B&W 606 speaker tweeter problem
- Thread starter Rajeshrev
- Start date
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Yelamanchili manohar
Well-Known Member
Hi rajesh 
The links connecting the lower binding post to the upper binding post are missing. You need to have the lower and upper binding posts connected, with usually a small wire or rod connector that B&W should have supplied.
Wait let me post a pic.
The links connecting the lower binding post to the upper binding post are missing. You need to have the lower and upper binding posts connected, with usually a small wire or rod connector that B&W should have supplied.
Wait let me post a pic.
Yelamanchili manohar
Well-Known Member
keith_correa
Well-Known Member
He is testing just the tweeter so why would he need to use the lower posts which are for LF? The top posts are for the tweeter, right? If yes, he's using them correctly for the test.
Passive_audio_enthusiast
Well-Known Member
did you take the tweeter apart ? It looks like tbe diaphragm is still attached to the tube like part and the terminals are still on the front plate. If not, if the tweeters are burnt, the replacement for this is easily available at bowers and Wilkins as the model is still not outdated.
Passive_audio_enthusiast
Well-Known Member
If the other speaker(from the pair) works as expected, probably one tweeter is partly blown. Did you try swapping the tweeters across the speakers? I mean exchange left speakers tweeter with right or vice versa?
I will chk tnx
Swaped the twitters faulty one has very low volume i think this one needs repair
Yelamanchili manohar
Well-Known Member
Your post is really confusingSwaped the twitters faulty one has very low volume i think this one needs repair
1. Have you actually swapped the faulty tweeter into the other cabinet and tested it there.
2. And have you deliberately removed the binding post links and connected the amp only to the tweeter terminals for testing.
3. Connect a 1.5 v battery across the terminals of the tweeter, the polarity doesnt matter. Do you hear a click from the tweeter when you connect the battery or not.
Passive_audio_enthusiast
Well-Known Member
very bad idea for testing a tweeter. This would probably make sure it’s dead. For midranges and woofers, I agree.
1.5 volts, which cannot even go above few milli-amperes (max 5 watts) for a tweeter of many watts and resistance ~ 4 ohms, is harmless. Had this been some lead acid (2 volts) or a lithium ion variant, capable of high current, then probably yes. But this is a B&W tweeter voice coil very much capable of carrying few amps without getting burnt. @Yelamanchili manohar has given a practical solution where many of us don't have a multimeter.
Easier way to check it is with a multimeter, which thanks to China is available for < Rs 300. I have seen dry solder joints of the wires from the terminal to the voice coil. Visuall examination would be of immence help
Yelamanchili manohar
Well-Known Member
I would beg to differ, having done it a few times on my own
Yes sir i did tnxYour post is really confusing
1. Have you actually swapped the faulty tweeter into the other cabinet and tested it there.
2. And have you deliberately removed the binding post links and connected the amp only to the tweeter terminals for testing.
3. Connect a 1.5 v battery across the terminals of the tweeter, the polarity doesnt matter. Do you hear a click from the tweeter when you connect the battery or not.
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