Pass B1

now i dont know what kind of hardware you guys are gonna use for the input selector toggle
but if its just a switch - then keeping the centre volume knob where it is and taking centre dist between the knob and the I/p selector at -50-60mm should look fine

dia 32/2 = 15
15+15 fingers)+10 ( breather)+ 10 ( considering dia of switch is 20 )+ 4 = 54 mm

you guys need to check this proportion though

ok i have selected oms BACK plate design -- back1 - 1 pdf
the only change i propose is the follwoing


in the back1-1 pdf ( the one with 4 inputs and 1 out)
im assuming the first two holes are for the OUTPUT
these are fine

what i propose is shift the IP holes by 25mm more
Basicallly this means that the fisrt set of ip holes be kept 50mm away from the OP and not 25
the rest of the IP holes are at 25mm gap spacing
in effect the last set of IP holes are at x=200mm

the reason for doing the above is that the IP section will look differnt from the OP section
right now it just looks like a set of 10 holes equidistant to one another

Above changes have been assumed by me and scale dwg is ready
Once this is okayed i will give to make jig
I await everyones OK
 
in the back1-1 pdf ( the one with 4 inputs and 1 out)
im assuming the first two holes are for the OUTPUT
these are fine

what i propose is shift the IP holes by 25mm more
Basicallly this means that the fisrt set of ip holes be kept 50mm away from the OP and not 25
the rest of the IP holes are at 25mm gap spacing

the reason for doing the above is that the IP section will look differnt from the OP section
right now it just looks like a set of 10 holes equidistant to one another

+1 agree :thumbsup:,
reiterating - looking at back1-1 drawing just make sure that moving from Left to right side the output holes are 75mm away from left edge and after that the input holes are at 25mm spacing. Then this will look opposite to my construction.
Same thing do you mean Magma? If yes then go ahead.

BTW, magma, why no option-2 also side by side?
for few people as it will be helpful for people who don't have CNC phono and 4-1 selector. So 2 IN and 1 OUT stereo is okay for them.
 
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+1 agree :thumbsup:,
reiterating - looking at back1-1 drawing just make sure that moving from Left to right side the output holes are 75mm away from left edge and after that the input holes are at 25mm spacing. Then this will look opposite to my construction.
Same thing do you mean Magma? If yes then go ahead.

BTW, magma, why no option-2 also side by side?
for few people as it will be helpful for people who don't have CNC phono and 4-1 selector. So 2 IN and 1 OUT stereo is okay for them.

what im saying is
FOR BACKPLATE
op holes are 75mm from edge of left hand (one below the other) just as your dwg
then the 1st set of IP holes are 50mm away from the OP holes - after that each set is 25mm away

i.e
i.e from LHS
OP holes centre at 75mm
1set IP set at 125mm
2nd IP set at 150mm
3rd set of IPs - at175mm
4th set - 200mm

FOR FRONTPLAATE
volume hole 50mm from RHS
IP selector at 104mm from RHS

OM confirm this!^^^

no option-2
those who want just two inputs
for them the last 2 sets of IP holes will be omitted

i.e from LHS
OP holes centre at 75mm
1set IP set at 125mm
2nd IP set at 150mm
 
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what im saying is
FOR BACKPLATE
op holes are 75mm from edge of left hand (one below the other) just as your dwg
then the 1st set of IP holes are 50mm away from the OP holes - after that each set is 25mm away

i.e
i.e from LHS
OP holes centre at 75mm
1set IP set at 125mm
2nd IP set at 150mm
3rd set of IPs - at175mm
4th set - 200mm

FOR FRONTPLAATE
volume hole 50mm from RHS
IP selector at 104mm from RHS

OM confirm this!^^^

:thumbsup: Sir jee Please go ahead from my side. I like that.
 
what im saying is
FOR BACKPLATE
op holes are 75mm from edge of left hand (one below the other) just as your dwg
then the 1st set of IP holes are 50mm away from the OP holes - after that each set is 25mm away

i.e
i.e from LHS
OP holes centre at 75mm
1set IP set at 125mm
2nd IP set at 150mm
3rd set of IPs - at175mm
4th set - 200mm

FOR FRONTPLAATE
volume hole 50mm from RHS
IP selector at 104mm from RHS

OM confirm this!^^^

no option-2
those who want just two inputs
for them the last 2 sets of IP holes will be omitted

i.e from LHS
OP holes centre at 75mm
1set IP set at 125mm
2nd IP set at 150mm

That would be fine for me. I would want the extra inputs in any case,

Thanks....:)
 
i will now try and complete the rough prototype this week
then we will take the headcount according to how many like the proto

3 categories
1. Full PASS B1 cab - 4 i/ps
2. Pass B1 cab - 2i/ps - THIS version will not have IP selector board/PCB holes or CNC phono stage PCB holes
3. Bare Bones- this is for users who want the cab for future projects - this will NOT have any base plate holes, will NOT have any rear plate holes ecxcept the Fused IEC with switch, FRONT panel will be completely clean - no holes whatsoever
the aluminium seperater may be supplied but it will not be fitted for obvious reasons

if there is full consensus about something required in category 3 (i.e some holes) - i will consider it - but i will need a full consensus from all and a pdf dwg like om has posted

final execution and order delivery will take some time- im a little distracted right now - time for my toddlers school admissions - so im running around a bit

someone who wants the cab fast should not order with me
 
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Omishra,
You are a Pro. Fantastic DIY painting as well:cheers:

I made some progress today. Populated the LDR and the Power Supply Boards. CNC phonostage, I had already completed a while ago. Only the B1 board is pending, will complete it tomorrow most probably. Will do the wiring once the cabinet is ready.

81d7b5fb.jpg
 
Omishra,
You are a Pro. Fantastic DIY painting as well:cheers:

I made some progress today. Populated the LDR and the Power Supply Boards. CNC phonostage, I had already completed a while ago. Only the B1 board is pending, will complete it tomorrow most probably. Will do the wiring once the cabinet is ready.

81d7b5fb.jpg

Great Santhosh,

Regards,
Sachin
 
Today I finished faceplate. I am not so good in metal work still with my limited resources.


It is relatively easy to find laser engravers nowadays, Why don't you get some fancy lettering to decorate the empty looking face plate?

--G0bble
 
Omishra,
You are a Pro. Fantastic DIY painting as well:cheers:

I made some progress today. Populated the LDR and the Power Supply Boards. CNC phonostage, I had already completed a while ago. Only the B1 board is pending, will complete it tomorrow most probably. Will do the wiring once the cabinet is ready.

Thanks Santhosh!
Waiting for everybody's impression about this complete build of individuals.

It is relatively easy to find laser engravers nowadays, Why don't you get some fancy lettering to decorate the empty looking face plate?

--G0bble
Yes G0bble! I am looking for one. I will definitely come back after this faceplate. Now next mission is rewiring of my DIY power amp which is haunted by little hum which is detected by my ears in darkness of night.
 
Assembled the B1 and Pass BOZ today. Need some help to setup the ldr attenuator.
The procedure that omishra posted about finding R1, R2, R diff is not working the way it is should.
I wanna know that is the procedure to be followed when the the circuit is connected and powered or out of the circuit.
 
No magma, its not anodized. I used chrome spray color which is suitable car alloy wheels and finished with clear lacquer coat.

hmm
i guessed it was a paint

to get that finish in anodise is a long difficult process involving sand blasting

rgds
Ali
 
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