kuruvilajacob
Well-Known Member
I just saw the idler wheel. It looks similar to Dual 1229. It must be a good TT. The stock arm on most Dual players are not to my liking
kuruvilajacob
kuruvilajacob
Dual 1219 worth repairing?
- Thread starter stevieboy
- Start date
reubensm
Well-Known Member
Its sad to see such a nice looking turntable in such a poor state. Would be really great if you can restore it, probably to its original state, with its original tone arm. Even if you dont use it, there would be probably a forum member or two, who may be interested in buying it from you. All the very best!!
Hi,
Steven,this might interest/inspire you.
Dual 1219 In Custom Plinth - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Regards
Rajiv
Steven,this might interest/inspire you.
Dual 1219 In Custom Plinth - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
Regards
Rajiv
Hi Kuruvilajacob,
The idler wheel is not as thick or solid as the Garrard's. I think the 1219 and 1229 are pretty similar. The 1019 seemed to have a dynamically balanced arm. The more videos I see of it online the more I want to restore it to its original status and use it as a changer. There's something quite charming about it.
Regards
Hi Reubensm,
Yes that's why I used it only for cleaning records. It sure didn't look like anything worth restoring. Now I know better
Nice try buddy this table ain't going anywhere 
This is where I want it to be
Dual 1219 Turntable, Stanton 681 EEE, Stanton EEE Needle Demo - YouTube
Regards
Thanks Rajiv,
Registered there since I could not see the pics... And there didn't seem to be an explanation for the unsprung chassis. Though as of now, I think I'm gonna keep the sprung chassis. It's fun poking it and watching it boing up and down. As you can see performance isn't the objective here at all hehe.
This is shaping up to be purely my 'fun' 70s TT. Will probably only go a bit overboard on the tonearm wire and do a Cardas if possible and get a Shure V15 for it. Regards
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2007
- Messages
- 3,650
- Points
- 0
I have one Dual 1009 , idler , fitted with Shre cart ,
more and less satisfied with sound
Planning to keep it and upgrade as 301 and 401 are becoming criminaly expensive and Lanco's too are commanding premium..
Links
http://dual-reference.com/tables/1009.htm
http://www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/1009.shtml
more and less satisfied with sound
Planning to keep it and upgrade as 301 and 401 are becoming criminaly expensive and Lanco's too are commanding premium..
Links
http://dual-reference.com/tables/1009.htm
http://www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/1009.shtml
Stevieboy, you have a very nice example of the 1219 with an original
Dual base and not the cheap United Audio one. United Audio was Dual's
US reseller and made lot of compromises to save costs like making their
own cheapo base, and also eliminating some of the Dual damping weights
to save on shipping costs.
The base is fine, and with Dual's nice sprung chassis, you should give it
a try and see before deciding to make another plinth.
The idler wheel seems to be in very good condition too. I think this
machine will turn out to be a beaut with a little bit of TLC.
The 1219 and 1229 are mechanically almost identical, except that the 1229
has the strobe feature. To accommodate the strobe disc under the platter,
Dual eliminated some of the ribbing on the underside of the platter. Hence,
some feel the 1219 is the better machine due to the extra rigidity of the platter.
These wonderful machines have the reputation of being some of the most
complex machines, evoking comparisons with "Rube Goldberg" creations.
However, with all the excellent info posted on AK by Seth (NoTransistors),
Bill (bohhey) and others, it is possible to restore the machine locally
to excellent working order. If I could do it, I am sure you can do it much
better. Send me a PM with your email id and I'll mail you a zip file of all the collected
info I have (incl an excellent servicing guide by an ex-Ford engr, which
is much better than any official Dual doc).
Before you do anything, do not attempt to move the single/multi lever,
unless you have lubricated the mechanism and replaced a rubber
collar around the single/multi shaft. This is absolutely critical, or you
could fatally damage the so-called "dearing ring" of the tonearm, a part
which is, sadly, no longer available and will render the tonearm useless.
(a workaround to fix it into single play mode has been alluded to by
Seth, but has never been elaborated on).
These Duals are fully automatic machines, and the tonearm is tightly
coupled to the rest of the mechanicals. I do not see an easy way to
integrate another tonearm into it without a lot of effort.
Anyways, the 1219 tonearm is quite well regarded, so you may be fine with it.
