Discrete Dynamics Class A Pre-Amplifier

[MaSh]

Wow, that looks awesome. If you paint it light grey it would look like a Schiit Dac.

MaSh

 

[sachu888]

Looking nice Sadik Bhai.

Regards
Sachin

 

[sadik]

Looking nice Sadik Bhai.

Regards
Sachin

Thanks... Sachin Bhai Credit goes to You and Aniket.

 

[all4music]

superb Sadik! just get one of your Aluminium machined vol. knob to complete the look!

 

[sadik]

superb Sadik! just get one of your Aluminium machined vol. knob to complete the look!

Face Plate, Power Switch & Knobs are on the way Bro...

 

[sadik]

Update:

Today got the Face Plate made from teak wood. It will be stained and polished. Below is the photo of same.

Sadik

 

[raghupb]

Update:

Today got the Face Plate made from teak wood. It will be stained and polished. Below is the photo of same.
<snip>

Sadik

Wood front and metal combo will look really good.
Instead of staining, try using boiled linseed oil treatment before sealant and varnish.
It takes about a week to cure, but brings out the natural lush in teak and will pop the grain.
If you are interested, I can send a couple of pics of teak treated this way.
Cheers,
Raghu

 

[sadik]

Wood front and metal combo will look really good.
Instead of staining, try using boiled linseed oil treatment before sealant and varnish.
It takes about a week to cure, but brings out the natural lush in teak and will pop the grain.
If you are interested, I can send a couple of pics of teak treated this way.
Cheers,
Raghu

Thanks Raghu for the tip. I will check the "boiled linseed oil treatment" on google. Mean while if you have your own photos of same you can please share in this thread. I also request you to please do not share the images from google. I want to see the actual results.

Sadik

 

[sachu888]

Thanks Raghu for the tip. I will check the "boiled linseed oil treatment" on google. Mean while if you have your own photos of same you can please share in this thread. I also request you to please do not share the images from google. I want to see the actual results.

Sadik

Linseed oil is very good and easily available on most of the sports shop @ approx 50/ small bottle. I used to buy for my cricket bat. I have also used it on my preamp's faceplates. Varnish or tint looks artificial.

Regards
Sachin

 

[jls001]

Linseed oil is a good treatment as it penetrates deep into the wood and stabilises the grain. But it won't have the shiny finish of lacquer even if one buffs it hard. On small wood parts I made, I typically spray 5-6 layers of acrylic lacquer after the linseed oil dries (takes a very long time to fully dry!). Light sanding with high grit sandpaper in between coats of lacquer is essential for good finish.

The lazy way out is to simply spray with acrylic lacquer.

 

[raghupb]

Thanks Raghu for the tip. I will check the "boiled linseed oil treatment" on google. Mean while if you have your own photos of same you can please share in this thread. I also request you to please do not share the images from google. I want to see the actual results.

Sadik

Linseed oil is very good and easily available on most of the sports shop @ approx 50/ small bottle. I used to buy for my cricket bat. I have also used it on my preamp's faceplates. Varnish or tint looks artificial.

Regards
Sachin

Sadik,
Boiled linseed oil (BLO) is a material that soaks into the wood and hardens.
It takes some time to dry out though. Couple of days per coat in dry weather; longer during monsoon or high humidity.
The process is the same:
- sand down using 100/220 grit
- apply BLO (a bit generously) then wipe off excess
- leave it to dry for at least a couple of days
- repeat one more time (if necessary)
- sand down using 220/320 after it has dried well
- use NC sealant (one or two coats) with fine sanding (320/400) in between
- use polish or varnish for gloss

You may omit the sealant/varnish steps for a more natural look, but you will need to do reapply BLO say every year or so.

Sachin,
My experience with plain linseed oil has not been successful on furniture.
The bloody thing takes forever to dry out. It is very good for seasoning willow that takes hard knocks.

Attached are a few pics from one of my teak projects.


Cheers,
Raghu

Linseed oil is a good treatment as it penetrates deep into the wood and stabilises the grain. But it won't have the shiny finish of lacquer even if one buffs it hard. On small wood parts I made, I typically spray 5-6 layers of acrylic lacquer after the linseed oil dries (takes a very long time to fully dry!). Light sanding with high grit sandpaper in between coats of lacquer is essential for good finish.

The lazy way out is to simply spray with acrylic lacquer.

Yes @jls001. Linseed oil takes forever to dry. Boiled linseed oil is relatively fast drying.
BLO is the preferred treatment for Cherry-wood, but i found it great for Teak and other dark woods with grain.
Cheers,
Raghu

 

[sadik]

Thankyou @sachu888 (Sachin), @jls001 & @raghupb for sharing the details but I cannot wait for that long hence Linseed Oil treatment is cancelled. I will stick with stain & polish.

Sadik

 

[raghupb]

Thankyou @sachu888 (Sachin), @jls001 & @raghupb for sharing the details but I cannot wait for that long hence Linseed Oil treatment is cancelled. I will stick with stain & polish.

Sadik

Makes sense this time.
For fun, just try it out on any small piece of grained dark wood.
Cheers,
Raghu

 

[sadik]

Update:

Did some DTP work with laser engraving on face plate. It turned out beautiful. Below are the photos.

Sadik

 

[tuff]

Looking good. How much do they charge for that kind of engraving?

 

[sadik]

Looking good. How much do they charge for that kind of engraving?

Rs. 160 for all that engraving. I donno if this price is justified, but it took 3 pass to get it done right and secondly it was done on urgent basis and in front of me. I took it to the engraving guy and it was done within 10 mins.

Sadik

 

[lifewater]

Rs. 160 for all that engraving. I donno if this price is justified, but it took 3 pass to get it done right and secondly it was done on urgent basis and in front of me. I took it to the engraving guy and it was done within 10 mins.

Sadik

Great work Sadik. And that engraving was damn cheap. Out here in Dibrugarh (Assam) they charge Rs 50 per letter... YES per letter.

 

[all4music]

Face Plate made from teak wood.

Now we're talking! And those lettering look fab!

I've attached couple of pics of the face plate that I made for preamp. I would suggest you use some kind of wood grain filler for that glossy glass like finish.

I did not have that much patience - after sanding down the wood, made use of stains [combination of commercial stains and thickly boiled black tea along with bit of turmeric powder can give some great results - ofcourse try it on a test piece of wood] and clear coat spray cans. Used 2000 grit sanding in between coats. If you use paint brush method I'm sure the finish will be much cleaner. Your wood already looks really good.






all the best

 

[tuff]

Cant wait to get my hands on one.

 

[sadik]

Now we're talking! And those lettering look fab!

I've attached couple of pics of the face plate that I made for preamp. I would suggest you use some kind of wood grain filler for that glossy glass like finish.

I did not have that much patience - after sanding down the wood, made use of stains [combination of commercial stains and thickly boiled black tea along with bit of turmeric powder can give some great results - ofcourse try it on a test piece of wood] and clear coat spray cans. Used 2000 grit sanding in between coats. If you use paint brush method I'm sure the finish will be much cleaner. Your wood already looks really good.

View attachment 37607

View attachment 37608


all the best

Hi Bro,

You mean this...

Sadik