Hiraga Le Monstre build on the anvil

That problem was since solved, but now am deciding on crossover so I have temporarily suspended listening to the speakers. I have connected them to another set of speakers(87 db Scanspeak MTM) to audition and the sound is excellent. I recommend this build to anyone interested. Since I have multiple amps and speakers my amp of preference at this time is a Welborne Labs EL 34 pp for two channel audio. I will rig this up at a later stage.
 
And the people behind the making.
Pic's of Pune meet at Om's house a couple of months back. All attentively listening to Raghu who is conducting a workshop on how to assemble the JH cabinet.
In attendance are Om, Sachin, Rohit, Dheeraj, Shailesh, Anwesh, Vipin, Swapnil, Sandeep, Joshua, myself and the wonderkid Raghu. (Pardon me if anybody is missed out).

I thank Om, Raghu, Sachin for their brilliant work in making the JH group buy a success by putting all the hard work and taking out their precious time for it.

I also thank Vipin & Anwesh for assembling the Amp for me, without whome I probably would not have completed it.
 
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Bringing this thread back to life, as i dont want to start a new thread on the same topic.

There is a set of kit still left and luckily the set is in my hands right now and working on it to complete its goal.
The set has
2 Nos Amplifier kits (Completely assembled - But needs a make over because the soldering condition is not as per expectations)
2 Nos Cap Multiplier kits (Completely assembled - But needs a make over because the soldering condition is not as per expectations)

I got this kit from Mr. Shailesh and I am helping him out in his built.

Initial work has started with making an enclosure for same. I have selected a massive heat sink (Model No HS 300 x 83)purchased from Akash Enterprise (Pune) with a cut length of 120 mm.

The dimensions of enclosure will be as under.
External : 514 mm (Width [fin end to fin end]) x 300 mm (Depth) x 120 mm (Height)
Internal : 350 mm (Width) x 296 mm (Depth) x 113 mm (Height)

Base plate & top plate is aluminum sheet. Base plate is 4 mm thick & top plate is 2 mm thick. Front & back panels will be of acrylic, as aluminum plates would have gone out of budget due to its machining cost.

Below are some photos with some information on how i built it.

The below 2 photos is of heat sink.
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When I received these heat sinks it did not had a perfect size on both ends, hence i had to machine both the heat sinks to make their sizes equal & a perfect right angle with respect to the base where the bottom & top plates will be mounted. Right angle is necessary or else we will end with uneven sizes on all corners & the enclosure may look tilted. Secondly I have made a grove on both top and bottom of heat sink. Bottom groove is 4 mm deep & top groove is 2 mm deep. this will flush mount the top & bottom plates with heat sink.

Below Photo is of Heat sink with bottom plate just kept on the groove to check the fitment. You can see how neat and clean is the fitting.
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Below Photo is of Top Cover. It was cut on shearing machine. But it still had a variation of 0.5 mm on both ends. I simply used a router to flush out the extra material to make it a perfect right angle on all corners. The router which i am using has variable speed hence it was easy for me to use this router on aluminum plate. (Please do not try this by yourself if you are not skilled enough to use tools, This is very dangerous process and if anything goes wrong you may hurt yourself. Safety glasses is a must while doing this because of the metal chips). This photo itself is self explanatory on how this process was done. I have used the straight mdf sheet as a guide to slide the router on this plate. Bottom plate was also done the same way.

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I lost about 2 mm size of total width to make right angle on all four corners of both plates. This 2 mm size did not matter at this stage because the face plates are yet to be done & I adjusted this 2 mm loss in the width of groove made in heat sink.

Below photo is in process photo while using router. You can see the aluminum chip on plate. This is why safety glasses are necessary. On right it is the excess material removed by router & left the excess material is yet to be removed.
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Below 2 photo is of measured dimensions of both ends after flushing the plates.
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I am continuing this post in next post as it says the limit is for 10000 characters

Sadik
 
Post #45 Continiued
Below photos are of semi assembled enclosure.
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Below Photos are semi assembled enclosure after completing drilling, tapping, filing (removing burrs from the fins) & sanding work on plates and heat sink.
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Removing burrs from fins (after machining) was the most hectic job in this entire built.

