Eddierockks
Active Member
Yes Navin, I agree when you say I'm confused. I would add that I have absolutely no knowledge about it as this is my first setup! Previous one was a HTiB from Onkyo HTS 3400. This is why I have to ask here about the cables, cable types, subs, etc. etc. because in the Onkyo case, everything came supplied in the box. But I guess this is why I am here for, to seek your expert opinions, guidance as well as advice. And I can't really tell you that had you guys been not here, I know (the kind of person that I am when it comes to finding time and researching about a product) I would have bought a Bose V35 theatre and be very pleased with myself.
Anyhow, moving ahead, firstly, the HDMI's, I have a 2-3 Monster HDMI cables which I got from Best Buy in US (no big deal kinds), 1-2 pcs that came along with Samsung products and might as well have a couple of non-branded ones as well. Do I need to change them while setting up the HT now? Should I buy more expensive Audioquest etc cables? Or I should be good with the ones that I already own? I am not sure if these silver or gold plated connector cables actually make a difference. Looking forward to hear from you as well as other FM's.
Regarding the subwoofer, I checked it out on the REL website and here are the specs:
T-7 Specifications
Type: Passive Radiator, front-?ring passive radiator, down-?ring
active woofer
Active Drive Unit: 8in., 200 mm long-throw, steel chassis
Passive Radiator: 10in., 254 mm
Lower Frequency Response: 30 Hz at -6 dB in room
Input Connectors: Hi Level Neutrik Speakon, Lo Level single phono, LFE phono
Input Impedance: High Level: 150k, Low Level: 10k, .1/LFE: 10k ohms
Gain Control Range: 80 dB
Power Output: 200 Watts (RMS)
Phase Switch: Yes, 0 or 180 degrees
Ampli?er Type: Class AB
Protection System
Fully Electronic SET-SAFE: Yes
D.C. Fault: Yes
Output Short: Yes
Mains Input Voltage: 220-240 volts, 110-120 volts for certain markets
Fuses: 2 Amp semi delay 230 volts operation,
4 Amp semi delay 115 volts operation
Dimensions (WHD), Including Feet: 12 x 13.75 x 13.75 in., (305 x 349.2 x 349.2 mm)
Net Weight: 230V: 31 lbs. (14.1 kg) 115V: 34 lbs. (15.4 kg)
DefTech SuperCube 6000 specs:
Subwoofer
Quantity 1
Diameter 9" (22.86cm)
Type High Excursion Active Subwoofer Driver
Bass Radiator
Quantity 2
Diameter 10" (25.40cm)
Type Planar Low Bass Radiator
Control
Display
Alpha Numeric Display Disappearing
Remote Control
IR Control Performance Optimizer Remote (Included with Subwoofer)
Functionality Volume; Mute; Low Pass Filter; Night Mode; Phase; EQ; Display
Digital Signal Processing
56 bit DSP User Selectable
Digital Crossover
Low Pass Filter 40 - 150 Hz, variable in 5 Hz increments
Low Pass Filter Slope 12 dB per Octave
Digital Phase Control
Phase Settings 0, 90, 180, 270 or 360 degrees
Electrical
Wireless Capability
Wireless Capability Wireless Ready
Audio Inputs
LFE input 1 (RCA)
Speaker Level 2 Pair (Speaker Cable)
Stereo Line Level 2 (RCA)
Total Frequency Response
Overall 14 Hz - 200 Hz
Amplifier
Internal Amplifier
Power 1500 watts
Channels 1
Type Class HD
Protection Circuitry
Primary Multiband Dynamic Range Optimizer (M-DRO)
Secondary Thermal Overload Sensor
Power Cycle
US Auto On/Off: Signal Sensitive (defeatable)
International Auto On/Off: Signal Sensitive (defeatable)
My observation might be wrong but here are my findings on the same:
1. REL T7 has power output of 200W RMS Class AB amp whereas DT has power output of 1500W Class HD amp. (What??)
2. Which is better? Class AB or Class HD?
3. REL goes down till 30Hz at -6 db whereas DT specs state that it does 14-200Hz. Now I was able to look at a lot of reviews of DT model where everybody said the same " DT subs have often over exaggerated specs which are normally not true. But DT also goes as low as 25-30 Hz."
