Captain, hope this helps you.
http://www.hifivision.com/diy/28245-diy-pass-f5-turbo-v2-initiated-29.html#post422344
Regards
DIY: Pass F5 turbo v2 initiated
- Thread starter omishra
- Start date
http://www.hifivision.com/diy/28245-diy-pass-f5-turbo-v2-initiated-29.html#post422344
Regards
Thank you Sachin & Om. I'll take Sachin's suggestion and would solder directly on to the PCB.
No problem! As you wish. I would request sachin to take out those from your packet.
sud98
Well-Known Member
Didn't Sachin say exactly the opposite, Capt.?
Since he said they can be soldered directly on to the PCB, I'm of the opinion that by soldering the wires directly, I'd be reducing one additional joint for smoother flow of electrons in the circuit.
As per my understanding, the downside would be: Running the risk of damaging the track on the PCB if one has to desolder and resolder a few times which I reckon would not happen in my case. Hope I'm correct in my assumptions here.
Edit: Just spoke to Sachin. As per his advice, I'm taking the connectors as well.
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Captain! Please don't take below as marketing gimmick.Since he said they can be soldered directly on to the PCB, I'm of the opinion that by soldering the wires directly, I'd be reducing one additional joint for smoother flow of electrons in the circuit.
As per my understanding, the downside would be: Running the risk of damaging the track on the PCB if one has to desolder and resolder a few times which I reckon would not happen in my case. Hope I'm correct in my assumptions here.
I agree with you conditionally. Its okay for signal wires to solder on PCB e.g. input leads from RCA sockets. But for PS and speaker wire - these pins and terminal will allow you good contact and 2.5 sq mm wires too. Otherwise in order to fit into 1mm PCB hole you will end up with thin wires. Also assembling after fitting PCB will be easy with terminals in wires. Imagine you are fitting everything inside chassis and then trying to wire them together. In case of multi strand wires there is risk of shorting loose strands inside box.
Yes yes, I'm taking them after all. that's why I had edited my post.
I am thankful to FM sann who found his contact. This person has following heatsink manufactured with tapped and finished to our PCB design.
Weight 24Kg/meter
width X height: 300mm X 83mm
Length : anything (We saw 150mm)
Base : 12mm thick
Gap between Fins: 12mm
In above picture you are looking at 300mm width horizontally. [Photo by my mobile camera.]
Waiting...
PS: Today car broke down as result of some mess up by MASS during yesterday's regular service. :sad: So could not roam around.
Weight 24Kg/meter
width X height: 300mm X 83mm
Length : anything (We saw 150mm)
Base : 12mm thick
Gap between Fins: 12mm
In above picture you are looking at 300mm width horizontally. [Photo by my mobile camera.]
Waiting...
PS: Today car broke down as result of some mess up by MASS during yesterday's regular service. :sad: So could not roam around.
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Thanks Om,
I am really happy for:
1. Discovering the exact heatsink we were looking for the neat and solid F5 build, that too as a single piece. :yahoo:
2. Helping you guys (you and Sachin) in the marathon effort you are taking for this complex build. :clapping:
Regards, sann
Pandu, I too stuck at same point. Cabinet building is going on. Once get that in hand there will be 24 hrs to sing through amp. Stuffing component into PCB is not time consuming as I had experienced through more complex projects.
sachu888
Well-Known Member
Hi Sandeep,
Heatsinks looking very good.I never found this size anywhere in India.
Regards,
Sachin
Heatsinks looking very good.I never found this size anywhere in India.
Regards,
Sachin
The heatsink is ready, anodized and holes for PCB and cabinet are tapped.
Dims 300 x 150 x 83 (24kg / meter)
Regards,
Sann
May not be sufficient for full bias V2. I am commenting on the basis of relative sizing of the PCB vs the heatsink. The 24KG/Meter is not big for that width. The heatsink I used has nearly 40KG/meter for that width.
Cheers
At just under recommended 400mV bias on source resistors the amp will become quite hot in 30 minutes. After that the bias will start straying up due to increased temp and will have a runaway effect. Once the bias crosses 400mV, the diodes will start conducting as well, putting the amp at further risk.
I cannot definitively say how much is good for those heatsinks, but you can start at 200mV and see how far you can push your luck.
Also if you notice, Mr. Pass has included a 75 degree temperature switch in his power supply diagram. Please ensure that this implemented in order to prevent meltdown in case of a untoward event.
There were times I spent 2-3 hours at a stretch monitoring temperature and bias voltages for both V2 and V3. I have managed to run V2 at full bias, but could not do that with V3 for the heatsink set up that I have. I am forced to do some external cooling for V3.
I am once again emphasizing for all of you not to underestimate the heat that can be generated.
Regards
Audiodoc
Well-Known Member
@Anilva. Will these be fine for the basic Pass 5.
@Sann. If anilva gives a nod. I may be interested in a pair too. Want to finish my build too.
@Sann. If anilva gives a nod. I may be interested in a pair too. Want to finish my build too.
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