Please see the list of "failure points" from Bill (of fixmyDual), which you
will need to address while servicing.
http://www.hifivision.com/phono-turntables/18073-showcase-your-turntable-10.html#post274355
Very importantly, you must do the following stuff, at minimum -
1) Replace the single/multi rubber collar. The nearest suitable replacement
I could find was a small length of sthethoscope rubber tube, as suggested
by Seth. I could not find a suitable injector O-ring, which is used by US folks
for this collar.
2) Replace the Steurpimpel. I used a 5mm piece of coax cable inner insulation,
again suggested by folks on AK.
3) Oil the motor. The info I'll send you will have all the details, and I
posted a bit of it on the other thread.
4) Clean all old/dry grease at the metal-metal linkages and replace with
with lithium grease. Use the grease sparingly.
5) Clean and re-grease the speed select and start-stop levers.
6) Clean head-shell contacts and muting switch.
7) If the tonearm damping is not effective, you will have to replace
the 500000wt silicon damping oil in the cylinder. This is a very tricky
job, and I misaligned the tonearm, and took me a few days of reading
and experimenting to get it back in order.
Also, I can send you the fluid (you only need a very little of
it, maybe 5ml max).
To remove the motor for lubing, you will need to disconnect the wires from the
K3 power box, a nasty bit of work, and one of the worst things Dual engineers came up with.
You can check and replace the spark suppression capacitor inside there, as suggested
by Rajiv on the Garrard thread. I used a X2 rated Epcos (German) film cap, got from my local
electronics parts vendor. The value is in the service manual (download from VinylEngine), and
is 0.01uf, 400V as far as I remember.
You can pick up a multi-play spindle on ebay. Personally, I don't use
multi-play as my very limited vinyl media is too treasured to let them drop
Best wishes for the restore. It will be a challenging job, but I am sure
the end result will be worth the effort.
Dual base and not the cheap United Audio one. United Audio was Dual's
US reseller and made lot of compromises to save costs like making their
own cheapo base, and also eliminating some of the Dual damping weights
to save on shipping costs.
The base is fine, and with Dual's nice sprung chassis, you should give it
a try and see before deciding to make another plinth.
The idler wheel seems to be in very good condition too. I think this
machine will turn out to be a beaut with a little bit of TLC.
The 1219 and 1229 are mechanically almost identical, except that the 1229
has the strobe feature. To accommodate the strobe disc under the platter,
Dual eliminated some of the ribbing on the underside of the platter. Hence,
some feel the 1219 is the better machine due to the extra rigidity of the platter.
These wonderful machines have the reputation of being some of the most
complex machines, evoking comparisons with "Rube Goldberg" creations.
However, with all the excellent info posted on AK by Seth (NoTransistors),
Bill (bohhey) and others, it is possible to restore the machine locally
to excellent working order. If I could do it, I am sure you can do it much
better. Send me a PM with your email id and I'll mail you a zip file of all the collected
info I have (incl an excellent servicing guide by an ex-Ford engr, which
is much better than any official Dual doc).
Before you do anything, do not attempt to move the single/multi lever,
unless you have lubricated the mechanism and replaced a rubber
collar around the single/multi shaft. This is absolutely critical, or you
could fatally damage the so-called "dearing ring" of the tonearm, a part
which is, sadly, no longer available and will render the tonearm useless.
(a workaround to fix it into single play mode has been alluded to by
Seth, but has never been elaborated on).
These Duals are fully automatic machines, and the tonearm is tightly
coupled to the rest of the mechanicals. I do not see an easy way to
integrate another tonearm into it without a lot of effort.
Anyways, the 1219 tonearm is quite well regarded, so you may be fine with it.
Please see the list of "failure points" from Bill (of fixmyDual), which you
will need to address while servicing.
http://www.hifivision.com/phono-turntables/18073-showcase-your-turntable-10.html#post274355
Very importantly, you must do the following stuff, at minimum -
1) Replace the single/multi rubber collar. The nearest suitable replacement
I could find was a small length of sthethoscope rubber tube, as suggested
by Seth. I could not find a suitable injector O-ring, which is used by US folks
for this collar.
2) Replace the Steurpimpel. I used a 5mm piece of coax cable inner insulation,
again suggested by folks on AK.
3) Oil the motor. The info I'll send you will have all the details, and I
posted a bit of it on the other thread.
4) Clean all old/dry grease at the metal-metal linkages and replace with
with lithium grease. Use the grease sparingly.
5) Clean and re-grease the speed select and start-stop levers.
6) Clean head-shell contacts and muting switch.
7) If the tonearm damping is not effective, you will have to replace
the 500000wt silicon damping oil in the cylinder. This is a very tricky
job, and I misaligned the tonearm, and took me a few days of reading
and experimenting to get it back in order.
