HT MC Phono Stage AD797

Hi Joshua,
+/-12 V would be good as many members are using +12V batteries.Did you try OPS for +/-12V or any other supply.There shouldn't be any hum.This could be a grounding issue or RF problem.
EDIT : kindly PM Hypnotoad as he is not very regular on HFV.
Regards,
Sachin
 
Did you try OPS for +/-12V or any other supply.There shouldn't be any hum.This could be a grounding issue or RF problem.

Remember the vague idea I had long time ago about using two AC to DC adaptors to obtain +V - 0 -V? I came across two 12 V/2A adapters, so I rigged up a wiring without cutting any wire and tested the voltages using a multimeter. I did get +12V and -12V so I used it to power the AD 797 phono stage.

The hum is a result of my re-arranging the path of the tonearm cable when I had to dismantle the tonearm to insert the VTA adjuster of the tonearm a couple of days ago (I normally do not use it). Physically moving the tonearm cable produced a drastic change in the level of the hum. I didn't know such a huge amount of hum could be picked up by the tonearm cables. I am sure they are shielded cables. May be I will do something dramatic and wrap up the tonearm cables in aluminium foils:lol:

I am happy with the increased gain that seems to be - prima facie - due to the increased supply voltage. This is a stop gap arrangement as I will complete the OPS soon.
 
The final mass could have been a wee bit higher but I was forced to make it thinner as the longest headshell screws I have at hand would not hold it. The final thickness is nearly 3 mm.

I looked around at the specialist hardware store from where I normally buy screw products but could not get any 2.5mm screw in anything longer than 15 mm. They have 3 mm screws in 25 mm lengths, but this doesn't fit into the hole of the tonearm's headshell. They didn't have die for 2.5 mm threads, otherwise I would have just bought that and DIY my own screws as I have brass rods lying around.

With the shopkeeper's brilliant advice, I got two of these screws braze jointed but the outcome was laughably poor:lol:. I cannot use it. It wasn't really the fault of the technician who did the brazing - he works with much larger items where millimetric accuracy is not required. If I could fashion a means to accurately hold the two screws together then it can be welded accurately.

Now my hope is on finding a lathe shop that is willing to make screws of such small sizes. BTW, I have made a heavier spacer which is nearly 4 mm thick and weighing >11 grams and I WANT to try this out:)
 
It may be crude idea, I stick dual duct tape 10mmX10mm over headshell and stick SS coins over that. Currently I am using 50 paise SS coin for DL-110 cart. Swapnil weighed new SS Rs 1 and 5 coins for me. It weighed 3.73 gms and 5.97 gms respectively. I an not sure about weight of 50paise coin but its somewhere 2-3gms and serves my purpose to add some weight to 4.8gm cart to bring it to range of 6-8gms. No further tweaking for VTA. In my view with adding weight I found sound became thick (bass heavy) and HF tonal thinness is removed. So I stayed to tonearm limit of weight without adding extra auxiliary weight to counter weight.
 
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It may be crude idea, I stick dual duct tape 10mmX10mm over headshell and stick SS coins over that. Currently I am using 50 paise SS coin for DL-110 cart. Swapnil weighed new SS Rs 1 and 5 coins for me. It weighed 3.73 gms and 5.97 gms respectively. I an not sure about weight of 50paise coin but its somewhere 2-3gms and serves my purpose to add some weight to 4.8gm cart to bring it to range of 6-8gms. No further tweaking for VTA. In my view with adding weight I found sound became thick (bass heavy) and HF tonal thinness is removed. So I stayed to tonearm limit of weight without adding extra auxiliary weight to counter weight.

That's an excellent idea, actually. Easy, cheap, and reversible.
 
One of the drawbacks of constantly fiddling with your gear is sometimes you end up breaking some things. This was the case about three days ago when the AD 797 phono pre refused to sing. I had to groan and reluctantly disconnect inputs, outputs, earthing and power supply and check all connections. Luckily, it was just a couple of broken leads in the input and one output connectors. This is the bane of using solid core Ethernet cable as internal inter-connect leads:)

Then a day later I dismantled the tonearm to insert the VTA adjuster (which I normally don't use as there is no on-the-fly adjustment, plus the height of the armboard doesn't warrant raising the arm height). The VTA adjuster was now needed as the newly added headshell spacer had skewed the VTA. On connecting the tonearm back and powering it up, I was greeted with a huge electrical hum even before the needle hits the record.

