Garrard 301 takes off
- Thread starter stevieboy
- Start date
sachu888
Well-Known Member
Phonolube has got good reviews on net,also available in ebay.
GC Electronics Phonolube Lubricant 10-1223 2 oz. | eBay
Regards,
Sachin
Stevie, seeing this picture a thought just came to my mind. No need to remove rivets. What if we just soak the hardened gunk bush part in dissolving solvent for few hours clean it, repeat it one more time, dry it and lubricate it with fresh oil ?
Unless ofcourse if you want to make the whole thing neat, clean & tidy spankingly new like.
If Yes...
are you by any chance a 'Virgo', because 'virgo' people are characteristically as such.Regards
Hi,
I've used standard machine grease, available from any hardware or motor shop. The Garrard manual recommends grease for the lever joints, and oil for the switches. Once done, it lasts for years, given the extent of use.
The original Kokomo kit (which I've used on my 401) did have a ceramic ball bearing, which supposedly leaves an indentation. I've not checked mine since installation, and I don't really care, as it works fine. The version 2 of the kit, is different, no ball bearing, but I'm not sure what shape it's taken.
regards,
Before servicing my Dual 1229, I went over countless threads
on cleaning and lubricants. Most of the recos for oil are
sewing machine oil or 10W40 (very common car engine oil, available
at all all auto parts shops). I used 10W40 and it worked fine for me.
Grease - over on AK, the gurus have suggested that even old and
dry grease can be "rejuvenated" by moistening it with oil (10W40 etc),
hence no need to apply new grease.
If you must use grease, you can try white lithium grease (bearing grease,
available with auto parts stores, made by all major petro companies).
The only issue is that it comes in 0.5Kg tins, so I got a small capful
of it free from a neighbourhood mechanic. I made sure I took it from
a untouched part of his partly-used tin.
0.5Kg white lithium grease costs approx Rs 100.
Make sure the grease is plastic-safe, if you want to use it on any such parts.
I only used the lithium grease at the metal-metal linkages on the Dual,
where the service manual recommended Molykote grease.
Real Molykote grease is also available, but only in very large size tins.
For the motor bearing, it is made of "sintered bronze" which is a
porous material and absorbs oil. Pour in a capful of 10W40,
wait a little, and clean it out with a ear-bud. Personally, I prefer
a clean cotton cloth (like a nice, soft, old hanky) for cleaning, as ear
buds leave some cotton fiber residue.
First few cleanings, the cloth will have some dirt on it. Pour oil and
repeat the cleaning a few times till the cloth has only clear oil with
no dirt/residue. My motor is dead quiet and very smooth now.
The sintered bronze will absorb a lot of oil, as will the felt pad (if present), so for the final oiling, pour a capful and let it soak a
bit, before cleaning the excess.
All the above are from my reading and personal experience with
repairing a Dual, but I think the info is fairly generic. But do
verify if it applies to the Garrard, before using the info.
on cleaning and lubricants. Most of the recos for oil are
sewing machine oil or 10W40 (very common car engine oil, available
at all all auto parts shops). I used 10W40 and it worked fine for me.
Grease - over on AK, the gurus have suggested that even old and
dry grease can be "rejuvenated" by moistening it with oil (10W40 etc),
hence no need to apply new grease.
If you must use grease, you can try white lithium grease (bearing grease,
available with auto parts stores, made by all major petro companies).
The only issue is that it comes in 0.5Kg tins, so I got a small capful
of it free from a neighbourhood mechanic. I made sure I took it from
a untouched part of his partly-used tin.
0.5Kg white lithium grease costs approx Rs 100.
Make sure the grease is plastic-safe, if you want to use it on any such parts.
I only used the lithium grease at the metal-metal linkages on the Dual,
where the service manual recommended Molykote grease.
Real Molykote grease is also available, but only in very large size tins.
For the motor bearing, it is made of "sintered bronze" which is a
porous material and absorbs oil. Pour in a capful of 10W40,
wait a little, and clean it out with a ear-bud. Personally, I prefer
a clean cotton cloth (like a nice, soft, old hanky) for cleaning, as ear
buds leave some cotton fiber residue.
First few cleanings, the cloth will have some dirt on it. Pour oil and
repeat the cleaning a few times till the cloth has only clear oil with
no dirt/residue. My motor is dead quiet and very smooth now.
The sintered bronze will absorb a lot of oil, as will the felt pad (if present), so for the final oiling, pour a capful and let it soak a
bit, before cleaning the excess.
All the above are from my reading and personal experience with
repairing a Dual, but I think the info is fairly generic. But do
verify if it applies to the Garrard, before using the info.
Very nice guide. He has covered all the lubrication stuff in detail,
so you can ignore all that I wrote in my prev post
sachu888
Well-Known Member
Hi Quad,
I read threads on AK where NoTransistors and bohhey(Bill) suggesting similar procedure for servicing Dual.
Regards,
Sachin
I read threads on AK where NoTransistors and bohhey(Bill) suggesting similar procedure for servicing Dual.
Regards,
Sachin
Stevie, seeing this picture a thought just came to my mind. No need to remove rivets. What if we just soak the hardened gunk bush part in dissolving solvent for few hours clean it, repeat it one more time, dry it and lubricate it with fresh oil ?
Unless ofcourse if you want to make the whole thing neat, clean & tidy spankingly new like.
If Yes...
Regards
Hiten,
Yes one can do the soak and clean. That's one way. In fact one guy actually put oil and set it on his gas burner on a warmish plate type thingie to warm things up. Motor
I'd be deciding my course of action when I actually open it up. My experience with the SME rewire has shown me that pics and internet advice is one thing, reality might turn a simple thing into a challenge or the established challenges might actually turn out easier.