Also, I can send you the fluid (you only need a very little of
it, maybe 5ml max).
To remove the motor for lubing, you will need to disconnect the wires from the
K3 power box, a nasty bit of work, and one of the worst things Dual engineers came up with.
You can check and replace the spark suppression capacitor inside there, as suggested
by Rajiv on the Garrard thread. I used a X2 rated Epcos (German) film cap, got from my local
electronics parts vendor. The value is in the service manual (download from VinylEngine), and
is 0.01uf, 400V as far as I remember.
You can pick up a multi-play spindle on ebay. Personally, I don't use
multi-play as my very limited vinyl media is too treasured to let them drop
Best wishes for the restore. It will be a challenging job, but I am sure
the end result will be worth the effort.
Last edited:
Just the guy I was waiting for The Dualer himself!
Yoikes before I respond on anything else, I already moved the lever from single play to multiplay a few times to see what was moving and what was not. It moved ok did not seem to be stuck. Now what? How do I check if I've damaged something?
Regards
Edit: I do remember reading about this rubber collar, there was a picture of it with two ball bearings on ebay. "(2) The single-multi tone arm height adjustment switch uses a rubber retainer for positive switching - this deteriorates causing the tone arm to bind laterally - replace." Is this the part you're talking about?
The Dualer himself!Yoikes before I respond on anything else, I already moved the lever from single play to multiplay a few times to see what was moving and what was not. It moved ok did not seem to be stuck. Now what? How do I check if I've damaged something?
Regards
Edit: I do remember reading about this rubber collar, there was a picture of it with two ball bearings on ebay. "(2) The single-multi tone arm height adjustment switch uses a rubber retainer for positive switching - this deteriorates causing the tone arm to bind laterally - replace." Is this the part you're talking about?
Last edited:
Yep, this is the same collar.
Not to worry, if the single/multi lever moved smoothly. The issue
is only if you encountered resistance, and forced it.
Here's a nice pic of the colllar.
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n243/mrow2/Record%20Turntables/Dual12192repaira.jpg
Dual 1229 cue lever non-lift question - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
You mentioned that you broke the cartridge. It appears you
actually broke the headshell or cartridge sled.
If so, you will need a Dual TK-14 or TK-24 style headshell.
Original Dual TK 14 / 24 Cartridge holder Headshell NEW | eBay
Dual TK14, TK24, Headshells
actually broke the headshell or cartridge sled.
If so, you will need a Dual TK-14 or TK-24 style headshell.
Original Dual TK 14 / 24 Cartridge holder Headshell NEW | eBay
Dual TK14, TK24, Headshells
Thanks Quad. That's a relief. Yes it sort of clicked into place nicely.
The headshell I kinda figured out the fixing last night. When I was taking pictures I saw the fixing mechanism under the headshell carrier. Quite a neat idea I must say! It seemed to fit back into the carrier, not sure how the pins made contact will have to clean and see. The headshell part containing the cartridge doesn't seem to have round pins at the end, more flattish ones, I'll have to check more closely to see.
Can one get a whole new unit to replace? ie the headshell sled and the carrier to fix to the tonearm?
I have downloaded the manual, service manual, mounting pdfs from vinylengine. First step would be to read up and get familiar with the various parts, working etc. Then only will I venture to open up. Will also be reading AK, vinylengine and asking you before opening the Dual to access the underside. It came with the Shure 91ed I think with no stylus. That will be replaced anyway.
My main cause of concern right now is that the center spindle goes all over the place, top, down, left right and the platter does not seat properly but wobbles and touches the base when rotated by hand.
Regards
Edit: I think your point of the tonearm being intricately linked to the TTs mechanism is very valid. It's a good thing I've warmed up to the idea of keeping things all original!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=CpuH-PTXzPk
According to this, I don't have the C clip in the middle of the platter, nor the spindle that is protruding out. There's only part of the spindle below which you can see in the pics I've posted.
The headshell I kinda figured out the fixing last night. When I was taking pictures I saw the fixing mechanism under the headshell carrier. Quite a neat idea I must say! It seemed to fit back into the carrier, not sure how the pins made contact will have to clean and see. The headshell part containing the cartridge doesn't seem to have round pins at the end, more flattish ones, I'll have to check more closely to see.
Can one get a whole new unit to replace? ie the headshell sled and the carrier to fix to the tonearm?
