B&W 683 5.1 theatre vs CM9 theatre for 221 sq.ft. bedroom?

Thanks nSinghal. I do have a Logitech Harmony 900 for daily use. Regarding the HDMI Splitter, is it true that using it decreases the audio and video quality considerably? I have heard it many times but not sure if it's true or not.

If not, can you suggest a model?
No personal experience but mono price offerings seems to have good reviews.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=5557&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=4067&seq=1&format=2

http://hdmi-switcher-review.toptenreviews.com/monoprice-review.html
 
Dear Folks,

I seem to can't take the confusion of getting a Denon 4520 (standalone for 2.04 lacs) OR Denon 4520 (2.04 lacs) with Emotiva XPA 3 (100$ off sale ends on 15th March i.e. tomorrow ; total cost I'm assuming on the higher side 55k -60k) OR already auditioned Rotel 1572 (1.85 lacs) + 1575 (2.39 lacs) = 4.24 lacs - 10% discount = 3.8 lacs approx. I loved the Rotel prepower combo in Delhi expo but at the same time, I am unsure about the performance of 4520 with them. Also, I could find many users opting for the simplest way out, buying a 4520 and no additional power amps.

I've been told that Rotel prepower is an excellent choice & B&W's best partner but not required for my room size. Rather it should be installed in a dedicated setup which should be also bigger size wise. My problem is that now, getting a system is not a problem. If I am spending so much, I can walk an extra mile for the best prepower option as well. Only point is I don't want to use Denon 3313 or 4520 and underpower my speakers/not use them to their full potential (which I actually want to, maybe not all the time, but yes sometimes). Then, for extra power, adding Emotiva which I have heard are Bright sounding. Denon (warm) + Emotiva (bright) for B&W CM9 (warm) = A good combination ?? This also implies that all in all, I will buy a power amp, be it today, or tomorrow as I have read that these are one of the most power hungry speakers out there. I don't want to get the best speakers for my taste and be settled at let's say 50% of their performance. I want the best performance and please myself everytime I listen to them. Then wouldn't it be wiser to get the best right now by stretching my budget a little more (say 9 lacs) ?

I'm saying this because Punjab is not the hifi heaven. Once a product is bought, I would only be able to get a better price for it by selling it out of Punjab. Here, everybody wants Bose and I can't find many takers for second hand stuff as well. This applies to me as well. I'm very reluctant in buying second hand stuff and have never bought anything used. You must now be wondering what is this in regards to? Actually, let's say I buy the Denon 4520 for 2.04 lacs today and add a Emotiva XPA 3 for 60k. Total cost = 2.64 lacs with no local support for Emotiva. Denon being on the warm side and Emotiva on the bright side sonically. Maybe it will work for me, maybe not. Assuming Emotiva is Not the best partner for CM9's, I would have to go thru the torturous process of finding apt customer for it and sell it at some loss (obviously). Then, again the research would start and it is very time consuming. Not that I am a lazy bum, but this takes a lot of energy plus finding a lot of user reviews & experiences which are seldom alike.

There is Nad, Naim, etc etc but I don't want to get in this mess of researching more and more and ultimately confuse the hell out of me. Some are warm, some are neutral, some are bright, etc. etc. You would now know that I am a little (actually pretty) frustrated on research and missing on my business & meetings (which is not good at all). Day in and day out, I am reading more and more and more articles etc. just to add a whole lot more to my knowledge which I know is not possible in quick short time. I just want the best system out there at my budget. No upgrading pains. I want to use it to the fullest for at-least 10 years or maybe more. After that, I would buy a new system. During these 10 years, I don't want to go mad upgrading amplification products every 3-4 years. After ordering my speakers, I am now stuck with AVR or Prepower combo + the sub. I don't want to wait for my speakers to arrive and then I am sitting there cluelessly waiting to finalize the amplification etc.

I can spend on the Rotels combo as well. The dealer just told me that for Rotels, I would need something called XLR which is 8k a piece and would need two for L and R speaker so total 16k. What is that now? He meant that apart from using a 1600/m speaker wire, this XLR thing would also be used to connect idk what.

