Pass B1

Yes, its really confusing, all those numbers being discussed are going above my head... :)

My requirement:

CNC phono : Battery powered

Pass B1 :
- Which extra parts do I need to procure to assemble it other than the parts sent by sachin considering it as an independent unit?
- If I use the CNC in the same chasis of B1, how will I connect the o/p of the CNC to B1?

Please clarify.

Please wait till this weekend. It will take some time to draw pics and diagram. I will post it here.
 
Please wait till this weekend. It will take some time to draw pics and diagram. I will post it here.
Okay they are here -

How to connect power supply? Please connect this whatever you use from below configuration or your use case.

powersupplyconnections.jpg


How to use standalone PASS B1? Please note power supply and LDR Volume Control also need to be connected. Yellow line which removes need for input selecting toggle switch.

1in1out.jpg


How to use Two inputs to PASS B1? Please note power supply and LDR Volume Control also need to be connected. Here you can see presence of input selecting toggle switch. If you plan to use CNC in same box then output of CNC can be directly connected to any of the input. CNC power supply is not shown below but need to be connected as well.

I just noticed volume control 'W' connection shown in below diagram is incorrect on LDR in Right Channel. Please refer last picture for corrected connection diagram. Correction - Green wire from 'W' pad need to go to 'R OUT' instead of 'L-GND'
2in1out.jpg


How to use Multiple source inputs to PASS B1? Please note power supply and LDR Volume Control also need to be connected. Yellow line which removes need for input selecting toggle switch.

multipleinputsource.jpg


How to use Lightspeed Attenuator Volume control with PASS B1? Please use this in above any of configuration which you plan to use.

lightspeedldrconnection.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sorry I didnt get it. You are saying one can switch multiple sources without a toggle/rotary switch?

--G0bble
 
No he means that you cant use a DPDT switch. The middle two pins going will be the input the the pass B1. There are six holes for the six wires from the DPDT switch.
 
Let me make it slightly clearer.

The board has terminals for 2 sources. The ones marked left in 1 & right in 1 as well as left in 2 & right in 2. Now these need to be connected to the input of the circuit.

You will note six holes in the centre of the board in parallel (marked L1/R1 and L2/R2 the centre one going to the circuit are unmarked).

If your two sources are connected to the input terminals one of them needs to be active (i.e. in connection with the pre input).

Just attach a double push double through switch (either toggle or otherwise) to these six holes in the centre as described by omishra.

Toggling up will activate source 1 and down will activate source 2. Since the boards has only two inputs why should it need a rotatory switch. However if you have more sources you can connect one prior to one of the pass b1 inputs.
 
Last edited:
Sachin
Graet work man. Parcel arrived in wonderful condition. Have already populated the board. Waiting for the remaining pcb's to arrive.

Aslo, please include me in the trafo GB (if there is one)

Thanks again

Later
Peace
Jetlag
 
Sorry I didnt get it. You are saying one can switch multiple sources without a toggle/rotary switch?

--G0bble
  • For one input only - no need to add toggle switch. just short as shown by those yellow lines in picture 2.
  • For two inputs - you have two ways to do this
    1. To use toggle/rotary switch to six pads on PASS B1 to select from L1-R1 and L2-R2.
    2. Short as shown in picture 2, and use external rotary switch to select inputs.
  • For more than 2 inputs - Short as shown in picture 2, and use external rotary switch to select inputs. Or you can select input based on circuit like this. So selection function is moved from PASS B1 to that different board. PASS B1 is used as 1 input (already selected by another board) and 1 output (obvious :p).
Further update:
BTW, I have packed most of the components. Still half are pending for power supply board. Tomorrow is reserved for LDR matching and grouping. So from Monday I can drop these into courier.
I will post update on matching circuit (test bed) I am making.
 
BTW can anyone get me a good looking volume knob for my cabinet,also please advice on volume pot extension rod.
Sachin, you don't need that extension rod, as here you can mount pot on front side and extend 3 wires from LDR PCB to pot. Making connections on pot same as PCB. That would not affect anything as only 5V and related variable voltage only extended to POT. It would not interfere with any signal. Actual audio will be upto LDR only which could be close to PASS B1 PCB.
Regards
 
Sachin, you don't need that extension rod, as here you can mount pot on front side and extend 3 wires from LDR PCB to pot. Making connections on pot same as PCB. That would not affect anything as only 5V and related variable voltage only extended to POT. It would not interfere with any signal. Actual audio will be upto LDR only which could be close to PASS B1 PCB.
Regards

Hi Om,
actually my cab's wooden front plate is very thick,so I needed some kind of small extension shaft.

Regards,
Sachin
 
Hi Om,
actually my cab's wooden front plate is very thick,so I needed some kind of small extension shaft.
Total shaft length is approx 1.25" (30mm) inclusive threads. 1" is available w/o threading area. Make your calculations. Still you need those extension rod then I bought from robot kit shop 15cm 6mm diameter still rod for 25Rs with those 60Amp wire connectors for some 30 or 45Rs don't remember now.
 
Total shaft length is approx 1.25" (30mm) inclusive threads. 1" is available w/o threading area. Make your calculations. Still you need those extension rod then I bought from robot kit shop 15cm 6mm diameter still rod for 25Rs with those 60Amp wire connectors for some 30 or 45Rs don't remember now.

I think 1.25" would be sufficient length.

Regards,
Sachin
 
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