex 4: The same goes for Samsung's flagship phone at some point, the Galaxy S6 Edge Plus. I paid 60k for it. It literally becomes a Oven once LTE data gets turned on. I still have the phone with me (not used though) as a reminder to not buy a Samsung phone ever again.
Ex 5: Next is LG V30+, a flagship at some point. The phone as such is good and I still use it. But LG provided OS updates only 2 or 3 times ever since I bought it. I also bought a Oneplus6 for my wife around the same time, it still receives regulars updates.
So please don't tell me big brands offer quality, long term support and spend lot of money on R&D, test, QA. I am not naive.
I wouldn't summarily dismiss all budget products and blindly believe in big brands. The same is true vice versa.
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So, you can get sound from native apps such as Netflix, Prime etc without any issue? In my case moment I pause/play the connection breaks and have to toggle the source to get the sound back.
Can you please share your settings of Yamaha and TV?
What about Firestick? If I set firestick to DD+ and passthrough sound on TV, I have to toggle the source to get the sound.
I don't have any issue with Dolby Digital, its with dolby digital plus that's causing the problem.
shriharsha.p
Member
Folks, i again seem to have the same problem of a hdmi port conking out in a day. This has been totally frustrating for me. Any help on the below points will be great:
1. I have asked an electrician to come and check for power issues, etc. Earthing etc has been thoroughly checked as also voltage. No issues found. I have 1.5 kva inverter backup which also has been checked
2. Of the two remaining working ports on the tv, the display works if i am attaching the shield tv and fire cube directly to tv hdmi ports. It doesn't work if routed through avr out connected to tv
3. If avr out is connected to tv through a hdmi splitter, the display works with either of the working ports. This was my original setup as i have a projector
4. I am not able to understand why direct hdmi out from avr is not working whereas it is when routed through splitter
5. Unable to understand why hdmi port 2 on the Mi tv keeps conking out (this was the port hdmi out from avr was plugged into). It worked perfectly yesterday. Power issues have been ruled out, all cables have been upgraded to 8k. That leaves the splitter. But display from avr hdmi out is working only when routed through the splitter, so i am assuming splitter shouldn't be an issue
6. Could it be a hdcp issue that's causing the hdmi port on the TV to lock out? I can confirm port 2 on mi tv (eARC) is not recognizing an input now
Cheers
1. I have asked an electrician to come and check for power issues, etc. Earthing etc has been thoroughly checked as also voltage. No issues found. I have 1.5 kva inverter backup which also has been checked
2. Of the two remaining working ports on the tv, the display works if i am attaching the shield tv and fire cube directly to tv hdmi ports. It doesn't work if routed through avr out connected to tv
3. If avr out is connected to tv through a hdmi splitter, the display works with either of the working ports. This was my original setup as i have a projector
4. I am not able to understand why direct hdmi out from avr is not working whereas it is when routed through splitter
5. Unable to understand why hdmi port 2 on the Mi tv keeps conking out (this was the port hdmi out from avr was plugged into). It worked perfectly yesterday. Power issues have been ruled out, all cables have been upgraded to 8k. That leaves the splitter. But display from avr hdmi out is working only when routed through the splitter, so i am assuming splitter shouldn't be an issue
6. Could it be a hdcp issue that's causing the hdmi port on the TV to lock out? I can confirm port 2 on mi tv (eARC) is not recognizing an input now
Cheers
manindra.mukherjee
Active Member
My bad....i didnot check the pause play issue . Its there with the native tv os and app. The AVR detects the correct source at start (shows PCM) and then fails to decode the signal as you fireup a app like Prime or Netflix. Toggle the source and then the audio works fine. I changed the tv sound output to Auto from passthru and at present not facing issue with pause play (just check and confirm if that works for you) . However when i exit the app and come to home screen and then again open the same or another app, sound is not there. I have to toggle input on my AVR remote.
For firestick , things are little better. I have tried changing the audio on FS to Best Surround Available / DD/DD+/PCM and all of them are working. I have found DD+ option to be most stable as ARC handshake happens best when set to this for reasons beyond my understanding. There is no play pause issue on FS while using apps like Prime , Netflix and Hotstar and i donot lose audio when performing such function. The only time I have to toggle input on my remote while using FS is at the start . That also at times is not required . When i press the power button on FS remote and AVR , TV switches on but the AVR decoder shows off. The moment I trigger a input via the FS remote , the decoder changes to DD+ and audio starts working. The point to be noted is that the AVR still fails to decode the correct signal. Whatever option i select in FS as audio , the output always is showing as DD+ even when source is PCM
One issue that i face though quite infrequent is ARC doesnot kick in at all and sound ouput is thru tv speaker only . I have to turn off the CEC control of TV and then turn on. Power off the tv and power on and then ARC starts working again.
Can you correlate the above with the problems that you faced and conclude which are common issues and which are not
vikrantxtrad
Well-Known Member
@sandeepmohan This is something which I was trying to say.
Btw @jarneevan the HDR playback of this TV is absolutely great but you have make many changes. Use external Hard disk/ pendrive and its native player. Since it's new TV for you, you will continue to fine tune it and appreciate it more.
Yes to all.
Primarily the issue is with TV's capability to handshake when DD+ is there.
For infrequent issue with ARC just toggle the AVR and it should handshake again.
What happens when you set TV to Auto is that only PCM is delivered to AVR, hence no issues. With pass through, content with DD+ has problem. I have checked this by playing several 4K media through native player and Kodi.
Issue is with DD+.
The TV has problem with ARC handshake. Most likely something to do with HDMI2 port. @shriharsha.p is also facing issue with HDMI2.
MI should have QCed and baked this properly before releasing.
BTW, still no firmware update. Hoping that may fix this problem and it's not some HW problem.
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