Once again, please share your bit of info & experiences with me enabling me to take the final call. I don't want to seek everybody's attention by creating a separate thread and confuse everybody with my double posts (I have already done that). I would highly appreciate your guys' help, like always.

Awaiting all of your final suggestion/s. Thanks in advance FM's and gurus for all the help.

Warm Regards.
 
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The best way to decide will be to ask your dealer for a demo of your speakers with whatever avr you are interested in. Since you already bought such high end speakers from them, they must atleast do this simple task for you. It'd also mean potentially more revenue for them so I don't know why they'd be hesitant here. Then if you find the SQ decent enough, you can decide for yourself if avr alone is good enough or if you should get a pre-pro Or a less powerful avr with an external power amp.

About XLR, it seems to be connector of sorts. Here's more info http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector
 
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nSinghal, thanks for your reply. The major problem is that I cannot go to Delhi again, or anywhere out of station for that matter, in March & April as I am really really occupied with a lot of work here. In May, I would be going for a business tour for 15-20 days so again busy. Now, I have already ordered the speakers and don't want to wait for few months to get the amplification (as it makes no sense). Whatever I have to do, I have to finalise now only. My speakers most probably would arrive within a week, max next weekend, so really want to get up and running with them as soon as they arrive.

According to my dealer, this morning only he tells me that Denon 4520 would be great for my setup although he himself had recommended me Onkyo 818 in the beginning (one month ago), till yesterday on yamaha 3020 or Pioneer (I rejected the idea of Pioneer avr, heard they are too bright, atleast for my setup). This 4520 was also suggested by me when I checked out it's strong built quality. He tells me that even no power amp is necessary for my room but I have read in all user experiences that CM9's perform wonderfully well and much better when used with a power amp.

About the Rotels combo, I heard and loved the combo in av max expo last week.

So the million dollar question is, whether to spend a lot more and go with something that I have already heard and loved,

OR

to buy 4520 as a gamble, then add a power amp (again a gamble, maybe it pairs well, maybe it doesn't, as Rotels are considered B&W's best partners) ?

What would you do if you were in my shoes keeping in mind the limited knowledge that I have of hifi but budget to spend as well as strict NO compromise on sound quality? Thanks!

The best way to decide will be to ask your dealer for a demo of your speakers with whatever avr you are interested in. Since you already bought such high end speakers from them, they must atleast do this simple task for you. It'd also mean potentially more revenue for them so I don't know why they'd be hesitant here. Then if you find the SQ decent enough, you can decide for yourself if avr alone is good enough or if you should get a pre-pro Or a less powerful avr with an external power amp.
 
i still think you are going overboard on this issue. u are getting carried away. a simple 5.1 setup is sufficient for u from whathifhi u can choose any of the 5 star rated setups (last i checked there were more than 36 setups). infact latest whathifi magazine has the CM9 (if u insist) setup with a pioneer LX 86 amp ! they are not recommending a pre + power also. i think u shud pick it up. PS : dont spend so much.. ideally a budget of 3-3.5 lakhs of pure sound is ENOUGH for a room of your size. rest, u can go on and on till u exhaust. :)
 
I understand your problem. I'm no hifi guru either. My knowledge is limited too even compared to yours. Since you can't find another day to go to delhi, try and see if your dealer is willing to send you the avr on a loan for a day or two. Maybe pay him 3-5k for his troubles in case you decide against keeping the avr?

Anyways, from what I've gathered so far, there will certainly be an improvement (though with zero personal experience, I have no idea how much) in SQ if you use separates for processing (be it a dedicated pre-pro or an avr with pre-outs) and amplification (power amp) compared to an integrated solution like an AVR alone. If I was in your place with whatever experience and info you've gained so far and had no option of finding another day for avr audition, I think I'd have gone with a decent enough avr (with pre-outs and atleast 8! hdmi inputs) which doesn't cost a bomb and rotel power amp. You already mentioned you have plans for another dedicated HT room so I wouldn't worry much about getting something which doesn't play nice with the setup. Even if you are unable to sell off whatever item you didn't find good enough, you can use it in your other room. Not the best solution but that's the best you can do in your situation I guess.


