DIY: Pass F5 turbo v2 initiated

[Audiodoc]

@sann. Can you help in acquiring a pair for my vanilla f5 build.

 

[sann]

Sure, I will check with the manufacturer and update you.
Regards,
Sann'

 

[omishra]

While looking at all PCB, and anilva already pointed out - following is condition near marking '-V1' on PS filter PCB. Please look at red circle which shows proximity of pin to screw. Please use mica washers from both sides of PS Filter PCB around mounting screws as there are active supply tracks surrounding each screw.

Cabinet building which referred to vertical cabinet as originally I thought wrt following heatsink taking some further steps.

I got this frame prepared from SS which could be having mounting holes in side strips and front-back face plates. This will help attaching aluminum from all side and easy to hold and move complete structure without extra stressing on threads in aluminum heatsink etc.

It has handles going (bolted) through front and back plates into chassis. There is one partition in plan which will be in center leaving 2" from heat sink side and 1" from front and back side. You can see two rods welded in middle for attaching 1mm metal sheet of 10"X10". This partition will hold PS - toroidal transformers at one side below partition and PS PCB boards above partitions. Both partitions have usable height of 65mm where transformer is of 55mm height and PS caps + PCB + 5mm spacers, screw make approx 58mm.

Nothing will be drilled and connected to bigger plates of cabinet. This will keep those plates weight free. You can see through those plates now in below picture while partition is not welded.

Outside dimensions - 14" X 5" X 12"

 

[omishra]

Power Supply Connections:

[Please forgive me, picture are not in scale, just image representation for understanding. I am yet to build anything but starting soon]

Mains to Rectifier:
You can connect Mains Power Switch within 'red' wire between IEC socket and Fuse.

Rectifier to Filter Board with Ground Isolator:
Earth ground must be connected nearest point in chassis where PS ground will connect through isolator explained below.

Ground Isolator to be built for each channel using Bridge Rectifier block and black NTC:
There are NO wires shorted on crossing also with mounting bolts. Please see actual construction - 1. Graphics 2. Actual Construction Top View, 3. Side view.
Please solder in pins properly, not shown in below picture.

 

[anilva]

Very neatly drawn and explained. The small cap across power line is forgotten in your picture.

Also signal & speaker connector wiring and their grounding paths need to be shown as well I guess.

Cheers.

 

[omishra]

Very neatly drawn and explained. The small cap across power line is forgotten in your picture.

Also signal & speaker connector wiring and their grounding paths need to be shown as well I guess.

Cheers.

Thanks Anil.

Yes, you are correct. I did not mention those which are on the power switch. I will draw it separately. Also I will draw the amplifier boards connection diagram separately along with grounding instructions.

Also in pipeline are few component mounting instructions.

Regards.

 

[pdhanwada]

OM,

Good drawings,





My amp build has been on hold for sometime due to not finding time. Will resume it shortly(dont know when).

Thanks
pandu

 

[captrajesh]

Thank you for the pics om.

I have some queries. The kit I received has amongst other things, 24 Nos. MUR 3020 diodes and 2 EACH OF FB H10 FQA 16N 25C AND F 1K 35 AB FQA 12P20 MOSFETs.

However, I see only 4 MUR 3020 mentioned on each of the amp PCBs and 16 Nos. MUR 3060 mentioned on the Power supply PCB.

Also, I see 4 Nos each of IRF PS 240_U listed on the amp PCBs.

I had spoken to Sachin a few days back regarding these and he said that I need to solder the MUR 3020s at places where 3060 are mentioned (on the PCB).

He also said that the FB H10 FQA 16N 25C AND F 1K 35 AB FQA 12P20 MOSFETs are to be soldered where IRF PS 240_U are mentioned.

He has also mentioned that you would be providing diagrams where each of the MOFSETs should be soldered.

Looking forward to some clarification and guidance on the same.

 

[omishra]

Thank you for the pics om.

I have some queries. The kit I received has amongst other things, 24 Nos. MUR 3020 diodes and 2 EACH OF FB H10 FQA 16N 25C AND F 1K 35 AB FQA 12P20 MOSFETs.

However, I see only 4 MUR 3020 mentioned on each of the amp PCBs and 16 Nos. MUR 3060 mentioned on the Power supply PCB.

Also, I see 4 Nos each of IRF PS 240_U listed on the amp PCBs.

I had spoken to Sachin a few days back regarding these and he said that I need to solder the MUR 3020s at places where 3060 are mentioned (on the PCB).