No am Aquarius. And I don't even have the technical know how to multi quote people in one post
For me, once I'm curious about something I HAVE to figure it out, that's the driving factor rather than any performance a deep clean would result in
Hi Quad,
Have read of lithium grease too, so will get whatever I can lay my hands on, lithium or regular. I think most of your post is valid to the Garrard too. After all, both are mechanical. Only difference is the oil is not 40 but mostly 30 if I remember right.
Regards
Re-assembly part of the page is still under construction! Do tread carefully
Hehe. Yes, slow does it with plenty of reference pictures clicked before dismantling
Though the manual is a superb reference with exploded diagrams of every single part, nut, bolt, washer.Regards
Eh now buying grease on the net is where I draw the line Sachin
Of course if it went into the bearing a little more thought would be required...regards
hee hee trust me I am honest see below what I found about aquarians
matches exactly with garrard restoration process
Regards
Hehe not bad Hiten... Most aquarians are supposed to be dreamers...
Had a bad scare last night. Popped the platter to check the spring. The table just wouldn't turn on! Finally traced the source back to a faulty mains plug. Currently (pun unintended) the table is live. The previous guy had fixed the earth wire to the bottom of the spindle and the mains wire is just a two pin one. Another reason I am not playing it and its firmly covered till I fix the mains lead.
With the platter off, the idler spins at 45 and at 78 but not so fast, and does not move at all at 33 due to no contact. Tried stretching the bottom idler spring to the second hole as recommended by Hiten. No difference. The top retractor spring was more stretched and as per surgeon general Hiten's advice I cut off a loop and fixed it and it seemed to improve a bit. Would have to cut off more for the wheel to touch but then my quick fix came undone as the spring promptly did what it's supposed to do and sprang back and out of sight. If it wants to spend its Christmas hiding in the speed change cage it damn well can. Anyway its a good indication as to the cause of the trouble...
Will take pics and post as I go along, once I start last week of December. The spark suppressor well... sparks! It needs a good clean, right now is black as hell.
Had a bad scare last night. Popped the platter to check the spring. The table just wouldn't turn on! Finally traced the source back to a faulty mains plug. Currently (pun unintended) the table is live. The previous guy had fixed the earth wire to the bottom of the spindle and the mains wire is just a two pin one. Another reason I am not playing it and its firmly covered till I fix the mains lead.
With the platter off, the idler spins at 45 and at 78 but not so fast, and does not move at all at 33 due to no contact. Tried stretching the bottom idler spring to the second hole as recommended by Hiten. No difference. The top retractor spring was more stretched and as per surgeon general Hiten's advice I cut off a loop and fixed it and it seemed to improve a bit. Would have to cut off more for the wheel to touch but then my quick fix came undone as the spring promptly did what it's supposed to do and sprang back and out of sight. If it wants to spend its Christmas hiding in the speed change cage it damn well can. Anyway its a good indication as to the cause of the trouble...
Will take pics and post as I go along, once I start last week of December. The spark suppressor well... sparks! It needs a good clean, right now is black as hell.
Yes bro, first fix the mains cable issue.
now this is where the trouble starts stevie. If you cut too much spring it will almost stretch and straighten. loose some of its retractability and will exert too much pressure to be played on 78rpm pulley which is I think large dia. Be extra cautious. I would suggest not to hurry. Enjoy the christmas. A little early but merry christmas.
But after christmas remember we have responsibility to make the world a better place.
Regards
Am not worried about getting the spring tension right Hiten. I plan on getting a full set of springs. This was just to troubleshoot the problem. The restore job will progress one aspect at a time, but will hopefully end up as pristine as I can make it. I hope to learn riveting and how to test coil continuity when I finish
Isn't it possible to substitute the spring with an elastic, as being done by some Lenco guys. Cut up an old undie may be and extract the elastic band and bunch them up to form a strong band? :lol::lol::lol::lol: That would take you straight to the zenith of DIY-dom.
Hi,
Steven,the switch should not spark.
Looks like you have a faulty capacitor.It needs to be replaced.If you continue to use it like this the switch will fail.
Garrard 301, 401 & 4HF on/off Switch Spark Suppressor | eBay
You can wire a X2 type (275VAC) .05uF and 220 Ohm resistor in series across the switch but it will not look original.
Regards
Rajiv
Steven,the switch should not spark.
Looks like you have a faulty capacitor.It needs to be replaced.If you continue to use it like this the switch will fail.
Garrard 301, 401 & 4HF on/off Switch Spark Suppressor | eBay
You can wire a X2 type (275VAC) .05uF and 220 Ohm resistor in series across the switch but it will not look original.
Regards
Rajiv
different SQ of different undies elastics brands ??? :lol:
Seriously I wonder how much difference the pressure of different spring tension makes to sound quality? As we can see stevie's TT take too much time to reach accurate speed. I think it must be making a difference.
Regards
Last edited:
Rajiv,
Hehe it isn't original right now. There's no switch suppressor unit at all! Currently, just a capacitor soldered to the switch doing duty and the cap lies on top of the plate. Will be getting it from perfect sound, the link you've given, along with the other things I may need. Though I did read that cleaning the switch assembly pins should help. More inclined to get a new unit cos the cover's gone too. To be specific, the switch assembly pins, the left one sparks. Will take a pic tonight and post.
Incidentally saw your post on another forum asking help for my earlier problem. Really nice of you to take the time out to do that. Really appreciate it
Regards
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