What would you do if you were in my shoes keeping in mind the limited knowledge that I have of hifi but budget to spend as well as strict NO compromise on sound quality? Thanks!
 
nSinghal, thanks for your reply. The major problem is that I cannot go to Delhi again, or anywhere out of station for that matter, in March & April as I am really really occupied with a lot of work here. In May, I would be going for a business tour for 15-20 days so again busy. Now, I have already ordered the speakers and don't want to wait for few months to get the amplification (as it makes no sense). Whatever I have to do, I have to finalise now only. My speakers most probably would arrive within a week, max next weekend, so really want to get up and running with them as soon as they arrive.

According to my dealer, this morning only he tells me that Denon 4520 would be great for my setup although he himself had recommended me Onkyo 818 in the beginning (one month ago), till yesterday on yamaha 3020 or Pioneer (I rejected the idea of Pioneer avr, heard they are too bright, atleast for my setup). This 4520 was also suggested by me when I checked out it's strong built quality. He tells me that even no power amp is necessary for my room but I have read in all user experiences that CM9's perform wonderfully well and much better when used with a power amp.

About the Rotels combo, I heard and loved the combo in av max expo last week.

So the million dollar question is, whether to spend a lot more and go with something that I have already heard and loved,

OR

to buy 4520 as a gamble, then add a power amp (again a gamble, maybe it pairs well, maybe it doesn't, as Rotels are considered B&W's best partners) ?

What would you do if you were in my shoes keeping in mind the limited knowledge that I have of hifi but budget to spend as well as strict NO compromise on sound quality? Thanks!

buy the 4520. i dont think u wud need a power amp.
 

This means that spending 75k on wires is a wise idea?

I have been quoted 77k for T7.
Velodyne EQ MAX 12 subs x 2 pcs. = 93k
Also, should I not consider Supercube 6000?

Is Yamaha 3020 (135k - 10% = 121.5k) a good bet when compared to Denon 3313 (100k-15% = 85k) or 4311 (160k - 15% = 136k) ? Or just getting a Denon 4520 (240k - 15% = 204k) and not adding a power amp seems a better idea?


Denon 4311
VS
Denon 4520
VS
Yamaha 3020 + power amp?

I seem to can't take the confusion of getting a Denon 4520...OR already auditioned Rotel 1572 (1.85 lacs) + 1575 (2.39 lacs) = 4.24 lacs - 10% discount = 3.8 lacs approx.

I've been told that Rotel prepower is an excellent choice & B&W's best partner but not required for my room size.

There is Nad, Naim, etc etc

The dealer just told me that for Rotels, I would need something called XLR which is 8k a piece and would need two for L and R speaker so total 16k. What is that now? He meant that apart from using a 1600/m speaker wire, this XLR thing would also be used to connect idk what.

i still think you are going overboard on this issue. .. u can go on and on till u exhaust. :)

buy the 4520. i dont think u wud need a power amp.

LOL. Mr. Eddierocks,

I dont know why you are so confused. Actually I do. You need to step back, chill out and listen to some systems. If it is 10 year (3650 days) investment at least spend some time just checking out a few systems.

a. Subwoofer : Look for asubwoofer with definition. Forget about SPL (you can add subs and achieve that) or extension (you can move the sub around and achieve that).

b. AVR : From the current range of AVRs only the Onkyo 1010, 3010, 5010 Yamaha 1020, 2020, 3020 and Denon 4520 can adjust EQ for 2 subs indepentantly. I dont know about the Pioneers and the 4311 is not HDMI 1.4a compaitble.

So this is your choice. You have ruled out Onkyo (without giving it a listen - I may add) so that leaves Yamaha's 3020 and Denon's 4520. The former is 60K less than the former so you should consider the 3020 mated to something like the NAD C 275BEE or Parasound 2125 which will cost you a bit more than a 4520. However like Rishabh recommends the 4520 should be adequate for 220 sq. ft. even if there is nothing else other than your bed in the room.

As far as the wires go I gave you links of good VFM wire. I wont say if they are better or worse than Audioquest or Kimber because wires need to complement the system and this opinion would be subjective but lets say this that the wires I listed are warmer than the Audoiquest I have heard but warmer than the Kimber I have heard. I like them because like Goldilocks said I found them "just right".