He also said that the FB H10 FQA 16N 25C AND F 1K 35 AB FQA 12P20 MOSFETs are to be soldered where IRF PS 240_U are mentioned.

He has also mentioned that you would be providing diagrams where each of the MOFSETs should be soldered.

Looking forward to some clarification and guidance on the same.

Hi Captain,

I am aware of your conversation with Sachin and I will be updating all those thing here.

In short,
MUR3020 -> MUR3060
FQA12Pxx -> IRF9240
FQA1xNxx -> IRF240

I am planning to make document of build, but hold it back due to chassis. Now it seems progressing fast. So we hope some quick turnaround during next two weekends.

Regards,

 

[sann]

Got the transformer from Torotrans. 1KVA, 24-0,24-0,24-0,24-0, weight feels more than 5KG.

There is a CD kept on top of it to give the idea of the diameter.

Now only the cab remains, the build should take off after that.
Regards, sann'

 

[Hiten]

Please use mica washers from both sides of PS Filter PCB around mounting screws[/B] as there are active supply tracks surrounding each screw.

Or since there are total six screws holding the pcb. One near the supply can be replaced with plastic screw or spacer just like in computer motherboard.
Regards

 

[omishra]

Or since there are total six screws holding the pcb. One near the supply can be replaced with plastic screw or spacer just like in computer motherboard.
Regards

Good point!
I assumed people will stay away from plastic/nylon spacers and use metal only. But if it can stand 60C then it could be used as well.

 

[omishra]

Outside dimensions - 14" X 5" X 12"

Referring above post -
Today was taping day. Completed tapping into heatsink and attached. Now plates are pending. Handles will be last in fitting. So its almost 16Kg without electronics and transformer.

So I am building a tank , see my vertical cab taking some shape below -

You can see partition in place

Looking fuggly?

 

[Froggy T]

Looking fuggly?

That reminded me of ZenMod.hyeah:
Do all Class A amps needs sinks of such size ? How many people will be needed to lift Mishra sir .....:lol:

 

[kroyin]

Om ...FUGLY

 

[anilva]

Om,

Seems progress in the right direction. Anxiously waiting for someone to finish the build. Looks like you will be the one.

Kroyin - What happened to your turbo build?

Cheers.

 

[sachu888]

Built like a Palio(tank).I don't have enough courage to start my build.

Regards,
Sachin

 

[kroyin]

I drive a palio

Anil my cab is outsourced and waiting on it since Nov end

 

[sachu888]

I drive a palio

Anil my cab is outsourced and waiting on it since Nov end

Me too and a Punto

Regards,
Sachin

 

[captrajesh]

These are my layout with two proposals -
Proposal 1: This will have input at center and will be same layout used for left and right channel.

Proposal 2: This will have input at once end and left - right will have different symmetric PCB.

Let's discuss pro's and con's of these two approaches.

Wish I knew how to read The PCB design back then. To shorten the signal path especially that of low level input signal, it would've been good to have them on one side of the PCB so that when it is mounted onto the heat sinks located on both sides of the amp, the input RCA sockets could've been located on the edges of the back plate. Now, with the inputs located bang in the middle of the PCB, if we are to shorten the signal path (use shortest possible wire from the RCA socket to the PCB) the heat sinks would have to not only be located at the rear of the cabinet but also, the RCA sockets and speaker binding posts would have to be located at the rear too, in between the heat sinks.

see my vertical cab taking some shape below -

This heat sink has the best depth to width ratio amongst those available but have two grooves running along the length, 70 mm apart and hence can only be mounted in vertical orientation, the way Omishra is doing. But the sad part is, the cabinet height gets unsightly 12" but also gets limited there, limiting the cooling area.

I've found a heat sink which not only has the next best depth (136 mm) to width (125 mm) ratio, but is also aesthetically more pleasing. Here is the pic. I plan to chop off the grooves that I had marked for aesthetic reasons.

There are a total of four MOSFETs and four MUR diodes per PCB equidistantly placed with a gap of about 45 mm at the middle of the PCB. I intend to use either two such heat sinks, 8" high with a 45 to 55 mm plate / heat sink like the one used by Kroyin of equal height connecting the two thereby achieving total heat sink of equivalent area of that of 16" long heat sink or use three such heat sinks 6" high achieving heat sink of equivalent area of that of 18" long heat sink.

Solicit opinions of the experts on my above proposal.