Re-routing the tonearm cable reduced the hum considerably. So it was clear that the hum was induced into the tonearm cable by surrounding electrical wires and equipment.

To separate as much as possible the power cable of the turntable and the signal carrying tonearm cable, I re-routed the tonearm cable completely to another side of the audio rack. In this new position, the cable drops past the preamp's air vent which happens to be where the preamp's power supply is located. The hum went up many folds!

The tonearm cables are supposed to be shielded so in theory they ought to be fairly immune - if not completely immune - to induction from any electrical sources nearby. I would not have believed it had I not seen it myself.

So now the tonearm cable is propped up by a wooden rod to keep it away from the power supply of the preamp. It looks a bit comical but it works. Now I have to strain my ear, literally touching the woofer to hear a hum.

So for those of you who live with a hum on your analog setup, the above is one possible reason (and solution).
 
With the shopkeeper's brilliant advice, I got two of these screws braze jointed but the outcome was laughably poor:lol:. I cannot use it.

I take back my words:)

I have asked an acquaintance to get me the correct sized screws. But in the meantime, I was itching to try the new heavy spacer, so out came the file set to file off the extra material deposited during the brazing process. After much filing, the new "double length" screws were rendered usable, though a bit wobbly and definitely fugly. The newly wrought heavy spacer is 11+ grams and I guess this is as heavy as it gets. It takes two counterweights to balance the Denon DL 103. On fitting it, I honestly didn't hear a difference from the medium thickness spacer. But I feel that I have inched closer to having the arm resonance closer to, or within the desirable 9 to 12 Hz range.

In retrospect, I am asking myself if this exercise useful for me? My bookshelf speakers probably go down to 45 Hertz, and my floorstanders to 32 Hertz, and here I am worrying about what may happen in the sub-sonic range of the frequency spectrum. May be knowledgeable folks here will help me with a reality check? As mentioned earlier, there are discernable sonic improvements attributable to the increased effective mass of the tonearm. But still....

Anyway, to continue with my experimentations, I tried the heavy spacers on a lighter cartridge (ZYX RS30-02, which weighs 4.2 grams and has 0.26 mV output versus the 8.5 grams of Denon DL 103 with its 0.3 mV output). At 11+ grams, the spacer is way too heavy for this cartridge and I could never achieve a balance - whether using one counterweight or both counterweights. But the ZYX works very well with the medium weight spacer (5.97 gms). And it has been showing the Denon DL 103 who's boss, especially in the higher frequency extension department.

And the AD 797 phono pre has more than sufficient gain for the very low output of the ZYX (0.26 mV). One needs to increase the gain by about 3 to 4 dB compared to Denon DL 103 (0.3 mV) for the same perceived loudness.

Having vanquished and old, old enemy in my analog setup (a.k.a. The Hum) and rediscovering how good is the ZYX RS30-02 cartridge, life's good:)
 
Do you know how a turntable sounds when one doesn't respect the colour coding at the headshell?

I know:lol:

And I was under the impression that life's good;)

I made one uncomfortable discovery last night. Ever since I started using the ZYX cartridge a few days back, I have noticed substantial improvement as well as substantial deterioration. Whenever a musical passage plays only on left channel, or only on right channel, these musical passages sound unusually low, or almost non-existent. Since these are familiar tracks, I know they exist but they have been relegated deeper into the mix or have disappeared! For example, a friend gifted me the Dire Straits' self titled album a couple of weeks back. It sounds very nice for the most part, but I was missing musical cues which I recall hearing even from the cassette tape of this album. I found it strange and initially dismissed it as probably happening because of bad pressing (Polydor India) since the loss was more prominent on one side of the record. But I started missing musical cues on another album which I am highly familiar with (Aja by Steely Dan). I realised that something IS wrong in my setup. Another thing that was not sounding right was the treble - it was HOT. I even re-pointed my speakers so that I listen to them at more off-axis angle than before just to reduce the treble. I even thought of increasing the stuffing inside the speakers (I still have plenty of the stuffing material lying around).

Last night, while sitting down to listen to music, I suddenly realised that I had not even bothered to set the correct impedance loading for the ZYX cartridge when changing from the 103. So I was looking up the data sheet for the impedance required. Luckily for me, it is the same as the Denon DL103 (100 Ohms) so I did not have to make any changes. While I was at it, I decided to cross check whether I had correctly followed the colour coding on the tonearm wires into their respective pins in the cartridge. It wasn't amusing to find that I had really mixed it up due to some wrong assumptions I had. It was all wrong.