As far as Rotels go, if you in for that kind of money I would look at other separates as well. A Marantz combo or Integra 40.2-70.1 combo would be in the same price range but for a bit (ok I lied it is about 50%) more I would stretch to Cary...oh no we might have confused you further now! :D
Cary Audio Design - Cinema Series
 
I understand your problem. I'm no hifi guru either. My knowledge is limited too even compared to yours. Since you can't find another day to go to delhi, try and see if your dealer is willing to send you the avr on a loan for a day or two. Maybe pay him 3-5k for his troubles in case you decide against keeping the avr?

Anyways, from what I've gathered so far, there will certainly be an improvement (though with zero personal experience, I have no idea how much) in SQ if you use separates for processing (be it a dedicated pre-pro or an avr with pre-outs) and amplification (power amp) compared to an integrated solution like an AVR alone. If I was in your place with whatever experience and info you've gained so far and had no option of finding another day for avr audition, I think I'd have gone with a decent enough avr (with pre-outs and atleast 8! hdmi inputs) which doesn't cost a bomb and rotel power amp. You already mentioned you have plans for another dedicated HT room so I wouldn't worry much about getting something which doesn't play nice with the setup. Even if you are unable to sell off whatever item you didn't find good enough, you can use it in your other room. Not the best solution but that's the best you can do in your situation I guess.

Are you suggesting me that buying a Denon 3313/Onkyo 818 (85k-90k approx) and Rotel Power Amp 1575 (2.16 lacs) = 3.06 lacs approx would be a better deal? I'm comparing this to Rotel 1572+1575 = 3.7-3.8 lacs. In my head, I am thinking that Rotel is the preferred partner for B&W and therefore, if Denon or Onkyo do the sound processing with Rotel 1575 just feeding them extra power, I might not get the sound signature that I have already heard with Rotel prepower combo. Am I saying this right? Please do correct me where I am wrong. Would it not be better to loose on MultiEQ XT32 and a hell lot of other Dolby modes which I would never possibly use as this is a bedroom setup. So no 9.1,9.2,11.1,11.2, etc. Maybe later, if ever there is a need I might a second sub and make a 5.2. . 7.1/7.2 I am thinking that with this much power in a relatively small room like mine would not ever be required. Please suggest.

LOL. Mr. Eddierocks,

I dont know why you are so confused. Actually I do. You need to step back, chill out and listen to some systems. If it is 10 year (3650 days) investment at least spend some time just checking out a few systems.

a. Subwoofer : Look for asubwoofer with definition. Forget about SPL (you can add subs and achieve that) or extension (you can move the sub around and achieve that).

b. AVR : From the current range of AVRs only the Onkyo 1010, 3010, 5010 Yamaha 1020, 2020, 3020 and Denon 4520 can adjust EQ for 2 subs indepentantly. I dont know about the Pioneers and the 4311 is not HDMI 1.4a compaitble.

So this is your choice. You have ruled out Onkyo (without giving it a listen - I may add) so that leaves Yamaha's 3020 and Denon's 4520. The former is 60K less than the former so you should consider the 3020 mated to something like the NAD C 275BEE or Parasound 2125 which will cost you a bit more than a 4520. However like Rishabh recommends the 4520 should be adequate for 220 sq. ft. even if there is nothing else other than your bed in the room.

As far as the wires go I gave you links of good VFM wire. I wont say if they are better or worse than Audioquest or Kimber because wires need to complement the system and this opinion would be subjective but lets say this that the wires I listed are warmer than the Audoiquest I have heard but warmer than the Kimber I have heard. I like them because like Goldilocks said I found them "just right".

As far as Rotels go, if you in for that kind of money I would look at other separates as well. A Marantz combo or Integra 40.2-70.1 combo would be in the same price range but for a bit (ok I lied it is about 50%) more I would stretch to Cary...oh no we might have confused you further now! :D
Cary Audio Design - Cinema Series

@Navin, your post made me laugh and not just smile :lol:

Subs: Should I put Velodyne's EQ MAX 12 x 2 or EQ MAX 10 x 2 in my room? For two subs, I am thinking that there might a little problem with placement but in any case, I am going to redo my tv wall unit so can include this option.

