DIY: Pass F5 turbo v2 initiated

After considerable difficulty put the JFETS in (8mA to replace 10mA)
not sure whether I'll able to change a faulty trimpot
kroyin, Yes that will be difficult for heavy double thick PCB. These are double sided through hole PCBs. Even holes are having inner layer plated of copper pipe.

There is a trick to remove old parts. First make all leads straight inline to hole (if required melt the solder on existing pad). Apply more soldering material over all pads of trimpot and keep it melted while pulling the part from downside. Do this quickly within 5-6 sec. After that clean hole individually.
If the part is faulty then cut the leads carefully and individually start removing remaining wire from holes.
 
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Update of MOSFETs and 3020 diodes-

All MOSFETs and 150 diodes started from US on 19th Oct. Expected to land here in next week or week after that.
Remaining diode will follow the path in next week.
 
Om I can't get the holes to show up...there is always some leftover solder in them

For that your need desoldering pump (solder sucker). Hold the PCB vertically, hole tunnel horizontal. Then you have to heat that hole from one end and simultaneously suck the molten metal from other end using desoldering pump. You may need to add more soldering material into that hole so that it gets sucked properly.
 
Om I can't get the holes to show up...there is always some leftover solder in them

Solder sucker works wonderful on caps especially on bigger components.Add some fresh solder before desoldering them,use the bigger dia iron tip available for this purpose.

Regards,
Sachin
 
He he I have sucker,hot air blower(used for removing psu caps), wicks. 25/35 Watt iron with chisel & pencil tip

In spite of everything the only thing that worked here was a safety pin :-)
 
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After extensive searching in the market, I've found an Aluminium Trading company selling heat sinks yesterday. I have found two types of heat sinks with them.

1. 50mm wide with 3mm long fins running along the length.
2. 125mm wide with 5mm long fins running along the length on both sides with a 20mm bare are in the middle of the fins.

Spoke to Omishra and figured both are not suitable for the F5 build. He suggested a minimum of 5" wide heat sink with 1.5" to 2" long fins vertically (along the width rather than along the length) and the base plate thickness of 10mm.

When I apprised the vendor he asked for quantity. I remembered the length of F5 PCB which was 302mm. So for 2 channels the requirement would be 604mm. He was not interested to supply such a small quantity. At least one length is what he was looking for.

On my persistence, he spoke to someone and promised a 6' long heat sink which is 140mm wide with 20mm long fins running along the length with the base plate thickness of 5mm. This thing would cost Rs. 5750/-

Since even that one was not as per the specs suggested by Omishra, I had asked him to give me a day or two to take advise and get back.

Could someone advise me if the above heat sink would suffice?
 
After extensive searching in the market, I've found an Aluminium Trading company selling heat sinks yesterday. I have found two types of heat sinks with them.

1. 50mm wide with 3mm long fins running along the length.
2. 125mm wide with 5mm long fins running along the length on both sides with a 20mm bare are in the middle of the fins.

Spoke to Omishra and figured both are not suitable for the F5 build. He suggested a minimum of 5" wide heat sink with 1.5" to 2" long fins vertically (along the width rather than along the length) and the base plate thickness of 10mm.

When I apprised the vendor he asked for quantity. I remembered the length of F5 PCB which was 302mm. So for 2 channels the requirement would be 604mm. He was not interested to supply such a small quantity. At least one length is what he was looking for.

On my persistence, he spoke to someone and promised a 6' long heat sink which is 140mm wide with 20mm long fins running along the length with the base plate thickness of 5mm. This thing would cost Rs. 5750/-

Since even that one was not as per the specs suggested by Omishra, I had asked him to give me a day or two to take advise and get back.

Could someone advise me if the above heat sink would suffice?

Hi Capt.
This would not be enough for F5 Turbo may suit to normal F5.The price is also on higher side.This type of heat sink should cost between Rs 3500-4000 max
I asked similar question to a person who has built an F5 using similar looking heat sinks of Omishra.You can find his reply here http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=4766.30

Regards,
Sachin
 
140mm wide with 20mm long fins running along the length with the base plate thickness of 5mm.

Could someone advise me if the above heat sink would suffice?

This would not be enough for F5 Turbo

Thank you for the advise Sachin. I'll have to now scout around for a bigger heat sink I guess.

a 6' long heat sink.

This thing would cost Rs. 5750/-

The price is also on higher side.This type of heat sink should cost between Rs 3500-4000 max

Sachin, the price is for 6 foot long heat sink. In any case, I'll not be buying it since it is not sufficient.
 