I have downloaded the manual, service manual, mounting pdfs from vinylengine. First step would be to read up and get familiar with the various parts, working etc. Then only will I venture to open up. Will also be reading AK, vinylengine and asking you before opening the Dual to access the underside. It came with the Shure 91ed I think with no stylus. That will be replaced anyway.
My main cause of concern right now is that the center spindle goes all over the place, top, down, left right and the platter does not seat properly but wobbles and touches the base when rotated by hand.
Regards
Edit: I think your point of the tonearm being intricately linked to the TTs mechanism is very valid. It's a good thing I've warmed up to the idea of keeping things all original!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=CpuH-PTXzPk
According to this, I don't have the C clip in the middle of the platter, nor the spindle that is protruding out. There's only part of the spindle below which you can see in the pics I've posted.
Last edited:
The Dual Turntable Headshell is part # 223049. As far as I can see,
it's not available anywhere. Maybe you can post on AK and see
if someone has a spare one.
The carrier is the TK-24 I posted earlier.
The Dual headshell contacts are one of the weak points on these
machines, as the connection can be flaky and lead to hum.
Apparently, rewiring the tonearm so that you connect the wires
directly to the cartridge majorly improves sonics.
Dual 1229 Tonearm rewire
it's not available anywhere. Maybe you can post on AK and see
if someone has a spare one.
The carrier is the TK-24 I posted earlier.
The Dual headshell contacts are one of the weak points on these
machines, as the connection can be flaky and lead to hum.
Apparently, rewiring the tonearm so that you connect the wires
directly to the cartridge majorly improves sonics.
Dual 1229 Tonearm rewire
Hi Quad,
So am guessing that the headshell part that attaches to the tonearm has a hole through which I can thread the tonearm wire to cartridge leads. So far it seemed like a blank wall. Can one remove the headshell from the tonearm?
Regards
So am guessing that the headshell part that attaches to the tonearm has a hole through which I can thread the tonearm wire to cartridge leads. So far it seemed like a blank wall. Can one remove the headshell from the tonearm?
Regards
Checked the headshell there's a screw at the base of the tonearm so guessing it can be removed. Rewiring out to be a cinch since the tonearm opening is right near the rear of the headshell.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This thread has some pics I linked to, showing how the spindle
is fixed to the cast aluminum bracket.
Turntable Forum • View topic - Noob Help Needed For Dual 1229q
You figured the headshell stuff already. Anyways,
the pic here shows the Dual headshell fixed to the tonearm with
a small screw underneath (barely visible in the pic here) -
Dual 1229 : Dual 1229Q difference or is 1 unit broken? - Page 2 - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
is fixed to the cast aluminum bracket.
Turntable Forum • View topic - Noob Help Needed For Dual 1229q
You figured the headshell stuff already. Anyways,
the pic here shows the Dual headshell fixed to the tonearm with
a small screw underneath (barely visible in the pic here) -
Dual 1229 : Dual 1229Q difference or is 1 unit broken? - Page 2 - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
sachu888
Well-Known Member
Hi stevieboy,
PM your email address I will send you a rebuild manual for DUAL 1219 which I got it from an AK member.It has a step by step guide by original pics.
Regards,
Sachin
PM your email address I will send you a rebuild manual for DUAL 1219 which I got it from an AK member.It has a step by step guide by original pics.
Regards,
Sachin
Sorry Stevie for the OT, but since this is a Dual thread, let me ask, since all the gurus are here.
Does anybody have any idea where I can find a motor for my Dual CS5000? It's a belt drive though. Also how about a new belt? Are these available somewhere? I have a 5-6 hour old Shure M97xe cart sitting idle on the CS5000. Either I need to get my old Dual back in order or should sell the M97xe before the cantilever support gets stiff without use.
Regards.
Does anybody have any idea where I can find a motor for my Dual CS5000? It's a belt drive though. Also how about a new belt? Are these available somewhere? I have a 5-6 hour old Shure M97xe cart sitting idle on the CS5000. Either I need to get my old Dual back in order or should sell the M97xe before the cantilever support gets stiff without use.
Regards.
Hi Quad,
That clearly indicates that I have something missing. The spindle in the picture comes above the level of the black chassis and levels off in the center whole of the platter. Mine is under the level of the black chassis...There's a hole and a metal rod coming a cm out and a round loose part surrounding the rod. Will have to open up to take clearer pics later tonight.
Regards
Wharfedale Linton Heritage Speakers in Red Mahogany finish at a Special Offer Price. BUY now before the price increase.