Also, is getting just ONE REL T7 (77k final price) or T9 (90k) a better option? I got the prices from their authorised distributor who also told me that for service, I would have to send the unit to Sound and Vision, Pune only as they don't have any other service centre in India. With Velodyne, maybe it will be a little easier when it comes to service, maybe not. Also, he said clearly that there is no discount on REL but all he could do was include the transportation costs.

I am also considering DefTech SuperCube 6000 x2 units.

So, which one should be a better bet for a room which is at first floor, just wanted to add. I am looking for clean, tight, apt bass. I don't want blow-the-roof-off bass and have vibrations from window pane or doors in my room. That is really annoying and disturbing. I just want every explosion, every gunshot, every beat to perform to it's best capacity. I can't audition them now, so what will you pick? Velodyne? Rel? DefTech? I will buy the sub on your guys' experience and suggestions only. Also do comment on the number of subs I should get- 1 or 2? Everywhere that I have checked online, it says that generally 2 subs are better than getting just one. Is that true practically as well?

About the Rotel 1572, it says "It offers six HDMI inputs and two HDMI outputs with one HDMI output having ARC capability
(Audio Return Channel). The ARC in HDMI 1.4 enables a TV via a single HDMI cable, to send audio data upstream to an A/V
receiver or surround audio controller, increasing user ? exibility and eliminating the need for any separate S/PDIF audio connection."

I would want to use the preamp to be simultaneously connected to my plasma as well as the projector so that I don't have to get up each time and change a few wires while I switch watching on plasma to projector occasionally. Would that be possible with 1572? If not, then I am afraid I might end up buying the 4520 only and add a power amp 1575.

Considering Marantz once again, any idea on the prices of it's AV8801, AV7701, MM8077 and MM 7055? Usually is Marantz a good match for B&W speakers? I personally don't want to buy Marantz but just want to be aware of the prices :). Last night I checked Onkyo 5010. Looks fantastic on paper. 5010 vs 4520? Which is the better bet? Integra not available in India from what I checked on their website. Cary Audio seems very very pricey so can't consider that.;)

Again, any / all help is more than welcome.
 
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buy the 4520. i dont think u wud need a power amp.

Denon's website says: " 150 W per channel power amplifier with symmetrical monolithic construction " . The US site also mentions in the product features "Nine discrete 150-watt channels for dynamic sound". What does discrete 150W channel mean? Does that mean true 150W per channel?

There are a lot of articles and reviews on the internet which generally say that what AVR's say in their spec sheet and what they normally output (power) is not true to some extent. So for my 200W fronts and centre, should I believe that 4520 will output true 150W of power? If that is the case, I am left thinking that I might be satisfied with 4520 only. Sorry, I don't even know how to calculate it and find it very confusing as well.
 
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Would it not be better to loose on MultiEQ XT32

Subs: Should I put Velodyne's EQ MAX 12 x 2 or EQ MAX 10 x 2 in my room?..Also, is getting just ONE REL T7 (77k final price) or T9 (90k) a better option?..I am also considering DefTech SuperCube 6000 x2 units.

I can't audition them now, so what will you pick? Velodyne? Rel? DefTech?

Denon's website says: " 150 W per channel power amplifier with symmetrical monolithic construction " .

Sir please find the time to audition at least some of the products you have listed here. It will clear your head and reduce chance of disappointment.

On reputation alone the REL T7 would be the sub I would pick (out of those 3) but reputation is less than 5% of the solution. You have to listen for the next 35% and then listen again in your room for the last 60%. That is how much a room influences sound.

Thank God you have not added SVS, Sunfire, Hsu, etc to the mix. You would be even more confused - if that was possible. :D

The 4520 is a good AVR. For 220 sq. ft. you should not need another power amp even if the power supply of the AVR cannot supply 150Wx9 wats of power it will be able to supply enough to play the CM9 loud enough. I suspect your ears will give up before the speakers or amplifier do.

When I was shopping for my AVR my first choice was the Yamaha 1020/2020 but neither was available. The Onkyo 1010 is what I eventually ordered but the dealer delivreed a 3010 instead. Go figure. Of course there was a difference in price but it was either take the 3010 or wait another 1-2 months for the 1010....