4. DT is wireless ready and I am guessing REL is not. This can be very helpful for me as it's my bedroom and I would appreciate if it looks neat with lesser wire clutter. Not sure about the sub's performance of wirelessly but if it's optimum, I don't mind.
5. DT does have 4 EQ preset options. Not sure about REL.
6. DT has a feature called Night Mode which I am liking after reading about it. Again, not sure about REL. Would my DENON 4520 have a setting like that for night mode?
7. DT comes with a remote whereas REL doesn't.
8. REL looks absolutely hot & beautiful when compared to DT. Aesthetically, I love REL but feature wise DT.
9. I am getting a T7 (MRP 77k) at 68k. For the deftech price, I got 73k as MRP. Will discuss about discount tomorrow. If you are aware about it's right price, please let me know.
Now from my petty little observations, you might notice that all the plus points I have written of DT are minor ones but I do like them. Again, I am total newbie who is dissatisfied with his Onkyo HTS 3400 supplied sub simply because it's passive & small & ineffective, logitech z5500 sub which is active i think but not effective, etc. to my room requirements and looking for great, tight, clean, chest thumping bass without any boominess, distortion, etc.
Hoping to hear from you guys soon. Thanks in advance.
Anyhow, moving ahead, firstly, the HDMI's, I have a 2-3 Monster HDMI cables which I got from Best Buy in US (no big deal kinds), 1-2 pcs that came along with Samsung products and might as well have a couple of non-branded ones as well. Do I need to change them while setting up the HT now? Should I buy more expensive Audioquest etc cables? Or I should be good with the ones that I already own? I am not sure if these silver or gold plated connector cables actually make a difference. Looking forward to hear from you as well as other FM's.
Regarding the subwoofer, I checked it out on the REL website and here are the specs:
T-7 Specifications
Type: Passive Radiator, front-?ring passive radiator, down-?ring
active woofer
Active Drive Unit: 8in., 200 mm long-throw, steel chassis
Passive Radiator: 10in., 254 mm
Lower Frequency Response: 30 Hz at -6 dB in room
Input Connectors: Hi Level Neutrik Speakon, Lo Level single phono, LFE phono
Input Impedance: High Level: 150k, Low Level: 10k, .1/LFE: 10k ohms
Gain Control Range: 80 dB
Power Output: 200 Watts (RMS)
Phase Switch: Yes, 0 or 180 degrees
Ampli?er Type: Class AB
Protection System
Fully Electronic SET-SAFE: Yes
D.C. Fault: Yes
Output Short: Yes
Mains Input Voltage: 220-240 volts, 110-120 volts for certain markets
Fuses: 2 Amp semi delay 230 volts operation,
4 Amp semi delay 115 volts operation
Dimensions (WHD), Including Feet: 12 x 13.75 x 13.75 in., (305 x 349.2 x 349.2 mm)
Net Weight: 230V: 31 lbs. (14.1 kg) 115V: 34 lbs. (15.4 kg)
DefTech SuperCube 6000 specs:
Subwoofer
Quantity 1
Diameter 9" (22.86cm)
Type High Excursion Active Subwoofer Driver
Bass Radiator
Quantity 2
Diameter 10" (25.40cm)
Type Planar Low Bass Radiator
Control
Display
Alpha Numeric Display Disappearing
Remote Control
IR Control Performance Optimizer Remote (Included with Subwoofer)
Functionality Volume; Mute; Low Pass Filter; Night Mode; Phase; EQ; Display
Digital Signal Processing
56 bit DSP User Selectable
Digital Crossover
Low Pass Filter 40 - 150 Hz, variable in 5 Hz increments
Low Pass Filter Slope 12 dB per Octave
Digital Phase Control
Phase Settings 0, 90, 180, 270 or 360 degrees
Electrical
Wireless Capability
Wireless Capability Wireless Ready
Audio Inputs
LFE input 1 (RCA)
Speaker Level 2 Pair (Speaker Cable)
Stereo Line Level 2 (RCA)
Total Frequency Response
Overall 14 Hz - 200 Hz
Amplifier
Internal Amplifier
Power 1500 watts
Channels 1
Type Class HD
Protection Circuitry
Primary Multiband Dynamic Range Optimizer (M-DRO)
Secondary Thermal Overload Sensor
Power Cycle
US Auto On/Off: Signal Sensitive (defeatable)
International Auto On/Off: Signal Sensitive (defeatable)
My observation might be wrong but here are my findings on the same:
1. REL T7 has power output of 200W RMS Class AB amp whereas DT has power output of 1500W Class HD amp. (What??)
2. Which is better? Class AB or Class HD?
3. REL goes down till 30Hz at -6 db whereas DT specs state that it does 14-200Hz. Now I was able to look at a lot of reviews of DT model where everybody said the same " DT subs have often over exaggerated specs which are normally not true. But DT also goes as low as 25-30 Hz."
4. DT is wireless ready and I am guessing REL is not. This can be very helpful for me as it's my bedroom and I would appreciate if it looks neat with lesser wire clutter. Not sure about the sub's performance of wirelessly but if it's optimum, I don't mind.
5. DT does have 4 EQ preset options. Not sure about REL.
6. DT has a feature called Night Mode which I am liking after reading about it. Again, not sure about REL. Would my DENON 4520 have a setting like that for night mode?
7. DT comes with a remote whereas REL doesn't.
8. REL looks absolutely hot & beautiful when compared to DT. Aesthetically, I love REL but feature wise DT.
9. I am getting a T7 (MRP 77k) at 68k. For the deftech price, I got 73k as MRP. Will discuss about discount tomorrow. If you are aware about it's right price, please let me know.
Now from my petty little observations, you might notice that all the plus points I have written of DT are minor ones but I do like them. Again, I am total newbie who is dissatisfied with his Onkyo HTS 3400 supplied sub simply because it's passive & small & ineffective, logitech z5500 sub which is active i think but not effective, etc. to my room requirements and looking for great, tight, clean, chest thumping bass without any boominess, distortion, etc.
Hoping to hear from you guys soon. Thanks in advance.
Eddie you are very confused. I would hesitate to buy anything if I had the same degree of confusion you have. Since you have already bought (or decided to buy) the B&W CM9 speaker system and Denon AVR, I can only say that you are a BRAVER man than me.
All cables that go between components and the AVR will either be HDMI or in a rare case RCA (long story on how these names were arrived at but i dont want to digress, it will only confuse you further).
RCA cables are used when the subwoofer and an internal amp (sometimes called a plate amplifier) and today most subs do. RCA cables are also used when the speakers are active like Genelec. Your B&W speakers are passive. Both are good so dont worry about this part.
For passive speakers you need "loudspeaker cable".
As far as the Sub is concerned I would get a front subwoofer like the REL T7 and later supplement it with a smaller subwoofer (if you feel the need) like the sc6000. Both subwoofers do not need to be identical since your 4520 has the ability to EQ and delay each sub seperately (Audessey SUB EQ XT). Dont worry about room size. I once had 2 18" JBL 2245 subwoofers (10 cu. ft. ported box aka B460) in a room that was little more than 2000cu. ft. (15x17x9). Later these 2 18" were replafcd by 4 Audio Concepts DV12 12" subs....blah blah blah.. in short your AVR will compensate for the room placement and EQ on the subwoofer. What you need to focus on is if the sub is capable of prodcuing good tight bass. Levels and EQ will come later.
Biwire cable is simple 2 loudspeaker cable pairs (4 wires) in one sheath. It helps only if WAF permits only one wire going from the amplifier to the loudspeaker (if the loudspeaker is indeed biwired). I have used Supra Rondo in such a case and in another case Atlas Hyper. Both are good.
I use Bi-wiring to primarily control the quality of the signal going from the amp to the speaker. For example if one wire is more transparent and neutral I might use it for the mid+hf section while if another wire is better for bass then I might use it for the woofer section (most loudspeakers with bi wire terminals have 2 sections : woofers and mid+tweeter/hf). Remember if you bi-wire remove the shorting plug connecting the 2 sections.