After correcting it, I suddenly heard the complete music. Also, the lack of loudness I was complaining about is now cured. The Denon 103 and the ZYX RS30-02 now give almost the same perceived level of loudness at the same volume setting. This is logical as the output voltage from these two cartridges is nearly identical.

There was a pleasant side effect - hum reduced DRASTICALLY. After I had re-routed the tonearm wiring to reduce the hum, there was still some residual hum which was still audible at higher volume when presssing the ear to the woofer. Now, I have to crank up about 10 dB from regular listening volume to hear hum when placing an ear to the woofer. Even if I crank up 6 dB more, there is not much perceivable increase in hum volume. I think in terms of hum, this is as good as it gets for my current setup.

So those of you who have nagging suspicion about the overall quality of your analog sound, please re-check up your cartridge wiring! See the diagram I made.


Red wire goes to right channel signal pin.
Green goes to right channel ground.
White goes to left channel signal pin.
Blue goes to left channel ground pin.


7moc.png



The pin layout on different cartridges vary, so please refer to the datasheet of your cartridge.
 
Minor updates:
1) got 2.5 mm threaded screws of 20 mm length, paid through the nose, but still happy. They're any day (and night) better than the jointed ones I have.

2) I unexpectedly got the Image Hifi's Vinyl Essentials - The Ultimate Pickup Test Record. Using this record, I found out that the resonant frequency of one setup (Origin Live Encounter tonearm with ZYX RS 30-02) is exactly 10 Hertz when using my DIY medium mass spacer weighing 6 gms. The second combo of Origin Live Silver + Denon DL 103 and super heavy DIY 11 gms spacer is 8 Hertz. This is still acceptable as it falls in the 8 to 12 Hertz, but I will lighten this spacer by a couple of grams to get the resonant frequency to 10 Hertz.

I also checked the tracking ability of combo 1. It does well upto 70 micron groove (which is already real loud compared to the starting point of 40 microns which was comfortable volume). It starts being incoherent by the time the grooves are 80 microns. For now these are just numbers. I don't know how they measure up to better combinations. But I must say that these two setups never skip or gets stuck on any record (except one of my favourite records - a Mozart Klavierkonzerte Nos. 21 & 27 with Friedrich Gulda sensitively playing the piano).
 
I have been putting this off. This is the part I normally dread, not because I have nasty things to say about it but because putting together my thoughts coherently is an uphill task. But I have accumulated more than a 100 hours of pleasurable listening experience on the DIY AD 797 phono preamp. So here's my formal listening impression. What follows is a series of long and meandering ramblings of my analog discovery, accompanied by unsolicited/unwarranted rants. But if you're in a hurry, here's the executive summary: go build yourself one while the kits are still available.

First, some - or rather lots of - background. Prior to this phono pre, I was using the Hypnotoad MC Phono Stage (HTMCPS), a wonderful low output MC-only pickup amp designed by Hypnotoad. The HTMCPS is built around the OPA2134 dual opamp. One can substitute that opamp with dual LME49990 opamps using appropriate adapters, or any other dual opamp with same pinout. Building the HTMCPS was a smooth affair, with absolutely no hitch. It played at first try. Mine came with the OPA2134. TO try a different flavour, I requested Sachin to send me the LME49990. After fairly extended comparisons, I preferred the OPA2134 in my setup. To backtrack even further, I tried the LME49990 on the (DIY) CNC MM phono stage too, and liked the OPA2134 more even in this MM phono stage. I know there are lots of folks out there who prefer the LME but please remember your mileage may vary depending on your room, TT-arm combo, cartridge, taste of music, and the rest of the chain. MM cartridges I used for testing were Shure M97xE cartridge and Decca London Super Gold (actually a moving iron cartridge which outputs similar signal levels as an MM cartridge and uses 47kOhms loading). With either cartridge, the treble gets hot for my liking when using the LME49990. Too much bite in the highs. OPA 2134 consistently presented a more balanced tone in my setup.