If you ever need to install 2 subwoofers youwill need to apply seperate EQ for each sub. I believe SUB EQ32 allows you to set EQ and delay for 2 subwoofers.

All good AVRs have discrete amplifiers. So dont read the marketing jargon. Instead find the time to listen to the AVRs themselves.
 
I've finalised Denon 4520 at 197k tax paid today. The dealer has to dispatch it today itself so please help me out with the color- Black or Silver? All my gear is in black color so would it be a wise idea to get the silver and not black? I think silver looks sexy! I'm kind of inclined towards it, but don't know whether it will be a wise idea or not.

Please give your suggestion/s ASAP as I just have an hour to finalise otherwise he will be dispatching the Black color.
 
I've finalised Denon 4520 at 197k tax paid today. The dealer has to dispatch it today itself so please help me out with the color- Black or Silver? All my gear is in black color so would it be a wise idea to get the silver and not black? I think silver looks sexy! I'm kind of inclined towards it, but don't know whether it will be a wise idea or not.

Please give your suggestion/s ASAP as I just have an hour to finalise otherwise he will be dispatching the Black color.

Silver. Why did you get all black gear. I wish Onkyo made the 3010 in silver. It would make a nice match to my Yamaha s2000 amp.

Sure my PS3 etc are all black but silver still is sexier. BTW I think I posted pics of my systems on this forum. Check them out, they will give you an idea of how silver and black look next to each other.
 
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thanks the dealer has already dispatched the unit in black color now and I guess I should be happy with it. I did check out your system as well and must say you've very nice setups.
 
And the front panel of the Denon should match brilliantly with my Opponent BDP 93. Rest everything is in gloss black only. :)
 
Guys, I'm looking at various cables at Kimber Kable and I've no idea which cables would I require to hook up my setup. My friend is coming to india from UK on 22nd march and just wanted to check out the price difference. If the difference is considerable, I would want to order today itself so that it gets delivered on time. But, there are tons of options like 2 pair, 4 pair, 4&8 VS, 4&8 TC, etc. here's the link:

Kimber Kable

Guys please guide me as to which cables (types) would I need to be hook up my speakers and sub to the AVR. And would I need jumper cables, banana plugs, etc. Awaiting your valuable input. Much thanks.
 
Guys, I'm looking at various cables at Kimber Kable ...But, there are tons of options like 2 pair, 4 pair, 4&8 VS, 4&8 TC,

Firstly focus more on the interconnects that speaker cable. The lower the signal level the more improtant the cable

Have your heard Kimber? I would consider 4VS/8VS bi-wire as a good option if you are hung on Kimber.

I prefer cables that are more immediate like VdH, Nordost etc.. but like I said earlier you really do not need these high end branded cables. Good cable can be got for a lot less from brands like Wireworld Cable Technology, Supra, Sommer, Atlas, SonicWall, etc..(see links given earlier) in fact if I was importing I would get Belden from Blue Jeans.
 
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Navin actually I wanted to know the cable names and types that I would require to hook up my setup. Like I just checked a video from velodyne stating that the best wire to connect a subwoofer is RCA CABLE. Then I knew that I would need an RCA cable to connect my AVR and sub with each other. For connecting the speakers, which wires do I look for, the loudspeaker wires or the interconnects as mentioned in different categories on various sites. Or I should buy wire and banana plugs separately, idk which has to be connected to who here. Pardon my ignorance here and please guide me a little here, I shall be more than thankful, yet again.

And for the fronts and even for the centre, do I need a biwired (double) cable (???) ? I mean if biwiring would increase the performance with the AVR doing the power duties then, should I buy a cable that has two cables in one? What is that cable called? I wish to check and see the performance of the system initially and then after biwiring them as well and decide whether to buy a PowerAmp later or not. I'm totally clueless here. :sad::sad:

Firstly focus more on the interconnects that speake cable. The lower the signal level

Have your heard Kimber? I would consider 4VS/8VS bi-wire as a good option if you are hung on Kimber.

I prefer cables that are more immediate like VdH, Nordost etc.. but like I said earlier you really do not need these high end branded cables. Good cable can be got for a lot less from brands like Wireworld Cable Technology, Supra, Sommer, Atlas, SonicWall, etc..(see links given earlier) in fact if I was importing I would get Belden from Blue Jeans.
 
