Jelco SA370H Tonearm

[reubensm]

Recently, a very close friend of mine from Trivandrum got a good Lenco L-75 from Australia . He also managed to get a Audio Technica AT 1007 tone arm for the Lenco. I fixed the Tone arm for him . Now he has requested me to build a plinth similar to the one i have made and fix the Audio Technica Tonearm retaining the stock arm. I am planning to fix it on the plinth on the opposite side of the original tonearm or at the top portion. since the plinth will have a dust cover fixed to the plinth, a practical solution needs to be worked out. Retaining the original arm takes care of the cosmetic part as covering the removed tone arm base is not easy. But if the original arm is removed, it is easier to fix the new tone arm. Some good idea will come to my head soon I hope. The Audio Technica arm is 10" and aligning it if fixed in stock arm point as done now is not possible.

Waiting for the SA370H to arrive from the United States. On another note Mr. Kuruvila, can you PM me on what would be the aprox cost of a L75 plinth build, need to budget for the same. Also how many layers of ply are used? One more question, if I want to use 2 arms by maintaining the L75 stock arm, what do you suggest (do I remove the L75 stock arm from the main chassis and mount it on a custom arm board with lift mechanism, made of aluminium)?

 

[jls001]

.. aprox cost of a L75 plinth build, need to budget for the same. Also how many layers of ply are used? One more question, if I want to use 2 arms by maintaining the L75 stock arm, what do you suggest (do I remove the L75 stock arm from the main chassis and mount it on a custom arm board with lift mechanism, made of aluminium)?

18 mm plywood x 7 or 8 layers. Buy 2' x 2' marine grade plywood, they cost about Rs 250 each. 250 x 8 = 2000. Top layer must be 10 mm. Add cost of cutting, gluing, finishing. I think within 5K should be able to complete the plinth. Or you can sandwich some layers of MDF to make it at least pseudo-CLD. Some people disagree, but from what I have read, the very fact that using differing materials to build a composite structure makes it CLD.

Size: you need to take a call on the width (left to right dimension, just to be sure what I mean) and depth (front to back) before buying material and getting it cut. If space is not a constraint, larger is always better for the L75 as suggested by Jean Nantais. His Reference model weighs 100 pounds.

Regarding multiple arms, I have thought of using two arms and actually made an arm hole for an SME 3012. But I have come around to concluding that it is way too fiddly. So I have decided to stick to one arm. In your case, you play 78s. So having the stock arm to play 78s may be a good idea (though by most accounts the stock arm isn't much good). The Jelco MUST be paired with the finest cartridge you can buy. A very good starting point is the Denon DL 103. Since you are a DIY-er, build the Hypnotoad LOMC phonostage to go with it, and you will be audio heaven (or close enough to have tantalising glimpses of it :lol. It isn't even that costly.

 

[reubensm]

Joshua, can you send me the url to the LOMC phonostage build?

 

[jls001]

This one is Hypnotoad's Ver 01, based on dual opamps like OPA2134. It can work with LME49990 too, with appropriate adapters.

This is the second version from Hypnotoad, based on the low-noise opamp AD797.

And this is the Pass Pearl II build. Costly and complicated, but worth the build. It is a two-cabinet affair.

Addendum: boards and parts were from Sachin. Sachin is highly recommended as he ensures the best parts are used. The OPS Power Supply designed by Omishra is highly recommended for any of these builds. Board and parts for OPS were also from Sachin. R-Core transformer you have to source independently.

 

[omishra]

This one is Hypnotoad's Ver 01, based on dual opamps like OPA2134. It can work with LME49990 too, with appropriate adapters.

This is the second version from Hypnotoad, based on the low-noise opamp AD797.

And this is the Pass Pearl II build. Costly and complicated, but worth the build. It is a two-cabinet affair.

Btw Joshua, I built new cabinet for pearl 2 and pass B1. Took 33V dual power from b1 ps and got rid of second ps box of pearl2.