Building the AD 797 phono preamp ended up being a fairly frustrating affair due to mistakes in using the wrong adapter for the LME 49990. I had wrongly used a dual SOIC 8-pin SMD to 8-pin DIP adapter (same as the one used in HTMCPS or CNC MM PS) but Hypnotoad had designed the new AD 797 phono pre to be used with a single LME49990. Even his audiokarma thread is clear about this. I made my own mistakes but in the process learned that the LME49990 opamp can be used as single or dual, and that they are not interchangeable. Good that I didn't blow up my dual LME49990 as this is a fairly costly opamp. Thanks are due to Hypnotoad and Sachin for helping me troubleshoot this problem. Also, in the process, I ended up learning to solder the very tiny LME49990 SMD chip, and finally had a chance to use a fancy iron a friend gifted me.

After I received the correct opamp adapter from Sachin, it worked on first try! which at least proved that I didn't mess up the rest of the circuitry. And the sound - out of the box - was very promising. It was apparent from the first drop of the needle that this phono stage has indeed very low noise. This brings along a good thing - one starts to hear more details being extracted from the grooves of the records. It also came with a negative - some records which were less than stellar were, unfortunately, rendered less listenable, if not outright unlistenable. But the AD 797 phono pre has been so good that it has literally egged me to improve the rest of my analog chain. It set me off on many tangents but I had come away with benefits and invaluable learnings.

I started out by questioning whether my cartridge-arm combo had the correct resonance frequency and made me experiment with heavy headshell spacers (heavier than the 3.3 gram spacer I had at hand, but did not use). It is great fun making one's own spacer, and any one with some spare brass plates and a set of small files and a table vise can also do it. There is a caveat in here though - putting more weight at the headshell assumes you have enough mass (or enough length of the stub) at the counterweight end to balance things out. In this quest I ended up acquiring a test record that enables one to check the resonant frequency of one's arm-cartridge combo. This is an invaluable tool in any analog guy's toolkit.

I also reluctantly questioned the almost inaudible hum coming from my Thorens TD124/I. It has been there for a long time, and it has almost stopped bothering me because it is low, and does not intrude into my listening, but I am glad that the solution was as simple as re-routing the cables from tonearm to phono stage. A takeaway from this episode was that shielded tonearm cables may not be sufficient to block electrical pickup from nearby devices or power lines, so route your tonearm cable as far away as possible from them.

It also prompted me to try this phono stage on a work-in-progress Lenco L75 rebuild, to hear how different it might sound. The results of this test has been nothing less than epiphanous. My long-dead thread on the L75 rebuild probably deserves to be raised from the dead and updated. Like many others, I have read about how good this idler wheel-driven vintage 'table is with high-mass plinth and decent arm and cartridge, and actually believed it enough to try it for myself. But, the presence of another turntable in good working condition in the house, a much more famous one to boot, has not been exactly strong encouragement to speed up this build. And so it has been lying unloved and unfinished. Now I am advising whoever will hear to just go grab the first Lenco L75 that comes along. And forget about trying to acquire the much costlier exotics.

But I have digressed enough; to get back to the AD 797, I initially struggled to dial in the correct gain setting. In this phono stage, Hypnotoad has cleverly incorporated adjustable Bourns potentiometers for both impedance matching and gain setting. This is excellent thinking, as it is much more convenient than having to insert a resistor of discrete and fixed value (which may not be the exact value needed) into a terminal block each time one changes a cartridge. And more so because the Bourns allows precise adjustment of impedance loading value, down to an ohm, and will hold that value. Currently, the gain and impedance are set for ZYX RS30-02 which has fairly low output voltage of 0.24 mV and 100 Ohms of recommended loading. This setting is very convenient as I can use it interchangeably with a Denon DL 103 cartridge which has identical values (0.3 mV, 100 Ohms). So the impressions that follow are a composite of listening impressions from both cartridges on two turntables.

Tonality:
My personal benchmark for tonality is my CD player as I feel it produces beautiful and near-neutral tone, albeit on the slightly warmer side of neutral. The AD 797 phono stage brings out the tonality of instruments very nicely. It is a pleasure to listen to piano and violin concertos (rant begins: I know of concertos for horns and trumpets but why can't someone compose a full bore concerto the saxaphone? or for the guitar? rant ends - someone please point me to such concertos). Both pianos and violins are difficult to get right. Especially violins - they can sound strident and jarring in the wrong setup. Massed brass section (like those in Sibelius' Symphonic Poem Finlandia) have just the right bite. It is also a pleasure to listen to small ensemble jazz with either piano or saxaphone leads. The CD player is finally equalled, if not humbled. Here I must add that correct VTA also contributes to the correctness of the tonality.