For the sub, as I've heard and liked the deftech supercube 6000 in delhi, I'm relying on it as my shortlisted choice. The options could be a velodyne eq max 10. This also comes from my experience with a velodyne eq max 15. I'm not sure here as they sc6000 and eqmax15 are totally different sizes but whatever it was, I loved the demo of sc6000. Rel t7 has more positive reviews than t9 and it looks the best. Not sure about its performance but kinda unsure as I haven't and couldn't audition the same. What's hifi has all recommendations towards b&w. I'm sure the options I've listed are better than b&w options price wise.

Any ideas on price of sc6000 and eqmax10? For rel, I've been told 77k and 90k best tax paid price including delivery of t7 and t9 respectively.

Also in a 2500 cubic feet room, I'm torn between buying a superior grade single sub or buying 2x10"ers for a better bass experience. Velodyne website states that if I'm going to use two subs, I should multiply the room volume by 1.59 which means that I should look at subs for 3900 cubic feet??

Does buying a sc6000 now and adding a second sub as and when there's a valid need seem like a better idea? Or maybe 2 eqmax10"ers? How far should the subs be placed? I've available space of 9'10" (earlier I wrote 9'6" and it was incorrect) from the total wall length of 13'. The remaining space is consumed by a door leading to my dressing area.
 
Navin actually I wanted to know the cable names and types that I would require to hook up my setup.

Like I just checked a video from velodyne stating that the best wire to connect a subwoofer is RCA CABLE.

For connecting the speakers, which wires do I look for, the loudspeaker wires or the interconnects as mentioned in different categories on various sites.

And for the fronts and even for the centre, do I need a biwired (double) cable (???) ? I mean if biwiring would increase the performance with the AVR doing the power duties then, should I buy a cable that has two cables in one?

What's hifi has all recommendations towards b&w. I'm sure the options I've listed are better than b&w options price wise.

Also in a 2500 cubic feet room, I'm torn between buying a superior grade single sub

Does buying a sc6000 now and adding a second sub as and when there's a valid need seem like a better idea?

Eddie you are very confused. I would hesitate to buy anything if I had the same degree of confusion you have. Since you have already bought (or decided to buy) the B&W CM9 speaker system and Denon AVR, I can only say that you are a BRAVER man than me.;)

All cables that go between components and the AVR will either be HDMI or in a rare case RCA (long story on how these names were arrived at but i dont want to digress, it will only confuse you further).

RCA cables are used when the subwoofer and an internal amp (sometimes called a plate amplifier) and today most subs do. RCA cables are also used when the speakers are active like Genelec. Your B&W speakers are passive. Both are good so dont worry about this part.

For passive speakers you need "loudspeaker cable".

As far as the Sub is concerned I would get a front subwoofer like the REL T7 and later supplement it with a smaller subwoofer (if you feel the need) like the sc6000. Both subwoofers do not need to be identical since your 4520 has the ability to EQ and delay each sub seperately (Audessey SUB EQ XT). Dont worry about room size. I once had 2 18" JBL 2245 subwoofers (10 cu. ft. ported box aka B460) in a room that was little more than 2000cu. ft. (15x17x9). Later these 2 18" were replafcd by 4 Audio Concepts DV12 12" subs....blah blah blah.. in short your AVR will compensate for the room placement and EQ on the subwoofer. What you need to focus on is if the sub is capable of prodcuing good tight bass. Levels and EQ will come later.

Biwire cable is simple 2 loudspeaker cable pairs (4 wires) in one sheath. It helps only if WAF permits only one wire going from the amplifier to the loudspeaker (if the loudspeaker is indeed biwired). I have used Supra Rondo in such a case and in another case Atlas Hyper. Both are good.

I use Bi-wiring to primarily control the quality of the signal going from the amp to the speaker. For example if one wire is more transparent and neutral I might use it for the mid+hf section while if another wire is better for bass then I might use it for the woofer section (most loudspeakers with bi wire terminals have 2 sections : woofers and mid+tweeter/hf). Remember if you bi-wire remove the shorting plug connecting the 2 sections.
 
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