 

[reubensm]

Don't want to start a new thread on this but here are a few queries on the Lenco L75 stock arm:

1) the cart sits deep inside the headshell, stylus placement over the record needs one to bend down and look under the headshell?
2) the whole tonearm assemble is very shaky, I think I may have worn v-blocks. Can someone guide me on this? The tonearm wand can be moved up and down inside the pivot (not lifting the headshell but the whole wand itself, parallel to the chassis)
3) the tonearm pivot base has some tiny screws to hold it in place, not easy to open and close these?
4) there are no calibration markings on the counter weight or the anti skate suspended weight. How are these to be calibrated?
5) is this tone arm really ok for ceramic use?

Any thoughts, please share as I am planning to start some work on restoring it.

 

[Record Player]

Reuben - Some plinth designs which can help for your build. Many designs here for Lencos.

Gallery | Turntables by Jean Nantais

 

[jls001]

Directions on how to replace V block: here. Lots of helpful photos to guide you. If you really want to use the stock arm, why not get the v-block machined from brass? If machining from a single block of brass is challenging (especially the two arms of the V), it can be made from two "lego" like pieces that can be assembled together. The third piece that is the side can be a third "lego" piece, or can be avoided altogether like this el simplo v-block.

An indexed FAQ on the 75 tonearm is here.

I recall that putting it all back was quite a pain, especially the nut that is screwed on from counterweight end at the base near the surface of the top plate.

BTW, the stock is suited for low compliance carts.

 

[sann]

Agree with Joshua, In fact I am finding it to be a excellent match for DL-103, the combination produces very bold full bodied warm and very enjoyable music. As of now I am using it without the counter weight rider and liking it better.

 

[jls001]

4) there are no calibration markings on the counter weight or the anti skate suspended weight. How are these to be calibrated?

This el cheapo digital scale is your new best friend

When using it, make sure that the amp is not selected to your TT as source (assuming it is ON), place the stylus gently on the flat part of the scale, and measure away. Adjust counterweight as required. Adjustments to be made with the arm resting on the armrest, and locked firmly, NOT when with stylus tip resting on scale.

And it is OK to have a reading of 1.82 grams instead of your target 1.85 grams:lol: I mean, it is very easy to a get carried away when using a scale that is accurate to 0.01 grams.

 

[kuruvilajacob]

Waiting for the SA370H to arrive from the United States. On another note Mr. Kuruvila, can you PM me on what would be the aprox cost of a L75 plinth build, need to budget for the same. Also how many layers of ply are used? One more question, if I want to use 2 arms by maintaining the L75 stock arm, what do you suggest (do I remove the L75 stock arm from the main chassis and mount it on a custom arm board with lift mechanism, made of aluminium)?

Sorry for the delay. Somehow I missed reading your post. I use 5 layers of 18 mm marine plywood of the best quality. If you can source birch plywood from abroad, nothing like it. Regarding two arms including stock arm, I suggest that you should not disturb the stock arm's position. You could mount a separate arm either on the top left hand corner on the plinth or on the opposite side of stock arm. In the latter case, you should have enough space to freely handle either arm without awkwardness . I prefer to use only my ortofon arm, so I have placed the TT to play with the otofon arm facing me

 

[reubensm]

Sorry for the delay. Somehow I missed reading your post. I use 5 layers of 18 mm marine plywood of the best quality. If you can source birch plywood from abroad, nothing like it. Regarding two arms including stock arm, I suggest that you should not disturb the stock arm's position. You could mount a separate arm either on the top left hand corner on the plinth or on the opposite side of stock arm. In the latter case, you should have enough space to freely handle either arm without awkwardness . I prefer to use only my ortofon arm, so I have placed the TT to play with the otofon arm facing me

thanks Mr Kuruvila, with this position, the challenge would be to see the exact landing point of the stylus on the stock Lenco tonearm. While giving it some thought after referring to Joshua's notes, I believe it is better to go with the Jelco as the main tonearm (replacing the stock tonearm) and maybe have the stock tonearm, re-mounted on an aluminium base (with the lift mechanism), relocated to the back. Somehow, I am not quite comfy with the opposite side of the stock tonearm OEM position as this is almost over the idler area. Your guidance on this would be of extreme importance. The stock arm that I have is very shaky had I have to do some work on it before it can be readied to take a ceramic cart on board. I really want to retain it somewhere on the rig because it looks quite unique and classy