When all the aluminum work is finished. I will assemble the enclosure & take the measurements of both face plates (front and back). These plates are of acrylic and will be cutted on laser cutting machine.


This is how the surface looks after sanding (below photo)
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When all the aluminum work is finished. I will assemble the enclosure & take the measurements of both face plates (front and back). These plates are of acrylic and will cut them on laser cutting machine with some engraving work on them.

In the end I must say, making an enclosure is a very precise job and a good skill is must. Below points are necessity for building a nice & perfect enclosure.

1. Perfect Measurement
2. Perfect Marking
3. Perfect Punching of drill holes.
4. Straight Drill Holes. ( I have a small pillar drill machine which make my task easy for straight holes, it has single phase motor so that i can use it in my home)
5. Perfect cutting of sheets with right angle corners.
6. Skills of using taps for making threads. I Broke 2 taps (1st and 2nd) & that too in aluminum. It broke because i did not use lubricant while making threads. I would recommend to use a 2T engine oil or kerosene while using tap in aluminum.

I will keep on updating on the progress of this built.

Sadik
 
Good metalworking skills Sadik. The seam between the heatsink and top cover is nearly invisible. Sanding over the seam will complete the illusion. Excellent work!
Cheers,
~hp
 
Today's Update

Air vent slotting done on top plate. spent 300 bucks for slotting due to single quantity.
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Front face plate (acrylic) ready and temporary assembled to check the fitment. Back plate is yet to be made, i am just waiting for the speaker binding post to make its cutout drawing.
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This is one of my best DIY built enclosure till now. I am just thinking ... how beautiful this enclosure will look after complete anodizing of the enclosure.

Sadik
 
Some More Photos on Progress of this Amplifier.

Due to space limitation I have to fit the Soft Start & Speaker Protection module on Top of Toroidal & EMI/RFI Filter. On Bottom Plate Capacitance Multiplier will be mounted on both sides. Each Channel will have its one CM.

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Sadik
 
Great work Sadik. Keep the pics coming.

Yup... I will keep on posting till the project is complete. Today I have anodized the enclosure. It will be 2 color enclosure, For heat sink the color is golden brown & for plates the color is black. Below are pics of today's progress & i am sorry for some pics are not clear.

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Sadik
 
At last wiring has been completed and the amplifier is singling like an night angel. The Vocals and Highs are too good to be described just by words. I felt there is some lack of bass though.

Below are some Pics of complete wiring.

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There is slight hissing noise which can be heard only by placing your ear on tweeters. At a distance of about 6 inch this noise cannot be heard.

Today I will upload the Complete Photos of this Amplifier.

Sadik
 
Great build Sadik, your skills are worth.
Hiss might be pickup from wires. Just ground the input RCA and check it, if its dead silent or not.

Regarding bass, this design needs low impedance PS. You know, people use heavy batteries. We are using capacitance multiplier. In our builds, many people confirmed that adding extra pairs of same capacitance as PS already has, improved bass too. Otherwise put any 4700uf to 10000uf cap in PS board and move those 33000uf at the output of PS before amplifier boards.
Plus you have directly connected star ground to chassis. We do this through ground isolators.
Any other feedback on PCBs?
 
Last edited:
Great build Sadik, your skills are worth.
Hiss might be pickup from wires. Just ground the input RCA and check it, if its dead silent or not.

Regarding bass, this design needs low impedance PS. You know, people use heavy batteries. We are using capacitance multiplier. In our builds, many people confirmed that adding extra pairs of same capacitance as PS already has, improved bass too. Otherwise put any 4700uf to 10000uf cap in PS board and move those 33000uf at the output of PS before amplifier boards.
Plus you have directly connected star ground to chassis. We do this through ground isolators.
Any other feedback on PCBs?

I will sure give it a try. And thank you very much for this Beautiful design. You all have made an excellent work. Also thank you for your above suggestion.

Sadik
 
For excellent sound that won't break the bank, the 5 Star Award Winning Wharfedale Diamond 12.1 Bookshelf Speakers is the one to consider!
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