Resolution:
By virtue of its lower noise floor, this phono stage is very resolving. A review by another builder mentioned hearing the dryness of the pea in the police whistle in the Steely Dan track "Aja" here: AD797 Phono Stage Build and Help Desk Thread - Page 2 - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums. I am very familiar with this track and do have an LP of this album, but alas I don't have a chain resolving enough to hear the dryness of the pea (which in any case is very far back in the mix). But suffice it to say the level of details has gone up substantially from the HTMCPS.

Imaging and separation:
Voices are much easier to follow as separate events while being very much recognisable as part of a larger event. But I still can't follow most of what Sir Elton Hercules John mumbles. There has been improvement too in left-right lateral imaging (making it easier to place voices/instruments in the left-right space) and front-back image depth and layering (like backing vocals singing from the "second row").

Dynamics:
Is certainly not wanting. Especially when the music crescendoes and cymbals and tympani come down a'crashin on orchestral tracks. Due to the limitation of the rest of my chain, the low level dynamics are not as discernible at regular listening volumes, but the phono stage is not to blame here. My power amp, and/or perhaps the speakers are not able to bring out more clearly lower level details. But there is a solution here which I usually resort to for more serious listening - crank up the volume by 3-4 dBs and lower level details become more discernible (caveat: louder passages will also be that much louder, and may be beyond what is comfortable for you).


Extension:
The intro to the Olivia Newton John track "Queen of the Publication" (from the album Soul Kiss) has a typewriter chattering and clacking away. The carriage return (or what is suposed to be the sound of the carriage return) is a very sweet sounding, metallic tinkle. It definitely sparkles with the ZYX RS30-02 cartridge. The Denon DL103 doesn't produce as sweet a tone and is grainy by comparison. The AD 797 phono stage is transparent enough to highlight the limitations of the legendary workhorse from the house of Denon. The air around the slide guitar on Dire Straits' "You and Your Friend" (from the album On Every Street) is light, open and airy. It also pushes back the vocals on this track a couple of rows behind, making him sound almost like Ozzy Osbourne singing from a deep well. The title track on the first album mentioned is real bass-heavy, with a hefty weight to it. One can feel the air being pushed when listening to this song on the right set of speakers. With my bookshelves, I can hear a "glimpse" of that weight, enough to know it is there for the picking with the right pair of speakers.

If I had not already bought the board for the Pass Pearl II phono preamp, this would have been my last DIY effort at phono stage (I have a feeling I could suffer from foot in the mouth syndrome here:lol:). Now I will have to find out which is the better one, especially since the Pearl II supports MMs, and I need a good MM phono stage for the Decca moving iron.

On the power supply: initially I ran the AD 797 phono stage with two 9V batteries (+9V, 0, -9V). My old (factory made)phono stage runs off a wall wart supply. So an idea I had been toying with for a long time, but didn't have the courage to take the plunge, was to try two 12 Volt AC-DC adapters. I borrowed a couple of 12V, 2 Amp adapters and the results was nothing less than satisfactory. There is absolutely no loss of dynamics, which I was afraid might happen; nor any grit in the highs that might show up if the power was unclean. Also, 3 volts (12V v/s 9V) made an unexpected difference - volume was higher, meaning gain was better. Which is a good thing as we are dealing here with LOMCs. If any one wants to try this instead of building a much costlier dedicated PS, look for reputed 12V AC-DC adapter (some shopkeepers still use the quaint but charming term "battery eliminator") of 2 Amps rating. If 2 Amps is difficult to come by, you can try 1.5 Amp. Also, since the opamps work across a range of supply voltages, even 15V should work, BUT I have not tried this and cannot say for sure. Of course all this does not mean that I will not complete the build of the OPS, which is half finished.
 
Excellent writeup Joshua!

Now I am advising whoever will hear to just go grab the first Lenco L75 that comes along. And forget about trying to acquire the much costlier exotics.
Will do so, I am somehow finding myself obsessed with the Lenco's. Though I have been looking for L78, but could think about going for a L75 now.

If I had not already bought the board for the Pass Pearl II phono preamp, this would have been my last DIY effort at phono stage (I have a feeling I could suffer from foot in the mouth syndrome here:lol:). Now I will have to find out which is the better one, especially since the Pearl II supports MMs, and I need a good MM phono stage for the Decca moving iron.