 

[reubensm]

Jelco tonearm arrived yesterday, was surprised to find it in absolutely brand new condition, never used. Came with all the mounts, headshell, tonearm wiring, headshell leads, mounting screws and even dampening oil. It was packaged so well that the package could have possibly survived a bomb blast. India Customs were not that kind though, but overall, I was very excited to see it. Very happy with the investment. Its S-shaped and looks much better than my Technics SL3200 stock s-shaped tonearm. Build quality is simply superb. Now I realize why these tonearms are so heavily preferred over the stock tonearms of usual turntables. The champagne gold colour adds to the beauty. Pictures over the weekend.

 

[Record Player]

Jelco tonearm arrived yesterday, was surprised to find it in absolutely brand new condition, never used. Came with all the mounts, headshell, tonearm wiring, headshell leads, mounting screws and even dampening oil. It was packaged so well that the package could have possibly survived a bomb blast. India Customs were not that kind though, but overall, I was very excited to see it. Very happy with the investment. Its S-shaped and looks much better than my Technics SL3200 stock s-shaped tonearm. Build quality is simply superb. Now I realize why these tonearms are so heavily preferred over the stock tonearms of usual turntables. The champagne gold colour adds to the beauty. Pictures over the weekend.

Brilliant! Cant wait to see the pictures .

 

[reubensm]

radical design, work of art, same tonearm that I have:

http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=15241.0

 

[reubensm]

here are the pics of my champagne gold, shining brand new Jelco SA370H tonearm, taken straight out of the box:

top view with headshell, counter weight, tonearm mounts and dampening oil. Small angle tools for opening the mount screws were also included:

a different angle

 

[peace_sells]

here are the pics of my champagne gold, shining brand new Jelco SA370H tonearm, taken straight out of the box:

Wow! Looks beautiful! Are you assembling this all by yourself? It seems quite a delicate task. Especially since the tonearm looks so nice I'd be very scared to touch it :lol:

 

[reubensm]

Wow! Looks beautiful! Are you assembling this all by yourself? It seems quite a delicate task. Especially since the tonearm looks so nice I'd be very scared to touch it :lol:

Yes, its brand new and spot-less. I am currently handling it using a piece of soft cotton cloth. want to get it on there without any nicks and dings. The cosmetic aspect of this project is key as this is to be showcased at a corporate event.

 

[reubensm]

Scored another brand new Jelco SA370H which will be handed over to Mr.Kuruvila for my Garrard 401 Project. So both the 401 and the L75 will sing with Jelco SA370Hs. I love this tonearm for 2 reasons (1) its S-Shaped and (2) its brand new. Somehow when it comes to tonearms, I prefer new over old (not sure why, its just the feeling of getting something that would work straight out of the box).

These Jelco arms which I have accquired are branded for British L.A.D. turntables (London Acoustical Developments). These turntables used the Jelco SA370H and were pitched as professional turntables. The owner claims to have accquired a few of these tonearms as spareparts and is now letting them go. Here are a few brochures of L.A.D. turntables.

Here's a picture of the tonearm in action on a L.A.D. turntable:

Here's a tonearm used with a Lenco 88

 

[kuruvilajacob]

Reuben,
It is always better to use a new tone arm. I have seen several tone arms damaged in transit and also several with faulty alignment due to years of use. The arm certainly will be a good choice for both your players. You will be in a position to compare the TTs using the same phono stage and cartridge. Could even swap the tone arms. They will be like identical twins if you can have same cartridge on both..