Sealed or ported Sub

[dinesh1201]

Personally I think the amplifier is underpowered for these speakers to drive them to the fullest. You need atleast 120 watts to get the lower end to be robust. Less power usually is the culprit if the bass falls off towards the bottom end.

okay, recommended Amplifier Power Per Channel for RTi A3 is 20 watts → 150 watts and I'm using Marantz PM5005 having Power Output (8 / 4 Ohm RMS)40 W / 55 W , could it be the reason for my problem?

 

[Kannan]

thanks! and what is your thought about Sub with passive radiators?

The passive/active sub is a misnomer. No sub can work without an amp. I would suggest to go with an active one as the amp would be matched to the sub. If you want to take a passive route, you need to know the technicalities to match the gadgets.
I recently made an isobaric ported subwoofer for my car using two 7 inch Daytoin Reference midbass drivers. It is driven by a TPA3116 mono board and performance is aplomb.

 

[dinesh1201]

The passive/active sub is a misnomer. No sub can work without an amp. I would suggest to go with an active one as the amp would be matched to the sub. If you want to take a passive route, you need to know the technicalities to match the gadgets.
I recently made an isobaric ported subwoofer for my car using two 7 inch Daytoin Reference midbass drivers. It is driven by a TPA3116 mono board and performance is aplomb.

No no I asked about subs which are not ported but having passive drivers in it including active amp driver. Not about truly passive Sub woofer

 

[tuff]

okay, recommended Amplifier Power Per Channel for RTi A3 is 20 watts → 150 watts and I'm using Marantz PM5005 having Power Output (8 / 4 Ohm RMS)40 W / 55 W , could it be the reason for my problem?

I had arcam power amplifier driving my speakers and after I switched to crown, the bottom end almost doubled, at the same listening levels. If you can borrow an amp from some one and test it, you will know what works and what doesn't.

 

[Kannan]

No no I asked about subs which are not ported but having passive drivers in it including active amp driver. Not about truly passive Sub woofer

You mean sealed and not ported (Passive means without amp). It all depends on the implementation. There are both advantages and disadvantages in both ported and sealed designs. It all depends how well it has been optimized.
In general, a ported design for the same driver essentially needs a bigger enclosure but lower power and vice versa for sealed.
Port has added complication of proper port tuning, port ringing etc.
But these technicalities are critical only if you are designing the sub.

Listen and decide, I have generally liked a ported design. In car initially I had to go with sealed due to space constrain before switching over to ported in the isobaric design..

My Infinity bookshelf initially had a passive radiator which is another form of a ported design. I did not like the sound quality and modded it into a sealed design by removing the passive radiator and closing the opening, but will loss of few octave on the low end. But the midrange dramatically improved and compensated for the lows with a sub. I am very happy with the combo.

 

[dinesh1201]

Thank you guys for the the great inputs. Now what I thought to start saving money and will buy a better sub like one time expense or as @tuff said will upgrade the amp. All and all there's much to upgrade for what I demand let me start another journey to add something more better. Thank you all!!

 

[MaSh]

Thank you guys for the the great inputs. Now what I thought to start saving money and will buy a better sub like one time expense or as @tuff said will upgrade the amp. All and all there's much to upgrade for what I demand let me start another journey to add something more better. Thank you all!!

yes its a never ending journey. There will always be something of an eye candy that you will want. Just dont forget to sit back, relax and enjoy your music in between.

MaSh