I have recently built it, and find it very assertive, controlled, bold with a bit of warmth apart from being super silent and neutral. I really love it.
Regards, sann
 
Nice review Joshua,one of the best I read.Sadly I don't have any MC to build this Phonostage,but each review is positive.I have bought all components for Pearl2 for you,but some caps are still remaining.
I myself looking to buy a Lanco or equivalent idler drive TT to try with DIY Schroeder tonearm,but prices are too much in India.

Regards,
Sachin
 
Thanks for a fine review Joshua.

As to where I have been and what's been happening, I redesigned the layout of the AD797 stage, incorporating Kanwars suggestions.

This stage is already very quiet and can only benefit from a good layout and Kanwar is the "man" in that dept.

No right angle traces, isolating resistors in the supply rails, and a "completely" uncut ground plane on top (this took a lot of head scratching), the caps on the power pins are correctly connected, differential caps across the supply rails.

I designed a PSU to go with it, LM317T/LM337T with chokes etc, it runs of a 1amp AC wallwart, no concerns about electrocution here. :D

I have been testing it with the version that Joshua reviewed for weeks, and there seems no difference in sound or noise whatsoever. No hum or noise no matter what wires are where or if I even sit it on top of the AD797.

Now shock horror, I put this PSU unit on the same PCB as the AD797 stage, so it's all in one, people just have to populate it at the same time, get a wallwart and away you go.

For those who don't want to use the PSU there is a footprint for a terminal block at the supply rail inputs so you can power it from batteries if you prefer, or even run power from the PSU for an SSP or similar low current draw device.

Sachin is getting the PCB's made and they should be ready soon.

I hope it works. :D
 
I'm game for this, as long as sachu or Joshua are willing to build one for me!

Kanwar + hypnotoad experimentation = I'm game for it!
 
For phono stages purposes I am experimenting with shunt regulator in line to Salas Shunt Regulator. I see many people suggest that way for clean sound.
 
Quick update on the sound: this phono stage surprises me often with its imaging, especially the specificity of voices and instruments in the left-right space. On a negative side, I will reiterate what I had mentioned earlier - I hear ticks and pops more clearly along with heightened musical details:sad: You gain some while you lose some.

Next on the agenda (when I can peel myself away from listening to the music) is to roll capacitors. Right now I am on the Russian PETPs. Next up will be the ones that Sachin sent as default (sorry, I can't even recall the brand, but I think it is Wima?). This will be followed by a local brand I found at Lamington Road - Filcon 22 uF/250V. Hopefully this will turn out to be another serendipitous discovery like the Russian PETP:)
 
Quick update on the sound: this phono stage surprises me often with its imaging, especially the specificity of voices and instruments in the left-right space. On a negative side, I will reiterate what I had mentioned earlier - I hear ticks and pops more clearly along with heightened musical details:sad: You gain some while you lose some.

Next on the agenda (when I can peel myself away from listening to the music) is to roll capacitors. Right now I am on the Russian PETPs. Next up will be the ones that Sachin sent as default (sorry, I can't even recall the brand, but I think it is Wima?). This will be followed by a local brand I found at Lamington Road - Filcon 22 uF/250V. Hopefully this will turn out to be another serendipitous discovery like the Russian PETP:)

If you are having trouble with ticks and pops, you can roll off the highs a little before they go into the RIAA stage with this low pass filter, which helps in this area, it also gives the illusion of more "body" to the sound.

I have been experimenting with this lately. And it doesn't appear to reduce the detail, soundstage etc YMMV.

Get a pair of 0.022uf film caps (the value is important), I used Wimas the same as I used in the RIAA section. But any quality 0.022uf polypropylene's will work, the lower the voltage the smaller they are, I soldered mine underneath the PCB as outlined below.

Place them between the op amp side of R9 and ground, I used the ground connection of C13, the other one goes between the op amp side of R10 and ground, I used the ground connection of C15.

Here's a pic showing what they are connected to, it's pretty easy to solder them under the board.

AD797CapFit_zpsf060de11.jpg
 
Hi,

Not to hijack this thread, has anyone tried AD797 Op-Amp in a CNC MM Phonostage or SSP Pre-Amp? :)

Curious to know.

N.Murali
 
A beautiful, well-constructed speaker with class-leading soundstage, imaging and bass that is fast, deep, and precise.
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