TD 124 Wakes Up

[santhosh]

Sorry for the OT Joshua.

Thanks Gerry, a Kapro Line Level works well for me for levelling. Was curious how your level is helping you check azimuth and VTA . Jochen (The Listening Room) uses a Millennium Acrylic VTA Block. It is on my long list of things to buy

Here is a pic I took on my TT while he very kindly setup for me:

 

[Gerry_the_Merry]

Santhosh
I meant that since it is a circular level, you can at once check Azimuth and VTA. You must of course set them / correct misalignment separately, but once in a while, if you get paranoid, a quick check answers both questions.

If the VTA is off, the level bubble will move up/down along the line of the tonearm tube and if the Azimuth is off, it will move left/right perpendicular to the tonearm tube. Is that what you meant to ask?

 

[jls001]

I have a query about capacitor replacement in the TD 124: the service manual for the turntable says one should replace the 0.01uF capacitor "if a popping noise occurs in the speakers when the on-off switch is operated". This capacitor is

I managed to find a 0.1 uF, 250V film capacitor. This is 10 times the recommended value. Is it safe to use it, or should I use only 0.01uF? Asking this dQ, because it is about 2-hours drive (and 2 hour back) from where I stay to Lamington Road. This will eat up a very good chunk of my precious weekend

Some discussion on same topic here:
Turntable Forum • View topic - Td 124 Mk1 Condesor/Compressor Specifications

 

[jls001]

I have a query about capacitor replacement in the TD 124: the service manual for the turntable says one should replace the 0.01uF capacitor "if a popping noise occurs in the speakers when the on-off switch is operated". This capacitor is

I managed to find a 0.1 uF, 250V film capacitor. This is 10 times the recommended value. Is it safe to use it, or should I use only 0.01uF? Asking this dQ, because it is about 2-hours drive (and 2 hour back) from where I stay to Lamington Road. This will eat up a very good chunk of my precious weekend

Some discussion on same topic here:
Turntable Forum • View topic - Td 124 Mk1 Condesor/Compressor Specifications

I spent the weekend opening the 124 and searched and searched for the elusive 0.01 uF cap but couldn't find it. Anyway I fixed the 0.1uF cap across the incoming mains as seen on pictures posted above. No effect whatsoever - the loud popping is still there. It looks like the discussion thread I posted is meant for the TD 124 Mark II whereas mine is Mark I.

Any ideas why popping noise when turning on the TT switch to on position? Also, as posted earlier, sometimes it takes a bit of twisting of the selector/on switch to get the platter to turn. The engagement from switch to the motor then to the stepped idler wheel bracket and then to idler wheel is a bit complicated for me to figure out what could be wrong.

 

[Hiten]

Joshua I think this is normal. As turntable AC motors starts it creates spike in power line. I guess you can experiment by using spike suppressor (Most Computer Power strip extention). Or try to plug in two pin plug reverse from regular. I also wonder if turntable should be grounded. As Recent AC garrard motor I have has earth connection.
Regards

 

[Hiten]

sometimes it takes a bit of twisting of the selector/on switch to get the platter to turn. The engagement from switch to the motor then to the stepped idler wheel bracket and then to idler wheel is a bit complicated for me to figure out what could be wrong.

Just checked the pics of inside of TD 124. The on off switch at bottom left has odd shape plate (Like flower) which engages the power switch to on/off position. See if it has proper tight contact. Also power switch contacts may have developed residue on them. But opening the switch has its risks.

Normally metal plate moving over plastic power switch stub wears plastic out. (the red part on above example) you can stick some material to increase the pressure. But most probably I think the switch contact should be cleaned first.
Regards

 

[Hiten]

Oh ! a thought just came to my mind. Could the power switch be the problem of pop sound. ??? I think clean switch will most probably will reduce the pop sound.

 

[IndianEars]

M44-7 or Mx97E which I happen to have in stock

At that level of Cartridges not even THINK of upgrading the arm. Its already an OVER KILL for those humble cartridges....

 

[jls001]

At that level of Cartridges not even THINK of upgrading the arm. Its already an OVER KILL for those humble cartridges....

Of course I don't plan to stick to these Shures foerver. Anyway, new stylus for my Shure V15 Type III is on its way. I'm hoping this will be an upgrade over the M97xE. Next target is the classic Denon DL 103 R.