Thank you for the advise Sachin. I'll have to now scout around for a bigger heat sink I guess.







Sachin, the price is for 6 foot long heat sink. In any case, I'll not be buying it since it is not sufficient.

Try getting it from Aluminium heatsink, Heat sink in bangalore, Heatsink stockist, Heatsink dealer, Heatsink supplier, Aluminium LED Heatsinks, Aluminium Reflector Sheets, Aluminium Caul board Sheet 2.5mm, Aluminium Plywood sheets, Aluminium Alloy Rods,plates in 2014, 7

I picked up N9 model of Aluminium heatsink, Heat sink in bangalore, Heatsink stockist, Heatsink dealer, Heatsink supplier, Aluminium LED Heatsinks, Aluminium Reflector Sheets, Aluminium Caul board Sheet 2.5mm, Aluminium Plywood sheets, Aluminium Alloy Rods,plates in 2014, 7
from local Hindalco dealer. I had got a quote of 4300 from perfect metal.in people for 4 X 150mm pieces and I also paid the same to the local dealer.



Please see http://www.hifivision.com/diy/28245-diy-pass-f5-turbo-v2-initiated-28.html for pictures of my heatsinks.

Thanks
pandu
 
Heatsink Pandu showed is big. I think that is definitely sufficient. I am not sure you can have 2 separate pieces. They wont share the heat between them. I guess it should still be good enough if 2 MOSFETs share each piece.

Is anybody planning on getting heatsink anodized? Its dissipation capability is supposed to be better. Any sources for the same?

Thanks
 
Heatsink Pandu showed is big. I think that is definitely sufficient. I am not sure you can have 2 separate pieces. They wont share the heat between them. I guess it should still be good enough if 2 MOSFETs share each piece.

Is anybody planning on getting heatsink anodized? Its dissipation capability is supposed to be better. Any sources for the same?

Thanks

Intend to have two mosfets on each of the 4 pieces. If I can place the pcb symmetrical to the two heat sinks then I should be good in dissipating evenly.
Will connect one side of the two heat sinks using two Aluminium anglers one each on the top side and the bottom side.


You can use MS anglers too instead of aluminium anglers. Two primary reasons I choose this heat sink for .

I can keep the cabinet horizontal with vertical fins. The fins are 82 mm including the base plate of 14 mm thick. Yes it is on the heavier side but we do get sufficient headroom in terms of heat dissipation.

From what I heard, Anodizing should help improve heat dissipation. Try doing black anodizing. It is not expensive. I checked It should not cost more than Rs 500 to 700

Thanks
Pandu
 
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Received the F5T boards and the PS boards. The boards are very high quality and well designed as well.

My only comment is that the holes for components on the F5T boards are pretty small and they could have been the next higher size. I am particularly concerned about the 1 ohm, 3W resistor holes and so are the preset pot holes. Next revision could do with slightly larger holes.

Thanks to FMs omishra and Sachin for such a terrific job in helping the DIY community. I do not know who in this day and age would do these things selflessly just for the sake of passion. Hats off to you guys.

On another note, I am planning to use the 2 PS filter boards in serial ganged mode making the two PS boards look like one 1 PS board in CRCRC mode. That will give me 8 caps per power supply leg as per original Pass design on Turbo.

Cheers.
 
Thanks Anilva, did you find any issue with those preset and resistor holes. I measured, they fit correctly though removing and replacing will be PITA. It will be unforeseen situation though. Normal case we all should be successful in building this with some patience during bais process. I and Sachin will building some easy step document for first time builders. (Me too :p)

Another update - MOSFETs are in Pune local PO. Waiting for delivery today, seems holiday or Monday. Diodes are following this.
 
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Thanks for kind words Anil.I have tried fitting 1Ohm 3W resister in F5 board.There was absolutely no problem,no adjustment required.

dsc05390x.jpg


Replacing small components on this type boards could be very hard as they are very thick and pleated through hole(PTH)

Regards,
Sachin
 
The holes are pretty tight and needs to be pushed in. Slightly larger holes can give us benefit of using other resistors like Furuyama metal plate ones. My experience with CViller and Tea-Bag boards is what my reference is.

It is not a show stopper but god forbid, if a part needs to be replaced....
 
The holes are pretty tight and needs to be pushed in. Slightly larger holes can give us benefit of using other resistors like Furuyama metal plate ones. My experience with CViller and Tea-Bag boards is what my reference is.

It is not a show stopper but god forbid, if a part needs to be replaced....

Hmm.. So you mean next time I choose bigger holes for same part. I will see if library symbols suggest that or not. Because it needs changing existing symbols.
 
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