 

[anilva]

I spent the weekend opening the 124 and searched and searched for the elusive 0.01 uF cap but couldn't find it. Anyway I fixed the 0.1uF cap across the incoming mains as seen on pictures posted above. No effect whatsoever - the loud popping is still there. It looks like the discussion thread I posted is meant for the TD 124 Mark II whereas mine is Mark I.

Any ideas why popping noise when turning on the TT switch to on position? Also, as posted earlier, sometimes it takes a bit of twisting of the selector/on switch to get the platter to turn. The engagement from switch to the motor then to the stepped idler wheel bracket and then to idler wheel is a bit complicated for me to figure out what could be wrong.

Please replace with 0.01 uF and not with 0.1 uF. The capacitance value is 10 times more than specified.

Cheers

 

[jls001]

Please replace with 0.01 uF and not with 0.1 uF. The capacitance value is 10 times more than specified.

Cheers

I can't find any 0.01 uF cap in the 124. I think there is no such part in Mark I of 124. The service manual I have read is for I/II but the relevant portion of the text doesn't specify whether 0.01uF cap is for Mark I or II. Will post some before and after pics of my TT.

 

[jls001]

Joshua I think this is normal. As turntable AC motors starts it creates spike in power line. I guess you can experiment by using spike suppressor (Most Computer Power strip extention). Or try to plug in two pin plug reverse from regular. I also wonder if turntable should be grounded. As Recent AC garrard motor I have has earth connection.
Regards

@Hiten: I do use a spike suppressor. TT's powercord is the two-pin type. Ground lead from TT is wired to phono-preamp. Phono pre doesn't have dedicated ground since it is powered from a DC wallwart adaptor. Output of phono-pre goes to pre (which has floating ground) and finally to power amp (which does have grounded power cable). So essentially the only grounding in the complete chain is happening ONLY via the power amp.

In my other 'tables, I don't get any loud pop when switching on power or changing speed selector. Hence the worry about the TD 124 producing this loud pop.

 

[malvai]

@Hiten: I do use a spike suppressor. TT's powercord is the two-pin type. Ground lead from TT is wired to phono-preamp. Phono pre doesn't have dedicated ground since it is powered from a DC wallwart adaptor. Output of phono-pre goes to pre (which has floating ground) and finally to power amp (which does have grounded power cable). So essentially the only grounding in the complete chain is happening ONLY via the power amp.

In my other 'tables, I don't get any loud pop when switching on power or changing speed selector. Hence the worry about the TD 124 producing this loud pop.

and that is the way that it should be. I suspect that there is something shorting on the TT itself. just look at the internal wiring a bit closer.

 

[jls001]

Pic 1: the power inlet




Pic 2: Capacitor of 0.1 uF across power lines

 

[Hiten]

Joshua,
Was the old original capacitor across power lines ?

 

[jls001]

Joshua,
Was the old original capacitor across power lines ?

There was no cap. I had put one anyway hoping something nice would happen. And it has no effect whatsoever:lol: It is a fairly painful task to remove it so I am letting this dog lie for now. Will remove when the urge overtakes the lethargy. Anyway, I need to open the switch mechanism and at least oil it, etc. Also, need to buy motor suspension rubber kit as I think the rubber had seen much better days.

 

[Hiten]

Not sure, but it should be across AC motor power on off switch. Need to confirm with gurus.
As for Motor suspension rubbers computer CD/DVD players have them and most probably are sorbothane. you can salvage from dead cd player. I have couple of them for my DIY TT.
Regards

 

[jls001]

I have been searching for an arm for a long time (on this thread).

I finally zeroed in on the Origin Live Silver Mark III and won the ebay bid this morning (thanks, quad, for your precious advice about ebay sniping here). One such site (www.gixen.com) won me this bid.

This arm is two steps above the Origin Live OL1 which, earlier, was one of my frontrunning candidates.

Hoping to get this arm soon and start the engine on the L75 rebuild.

Now, I am looking for the cheapest seller of the Denon DL 103R. In parallel, hoping to get the MC phono kit from Sachin in the next few days (though my current phono stage does support both MM and MC) and learn to build a good phono preamp.

 

[Hiten]

Joshua, in post #66 there is a cap across power on off switch. Check that cap in your TT.
regards

 

[jls001]

Joshua, in post #66 there is a cap across power on off switch. Check that cap in your TT.
regards

I did check the whole underbelly of the TT but did not find a single cap. Will try once more. Yes, in the picture there is definitely an electrolytic cap placed somewhere below the idler wheel.